(Topic ID: 72256)

DataEast - Lethal Weapon 3 (lw3) club - Join if you have one or haf one...


By mima

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,251 posts
  • 176 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by trueno92
  • Topic is favorited by 94 Pinsiders

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Topic poll

“I am planing to make my self a set of repro plastics and are considering a making a very very limited run of sets. Are there any interest out there for this?”

  • I would run and grab me a set since there are no NOS made for this pin 45 votes
    42%
  • I would want to get a few single plastics, some are missing on my pin 43 votes
    40%
  • My pin has some beaten up plastics but I prefeer original plastics 3 votes
    3%
  • Nah, waste of moey. the pin plays well without / with warped and beaten up -plastics. 16 votes
    15%

(107 votes)

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There are 1251 posts in this topic. You are on page 25 of 26.
#1201 31 days ago

Power up woth all the lamps outputs, ppb board outputs disconnected.

If it blows with all the power supply's outputs disconnected it would be the bridge rectifier on PS.

#1202 31 days ago
Quoted from trueno92:

Power up woth all the lamps outputs, ppb board outputs disconnected.
If it blows with all the power supply's outputs disconnected it would be the bridge rectifier on PS.

Do I disconnect all of those and leave the cn1 connected?

#1203 31 days ago

Also disconnect c1

#1204 31 days ago
Quoted from trueno92:

Also disconnect c1

The fuse only blows with cn1 connected. If i disconnect it and power on the fuse does not blow with all the other connectors seated on the board. As soon as cn1 is connected it blows, disconnected it does not blow.

#1205 31 days ago

Ok good. Bridge rectifiers on the power should be good then.

Check c1 header and pin connectors. Problem is with high voltage section.

Also do a visual inspection on capacitor c3 on power board.

#1206 31 days ago
Quoted from trueno92:

Ok good. Bridge rectifiers on the power should be good then.
Check c1 header and pin connectors. Problem is with high voltage section.
Also do a visual inspection on capacitor c3 on power board.

Will do. I did remove the pb and looked at it, looking like it has been worked on before. Don't see much with the connector and the pins looked ok on the board, I'll check c3 and report back.

#1207 31 days ago

C3 has a habit of leaking and gravity pulls the goop down directpy over tje HV section.

Do a good visual arounr that left section below the heatsink.

Hoping u find somethiing suspect.

#1208 30 days ago
Quoted from trueno92:

C3 has a habit of leaking and gravity pulls the goop down directpy over tje HV section.
Do a good visual arounr that left section below the heatsink.
Hoping u find somethiing suspect.

It looks ok to me....

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#1209 30 days ago

So I never noticed it before but the high score scroll on Chads Roms dropped colors on subsequent scores. Multiball doesnt get triggered over top of "triball ready" when its relit with the timer, and sometimes the first truck crashing through multiball doesnt trigger correctly. Not sure if its because Im running the beta roms or not but I'll start working on fixes for those issues.

#1210 30 days ago

The Death Star is now operational. Thanks to all who chipped in to help. Everything came back to the PCB, I removed it and looked at it and saw work had been done to it. I also noticed burn spots on the back box that seemed on. Instead of firing the parts cannon at it I decided to let a professional look at it so I took it to Clay and he had it up and running in an hour. According to him the previous repairs were made by someone not fully qualified and turns out they did not trim the transistors they replaced and we're shorting against the back box. He had me up and running and so far this game is great.

On a side note my DMD is missing a line of text so if anyone is selling one please let me know.

#1211 30 days ago
Quoted from bowtech:

The Death Star is now operational. Thanks to all who chipped in to help. Everything came back to the PCB, I removed it and looked at it and saw work had been done to it. I also noticed burn spots on the back box that seemed on. Instead of firing the parts cannon at it I decided to let a professional look at it so I took it to Clay and he had it up and running in an hour. According to him the previous repairs were made by someone not fully qualified and turns out they did not trim the transistors they replaced and we're shorting against the back box. He had me up and running and so far this game is great.
On a side note my DMD is missing a line of text so if anyone is selling one please let me know.

