Lethal Weapon 3
Data East, 1992Quoted from bushav:Pin2DMD will perform like your requesting. Just don’t load the color pallet file. Then In the menu tweak the four color pallet to your preference.
If you want a factory DMD I have one in great shape. $150.
That likely won’t solve his voltage problem…he need the new DMD
Quoted from STLOkie:It's funny because I thought the same way about boards and mine is also brand new. I didn't buy it but the guy I bought the table from just put in a brand new "Pin-tek" power supply. That appears to be what the issue was. I spoke to the team that made the board and they noted that the newer resisters and power supplies can have trouble with the high voltage the old Data East DMD draw. Basically old power supplies do better in their opinion, mainly because of the quality of the older resisters/capacitors. They said the older the DMD the quicker the problems can develop. Sadly my old power supply still "works" but is unreliable and just a real mess that isn't worth the cost to salvage. Thus I'm kicking around a new color DMD.
I would recommend saving an old boards and selling them to someone who wants to fix them (nothing really beats rebuilding the Originals) or sell them with the game when you sell it. I always appreciate getting the old boards with a game even if they don’t work at the moment!
My LW3 is having some sound issues. The game constantly says “we’re back in action!” over and over again while attempting to play the music. The music cuts in and out or sometimes totally disappears but the sound and noises all remain.
Where should I start looking, or does anyone know what the issue is? For reference this game is bone stock, been on route it’s entire life and never had any upgrades or rebuilds. I repinned half the burnt connectors already, but otherwise it’s been a tank.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:I would recommend saving an old boards and selling them to someone who wants to fix them (nothing really beats rebuilding the Originals) or sell them with the game when you sell it. I always appreciate getting the old boards with a game even if they don’t work at the moment!
My LW3 is having some sound issues. The game constantly says “we’re back in action!” over and over again while attempting to play the music. The music cuts in and out or sometimes totally disappears but the sound and noises all remain.
Where should I start looking, or does anyone know what the issue is? For reference this game is bone stock, been on route it’s entire life and never had any upgrades or rebuilds. I repinned half the burnt connectors already, but otherwise it’s been a tank.
I was debating about paying someone to fix the old power supply but I'll see.
I was having crazy sound issues somewhat similar to yours. I put in a new cable, that didn't work. I then just replaced all three sound ROMs and that fixed my issue. I likely could have gotten away with figuring out which ROM was messing up and replacing just that one but they were so cheap it was just as easy to replace all 3.
Quoted from STLOkie:I was debating about paying someone to fix the old power supply but I'll see.
I was having crazy sound issues somewhat similar to yours. I put in a new cable, that didn't work. I then just replaced all three sound ROMs and that fixed my issue. I likely could have gotten away with figuring out which ROM was messing up and replacing just that one but they were so cheap it was just as easy to replace all 3.
I would love to keep old boards after they are fixed by someone who does board work, rather then me to hack at it. But, like I said before you are likely waiting for months for a game to be back up and running that is why I buy new.
I am going to sell my old boards even though most probably are good as is or a small repair or two, it is just faster when you restore to add more parts to the list just to make it faster to get it done.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:I would recommend saving an old boards and selling them to someone who wants to fix them (nothing really beats rebuilding the Originals) or sell them with the game when you sell it. I always appreciate getting the old boards with a game even if they don’t work at the moment!
My LW3 is having some sound issues. The game constantly says “we’re back in action!” over and over again while attempting to play the music. The music cuts in and out or sometimes totally disappears but the sound and noises all remain.
Where should I start looking, or does anyone know what the issue is? For reference this game is bone stock, been on route it’s entire life and never had any upgrades or rebuilds. I repinned half the burnt connectors already, but otherwise it’s been a tank.
reset all settings, pull batteries, reseat sound roms and make sure that sound board is getting the 5v and other voltages, check the harnesses leaving from the psu
i don't mind original boards but generally, they are hacked up a bit by the time is thrown our way and need a good eye to understand and undo what was done to make them 'better than new'. New boards are redesigned with modern components and work great for the most part. most horror stories i have read/seen are a result of a new board but forced to play nice with other tweaks in the machine that are not factory.
Quoted from wamonkey:That likely won’t solve his voltage problem…he need the new DMD
if his voltage issue is with the HV section, then he can totally pull the fuse on those rails and run a pin2dmd.
I did this with a demolition man for a while and a stern red low-voltage dmd and its a non-issue..
in fact i pulled all the hv fuses from my games that are running LED dmds.
