(Topic ID: 72256)

Data East - Lethal Weapon 3 (LW3) Club

By mima

10 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 2,360 posts
  • 265 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by steph06
  • Topic is favorited by 124 Pinsiders

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“I am planing to make my self a set of repro plastics and are considering a making a very very limited run of sets. Are there any interest out there for this?”

  • I would run and grab me a set since there are no NOS made for this pin 69 votes
    47%
  • I would want to get a few single plastics, some are missing on my pin 54 votes
    37%
  • My pin has some beaten up plastics but I prefeer original plastics 5 votes
    3%
  • Nah, waste of moey. the pin plays well without / with warped and beaten up -plastics. 18 votes
    12%

(146 votes)

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There are 2,360 posts in this topic. You are on page 32 of 48.
#1551 2 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

I should have clarified, Steve is the owner of Pinball Resource, he’s the “grumpy” guy on the phone. Did you email them instead? I’ve never gone that route.

I deal with Jimmy exclusively via email

#1552 2 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I deal with Jimmy exclusively via email

I only email - they had them when I ordered via email.

#1553 2 years ago

One question for the group just doing some tweaks from my full restore...almost everything is working great just one little stumper....

I have completely rebuilt my flippers, new coils, new sleeves, new everything (except flipper button switches) and now the flipper will not hold up when pressed.

Before I restored the game no issues - the flippers held but all I get now is a pulse, it is strong but I cannot hold a ball the flipper only pulses....

Lots of posts on flippers and issues on the forum hoping someone can help sort through the stuff and give me a little guidance. I replaced my power driver board (PPB) and the power supply board on this game already just because I saw one hack on one of the boards I did not like.

Any suggestions - anyone?

#1554 2 years ago

Work has me only home a few days this month but I’m still getting some things accomplished. Powder coated the coin door and pistol yesterday.

D46C49F7-AAE6-4E5B-A18F-27604F3722F3 (resized).jpegD46C49F7-AAE6-4E5B-A18F-27604F3722F3 (resized).jpeg

B3D13EAC-F971-42EC-87FF-ABEF640971CF (resized).jpegB3D13EAC-F971-42EC-87FF-ABEF640971CF (resized).jpeg
#1555 2 years ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

I got mine from Pinball Resource - Marco or Pinball Life never had them - always out of stock. They worked great thanks to ALexRogan84 for the pics and the help on the install (they differ slightly on the tabs).

This is good to know. one of mine is cracked and it's a major pain to replace just the translucent yellow chiclet as they are riveted together.

#1556 2 years ago
Quoted from bushav:

Work has me only home a few days this month but I’m still getting some things accomplished. Powder coated the coin door and pistol yesterday.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

wow, looks really good for a home setup.
Did not know there is chrome style powder available-just out of curiosity: do you have a pic or the type of powder used ?

#1557 2 years ago
Quoted from jamex:

Hi, can someone please tell me the codes of the lamp socket in the backbox? For
flash and normal lamps. Thanks

This

Screenshot_20211201-100919003 (1) (resized).jpgScreenshot_20211201-100919003 (1) (resized).jpg
#1558 2 years ago
Quoted from harig:

wow, looks really good for a home setup.
Did not know there is chrome style powder available-just out of curiosity: do you have a pic or the type of powder used ?

It’s from Eastwood. I don’t have the code with me but it’s a single coat product. My limitation at the moment is the oven size. I bought a double oven for $100 and haven’t had time to modify it into a single larger oven. I will still not have enough space for the side rails. I’m considering just using the guts and fabricating a 4 x 4 x 6 oven. The only reason I hesitate is because of the space it will take up in the shop. Powder coating has turned out to be fun and rewarding. Striping the parts of the old coating is not so much fun

36627700-AC8A-48E0-B316-24B2E8FADA1D (resized).jpeg36627700-AC8A-48E0-B316-24B2E8FADA1D (resized).jpeg79B6DAE6-AE02-4C28-8C68-D97E5D768B82 (resized).jpeg79B6DAE6-AE02-4C28-8C68-D97E5D768B82 (resized).jpegDF48288B-1F7B-43F7-893B-15B6B990F12B (resized).jpegDF48288B-1F7B-43F7-893B-15B6B990F12B (resized).jpeg
#1559 2 years ago
Quoted from jamex:

Hi, can someone please tell me the codes of the lamp socket in the backbox? For
flash and normal lamps. Thanks

Try this. Very helpful. I didn't create the original, but don't remember where I found it so can't give the proper credit.