Great Pin2dmd colorization is hand drawn by Malenko, if u can source a Pin2dmd display. Looks great, too

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#1212 30 days ago

Glad u got it sorted, cant believe it was shorting.. make sure those leads are cut.

#1213 30 days ago
Quoted from trueno92:

Glad u got it sorted, cant believe it was shorting.. make sure those leads are cut.

Clay removed all the misinstalled and shorted parts and got it up and running

#1214 24 days ago

So I've been working on this lethal weapon 3. I ordered a flipper rebuild kit from pinball life and the new plunger is an 1/8 inch longer than the ones in it now, making the range of motion shorter. Can anyone confirm if the range of motion on the flipper is correct? Left flipper is rebuilt, right flipper is with the parts that were in it.

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#1215 24 days ago
Quoted from Nelsonford218:

So I've been working on this lethal weapon 3. I ordered a flipper rebuild kit from pinball life and the new plunger is an 1/8 inch longer than the ones in it now, making the range of motion shorter. Can anyone confirm if the range of motion on the flipper is correct? Left flipper is rebuilt, right flipper is with the parts that were in it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Have a look at the grommet that should be in that flipper assembly and it is what the "elbow" if you will, rests up against. This will dictate the rest position of the flipper and then that will then dictate how far the flipper travels. I would want both flippers to be "even" more so than "correct".

Did you replace with new the coil stop in those flipper coils? You should see the end of the plunger bang into the coil stop before the plastic joint piece bangs into the lug end of the coil.

Post some pictures of underneath as it'll be easier to explain that way.

#1216 24 days ago
Quoted from Nelsonford218:

So I've been working on this lethal weapon 3. I ordered a flipper rebuild kit from pinball life and the new plunger is an 1/8 inch longer than the ones in it now, making the range of motion shorter. Can anyone confirm if the range of motion on the flipper is correct? Left flipper is rebuilt, right flipper is with the parts that were in it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

This makes me a little nervous as I just ordered that kit last night to go with some new coils.

#1217 24 days ago
Quoted from Nelsonford218:

So I've been working on this lethal weapon 3. I ordered a flipper rebuild kit from pinball life and the new plunger is an 1/8 inch longer than the ones in it now, making the range of motion shorter. Can anyone confirm if the range of motion on the flipper is correct? Left flipper is rebuilt, right flipper is with the parts that were in it.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Data East flipper plungers were the same length as Williams flippers plungers from 1990.
If they are using new style plungers that go to the new Stern style flipper assembly,
then the plungers are going to be a different length.

#1218 24 days ago

not sure if I should post this issue here..
I picked up a LW3 and have been fixing up electrical issues (molex connectors removed, wires soldered directly to board, missing lamps, etc) and have come across a problem I can't figure out. some of the controlled lamps on play field are lighting up different lamps DIMMLY when activated.when I do column by column, it seems fine, but row by row, it seems to also light a column 4 lamp, dimly. when I do individual lamps, it kind of seems all over the place, (see pic), but mainly also lighting column 4 individual lamps, that are in the same row as the chosen lamp, any single chosen lamp in column 4 lights only that lamp, making sense? so would column 4 transistor be bad? (Q68) on some chosen lamps, it's more than one extra lighting dimly, also, the row of resistors on left are getting extremely hot, but not the ones on the right of transistors. (see pics) a way to test transistors? thanks

PXL_20210206_230142744 (resized).jpgPXL_20210206_230241147.MP (resized).jpg
#1219 24 days ago

Well, got this lw3 put back together and all the boards back in after being sent off and gone through. Wasnt working at all when I got it. Turns on, and everything works except the flippers and ball launch. When you hit the launch or flipper buttons it puts a 2nd ball in the shutter lane. If you remove the balls in the shooter lane and hit the flipper buttons, it shoots the ball launch solenoid really softly! Any ideas? Wiring looks good and all fuses are right and good. Flipper board issue?

