(Topic ID: 72256)

DataEast - Lethal Weapon 3 (lw3) club - Join if you have one or haf one...

By mima

8 years ago


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  • 1,902 posts
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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by slizzap
  • Topic is favorited by 115 Pinsiders

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“I am planing to make my self a set of repro plastics and are considering a making a very very limited run of sets. Are there any interest out there for this?”

  • I would run and grab me a set since there are no NOS made for this pin 58 votes
    45%
  • I would want to get a few single plastics, some are missing on my pin 52 votes
    40%
  • My pin has some beaten up plastics but I prefeer original plastics 4 votes
    3%
  • Nah, waste of moey. the pin plays well without / with warped and beaten up -plastics. 16 votes
    12%

(130 votes)

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There are 1,902 posts in this topic. You are on page 35 of 39.
#1701 5 months ago
Quoted from Bax1:

h so does anyone have theirs set up with a double stack stero pot? I have a lah and r&b as well and they have the standard 3 wire pot.
Anyone else have a huge metal plate?
Also, does anyone have the pin2dmd? how are the animations? is it complete?
I am really digging this game, it is a fun one!

I replaced mine with the one on marcos. Didn't fix my issue. I replaced the soundboard with a Pinsound and it works great, including the new pot.

Pin2Dmd looks great. I had a colorDMD in it as well, which I thought looked a little better. I need to update my Pin2Dmd firmware, maybe that'll help. It's definitely worth it if you can get one from a reliable source.

My topper beacon was busted but it was easily replaced bya 12v blue beacon from Amazon. I did have the holes and the wires already in place though. The one I bought was magentic so I added a metal plate.

#1702 5 months ago
Quoted from cabuford:

I replaced mine with the one on marcos. Didn't fix my issue. I replaced the soundboard with a Pinsound and it works great, including the new pot.
Pin2Dmd looks great. I had a colorDMD in it as well, which I thought looked a little better. I need to update my Pin2Dmd firmware, maybe that'll help. It's definitely worth it if you can get one from a reliable source.
My topper beacon was busted but it was easily replaced bya 12v blue beacon from Amazon. I did have the holes and the wires already in place though. The one I bought was magentic so I added a metal plate.

For the cost PIN2DMD is reasonable and honestly a pretty good colorization.

#1703 5 months ago
Quoted from harig:

just wondering how to win the ´fighting´video mode:
I have updated to Chads code which seems to have a more balanced difficulty.
With the standard code I was able to win the fight sometimes-with the Chad code I usually miss the win tightly
What is the strategy/approach on that fight mode?
Hitting the left/right button alternately or simultaneously?

No strategy, just button mashing. Press them quick and repeatedly. That's all there is to it.

#1704 5 months ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

No strategy, just button mashing. Press them quick and repeatedly. That's all there is to it.

I alternate like Nintendo button mashing. Seems to work for me. Luckily with chad's code it doesn't pop up all the time.

#1705 5 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Related to the voltage that the controlled lamps receive.

Oh, they still work even with that resistor totally smoked. Any idea?

The flipper board ended up blowing the fuse after all, and I swapped in a rottendog and my brand new board let out the magic smoke. Blew up C46.
Pretty pissed off. Might start a tech thread. Any suggestions on what to check?
Again the issue is intermittent left flipper locking on. Happened with both the original CPU and the rottendog. Happened with both new and old flipper board.
What else may be the issue here, possibly the PPB board?
Very Frustrated chasing this.

#1706 5 months ago

Also I noticed I have a bank of flashers I need to figure out. Manual says there’s 4 but I can only figure out three. The two in the left orbit red insert and one on playfield in a dome. Is there one under that plastic as well? Says two inserts and two playfield. It’s the black brown wire

Here’s a snap of the metal plate on top of the head. It looks to be riveted on

A8F5FE11-FFC0-4DDC-B409-834BA874F1A1 (resized).jpeg
#1707 5 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Oh, they still work even with that resistor totally smoked. Any idea?

Oh they can but the voltages might be off. You will have to meter the voltages on that string and compare to the others. I have a Siegecraft test lamp matrix I plug in and the string could be picked out with the naked eye.

Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

The flipper board ended up blowing the fuse after all, and I swapped in a rottendog and my brand new board let out the magic smoke. Blew up C46.
Pretty pissed off. Might start a tech thread. Any suggestions on what to check?
Again the issue is intermittent left flipper locking on. Happened with both the original CPU and the rottendog. Happened with both new and old flipper board.
What else may be the issue here, possibly the PPS board?
Very Frustrated chasing this.

1) Check the diodes on the coils and coil resistance.

2) The flipper circuit is fairly well contained looking at the manual. I would look close at the diodes and coils, examine the wiring too and fro to the board and check your voltages at the board connectors.

d7693dcf24ccee2b47f379b33378cffa49ce06b7 (resized).jpgflipper one (resized).jpgflipper two (resized).jpg
#1708 5 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

This is a good schematic of your knocker coil. Start by checking that your wires are soldered to the coil. Then check and make sure your diode on the coil is still good. Next go to your PPB board and check for burnt connections, transistor Q5 (TIP 36C) & Diode D16. Last check CPU board for burnt connections and transistor Q39
[quoted image]

trk12fire I tested the Q5 transistors on the pbbb and the Q39 transistor on the CPU. Both are perfect.... I disassembled the CPU to be able to test Q39.. Once I verified that it was fully functional I reassembled the CPU.... And the knocker is back to working properly.. I don't know what may have happened

#1709 5 months ago
Quoted from jamex:

trk12fire I tested the Q5 transistors on the pbbb and the Q39 transistor on the CPU. Both are perfect.... I disassembled the CPU to be able to test Q39.. Once I verified that it was fully functional I reassembled the CPU.... And the knocker is back to working properly.. I don't know what may have happened

Probably a loose wire or diode, bad molex connection or cracked solder joint.

#1710 5 months ago

I confirm that the screws 8-32 x3/8 are perfect, thank you very much

#1711 5 months ago
Quoted from trk12fire:

Probably a loose wire or diode, bad molex connection or cracked solder joint.

So the problem is bound to recur in the short term

#1712 5 months ago

No problem on the screws

#1713 5 months ago
Quoted from kba78:

No problem on the screws

Screws are perfect for boards. Thank you very much

#1714 5 months ago
Quoted from jamex:

So the problem is bound to recur in the short term

Definitely possible

1 week later
#1715 5 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Oh they can but the voltages might be off. You will have to meter the voltages on that string and compare to the others. I have a Siegecraft test lamp matrix I plug in and the string could be picked out with the naked eye.

1) Check the diodes on the coils and coil resistance.
2) The flipper circuit is fairly well contained looking at the manual. I would look close at the diodes and coils, examine the wiring too and fro to the board and check your voltages at the board connectors. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Bad diode! 8C0AFEF6-DE59-441E-A6C7-E3AD26FC643B.jpeg
Looked good! Had weird results testing it. Went to bend it away from the coil to test better and found this:
E2F606B0-6975-488D-B97B-AB97ADBD1498.jpeg
Broke right where it meets the flipper! Strange and sneaky!
The diode and flipper intermittence suddenly made sense. This stupid diode issue also caused the transistor on the flipper board to blowup so that’s why it was hard to track. One issue had caused 2 that made the flipper stick!
What’s the part # for the flipper transistors?

#1716 5 months ago

question-is there a ball save option in audits that I am not seeing? I can drain the ball right off the plunge and no ball save.

#1717 5 months ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Bad diode! [quoted image]
Looked good! Had weird results testing it. Went to bend it away from the coil to test better and found this:
[quoted image]
Broke right where it meets the flipper! Strange and sneaky!
The diode and flipper intermittence suddenly made sense. This stupid diode issue also caused the transistor on the flipper board to blowup so that’s why it was hard to track. One issue had caused 2 that made the flipper stick!
What’s the part # for the flipper transistors?

Could just solder it back.

1N4004 or 1N4007 diode would be fine, I use 4004 can keep about 50 around.

#1718 5 months ago
Quoted from Bax1:question-is there a ball save option in audits that I am not seeing? I can drain the ball right off the plunge and no ball save.

I couldn’t find it in the manual but my ball save is 3 or 5 switch hits. I remember reading about it somewhere and I’m assuming it was the manual but I don’t see it now.

#1719 5 months ago

Chad code has a good ball saver, the factory one is terrible on this title. Virtually useless.

#1720 5 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Chad code has a good ball saver, the factory one is terrible on this title. Virtually useless.

gotcha. I do need to burn chads code. so no adjustments in factory code?