EDIT: I am trying to add the Excel file that has these images plus the list of what type of bulb each of those is, but can't seem to add an Excel file here. Sorry!

Basically, for the backbox, it's all wedge base bulbs. The green circles are regular bulbs and the orange circles are the flashers.

For the playfield, same idea except the additional purple circles are for round base bulbs. Green is still wedge base and the orange circles are flashers.

Bulb locations backbox (resized).pngBulb locations backbox (resized).pngBulb locations playfield (resized).pngBulb locations playfield (resized).png
#1560 2 years ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

One question for the group just doing some tweaks from my full restore...almost everything is working great just one little stumper....
I have completely rebuilt my flippers, new coils, new sleeves, new everything (except flipper button switches) and now the flipper will not hold up when pressed.
Before I restored the game no issues - the flippers held but all I get now is a pulse, it is strong but I cannot hold a ball the flipper only pulses....
Lots of posts on flippers and issues on the forum hoping someone can help sort through the stuff and give me a little guidance. I replaced my power driver board (PPB) and the power supply board on this game already just because I saw one hack on one of the boards I did not like.
Any suggestions - anyone?

Here's what my flippers look like underneath for comparison. And the flipper board too. Anything unusual about your board? Some of the fuse clips on these boards from Data East get flimsy over time and break off or stop making good contact. A few on mine were soldered in place with the fuse when I first got it.

IMG_1606 (resized).JPGIMG_1606 (resized).JPGIMG_1692 (resized).JPGIMG_1692 (resized).JPGIMG_3064 (resized).JPGIMG_3064 (resized).JPG
#1561 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Try this. Very helpful. I didn't create the original, but don't remember where I found it so can't give the proper credit.
EDIT: I am trying to add the Excel file that has these images plus the list of what type of bulb each of those is, but can't seem to add an Excel file here. Sorry!
Basically, for the backbox, it's all wedge base bulbs. The green circles are regular bulbs and the orange circles are the flashers.
For the playfield, same idea except the additional purple circles are for round base bulbs. Green is still wedge base and the orange circles are flashers.
[quoted image][quoted image]

First of all I thank you

I need the code of the lamp holder and not the lamp. The one circled in red is broken and I can't find the code to order the spare part

#1562 2 years ago
Quoted from jamex:

First of all I thank you
I need the code of the lamp holder and not the lamp. The one circled in red is broken and I can't find the code to order the spare part

lol, sorry. I looked at that after I wrote it and thought you might have been trying to replace the holder and not the bulbs themselves.

Not sure what the code is off hand. Let me see if I can help you figure it out.

#1563 2 years ago
Quoted from bushav:

It’s from Eastwood. I don’t have the code with me but it’s a single coat product. My limitation at the moment is the oven size. I bought a double oven for $100 and haven’t had time to modify it into a single larger oven. I will still not have enough space for the side rails. I’m considering just using the guts and fabricating a 4 x 4 x 6 oven. The only reason I hesitate is because of the space it will take up in the shop. Powder coating has turned out to be fun and rewarding. Striping the parts of the old coating is not so much fun
//<![CDATA[
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[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

There could be a lot of money in your services if you start taking on chroming Demolition Man handles.

See how durable the chrome lasts on reassembly/usage, currently to rechrome 4 pcs of pot metal for dm handles is like $400 and a 6 month wait.