#1220 24 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Have a look at the grommet that should be in that flipper assembly and it is what the "elbow" if you will, rests up against. This will dictate the rest position of the flipper and then that will then dictate how far the flipper travels. I would want both flippers to be "even" more so than "correct".
Did you replace with new the coil stop in those flipper coils? You should see the end of the plunger bang into the coil stop before the plastic joint piece bangs into the lug end of the coil.
Post some pictures of underneath as it'll be easier to explain that way.

I see the grommet, but my issue is it seems like the flippers dont have much travel. They are adjust above the dots and they still dont flip up much. I just feel like they should have more range of motion and flip up higher

#1221 23 days ago
Quoted from Nelsonford218:

Well, got this lw3 put back together and all the boards back in after being sent off and gone through. Wasnt working at all when I got it. Turns on, and everything works except the flippers and ball launch. When you hit the launch or flipper buttons it puts a 2nd ball in the shutter lane. If you remove the balls in the shooter lane and hit the flipper buttons, it shoots the ball launch solenoid really softly! Any ideas? Wiring looks good and all fuses are right and good. Flipper board issue?

Make sure you are only using 3 balls. It's a 3 ball game. Any more will double launch.

#1222 23 days ago
Quoted from Nelsonford218:

I see the grommet, but my issue is it seems like the flippers dont have much travel. They are adjust above the dots and they still dont flip up much. I just feel like they should have more range of motion and flip up higher

Please post some photos of what your flipper assemblies look like from underneath.

#1223 23 days ago
Quoted from bowtech:

Make sure you are only using 3 balls. It's a 3 ball game. Any more will double launch.

Also check the ball trough switches. One out will often cause double load.

#1224 23 days ago

What he said.

Check diodes on the trough switches

#1225 22 days ago

Hi Guys. Just after a bit of advice if possible...

My LW3 got reset to factory settings yesterday, after I swapped the batteries for an NVRAM module. All fine, except for an annoying change that I can’t find mentioned anywhere in the manual.

Before the reset, the first 3 ramp shots lit extra ball, which I think is normal. Now after reset, the first 3 ramp shots give 3 million, then the next 2 ramp shots lite extra ball.

Does anyone know what adjustment might be causing this? Is it some kind of difficulty setting? It’s not a bit problem, but when you’re used to something, it’s a bit disconcerting!

Thanks

#1226 22 days ago
Quoted from Eld0rad0:

Hi Guys. Just after a bit of advice if possible...
My LW3 got reset to factory settings yesterday, after I swapped the batteries for an NVRAM module. All fine, except for an annoying change that I can’t find mentioned anywhere in the manual.
Before the reset, the first 3 ramp shots lit extra ball, which I think is normal. Now after reset, the first 3 ramp shots give 3 million, then the next 2 ramp shots lite extra ball.
Does anyone know what adjustment might be causing this? Is it some kind of difficulty setting? It’s not a bit problem, but when you’re used to something, it’s a bit disconcerting!
Thanks

As far as I know, there's not an exact setting for this. It is related to how well you're playing and have earned those extra balls. Get the extra ball more often and eventually it offers it to you less often. There are various settings for replays, extra balls and the like and it seems to come out of a combination of those. I've never figured out which one directly controls the ramp extra ball award. Mine had always given it out on the 3rd shot, then sometimes it went to the 7th and then the other day it came on the 17th. It seems to also change more depending on whether you're running Free Play or not.

#1227 22 days ago

The LW3 pop bumpers use coil AE-23-800 with the diode. I just noticed one of my three pop bumpers has a 23-700 coil with unknown condition/rating of diode. I was replacing the skirt on this one because it had a chip in it and that's when I noticed. This pop bumper never seemed to work very well and I thought it might have been the alignment of the skirt and how it was engaging the leaf switch underneath. I think it is more about this coil being the wrong one now. I could get it to pop occasionally when the ball hit it, but never repeatedly. The coil sleeve in it wasn't perfect looking, but didn't look too bad and slid in and out reasonably well. I'll replace this coil with the proper one, I just don't have one on hand right now, not until I put another parts order in.