#1721 5 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Could just solder it back.
1N4004 or 1N4007 diode would be fine, I use 4004 can keep about 50 around.

I tried, it was bad anyway.

Now it’s good as new! I’m so happy

1 week later
#1722 4 months ago

The blade switch at the front of the ramp entrance fell of at my game. I have replaced it ... but did not notice any change to game play.

Assume it is only there for triggering sound effects ?

.. the switch that registers that ramp has been made is placed higher up the ramp, I think.

Thanks for input!

#1723 4 months ago

Anyone install mirror blades in their LW3? If so, what brand and how was the install. There doesn’t appear to be much room between the play field and the inside of the cabinet. At a glance it doesn’t look like they’ll fit but I have seen a couple examples online where the blades were used. Curious if they get scratched up if the play field is lifted

#1724 4 months ago
Quoted from emcdan77:

Anyone install mirror blades in their LW3? If so, what brand and how was the install. There doesn’t appear to be much room between the play field and the inside of the cabinet. At a glance it doesn’t look like they’ll fit but I have seen a couple examples online where the blades were used. Curious if they get scratched up if the play field is lifted

I have mirror blades on mine. I bought them from pinballsidemirrors.com. I don't think they are still in business though. They have been on for about 2 years with no scratches. I am careful when lifting the playfield each time. I also installed a thin felt strip (1mm thickness) on each side of the playfield to help with scratches .

This is the felt I bought:

amazon.com link »

#1725 4 months ago
Quoted from TxJay:

I have mirror blades on mine. I bought them from pinballsidemirrors.com. I don't think they are still in business though. They have been on for about 2 years with no scratches. I am careful when lifting the playfield each time. I also installed a thin felt strip (1mm thickness) on each side of the playfield to help with scratches .
This is the felt I bought:
amazon.com link »

Gonna use this on my BPM which chews up the sides when you lift the playfield!

#1726 4 months ago
Quoted from Hans_Saris:

The blade switch at the front of the ramp entrance fell of at my game. I have replaced it ... but did not notice any change to game play.
Assume it is only there for triggering sound effects ?
.. the switch that registers that ramp has been made is placed higher up the ramp, I think.
Thanks for input!

Does anyone know? Thanks, Hans

#1727 4 months ago
Quoted from emcdan77:

Anyone install mirror blades in their LW3? If so, what brand and how was the install. There doesn’t appear to be much room between the play field and the inside of the cabinet. At a glance it doesn’t look like they’ll fit but I have seen a couple examples online where the blades were used. Curious if they get scratched up if the play field is lifted

I got my mirror blades I think from Cointaker - no issues looks great fit fine.

A great title for mirror blades.

#1728 4 months ago

Anyone happen to have a clean copy of the manual? Need a clean pic of addresses for sound board. Online is muddied when you zoom in. Trying to see u13, u12, u22 to u17 u21. Help is greatly appreciated

#1729 4 months ago
21E47D48-30CE-4228-A71F-A36BE412E5E2.jpegB0DC822C-AA43-4C82-9C86-989595327E08.jpeg
#1730 4 months ago

Thank you Parkshow30 could you flip the schematic picture and zoom in on the above chips for me please?

#1731 4 months ago
54ADB26A-0752-4626-AFC4-416307D0F88D.jpeg
#1732 4 months ago

Perfect!!! Thank you very much Parkshow30

#1733 4 months ago

Need some help with the data east sound board guru's. Working on a lw3 sound board and have never had to work on a sound board before. Here is what is going on. Have music and only a couple call outs. majority of the call outs are missing. here is what I've done so far. New ribbon cables, had to replace the pot due to it being blown, redid the connector from the pot to the board, verified roms are good, pulled ram and verified good, swapped out the 6809E with a known good one, pin 4 on bsmt2000 shows high on logic probe. in sound test it can be intermittent, sometimes you get the tones from left both and right, sometimes the voice test works but says something different than what the manual says it should say. Thinking need to check the pia's on the mpu but guidance is appreciated.

#1734 4 months ago

So just did some probing and some legs on the data bus are high with pulse, quick switch from high low with a pulse when switches low, and a couple low. This is with it on game play and probed the 6821 at 7b.