Quoted from trueno92:if his voltage issue is with the HV section, then he can totally pull the fuse on those rails and run a pin2dmd.
I pulled the whole high voltage section on a LW3 power supply, hahaha.
It was wrecked.
Running Pin2DMD.
wow, thats a lot of work if you want to practice your thru-hole component pulling lol.
heck you could even take the voltage inputs, run a williams/bally dmd board and just steal the HV section and run the HV outputs direct to a DMD display...
pretty sure its been done more than once... run it to a rottendog b/w dmd board as it runs way cooler....
OR, you can just run a pin2dmd. pulling the fuses optional.
Quoted from trueno92:wow, thats a lot of work if you want to practice your thru-hole component pulling lol.
Have a desoldering station, didn't take any time at all. If I cut the leads off the various components it would have taken even less.
The HV section was borked and needed to be re-done. Since I was running a Pin2DMD no high voltage was required.
Data East did release a TSB on the erroneous schematic but the damage was done by the time I came across it.
https://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb38.pdf
048686f6c3fffdd59f7602f77a2e0a411e5c43d9 (resized).jpgOk this was only my second pin ever and certainly a project. I’m super happy with how it turned out. Needed new sound ROMs, new power supply, decals, LEDs, pop targets, flippers and a whole bunch of playfield art work. Here’s a few before and after. I also cleaned up the lock down bar and back a bit because why not. Big thanks to wamonkey and
JOEYDPINBALL for their help and input. Great community here.
FA60AFCC-CDDF-4C9F-960F-C314875C958D (resized).jpeg
24E15DD9-7112-4233-BA7C-ACA1108FD41E (resized).jpegC8660164-2779-4026-8AFB-EEF2B539E4FD (resized).jpeg7E044DC5-0A6E-4975-9BC0-73CE8FAFDA34 (resized).jpeg23C8322F-B106-404E-9CAC-9D748B528529 (resized).jpegEBB83524-1AF4-491F-B3CF-1907CAA902F8 (resized).jpegC5556541-D050-4C04-B0F5-71104393C6A9 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from STLOkie:Ok this was only my second pin ever and certainly a project. I’m super happy with how it turned out. Needed new sound ROMs, new power supply, decals, LEDs, pop targets, flippers and a whole bunch of playfield art work. Here’s a few before and after. I also cleaned up the lock down bar and back a bit because why not. Big thanks to wamonkey and JOEYDPINBALL for their help and input. Great community here. [quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks good - great work….
I know you and I were doing a restore at the same time…
Good to be done just before XMas - right?
Quoted from wamonkey:Looks good - great work….
I know you and I were doing a restore at the same time…
Good to be done just before XMas - right?
Absolutely. We are actually having a big holiday party this weekend so having this done and next to my High Speed will be a blast. Such a fun game.
Quoted from STLOkie:Absolutely. We are actually having a big holiday party this weekend so having this done and next to my High Speed will be a blast. Such a fun game.
I only get to the scene where I pull Murtaugh off the toilet about two times since it was finished. Funny after I resolved my flipper issue it has been nice and tweak / error free. Usually after a big restore I am tweaking little things for weeks but have not found much to tweak.
So - 90's fun...
Quoted from wamonkey:So - 90's fun...
I think it's a really fun and underrate game.
All my targets were snapped off and I replaced them. Seems like the switches are dirty and not registering unless I push on the back of them. So, I’m assuming they’re supposed to go back up immediately after knocking all 3 down
Quoted from Da-Shaker:Quick question: when the upper 3 drop targets are knocked down are they supposed to come up right away or do you have to knock down the lower right targets first. Mine only pop back up after knocking the lower right targets.
[quoted image]
I’m running Chad’s code. Mine stay down until all six are down. They then reset.
Quoted from bushav:I’m running Chad’s code. Mine stay down until all six are down. They then reset.
Thank you. That’s some good info, before I start tearing it apart, lol
Quoted from bushav:I’m running Chad’s code. Mine stay down until all six are down. They then reset.
So your settings are such that all six drop targets must be completed three times each to activate multiball? And 5 of six remain down until all six in both banks are completed?
SLAM's code:
Hit the middle clock target to start a timer, then hit either the red or blue wire as instructed. Hit the wrong wire and the bomb explodes. Don't hit any wire in time, and the bomb explodes. Hit the correct wire to collect the award and reset the bank. Successfully cut the correct wire 3 times to ready multiball.
