(Topic ID: 72256)

Data East - Lethal Weapon 3 (LW3) Club

By mima

10 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 2,360 posts
  • 265 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 hours ago by steph06
  • Topic is favorited by 124 Pinsiders

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“I am planing to make my self a set of repro plastics and are considering a making a very very limited run of sets. Are there any interest out there for this?”

  • I would run and grab me a set since there are no NOS made for this pin 69 votes
    47%
  • I would want to get a few single plastics, some are missing on my pin 54 votes
    37%
  • My pin has some beaten up plastics but I prefeer original plastics 5 votes
    3%
  • Nah, waste of moey. the pin plays well without / with warped and beaten up -plastics. 18 votes
    12%

(146 votes)

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There are 2,360 posts in this topic. You are on page 37 of 48.
#1801 1 year ago

so looking at those pics, Can't really tell where that yellow wire is soldered up to anything. possibly an additional ground? if that is the case, you probably could just use the black and red and once it has power, it will probably be on. so maybe the game once mode is hit, the light would get power.

#1802 1 year ago
Quoted from Bax1:

so looking at those pics, Can't really tell where that yellow wire is soldered up to anything. possibly an additional ground? if that is the case, you probably could just use the black and red and once it has power, it will probably be on. so maybe the game once mode is hit, the light would get power.

I'd refer to manufacture paperwork.

Very possible unit has constant power and the yellow wire is a trigger to fire the unit on.

#1803 1 year ago

Throwed the whole stuff out and bought 2 relays emulating a power break and on again.

These are working fine on a seperate 12V adapter. But once back in the pinball and at multiball nothing happens...

Just top be sure grey = +12V and Brown/blue is gnd ? Can't really find it in the manual...
IMG_9943 (resized).jpgIMG_9943 (resized).jpgblinker (resized).JPGblinker (resized).JPGrelay (resized).pngrelay (resized).png

IMG_9956 (resized).jpgIMG_9956 (resized).jpg
#1804 1 year ago

Yep, grey is always on and brown/blue leads to the CPU board where ground is switched on and off.

First check that you don’t have a wiring problem:
Connect your DMM to CN12 pin 7 and PSCN4 pins 6 and then 7. With your topper wired up you should have continuity.

If that is good your problem is on the board side.

#1805 1 year ago
Quoted from keeganhayes:

Yep, grey is always on and brown/blue leads to the CPU board where ground is switched on and off.
First check that you don’t have a wiring problem:
Connect your DMM to CN12 pin 7 and PSCN4 pins 6 and then 7. With your topper wired up you should have continuity.
If that is good your problem is on the board side.

In diode test mode it reads 0.925 and 0.952, is that ok ?

Is the grey cable 12V or 18V ? And if 18V would it be possible to get 12V (always on) somewhere as I understood it is the brown/blue cable who's going on & off and thus triggering the beacon.

Beacon not connected and multimode activated, measured : 15.8V
Fuse remains ok

Connected beacon : It worked for a sec and 1A fuse blew !

What does it mean ?

Added 23 months ago:

Problem solved, replaced 1A SB fuse by the 3A Fast blow fuse which was in the cigarette light adapter plug.

#1806 1 year ago

Next problem :

Once and a while during a game the machine generates a slam tilt error for no reason....

Checked line 7 and row 1 switches in the switch matrix.

None of them activates Slam tilt when I touch them manually or push a ball in/over it

Green Brown cable is ok in CN8 pin 1
same for
White violet in CN10 pin 2

???

#1807 1 year ago

If you are going to Allentown I'm going to run off a few upper mirrors, $25 cash at the show.

Gary

228e6cfdfe3de4387c0e1da4634a31c1214d672a (resized).jpg228e6cfdfe3de4387c0e1da4634a31c1214d672a (resized).jpg
#1808 1 year ago

Hey all - just listed some art blades that I did not end up using..

Parts - For Sale
Used, good condition - “Hi all - I bought a set of black Lethal Weapon 3 art blades but in the end put mirror blades in my machine so it time to sell these. Just cleaning out my excess parts…but if y...”
2022-04-28
Seattle, WA
55 (OBO)
Archived after: 5 days
Viewed: 90 times
Status: Sold (amount private)
Contributed to Pinside

#1809 1 year ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

If you are going to Allentown I'm going to run off a few upper mirrors, $25 cash at the show.
Gary
[quoted image]

By the way I have one of these from Gary and it is better then new….