#1564 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Here's what my flippers look like underneath for comparison. And the flipper board too. Anything unusual about your board? Some of the fuse clips on these boards from Data East get flimsy over time and break off or stop making good contact. A few on mine were soldered in place with the fuse when I first got it.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Oh - I totally agree - the fuse holders seemed so weak when I pulled the fuses maybe that is my problem. I may just get a new flipper board like you did since the issue is still stumping me and likely will take just as much time to get the specific transistor or fuse clip as it will a whole new board and a lot less guessing on what is wrong.

I have to get my project LW3 out of the space we use for the Christmas tree too so my land rent is being revoked by my wife I think.

#1565 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

lol, scusa. L'ho guardato dopo averlo scritto e ho pensato che potresti aver provato a sostituire il supporto e non le lampadine stesse.
Non sono sicuro di quale sia il codice fuori mano. Fammi vedere se posso aiutarti a capirlo.

Very thanks

#1566 2 years ago

Where can you pick up the #3 speaker grill plates?

#1567 2 years ago

So after help from multiple people in the forum I would call my LW3 largely done - I have a new coin door I have to re-wire then it will be 100%.

I am sure I over-spent on this machine but it looks good.

The flipper issue was the board like many said, must have been a bad fuse holder.

But I installed my mirror blades, extra LED strips on the back and ball trough and a couple extra spot lights, my PIN2DMD is installed, new beacon and LED bulb. Please don’t hate the orange Williams flipper bats but when I was rebuilding my flippers I noticed the Data East ones were cracked and I had new orange Williams bats - I could not justify a whole new order just for flipper bats when I had them just with a logo on them.

Wish me luck on the coin door re-wire I have to get this out of the living room to make room for the XMas tree, per my wife….

I clear coated the playfield and it looks good but if I was really going high end it should have had a new playfield but let’s face facts LW3 doesn’t hold value that high and I would have a hard time justifying it. Again…not perfect but pretty good…it has new legs, new side rails and lock down bars (same price to powder coat them of just buy new) and thanks to Pinball Plating for he chrome gun handle.

38B97D40-B81F-4B7C-9134-A8478F124F0C (resized).jpeg38B97D40-B81F-4B7C-9134-A8478F124F0C (resized).jpeg627C0AD5-6522-4CCF-BB76-B9CDB35343AF (resized).jpeg627C0AD5-6522-4CCF-BB76-B9CDB35343AF (resized).jpeg9E92AC00-871D-4FC5-A13E-28A3A15445D9 (resized).jpeg9E92AC00-871D-4FC5-A13E-28A3A15445D9 (resized).jpeg9F8AA58F-A0D3-404E-9B19-9F4172007845 (resized).jpeg9F8AA58F-A0D3-404E-9B19-9F4172007845 (resized).jpegC66244F9-5769-4486-872A-21247DCE8581 (resized).jpegC66244F9-5769-4486-872A-21247DCE8581 (resized).jpegE4988E02-8703-43EC-860A-E87C7F10C4F1 (resized).jpegE4988E02-8703-43EC-860A-E87C7F10C4F1 (resized).jpegF45811F9-F199-4C8E-A3C9-F596384DDA0C (resized).jpegF45811F9-F199-4C8E-A3C9-F596384DDA0C (resized).jpeg
#1568 2 years ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

So after help from multiple people in the forum I would call my LW3 largely done - I have a new coin door I have to re-wire then it will be 100%.
I am sure I over-spent on this machine but it looks good.
The flipper issue was the board like many said, must have been a bad fuse holder.
But I installed my mirror blades, extra LED strips on the back and ball trough and a couple extra spot lights, my PIN2DMD is installed, new beacon and LED bulb. Please don’t hate the orange Williams flipper bats but when I was rebuilding my flippers I noticed the Data East ones were cracked and I had new orange Williams bats - I could not justify a whole new order just for flipper bats when I had them just with a logo on them.
Wish me luck on the coin door re-wire I have to get this out of the living room to make room for the XMas tree, per my wife….
I clear coated the playfield and it looks good but if I was really going high end it should have had a new playfield but let’s face facts LW3 doesn’t hold value that high and I would have a hard time justifying it. Again…not perfect but pretty good…it has new legs, new side rails and lock down bars (same price to powder coat them of just buy new) and thanks to Pinball Plating for he chrome gun handle.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice work!

