Did you wire the coil correctly with respect to the banded side of the diode (if it has one)?

See the little black cylinder thing between the wiring terminals? That's the diode. It has a gray band on the left. If you open up the playfield, you'll likely see some other coils that have a yellow wire with purple stripes, just like the yellow/purple wire going to the knocker coil. Note which side of the diode the yellow/purple wire goes to--it'll be either on the side of the diode with the gray band or the un-banded side. You want to make sure the wiring on the knocker coil is oriented the same way. In fact, if you find another coil with the yellow/purple wire, snap a pic of it and post it here.

I think the wiring was put on the wrong sides of the diode on the coil, the more I'm looking into this. Power should attach to banded side of the diode, ground on non-banded side. It looks like they're reversed to me. You'll have to check another coil under the playfield with a yellow-purple wire (as I'm *pretty sure* that's the DC power supply for many of the coils) and compare how it's wired in relation to the diode. If you find all the other yellow-purple wires are on the banded side of the diode on the other coils, then we know it was wired wrong. If it was wired wrong, it most likely fried the transistor on the driver board.

Agree 100% here. The yellow/purple wire is definitely the power wire. You can tell just by the gauge (thicker wire is almost always the power). Banded side of the diode should be soldered to the power side to dampen the EMF spike that occurs when the coil is deactivated. You most likely blew your transistor as well. Might want to check the pre-driving transistor while you're at it.

Since you had the coil wired in incorrectly, I think you may have fried that transistor, and now once you flip the game on, the fried transistor locks the coil and burns up the fuse.

Agree also possible that you ruined the new coil if you have a meter check it before fixing the transistor. Plenty of YouTube videos on how to check a pinball coil if you want some help.

Set it to ohms/resistance. One black lead on one side, red lead on the other. Anything under 2 ohms is bad.

It sure sounds like it. Just to be double-sure, test it out of circuit buy desoldering a wire.

Cut one side of the diode off the coil as it maybe the only thing bad. Retest the coil.

With a good fuse in place, does the coil activate immediately when you turn on the game or start a game? If yes, likely a blown transistor.

Tell tale sign the coil is locked on. You should really investigate your driver board after you determine the condition of that coil (I'm also betting it's probably roasted) But still follow Grumpy's excellent advice and clip the diode to make sure that it also doesn't have a dead short. I'm willing to bet you have a fried transistor. If you have the manual, it should tell you what transistor drives the knocker.

Does the plunger move freely by hand within the coil? If not, it could be locking on and you don't here the "knock" because the plunger isn't moving thru the coil normally.

If im reading the manual right, check q4 transistor. Its a tip36c. I am pretty sure that is the knocker driver

Yep, Q4 is for the knocker.