#1735 4 months ago

SOLVED. used logic probe on pia on mpu and found a couple legs stuck on low. Pulled and put in the tester and tested bad. swapped with a new 6821 and have all sounds now.

#1736 4 months ago

Where should I add the motorcycle toy?
1)ramp entrance,
2)scene 2 pop out
3) rear right back by the mirror
4) launcher area

CD52B42E-5881-4CBA-9196-9514957ED4EC (resized).jpegA1E1C56D-6A89-4476-9D34-9C87F09A7EC7 (resized).jpeg0D21348F-04F2-495E-B8ED-85080E240AC2 (resized).jpeg5F39C04C-1B07-44F7-AD02-A1AB802259A8 (resized).jpeg
#1737 4 months ago
Quoted from STLOkie:

Where should I add the motorcycle toy?
1)ramp entrance,
2)scene 2 pop out
3) rear right back by the mirror
4) launcher area
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Not a fan of toys, but I like 3 because the back right corner is barren and forgotten. Thanks DE!
2 looks really cool but that area is so busy that the motorcycle gets lost in it

#1738 4 months ago

Mine ended up over the drop targets on top of my airball deflector.

Resized_16453500192775396752325567860078_645287537453595 (resized).jpeg
#1739 4 months ago

I have owned a LW3 for about 4 months now. I don’t post much but love pinballs. The thing that changed this game for me was disconnecting the CN7 connector from the power supply board. It is the GI flash relay control power. If you disconnect it the GI lights stay on and don’t flash. I couldn’t stand this when I got this pin. The GI goes through a normally closed set of contacts and if you pull this connector the coil on this relay has no power. The crazy GI flashing stops and this pin is really enjoyable with LEDs.

2E4603A9-0F6A-41C0-80EB-1EC11BBCC009 (resized).jpeg5E773A03-7F33-4100-B480-4764ED4FAFE5 (resized).jpegD165BFCE-2985-4E54-BC9C-ED0D8E2F6357 (resized).jpeg
#1740 4 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Mine ended up over the drop targets on top of my airball deflector.
[quoted image]

Where'd you get the airball deflector from?

#1741 4 months ago
Quoted from Shmilder:

Where'd you get the airball deflector from?

I made it from Lexan.

#1742 4 months ago

I need to make a set for mine so I can get a new plastics set and I also need to make one for my striker Xtreme, just busted a plastic on that one off the drops. Glued the piece back on and I kid you not the very next game I got an air ball that hit the EXACT same spot and busted it again!

Quoted from gdonovan:

I made it from Lexan.

What did you use to cut it? I see I can get a piece big enough for both my games for $7.99 around the corner from me. What thickness did you use? Thanks

#1743 4 months ago
Quoted from Parkshow30:

I

What did you use to cut it? I see I can get a piece big enough for both my games for $7.99 around the corner from me. What thickness did you use? Thanks

Plastic cutter and bench belt sander, 1/8"

#1744 4 months ago

Anyone here be up for an alternative translite? Im thinking about ideas and this game got me back into playing over fixing and repairing machines...

#1745 4 months ago

What would cause the right side of the group of lights under the translite to suddenly be all dimmed?

Left side is super bright but right side lights have dimmed right down to almost being out?

No changes been made and have checked all the fuses as well. Cant see any burnt connectors either.

#1746 4 months ago
Quoted from Deafman013:

What would cause the right side of the group of lights under the translite to suddenly be all dimmed?
Left side is super bright but right side lights have dimmed right down to almost being out?
No changes been made and have checked all the fuses as well. Cant see any burnt connectors either.

Loose plug in the back box … the plug for the lights in the back box is under stress, I had to replace a plug for a similar issue.

#1747 4 months ago
Quoted from trueno92:

Anyone here be up for an alternative translite? Im thinking about ideas and this game got me back into playing over fixing and repairing machines...

There is an alternate already out there even has matching cabinet decals.

But it is always interesting to see what people come up with.

#1750 4 months ago
Quoted from trueno92:

Anyone here be up for an alternative translite? Im thinking about ideas and this game got me back into playing over fixing and repairing machines...

I always thought something hand drawn and slightly more 'cartoony' would look cool. A style similar to Taxi translite. Not a big fan of a giant photo of an actor's face as the focus of a translite. I'd definitely consider swapping mine out if a better one existed. Like removing the two big faces, leaving the rest and replacing the space with more references to the movies.

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