Love it…

#1810 1 year ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

If you are going to Allentown I'm going to run off a few upper mirrors, $25 cash at the show.
Gary
[quoted image]

what kind of material are you using Gary? I need to look at mine and see how they are.

#1811 1 year ago

so where do we stand with the aftermarket beacon? I want to do something like this to my game since I don't have one.

#1812 1 year ago
Quoted from Bax1:

what kind of material are you using Gary? I need to look at mine and see how they are.

Standard mirrored plastic as factory and I only make the upper piece.

Normal price is $40 shipped, as I'm going to Allentown that chops a little over $10 off since no shipping.

#1813 1 year ago

Could somebody post the exact dimensions of the side art blades ?
Looking to cut some out of mirror stickers...

#1814 1 year ago
Quoted from Bax1:

so where do we stand with the aftermarket beacon? I want to do something like this to my game since I don't have one.

I got mine working finally (see posts higher). 12V DC bicolor LED light.
Just had to replace the 1A SB by a 3A as it kept blowing. Now runing fine for over a week...

#1815 1 year ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

Next problem :
Once and a while during a game the machine generates a slam tilt error for no reason....
Checked line 7 and row 1 switches in the switch matrix.
None of them activates Slam tilt when I touch them manually or push a ball in/over it
Green Brown cable is ok in CN8 pin 1
same for
White violet in CN10 pin 2
???

It seems the post in Pinwiki Data East 4.8.5 was spot on my problem !!
Playfield hanger screw that was touching connector of a through.

Tightened it up and it seems fine now after 15 games testing...

#1816 1 year ago

Anyone able to take a pic of their gun assembly? Just got my back from powder coating and feel like it’s not going together quite right. Trigger feels loose. (Replaced the spring with NOS).

#1817 1 year ago

Does anyone need playfield parts or playfield for a LW3? I have a playfield that should clean up really nice. It has the wood rails on it and the metal guides. Most of the rest is stripped off but have many of the pieces including the building in the back.

#1818 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Does anyone need playfield parts or playfield for a LW3? I have a playfield that should clean up really nice. It has the wood rails on it and the metal guides. Most of the rest is stripped off but have many of the pieces including the building in the back.

I could use a right sling plastic and right outlane plastic that goes over the clear ball guides below the slings.

#1819 1 year ago

I could use the construction worker with an uzi plastic , I bought the one from the pinside shop in Australia but the colors are way off.
I wouldnt mind the PF as a hanger but I think shipping cost might kill that idea.

#1820 1 year ago
Quoted from keeganhayes:

Anyone able to take a pic of their gun assembly? Just got my back from powder coating and feel like it’s not going together quite right. Trigger feels loose. (Replaced the spring with NOS).

Hope this helps.

The trigger can be a bit wobbly.. mine is before and after chrome job with a new spring.

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#1821 1 year ago
Quoted from PoMC:

I could use a right sling plastic and right outlane plastic that goes over the clear ball guides below the slings.

Can you post a picture of the parts you need? I think I may have them. Will check this afternoon.

#1822 1 year ago
Quoted from Malenko:

I could use the construction worker with an uzi plastic , I bought the one from the pinside shop in Australia but the colors are way off.
I wouldnt mind the PF as a hanger but I think shipping cost might kill that idea.

Can you post a picture of the part you need? I think I may have them. Will check this afternoon.

#1823 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Can you post a picture of the parts you need? I think I may have them. Will check this afternoon.

These two plastics on the right sling and right out lane drain guide. Looks like there is a Baywatch plastic on it now.

Also could use the ball launcher coil bracket as I just found mine is broke when I removed the apron to clean underneath.

8C626429-CDD0-4529-A284-8311F74FA8F6 (resized).jpeg8C626429-CDD0-4529-A284-8311F74FA8F6 (resized).jpegB0D2291F-18BA-4F2F-A180-259F9F2D365D (resized).jpegB0D2291F-18BA-4F2F-A180-259F9F2D365D (resized).jpeg
#1824 1 year ago
Quoted from PoMC:

These two plastics on the right sling and right out lane drain guide. Looks like there is a Baywatch plastic on it now.
Also could use the ball launcher coil bracket as I just found mine is broke when I removed the apron to clean underneath.
[quoted image][quoted image]

That's the correct plastic on the right outlane guide. Not from Baywatch.