#1569 2 years ago

Wow where did you get all those yellow standing square targets?! First time in the thread that anyone has been able to track down a complete set!

#1570 2 years ago
Quoted from trueno92:

Wow where did you get all those yellow standing square targets?! First time in the thread that anyone has been able to track down a complete set!

Pinball resource has them - just email hem - they differ slightly from original that is why I had to ask the forum on how to wire them but they all work.

#1571 2 years ago

Looking great wamonkey !

#1572 2 years ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

So after help from multiple people in the forum I would call my LW3 largely done - I have a new coin door I have to re-wire then it will be 100%.
I am sure I over-spent on this machine but it looks good.
The flipper issue was the board like many said, must have been a bad fuse holder.
But I installed my mirror blades, extra LED strips on the back and ball trough and a couple extra spot lights, my PIN2DMD is installed, new beacon and LED bulb. Please don’t hate the orange Williams flipper bats but when I was rebuilding my flippers I noticed the Data East ones were cracked and I had new orange Williams bats - I could not justify a whole new order just for flipper bats when I had them just with a logo on them.
Wish me luck on the coin door re-wire I have to get this out of the living room to make room for the XMas tree, per my wife….
I clear coated the playfield and it looks good but if I was really going high end it should have had a new playfield but let’s face facts LW3 doesn’t hold value that high and I would have a hard time justifying it. Again…not perfect but pretty good…it has new legs, new side rails and lock down bars (same price to powder coat them of just buy new) and thanks to Pinball Plating for he chrome gun handle.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Looks awesome!! Nicely done. And wow, that gun came out really well. The little gun barrel shooter cover on the inside of the glass too. Sweet.

#1573 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Looks awesome!! Nicely done. And wow, that gun came out really well. The little gun barrel shooter cover on the inside of the glass too. Sweet.

I like the mirror blades, I need to get a set for Star Wars. Just getting around to doing the color DMD now, been busy.

#1574 2 years ago

Coin door - done - it all works - consider this one complete.... I could maybe chrome the shooter lane cover thing in the future but for now sometimes you just need to quit and say good is good enough.

#1575 2 years ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

Coin door - done - it all works - consider this one complete.... I could maybe chrome the shooter lane cover thing in the future but for now sometimes you just need to quit and say good is good enough.

It looks really good.

#1576 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Try this. Very helpful. I didn't create the original, but don't remember where I found it so can't give the proper credit.
EDIT: I am trying to add the Excel file that has these images plus the list of what type of bulb each of those is, but can't seem to add an Excel file here. Sorry!
Basically, for the backbox, it's all wedge base bulbs. The green circles are regular bulbs and the orange circles are the flashers.
For the playfield, same idea except the additional purple circles are for round base bulbs. Green is still wedge base and the orange circles are flashers.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I made that back in the day...

#1577 2 years ago

Looks awesome wamonkey great work! Mine was near completion but then I ran into a voltage issue on the power supply. I may need a new DMD long term, so I'm curious which color DMD you chose and if you are happy with it?

#1578 2 years ago
Quoted from STLOkie:

Looks awesome wamonkey great work! Mine was near completion but then I ran into a voltage issue on the power supply. I may need a new DMD long term, so I'm curious which color DMD you chose and if you are happy with it?

I bought a new power supply board just to update it all - I don't like to worry about issues down the line so I have to sell my old stuff. I don't like to do board work either and so many of the people who do it are booked up for a while so it may not be the cheapest way to do it but it is faster. I am not a purist when it comes to boards, newer is better in my opinion as electronics age. If someone wants to buy my old stuff let me know....I have a flipper board, power board and PPB that I will be selling.

I have a import coin door too....but really who would want that where it makes sense to ship it. But, if someone wants one - I got it.