Doesn't matter which target bank you shoot for, the rules are the same for both. The crazy fun part of the game is accidently cutting the wrong wire, which sets of the bomb, and resets your progress towards multiball back to zero (you need 3 correct wires in a row to ready multiball).
But this is SLAM's code.
Quoted from jamex:Finally after 11 years of Research, I managed to find the original dome not broken[quoted image]
Should post that in "rare and prototype" parts thread.
Quoted from jamex:Finally after 11 years of Research, I managed to find the original dome not broken[quoted image]
That had to have been expensive!! It is super rare.
Quoted from jamex:Finally after 11 years of Research, I managed to find the original dome not broken[quoted image]
Holy sweet lord, HOW?!? WHERE?!?
I’m having a new issues today on my lethal weapon. I posted about my sound randomly resetting when the volume gets too loud, such as when multiball starts it keeps saying “we’re back in action!”
Now the left flipper is staying energized. In the middle of my game this morning when I fired up the arcade, the left flipper engaged and stayed on, low power, and when I opened the door I felt the coil and tried tugging the link. It’s not magnetized or bad stops, it’s definitely somehow staying energized, but the flipper button is open.
Any idea what could be causing such a strange issue?
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Holy sweet lord, HOW?!? WHERE?!?
I’m having a new issues today on my lethal weapon. I posted about my sound randomly resetting when the volume gets too loud, such as when multiball starts it keeps saying “we’re back in action!”
Now the left flipper is staying energized. In the middle of my game this morning when I fired up the arcade, the left flipper engaged and stayed on, low power, and when I opened the door I felt the coil and tried tugging the link. It’s not magnetized or bad stops, it’s definitely somehow staying energized, but the flipper button is open.
Any idea what could be causing such a strange issue?
On your flipper issue, look at the first 10 minutes of this video. He had a similar issue on his Data East "Hook" and traced it to the flipper board:
Quoted from jamex:It's absurd but I found it from a guy who lives 1 hour from my house at a cost of 40 euros (about 45 dollars), there are a few superficial scratches but it is perfect
Keep it nice!! Mine had an original but it was dented and cracked at the very very top and not visible when the head is up.
Quoted from trueno92:Keep it nice!! Mine had an original but it was dented and cracked at the very very top and not visible when the head is up.
My first dome is also broken at the top, as I will never sell the pinball, I will keep this dome in the best possible way
Quoted from jamex:My first dome is also broken at the top, as I will never sell the pinball, I will keep this dome in the best possible way
Is it possible for someone State-side to acquire one of the rare NOS domes and send them to one of the ramp makers for them to make new plastic domes?
Quoted from STLOkie:On your flipper issue, look at the first 10 minutes of this video. He had a similar issue on his Data East "Hook" and traced it to the flipper board:
I’m having the reverse issue that the flipper hold
power is locking ON. However his video seems to suggest maybe the transistor is locking on the flipper board. I’ll give it a check
Can someone with an original dome take some clear pictures of it with the plastic off? I don’t want to replace mine, I’ll get this one working. I think it’s missing some sort of connector between the reflector and the motor. It’s different than a Mars light.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Is it possible for someone State-side to acquire one of the rare NOS domes and send them to one of the ramp makers for them to make new plastic domes?
For many years I have been asking all spare parts manufacturers if it was possible to produce a replacement dome and never received a positive response. I never understood why
Quoted from jamex:For many years I have been asking all spare parts manufacturers if it was possible to produce a replacement dome and never received a positive response. I never understood why
A lot of LW3 missing the whole assembly so the dome itself does little good. Add to the fact, auto blue lamp assemblies are only 20 to 30 dollars.. a new dome might actually be a very small market slice.
Quoted from gdonovan:A lot of LW3 missing the whole assembly so the dome itself does little good. Add to the fact, auto blue lamp assemblies are only 20 to 30 dollars.. a new dome might actually be a very small market slice.
Luckily I have the original and fully functional mechanism of the flashing light. I was just missing the dome. I understand that only the dome could be a slice of the market not very large, but not too small either. All LW3 owners would like one, in my opinion
Quoted from jamex:Luckily I have the original and fully functional mechanism of the flashing light. I was just missing the dome. I understand that only the dome could be a slice of the market not very large, but not too small either. All LW3 owners would like one, in my opinion
Nope, I'm good with the aftermarket solution.
Mine had none at all when I purchased it.
Quoted from gdonovan:Nope, I'm good with the aftermarket solution.
Mine had none at all when I purchased it.