#1825 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

That's the correct plastic on the right outlane guide. Not from Baywatch.

Really? Ok cool. Looked totally out of place to me.

#1826 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Can you post a picture of the part you need? I think I may have them. Will check this afternoon.

Screenshot 2022-05-01 073306 (resized).pngScreenshot 2022-05-01 073306 (resized).png
Pinside had the ad at the bottom of the thread lol. I hope this suffices, if not I can go take an actual pic of mine. It is on the left side near the building.

Quoted from PoMC:

Also could use the ball launcher coil bracket as I just found mine is broke when I removed the apron to clean underneath.

I feel your pain, I broke mine when I first got my LW3 and just welded it back together

#1827 1 year ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Really? Ok cool. Looked totally out of place to me.

Here's a few pics.

And once you've seen it, you can't unsee it... is the totally out of place 10' long metal Johnson coming from Danny Glover just below that right flipper!

IMG_7052 (resized).JPGIMG_7052 (resized).JPGLethal-Weapon-Pinball-Flyer (resized).jpgLethal-Weapon-Pinball-Flyer (resized).jpglw3plas01 (resized).jpglw3plas01 (resized).jpg
#1828 1 year ago
Quoted from Malenko:

[quoted image]
I feel your pain, I broke mine when I first got my LW3 and just welded it back together

Funny thing is, the shooter works just fine.

#1829 1 year ago

I also just realized how warped my helicopter plastic is too, so might need that too.

#1830 1 year ago
Quoted from Malenko:

I also just realized how warped my helicopter plastic is too, so might need that too.

Easy fix with heat gun and a hardcover book.

For most of my plastic work, I use a pair of 12 x 15 heavy glass sheets scavenged from a broken mirror at work.

#1831 1 year ago

These are all the extra plastics I have. One of the blue lens is chipped and there is a chip in the clear guide. The rest including the building look to be in good shape. I don't have a Lethal Weapon so I don't need to hang onto them. Just would like to get something fair for the lot.

Robert

20220501_121047 (resized).jpg20220501_121047 (resized).jpg
#1832 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

These are all the extra plastics I have. One of the blue lens is chipped and there is a chip in the clear guide. The rest including the building look to be in good shape. I don't have a Lethal Weapon so I don't need to hang onto them. Just would like to get something fair for the lot.
[quoted image]

The building and pop bumper caps are sold. Anyone want to offer on the rest?

#1833 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

The building and pop bumper caps are sold. Anyone want to offer on the rest?

I was half tempted to buy the building.

Mine had melted from a locked on flasher and had some cracks but I was able to get it sorted out with a heat gun so it looked presentable.
09499a1f7e7da2b7f96296028aa2763dd457b610 (resized).jpg09499a1f7e7da2b7f96296028aa2763dd457b610 (resized).jpgacaf84dd4e91c1438ee6c74d195bd966397b6d0c (resized).jpgacaf84dd4e91c1438ee6c74d195bd966397b6d0c (resized).jpg

#1834 1 year ago

Hi all,

If possible I would appreciate an under playfield pic of the centre and right side drop bank targets coil to make sure i have the right orientation. For some reason my 3 banks won't reset 90% of the time. Feels like somthing is amiss. I have completely rebuilt both. Very little slack and zero wear on the pivot. Can't figure it out.

#1835 1 year ago
Quoted from CryptKeeperAUS:

Hi all,
If possible I would appreciate an under playfield pic of the centre and right side drop bank targets coil to make sure i have the right orientation. For some reason my 3 banks won't reset 90% of the time. Feels like somthing is amiss. I have completely rebuilt both. Very little slack and zero wear on the pivot. Can't figure it out.

Do any of these help?