I got the Pin2DMD for this game because it is half the price of a ColorDMD and the colorization is honestly - VERY GOOD (not true of all Pin2DMD games done). It looks great and honestly was pretty easy to set up if you have a power adapter for the game (Data East power adapter 5V- 12V - maybe $20 plus shipping makes it easy).

I am happy with it - it plays well - looks great! A person can always do more, I could have got a whole new playfield too but that may be the bridge too far. Mine turned out pretty good the few little issues I see likely no one else would see.

#1579 2 years ago

Does LW3 have any problems with ghosting? I’m adding new LED bulbs to the game.

#1580 2 years ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Does LW3 have any problems with ghosting? I’m adding new LED bulbs to the game.

Not in my opinion - with new flashers and LEDs throughout it looks great

#1581 2 years ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

Not in my opinion - with new flashers and LEDs throughout it looks great

Thank you

#1582 2 years ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Does LW3 have any problems with ghosting? I’m adding new LED bulbs to the game.

This could be something unique to just my game because of a wiring issue or mix of bulbs, but the three bulbs on top of the ramp entrance ghost on my game.

These are the "looping", "jackpot" and "victory" lights and they go red, green, yellow left to right. My red one on the left actually flickers in unison with the start button lol.

I only just noticed it the other day oddly enough and the reason was I had always had incandescent bulbs in there with the little rubber bulb covers on the ends. I tried the same wedge based LED's I have in all my other machines and realized they ghost.

Soon as a put an order in for bulbs that specifically include the non-ghosting resistor in them, I'll swap out and see if anything changes. Same thing happens on my ramp entrance on my Getaway. Pretty much no where else though, so maybe it's Gremlins and not Ghosts

#1583 2 years ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Does LW3 have any problems with ghosting? I’m adding new LED bulbs to the game.

I just put in all new Comet standard LEDs (NOT non-ghosting) and there is the slightest very dim flicker if you are looking right at the bulb in some cases but you can not see it when you are playing, especially on the inserts. I would recommend you save the money and go with normal LEDs.

#1584 2 years ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

I bought a new power supply board just to update it all - I don't like to worry about issues down the line so I have to sell my old stuff. I don't like to do board work either and so many of the people who do it are booked up for a while so it may not be the cheapest way to do it but it is faster. I am not a purist when it comes to boards, newer is better in my opinion as electronics age. If someone wants to buy my old stuff let me know....I have a flipper board, power board and PPB that I will be selling.
I have a import coin door too....but really who would want that where it makes sense to ship it. But, if someone wants one - I got it.
I got the Pin2DMD for this game because it is half the price of a ColorDMD and the colorization is honestly - VERY GOOD (not true of all Pin2DMD games done). It looks great and honestly was pretty easy to set up if you have a power adapter for the game (Data East power adapter 5V- 12V - maybe $20 plus shipping makes it easy).
I am happy with it - it plays well - looks great! A person can always do more, I could have got a whole new playfield too but that may be the bridge too far. Mine turned out pretty good the few little issues I see likely no one else would see.

It's funny because I thought the same way about boards and mine is also brand new. I didn't buy it but the guy I bought the table from just put in a brand new "Pin-tek" power supply. That appears to be what the issue was. I spoke to the team that made the board and they noted that the newer resisters and power supplies can have trouble with the high voltage the old Data East DMD draw. Basically old power supplies do better in their opinion, mainly because of the quality of the older resisters/capacitors. They said the older the DMD the quicker the problems can develop. Sadly my old power supply still "works" but is unreliable and just a real mess that isn't worth the cost to salvage. Thus I'm kicking around a new color DMD.

#1585 2 years ago
Quoted from STLOkie:

It's funny because I thought the same way about boards and mine is also brand new. I didn't buy it but the guy I bought the table from just put in a brand new "Pin-tek" power supply. That appears to be what the issue was. I spoke to the team that made the board and they noted that the newer resisters and power supplies can have trouble with the high voltage the old Data East DMD draw. Basically old power supplies do better in their opinion, mainly because of the quality of the older resisters/capacitors. They said the older the DMD the quicker the problems can develop. Sadly my old power supply still "works" but is unreliable and just a real mess that isn't worth the cost to salvage. Thus I'm kicking around a new color DMD.

