When that question is asked the answer I have seen is “buy one on Amazon”. So, I did, yesterday.

However if your globe is in tact I would try to replace the motor. If you decide to buy the Amazon one I will purchase your globe from you as mine is missing.

If it's an original part it's worth keeping even if it doesn't work. The original reflector arrangement is hard to find these days. The blue dome even harder. Seemed to be the first thing to break.

Hi everyone. I think I'm missing a piece in my game. Everytime the ball rolls in the #1 shot it gets stuck. Please let me know what goes here. Thanks

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You are missing the ball deflector. The manual calls it out as part number 535-6017-00 and with a quantity of 2, so if you want a comparison, you should also have the same one at the back of your #3 saucer.

They get mounted under those screw heads your ball is nestled up to.

I don't see this Lethal Weapon one specifically, but another about the same shape and size would work fine.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=ball+deflector

Here are a couple pics of the one in the #3 saucer. I don't seem to have any pictures of my #1 saucer handy.

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Thanks for the reply and pics.

Just noticed your DeLorean avatar… you have one of those too? You on DMCTalk?

Has anyone put in a pin2dmd in their machine? If so how do you like it? Issues? I'd love to add some color to mine for sure.

Considering Im the guy who colored it..... I might be biased.

there are a few small quirks with the chad code, but Im actively looking at them and plan to squash them.

I had one in mine for a while but moved it to a Sega Star Wars Trilogy. Malenkos color looked great. Wish I could figure out the coloring process. Have had a little luck. Put a LED color DMD in which also looks great.

Still looking for this part to my LW3. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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I have one in mine. Looks great althogh as @Malneko mentioned there are few small quirks.

Looks great compared to astandard DMD.

Good morning

I’m in the process of refurbishing my new to me LW3 (first real pin) My shooter coil has a plastic striker that strikes the ball sending it into play. Presently there is nothing protecting the plastic striker. However my rubber kit came with a shooter tip. If I press it on the plastic coil insert there will be some interference with the retraction of the plunger rod.

Do you guys have a shooter tip installed? If someone could post a picture I would be greatly appreciative.

Thanks

Welcome to the club!

There is no protective tip for the "striker". It is a coil arrangement and not a traditional spring loaded rod you might be thinking of.

As you are new to pinball it is always a great idea to download the manual. It's free. There are a lot of drawings and parts lists in there to help you understand what might be missing from your playfield and the basics of how they work.

Thanks for info. It didn’t look like the rubber tip would attach but since it came in the game specific rubber kit I was curious. I’m enjoying getting this game up to speed. It was totally inop when I purchased it. Now I can play! Waiting on new VUK coil and Q2,Q4 transistors.

I have a PIN2DMD in my LW3 and am very happy with it. The playfield and game itself has a lot of vibrant colours and the red, white, and blues are pretty dominant. The colouring Malenko did I think works really well with everything.

I don't run the Chad code so I'm not familiar with what these quirks are.

I have purchased rubber ring kits for all five of my games from a few different suppliers and my general impression is that what is included or not included in the kits is all over the place. I got thinking I would take the time to photograph my own games with plastics removed and other similar shots showing where things go and then list all of those rings to say exactly what they come with.

For whatever reason, all the original manuals didn't list every last rubber ring used in the game. Many of the tiny rings used on the little posts to keep the ball from getting stuck places aren't listed (on the Getaway for example). And on a game like Funhouse, you can adjust a post or two to make the outlane gaps bigger or smaller and this will actually change which size of rubber ring you use. Then on a game like World Poker Tour with the upper playfield, the sides are created by rubber rings stretched over posts and depending on which size you use and how tight you make them, you can dramatically change how "bouncy" and random that whole upper playfield is.

For now I kind of just accumulate rings of different sizes and use them when I need them.

Someone else on the thread already had this general idea and I thought it looked cool enough to add it to my LW3. A while back I found an old plastic toy toilet in a pile of old toys and decided to keep it aside in case I ever wanted to somehow use it in my LW3. Just recently my daughter randomly got some action figure happy meal toy that had a plastic piece molded to resemble an explosion. I added them together, stuck a light base in the exploding plastic and connected the light to the "Leo Getz" playfield light for the LW3 kickout hole so it's interactive. I used a #44 bayonet base so I can play around with different color/styles of lighting under the explosion. I'm very happy with the appearance!

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Wow, toilet toys never looked so good!!

Can someone tell me when the knocker is supposed to sound on this game? Does it do it for extra ball or match score? My knocker doesn't see to be sounding at all and I don't see a setting to turn it off anywhere in settings

I don't recall mine knocking. Is the knocker just the gun/plunger solenoid in this game?