IMG_1613 (resized).JPGIMG_1613 (resized).JPGIMG_1690 (resized).JPGIMG_1690 (resized).JPGIMG_1928 (resized).JPGIMG_1928 (resized).JPGIMG_1929 (resized).JPGIMG_1929 (resized).JPGIMG_1930 (resized).JPGIMG_1930 (resized).JPG
#1836 1 year ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Do any of these help?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Very helpfull thanks! I'll check tomorrow but I think my coils are upside down...

#1837 1 year ago

One issue I had was a small spacer washer missing for the operating rod between the carriage and the frame, might be worth a look.

#1838 1 year ago
Quoted from rwmech5:

One issue I had was a small spacer washer missing for the operating rod between the carriage and the frame, might be worth a look.

Cheers. Are those the washers that also help determine the final drop height?

#1839 1 year ago

No, they're listed as #7 in the manual on page 40 but not shown. They go between what's listed as #18 Pivot shaft and #15 Target lift bracket. Mine was missing 1 side and was binding off and on.

#1840 1 year ago

So one of the things about this pin that has always bothered me was it's horrible gun shooter...what the hell is it suppose to be? It doesn't even look like a gun. Even when I had mine powder coated to gun metal grey I still hated the looks of it.

After doing some looking around for an replacement I found myself looking at a Data East Last Action Hero. The bolt pattern appeared to be the same. After some carful measurements I found that were in fact the same hole pattern.

I found a used LAH shooter online and I bought it. After taking it apart and removing the "Smart Missile" button I painted and clear coated it. I just used a small plastic piece to cover the hole from the button. Part of the metal plate was sitting a little proud of the surface so I used a grinder to smooth it out. In the end this wasn't necessary. I simple used a piece of plastic as a spacer to allow for the wiring from the new gun to the original hole from the old gun.

I also changed the connector to match what I had in my cabinet, other than that this is a completely reversible change you can make yourself and it looks 100% better in my opinion.

I'm surprised others have not done this "upgrade"

Thoughts?
20220212_130028 (resized).jpg20220212_130028 (resized).jpg20220212_130040 (resized).jpg20220212_130040 (resized).jpgimage-14 (resized).jpgimage-14 (resized).jpgGS-LAH500-5731-00L (resized).jpgGS-LAH500-5731-00L (resized).jpg20220212_135248 (resized).jpg20220212_135248 (resized).jpg20220212_135255 (resized).jpg20220212_135255 (resized).jpg20220212_135236 (resized).jpg20220212_135236 (resized).jpg20220212_133835 (resized).jpg20220212_133835 (resized).jpg20220212_134721 (resized).jpg20220212_134721 (resized).jpg20220212_135017 (resized).jpg20220212_135017 (resized).jpg20220507_123342 (resized).jpg20220507_123342 (resized).jpg20220507_123423 (resized).jpg20220507_123423 (resized).jpg20220507_123357 (resized).jpg20220507_123357 (resized).jpg

#1841 1 year ago
Quoted from rwmech5:

No, they're listed as #7 in the manual on page 40 but not shown. They go between what's listed as #18 Pivot shaft and #15 Target lift bracket. Mine was missing 1 side and was binding off and on.

Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a go. I do know that 2 washers are used behind the retaining bracket and they adjust the final dropped position.

Screenshot_20220508-051048_Acrobat for Samsung (resized).jpgScreenshot_20220508-051048_Acrobat for Samsung (resized).jpg
#1842 1 year ago
Quoted from TxJay:

So one of the things about this pin that has always bothered me was it's horrible gun shooter...what the hell is it suppose to be? It doesn't even look like a gun. Even when I had mine powder coated to gun metal grey I still hated the looks of it.
After doing some looking around for an replacement I found myself looking at a Data East Last Action Hero. The bolt pattern appeared to be the same. After some carful measurements I found that were in fact the same hole pattern.
I found a used LAH shooter online and I bought it. After taking it apart and removing the "Smart Missile" button I painted and clear coated it. I just used a small plastic piece to cover the hole from the button. Part of the metal plate was sitting a little proud of the surface so I used a grinder to smooth it out. In the end this wasn't necessary. I simple used a piece of plastic as a spacer to allow for the wiring from the new gun to the original hole from the old gun.
I also changed the connector to match what I had in my cabinet, other than that this is a completely reversible change you can make yourself and it looks 100% better in my opinion.
I'm surprised others have not done this "upgrade"
Thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