Just get the PIN2DMD it’s a solid investment. Less then ColorDMD (which I love) I just think LW3 is a mid value pin and if you can save a few bucks do it. $100 bucks $100 there soon you have real money….

Just do it - you won’t regret it versus fixing your board issue a new DMD will give you the added benefit of color.

#1586 2 years ago

ON color DMDs, is there an option that allows you to display only in the "orange" plasma like color to give the look of the original DMD?

#1587 2 years ago

I don’t know about PIN2DMD but ColorDMD yes - you can be single color if you wanted to do it. I am sure PIN2DMD could as well but never did it.

Your a purist….which is understandable the DMD will give you options.

#1588 2 years ago
Quoted from STLOkie:

ON color DMDs, is there an option that allows you to display only in the "orange" plasma like color to give the look of the original DMD?

I think so, just don't install the color files and chose what color pallet you want.

Install guide is up!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gary-s-definitive-guide-to-installing-pin2dmd-evo-in-data-east

#1589 2 years ago

I have a question - in my game I have outlane post holes - is this supposed to be there on both sides?

post metal (resized).JPGpost metal (resized).JPG

#1590 2 years ago

I only have that out lane post on the right side.

#1591 2 years ago
Quoted from STLOkie:

I only have that out lane post on the right side.

Yeah mine had only one so I didn't install it, kind of wanted to know what was factory

I see a hole on the other side (left), like one can be installed there as well.

Thanks -

#1592 2 years ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

Yeah mine had only one so I didn't install it, kind of wanted to know what was factory
I see a hole on the other side (left), like one can be installed there as well.
Thanks -

Exactly the same on mine. Right side has it but left side doesn’t. The little pilot hole is there though on the left. Actually, my game has a similar small pilot hole for what could be a centre post between the flippers but I don’t think it was meant to have one of those either.

#1593 2 years ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Exactly the same on mine. Right side has it but left side doesn’t. The little pilot hole is there though on the left. Actually, my game has a similar small pilot hole for what could be a centre post between the flippers but I don’t think it was meant to have one of those either.

OK - strange they drilled the pilot hole and never populated it

#1594 2 years ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

OK - strange they drilled the pilot hole and never populated it

Very common on Data East pins.

#1595 2 years ago

I have a post on both sides, but only 1 allows a rubber to be added on.

Question: when I turn on the machine the DMD tells me to open the coin door before starting. Is this normal? Also, free play isn’t coming up under adjustments. Forgive me, I’m a little new to Data East.

E9A75DBD-45F8-4C3D-900B-BA9625605FB7 (resized).jpegE9A75DBD-45F8-4C3D-900B-BA9625605FB7 (resized).jpeg
#1596 2 years ago

Found free play. Just not sure why I have to open the door before I can start a game

#1597 2 years ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

Found free play. Just not sure why I have to open the door before I can start a game

The game has manual or auto score adjustments.
With manual you have to open the door to set new values/reset values.

#1598 2 years ago

Replace the batteries on the mpu. The game isnt saving your free play adjustment.

Sub in an nvram, restore defaults, change to freeplay and ur good to go.

#1599 2 years ago
Quoted from trueno92:

Replace the batteries on the mpu. The game isnt saving your free play adjustment.
Sub in an nvram, restore defaults, change to freeplay and ur good to go.

Yep, there was an issue with the AA batteries. Good call. The AAs were removed from the board and the holder was screwed into the sidewall. The screw was preventing one of the batteries from seating. I removed the screw and added Velcro. Problem solved back to normal. Thx.

#1600 2 years ago
Quoted from STLOkie:

ON color DMDs, is there an option that allows you to display only in the "orange" plasma like color to give the look of the original DMD?

Pin2DMD will perform like your requesting. Just don’t load the color pallet file. Then In the menu tweak the four color pallet to your preference.

If you want a factory DMD I have one in great shape. $150.

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