You should hear it go whenever you earn a replay, special or match. I don't believe there is an adjustments setting to turn it on or off. You can change the replay prize to extra ball, and then that will often set-off the knocker when you get there.

The knocker itself is located on the cabinet floor just to the left of the big speaker. It bangs back against the small divider piece of wood behind the coin tray. Maybe one of the coil wires came off? You can try it in test mode under all coils test.

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Thanks I will have to check this out, I think mine is set to extra ball

Making progress.

I’ve got everything working at this time except the ball launch solenoid. It is locking on when I power up. I disconnected coil and installed new coil diode. For the time being I’m leaving coil disconnected. Replaced Q4 on PPB ( it was shorted on). The predrive transistors on MPU check good. They test identical to the others. The IC 7408 driving that coil circuit had been replaced by someone and a socket installed. I screwed a leg up getting the IC out and have a replacement being shipped. It’s a Chinese 7408. I hope they are legit. Also have a vintage version of 7408, SN74F08N enroute.

I’ve also got a test EPROM and logic probe on order.

My questions are

1. Can I test the solenoid output on CN12 for a short with controlling IC removed? It seems this may be a way to make sure Q27 and Q19 are not shorted. They test with a DMM identically to the other transistors in that area. I realize there will be no logic with IC removed but maybe a continuity test?

2. Reading a wiki guide online made me realize in the upper right of the MPU I have a special solenoid output area that is not used but may yet be shorted. If I determine a diode is shorted in this area can I just remove the diode or must it be replaced? I can’t find a chart showing which of these unused outputs may be tied to ball launch. Does anyone have a cheat sheet for the unused special solenoid circuit?

I finally figured out what was ailing my ball launch solenoid (locking on).

I removed the transistors on the MPU board again and still had continuity between ground and the header pin on CN12.

I removed the CN12 pin header and found a small amount of board erosion with gummy resin residue in the pits. Some alcohol clean up and voila! I replaced the pin header and now I’ve got a working LW3. Whew what a relief. I sure learned a lot about transistors during this process.

The circuit for that solenoid was shorting to ground under the header.

That's awesome!!! So it was just the header pins.

So that suspect ic was not the issue anyway!?

Correct. The IC was not an issue although it became one when I broke a pin after removing and replacing it several times. I really don't think the MPU transistors I replaced or the diode I replaced were issues either. They always tested good on the board and off the board. But...so many wiki guides and threads say replace these items if your main transistor on the PPB shorts. This lead me to keep going back to those items and treating them skeptically. I was just before unsoldering some of the "unused" special solenoid components because a great wiki guide said this is sometimes the most frustrating component to find faulty. However, I had purchased a logic probe and as I became more comfortable with that device there is no doubt it lead me to the faulty header pin. I could wiggle the pin and hear the logic probe's tone vary dramatically.

Today I conquered my last issues.

I repaired the left subway light and blue flasher in that area by finding an open resistor on the PPB (#3). I replaced it with #11 which is not used on our machines.

I repaired a column of lights. A control wire had broken off early in the string during my troubleshooting this morning. Whew! Not a board issue.

I added the plastic guard over the drop targets to prevent air balls and replaced the left saucer plastic that always breaks. Added plastic washer as guard.

Installed my magnetic Amazon police light by fabricating a light gauge steel circular plate which uses existing mounting holes/hardware.

I have ordered the components to add a Pin2DMD color DMD to the machine. Minimum order is five circuit boards (from Chinese fabricator) so I will have a few extra if any of you guys are interested in a color DMD in your machine just PM me and we can discuss it.

All that is left now are the cosmetics. I think I will enjoy the pin for a couple of months and wait on cooler weather before I start sanding the cabinet.

Ill snag a pin2dmd board to help even out your costs.

Share pics of your progress if you can, this is sounding swell.

In other news i just found out my lw3 i traded for last action hero has moved on and is in a new home with a happy owner.

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trueno92 I'll put your name on a board. That leaves one additional board I am willing to sell out of the five I have coming. The info below is from a PM I just sent out.

Total to USA ran $540 for five boards. LED panels were $48.30 for two panels which completes one 128 x 32 panel.

Total for a Data East 128 x 32 will be $156.30 plus a couple of connectors.