How would you expect a 23-700 coil to behave in these pop bumpers when it was supposed to be a 23-800? The 700 coil is a little underpowered compared to the 800? Or is there more to it than just that?

#1228 22 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

The LW3 pop bumpers use coil AE-23-800 with the diode. I just noticed one of my three pop bumpers has a 23-700 coil with unknown condition/rating of diode. I was replacing the skirt on this one because it had a chip in it and that's when I noticed. This pop bumper never seemed to work very well and I thought it might have been the alignment of the skirt and how it was engaging the leaf switch underneath. I think it is more about this coil being the wrong one now. I could get it to pop occasionally when the ball hit it, but never repeatedly. The coil sleeve in it wasn't perfect looking, but didn't look too bad and slid in and out reasonably well. I'll replace this coil with the proper one, I just don't have one on hand right now, not until I put another parts order in.
How would you expect a 23-700 coil to behave in these pop bumpers when it was supposed to be a 23-800? The 700 coil is a little underpowered compared to the 800? Or is there more to it than just that?

23-700 is a more powerful coil.

#1229 21 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

As far as I know, there's not an exact setting for this. It is related to how well you're playing and have earned those extra balls. Get the extra ball more often and eventually it offers it to you less often. There are various settings for replays, extra balls and the like and it seems to come out of a combination of those. I've never figured out which one directly controls the ramp extra ball award. Mine had always given it out on the 3rd shot, then sometimes it went to the 7th and then the other day it came on the 17th. It seems to also change more depending on whether you're running Free Play or not.

Thanks for the advice. I'll take another look at the settings and play around with a few options. The percentage adjustments do confuse me. Not sure whether a high or a low percentage is more generous?

#1230 21 days ago
Quoted from Nelsonford218:

I see the grommet, but my issue is it seems like the flippers dont have much travel. They are adjust above the dots and they still dont flip up much. I just feel like they should have more range of motion and flip up higher

Any luck figuring this out?

#1231 18 days ago

Looks good in colour!!

#1232 17 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Looks good in colour!!

Looks amazing. Im so tempted.
Waiting for cpupons from pcbway....

#1233 17 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

Looks good in colour!!

That mine or the other one? And are you using chad's new code?

#1234 17 days ago
Quoted from Malenko:

That mine or the other one? And are you using chad's new code?

Hey dude, yes, this is yours. "Colorization by Malenko" comes up during attract mode. This is the 1.60 version I downloaded from the PinUniverse site. I saw mention of the 1.75 version, but couldn't find it anywhere. I think that one is still a work in progress, right?

I don't have the Chad code on my game. As far as I can tell, it is version 2.08. A few of the boards in my game got switched out to Rottendog ones and I think this would have been about the time updated ROM's got put in.

Is this 1.60 version the best one for me to be using with what I have? I noticed on a couple of the attract mode animations that the timing gets a little odd like when it is scrolling through the instructions screens. Like "shoot LW1, 2, 3" or "pull the trigger to shoot bad guys" or "use the flipper buttons if you get in a fight". I can try and take a video of what it is doing if you'd like?

#1235 17 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

I saw mention of the 1.75 version, but couldn't find it anywhere.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B9cWp45XToh2d2ZGUWk5NGE4eDQ

files are there^

1.75 is compatible with all rom versions, there is a slight issue with the new high score scroll with the chad roms, theres a blue shadow I need to take care of.
This version also replaces tri-ball with multiball on all versions.

#1236 17 days ago
Quoted from Malenko:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B9cWp45XToh2d2ZGUWk5NGE4eDQ
files are there^
1.75 is compatible with all rom versions, there is a slight issue with the new high score scroll with the chad roms, theres a blue shadow I need to take care of.
This version also replaces tri-ball with multiball on all versions.

Alexrogan84, can you make a video capturing your play thru of malenkos work? The changelog from 1.60-1.75 looks substantial

#1237 17 days ago

Mine arrived a couple days ago, shipped from Montana to Vegas. Took about 3 weeks, but arrived in perfect order.