With all the mods out there I’m surprised this one was never done as well. It is an ugly space looking “gun” from the factory.
Very nicely done

#1843 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

These are all the extra plastics I have. One of the blue lens is chipped and there is a chip in the clear guide. The rest including the building look to be in good shape. I don't have a Lethal Weapon so I don't need to hang onto them. Just would like to get something fair for the lot.
Robert

I'll take this one plastic piece if you don't mind continuing to part the set.

bf497d0045f80ac1f7c20a034588b535c7728ce8 (resized).jpgbf497d0045f80ac1f7c20a034588b535c7728ce8 (resized).jpg
#1844 1 year ago

Hey guys,

New member of the family here. Just picked up an LW3 this week off another Pinside member. Overall it's in pretty good shape, but I have a few items I'd like to get input/feedback on (2 issues and the rest superficial).

1) The #3 hole bounces out almost every time. I took the plastic cover off with the intention of looking at the metal bracket over the eject to see if I could add some foam or something that might dampen the impact and increase catches. When I did so I noticed that there's a metal post right next to the hole that did not have a rubber piece on it, and it has an indentation as if it should. I had some extra rubber pieces, but unfortunately none that fight right. The closest fit I had I put on there and now it properly catches the ball maybe 60% of the time...not great, but much better than what it was. Can anyone confirm if there should be a rubber here? Also, what are others doing to help catches for this specific hole?

3Post (resized).jpg3Post (resized).jpg
#1845 1 year ago

2) The center 3-bank target has bounced the ball at the left side of the cabinet a few times. After researching I found some posts earlier in this thread showing a plastic cover that should go over this 3-bank to limit or prevent the bouncing. Anyone know where I can find this piece? Anyone have a part # and know who carries this, or is anyone reproducing it?

3Bank(Center)Cover (resized).jpg3Bank(Center)Cover (resized).jpg
#1846 1 year ago
Quoted from slizzap:

2) The center 3-bank target has bounced the ball at the left side of the cabinet a few times. After researching I found some posts earlier in this thread showing a plastic cover that should go over this 3-bank to limit or prevent the bouncing. Anyone know where I can find this piece? Anyone have a part # and know who carries this, or is anyone reproducing it?[quoted image]

One of these days I'll get around to running off a dozen or so.

69408d15da0693ddbe6ae9a29d762a93942ab59f (resized).jpg69408d15da0693ddbe6ae9a29d762a93942ab59f (resized).jpg
#1847 1 year ago

3) Most of these are likely all superficial, but looking to get input. The most important concern is the first photo showing a comparison of the left and right outlane. It appears to me the left outlane should have a post with rubber to match what's on the right outlane, but looking for confirmation.

Outlane (resized).jpgOutlane (resized).jpg

For the rest, it looks as if someone that serviced this pin in the past may have just used whatever hardware they had on hand to fasten various pieces to the playfield. However, some of these are using plastic standoffs with screws that make me question whether they were propping up a piece of plastic or something else above it, or if it's simply incorrect and should be a simple screw/nut.

Any input is greatly appreciated!

3Gate (resized).jpg3Gate (resized).jpgSuperSpin(Left) (resized).jpgSuperSpin(Left) (resized).jpgSuperSpin(Right) (resized).jpgSuperSpin(Right) (resized).jpg
#1848 1 year ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

One of these days I'll get around to running off a dozen or so.

Please keep me in mind if you do. If I'm unable to find a proper replacement and you may be creating some in the near future, maybe I'll hack something up for the short-term. It won't be pretty, but I could probably get some spare lexan or acrylic from Home Depot and cut out/drill a piece.

#1849 1 year ago
Quoted from slizzap:

I'll take this one plastic piece if you don't mind continuing to part the set.[quoted image]

Sure. Let me dig that out and what I have left. I think that plastic is nice but the small clear piece attached to it may not be. That should be easy to make though. Will check.

#1850 1 year ago
Quoted from slizzap:

Please keep me in mind if you do. If I'm unable to find a proper replacement and you may be creating some in the near future, maybe I'll hack something up for the short-term. It won't be pretty, but I could probably get some spare lexan or acrylic from Home Depot and cut out/drill a piece.

They were never factory issue.

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