Could someone post some pictures of what the official, original dome and mechanism look like? Installed and / or uninstalled.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Could someone post some pictures of what the official, original dome and mechanism look like? Installed and / or uninstalled.
That what I was asking for above.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:I’m having the reverse issue that the flipper hold
power is locking ON. However his video seems to suggest maybe the transistor is locking on the flipper board. I’ll give it a check
Can someone with an original dome take some clear pictures of it with the plastic off? I don’t want to replace mine, I’ll get this one working. I think it’s missing some sort of connector between the reflector and the motor. It’s different than a Mars light.
My LW3 stopped awarding extra balls. The ramp shots are registering and both ramp switches seem to be working. Is there a setting in the menu that I am missing that turns the extra ball options off? Hoping someone can help. Thanks.
Quoted from goofy1994:My LW3 stopped awarding extra balls. The ramp shots are registering and both ramp switches seem to be working. Is there a setting in the menu that I am missing that turns the extra ball options off? Hoping someone can help. Thanks.
I know the entrance to the ramp switch doesn’t need to work to award your extra balls. I believe it’s calculated off the top ramp switch. Make sure the switch registers when a ball rolls through, not just your hand lifting it. If it does register, I’d then go to your settings. It might be awarding something other than extra ball
Something else that happens in the game regardless of what your settings are, is that the better you get and the more often you get the extra balls, the less often it will award them.
Default settings and no history will give you light extra ball after 3 shots up the ramp. Sometimes it'll go to 4 or 5 shots up the ramp and then it will settle at around 7 ramp shots. I've never found the exact setting or math formula responsible for varying it as I wondered about that too. Best I can tell is that you can't alter it to stay the same.
You pretty much have to take it as a good sign that you're having good games and it's making it harder for you.
Quoted from AlexRogan84:Something else that happens in the game regardless of what your settings are, is that the better you get and the more often you get the extra balls, the less often it will award them.
Default settings and no history will give you light extra ball after 3 shots up the ramp. Sometimes it'll go to 4 or 5 shots up the ramp and then it will settle at around 7 ramp shots. I've never found the exact setting or math formula responsible for varying it as I wondered about that too. Best I can tell is that you can't alter it to stay the same.
You pretty much have to take it as a good sign that you're having good games and it's making it harder for you.
If you're using chads updated code the extra ball ramps max out at 17, so after several good games EB will always light at 17 ramp shots. At first I thought it was excessive but the ramp shot is an easy one so hitting 17 in a good game is definitely doable.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Swapped in a working flipper board, the rottendog replacement I had way back for my checkpoint.
Same issue.
Think I found the problem.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Nope, thats all lamp matrix at least in the image posted.
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Now the left flipper is staying energized. In the middle of my game this morning when I fired up the arcade, the left flipper engaged and stayed on, low power, and when I opened the door I felt the coil and tried tugging the link. It’s not magnetized or bad stops, it’s definitely somehow staying energized, but the flipper button is open.
Any idea what could be causing such a strange issue?
1) Does the flipper stay on when the flipper board is unplugged?
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Swapped in a working flipper board, the rottendog replacement I had way back for my checkpoint.
Same issue.
Think I found the problem.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:Swapped in a working flipper board, the rottendog replacement I had way back for my checkpoint.
Same issue.
Think I found the problem.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I had a coil locking on (VUK) when I purchased my pin. I chased the issue for weeks. Only after buying a logic tester was I able to do some real trouble shooting. It turned out to be corrosion under the connector assembly. I had to desolder and clean up the board. That said, the most common cause is a shorted diode. You’ve got to dig into the schematics to troubleshoot your issue. If your coil isn’t blowing a fuse or melting diodes I’d say your flipper board is functioning correctly as it would seem to be switching to low voltage as a hold current which is correct response to a constant “on” command.
Quoted from STLOkie:I finally got some time to really play my LW3. Really a fun game that gives me the “just one more game” mindset. Only thing I don’t like is the punching flipper button mini game.
I'm not totally sure but if I remember correctly one can turn of video mode(s) in the adjustments. Maybe only possible in chads code
Quoted from STLOkie:I finally got some time to really play my LW3. Really a fun game that gives me the “just one more game” mindset. Only thing I don’t like is the punching flipper button mini game.
Check out my code update... this is a small part of it:
New Adjustment 31 - VIDEO MODES default is 03.
00 No Video Modes
01 Crime Simulator ON, Fight Mode OFF
02 Crime Simulator OFF, Fight Mode ON
03 All Video Modes ON
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