I’m loving the game! It’s my second pin. First Is an old Gottlieb wood rail.

#1238 17 days ago

Is it hard to find games locally in vega? Ive always wondered about shipping these but it seems a very accepted option on pinside

#1239 10 days ago

I saw this plastic on ebay and couldn't find it on my machine. Anybody know where it goes? ebay.com link: Data East Lethal Weapon 3 pinball machine center plastic always broken

#1240 10 days ago

Yep, It sits over the center drop targets

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#1241 10 days ago
Quoted from Don44:

I saw this plastic on ebay and couldn't find it on my machine. Anybody know where it goes? ebay.com link: Data East Lethal Weapon 3 pinball machine center plastic always broken

Just FYI, the ones on Ebay are reproductions regardless of what the ads imply and only fair quality at that.

#1242 10 days ago

Ok, thanks. It seems as though the reproduction stickers for the drop are of poor quality as well.

#1243 10 days ago
Quoted from Don44:

Ok, thanks. It seems as though the reproduction stickers for the drop are of poor quality as well.

I had fun making my own.

If you have no center plastic at all, better than nothing for what it's worth. I doubt average person playing would notice, side by side very notable though. Rough cut, grainy print and slightly faded looking.

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#1244 10 days ago

So I'm trying to get to that 6.5/7 degree angle and the levelers on the back legs are way out to just get it to 6. It makes the game feel wobbly. My buddies de tmntis the same way. Is this correct? Just seems odd.

#1245 10 days ago
Quoted from bowtech:

So I'm trying to get to that 6.5/7 degree angle and the levelers on the back legs are way out to just get it to 6. It makes the game feel wobbly. My buddies de tmntis the same way. Is this correct? Just seems odd.

I agree this seems odd, yet mine is pretty much the same. I don't feel like it's wobbly, but the rear levellers are almost entirely out and the fronts are pretty much entirely in... and still it seems to only get it to 6 degrees or a little bit more.

I'm interested in what other LW3 owners have to say here too.

#1246 10 days ago
Quoted from AlexRogan84:

I agree this seems odd, yet mine is pretty much the same. I don't feel like it's wobbly, but the rear levellers are almost entirely out and the fronts are pretty much entirely in... and still it seems to only get it to 6 degrees or a little bit more.
I'm interested in what other LW3 owners have to say here too.

Just seems like it's too far out. My Stern's are definitely not that far out to get to 6.5 degree

#1247 10 days ago

I feel like this is a Data East thing. Both my LW3 and Star Wars are like this. At one point I had a 2x4 under the rear legs of star wars but that was a bit too much.

#1248 9 days ago
Quoted from bowtech:

Just seems like it's too far out. My Stern's are definitely not that far out to get to 6.5 degree

It could be related to some kind of manufacturing issue where the holes and brackets inset in the cabinet weren't always put at the same height.

Until I got my Stern World Poker Tour, I hadn't realized how much different the hole location on the rear of the cabinet is compared to the front. And it was because in the WPT manual, it specifically says to start by having all four leg levellers in all the way and that should give you the right 6.5 angle right off the bat. When you know the legs are all the same length, you see how they did this by having the top of the rear legs mount lower down than the front.

I think you're right about it being a Data East thing and it's not as dramatic on Williams or Bally of the same era.

#1249 8 days ago
Quoted from bowtech:

So I'm trying to get to that 6.5/7 degree angle and the levelers on the back legs are way out to just get it to 6. It makes the game feel wobbly. My buddies de tmntis the same way. Is this correct? Just seems odd.

My DE Hook and DE Simpsons are like this, I even ended up putting longer leg levelers on my Hook in the back because they were spun almost all the way out. For some odd reason my Lethal Weapon is not like this. Could be the way the floor slopes in my basement, LW3 is on a different wall than my other DE games

#1250 7 days ago

My LW3 has a red stern DMD installed. Whatever is supposed to be on the top line actually shows up on the bottom line. Other than that everything displays fine. Any idea why that could be?

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