If you would like me to build it up and test then I will need you to make the $10 donation to Lucky1 and send me the activation key (wait until I get the boards working). I would rather do it this way as some people get boards that have issues that need to be resolved. I don't want you to receive a board from me that doesn't work. I will need to order more LED panels once I see that I can get a board functioning and like the results. The manufacture and shipping of the boards from China takes about six weeks according to the forum on VPUniverse.com. If you look at the forum site and go to the Pin2DMD threads you can learn a lot about what is going on with these boards. If you install Visual Pinball on your desktop you can play Lethal Weapon 3 (or any other colored game) with the free color DMD software. This will allow you to see the actual colorization as your real machine will display it during game play. For most actual pins the authors of the colorization require a $10 donation to receive the color software for your particular game so If this is the case with Lethal Weapon factor in another $10.

I am currently coloring Batman Forever and can attest that $10 is cheap for one of these project results. I have devoted two weeks of full time work to coloring the game and still have many issues with scenes that are not transitioning cleanly. ColorDMD gets $400 for a setup and that is probably a fair price considering all the work that goes into these projects. I do like the ColorDMD product having played it in gamerooms. Sometimes these hobby colorizations like my Batman Forever are not as "clean". However, the Lethal Weapon 3 colorization was well done and having played it on my VPin I can see no issues with the transitions and it is very well done. Malenko is the author and he is still active in the VPin community.

Your pic above looks like that pin is well lit up with LED's! What game will you be installing your Pin2DMD in if you get one of mine? Last Action Hero?

The three boards I am willing to pass along have been spoken for. Thanks guys. This will work out well for all of us. Don't send any money yet. I want to get the boards in my hand and get mine working before fully committing to shipping yours out.

Off topic but pin2dmd is getting very advanced. This is an example that is in progress for last action hero.

And really nice for nostalgic pixel art

My colorization is 100% free, donation is optional, and by donation, I mean you can send it to your charity of choice or me, I don't care.

files:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1kjLGkRyvr5g1ebCZEhV4Ps8bhCBfehuN

My lw 3 is acting strange during multi ball. I made a separate thread for it as to not clog this one up but figured it makes sense to share here. Here is a link to the thread. Basically the up kicker coil that kicks the ball into the plunger lane is firing for no reason when there is a ball in the outlane waiting to be plunged. It only does it when in multi ball and you quickly loose a ball or two and the game tries to save them for you so you get a 2nd chance at multi ball. the up up kicker fires twice, then after that the plunger fires the ball sitting in the shooter lane onto the field like it should of done all along. All switches work properly and appear to register fine. Game works 100% besides this and the only time it does this is during multi ball if you loose a ball right away.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lw3-ball-kicker-coil-acts-strangly-during-multi-ball-only-#post-6456792

Same things happens to mine. I've not been able to figure it out. All the switches are working. Only happens during multiball.

What firmware? Rom version is your games?

Interesting.... I was wondering if it had something to do with a programming error when making the game. I can check what revision LW I have and report back

I sent you a message

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Has anyone upgraded the speakers?
I did on my new sterns and it worked out great.
Wasn't sure if the Kenwood 4 inch kfc- 1066s would work.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079PLGKXB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_EKYDHNS89Z442C2TGX4A

Mine says display a 2.06 and cpu usa 2.08. Those are the revisions I have, I believe they are the newest versions available.

(whispering) pssst... hey... over here...
https://www.pinballcode.com/lw300

After looking at the updated code that chad posted and the list of things it changes, one of the things says it fixes an issue with the trough kicker firing during multi ball so definitly is a code issue.

So I updated the code to the 3.01 and the display to 3.00 and added malenkos latest version for the pin2dmd. What a huge improvement!! Not only is a bunch more stuff colorized then what I had originally (old color file installed) but the multi ball trough issue was fixed and the light show in attract mode is great. Thanks to both the gentleman responsible for these upgrades

Is anyone aware of a replacement source for the square rubber bumper on the apron? It is just below the Data East logo. Mine looks like a melted gummy bear.

Anyone able to get me some pictures of the power transformer wiring in the bottom of the cabinet - plugs and all?

I got an import with some questions to how it should be…

A bunch of pictures of the wiring in the bottom would be appreciated….

has anyone put speaker led's in? Could you share some images of what it looks like. Trying to decide if i want to do it.

I have some quirky stuff in my cabinet, not done by me, but I can take some pics. Let me know if you need anything different

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Thanks - that should do - just want to confirm my machine is right.

Mucho gracias

Can anyone confirm the wire colors on CN8 of the power driver board - the IPDB picture is so bad I cannot read the colors.

I think pin 8 is white / green and pin 6 is white / brown.

I want to do this right so I could use some help.

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Does this help? Zoom in at the top of the photo. It's the clearest photo of the wire colours I have (which they are all green wires with different striping on my game, no white wires connected there).

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Has anyone put a different set of playfield support brackets on? My LW3 ones are getting pretty rough and loose.
If so, which ones?
I was.looking at a set from pinballlife for sterns.

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