Data East TFTC Tales From The Crypt Diverter Problems

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#1 10 years ago

OP

DAD

toddsolus

Pinside+ Frequent

Salt Lake City, UT

11y 73,300 1,137 3 32

So
I am now trying to fix the diverter on my tftc. I'm not sure I will keep it functional due to the elimination of that right orbit but I want to at least get it working.

I have changed the connector on the board ,reviving my shaker in the process I just changed the solenoid. It was totally smoked leaving smoke on the underside of the playfield. I have included a pic of the solenoid. I was also wondering what the melted mess is inside the solenoid. I also had to trim the end of the sleeve to make it fit in the spot. is this normal? do you usually have to trim off the end of the solenoid sleeve? It is def the right part. the same one as the fried one.

this solenoid change did not bring back the diverter though so I am suspecting there is further damage "upstream" can anyone give me an idea of what to look for next?

photo(2).JPG photo(3).JPG

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#2 10 years ago

GPD

KoolFingers

Pinside member

Youngstown, OH

11y 68,800 1,146 7 7

I would say the melted stuff inside the coil is the sleeve. I replaced my sleeve but didn't need to trim anything, but trimming a sleeve is ok afaik.
Did you check the manual to be sure it was the right coil? Soneone may have replace it with the wrong one, just double checking here.

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#3 10 years ago

OP

DAD

toddsolus

Pinside+ Frequent

Salt Lake City, UT

11y 73,300 1,137 3 32

yes I replaced it with the part # from the manual. the sleeve had a bit of length after the sleeve stop though, i assume this coil can be used for other things where that flange is usefull.

this is the part i used: http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=+Stern+27-1400+

it came with a "flanged" sleeve which i didn't need
but this is the replacement part according to the manual

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#4 10 years ago

GPD

KoolFingers

Pinside member

Youngstown, OH

11y 68,800 1,146 7 7

Ya that's the right part. Not sure way the sleeve is longer but you may be right that it's for another use. Have you checked the the voltage going to the coil to see what you have coming in, if anything?

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#5 10 years ago

OP

DAD

toddsolus

Pinside+ Frequent

Salt Lake City, UT

11y 73,300 1,137 3 32

yes there is voltage coming through on both sides....the sleeve isn't longer just the flange on the back..that is what i had to cut off...
detail.JPG

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#6 10 years ago

OP

DAD

toddsolus

Pinside+ Frequent

Salt Lake City, UT

11y 73,300 1,137 3 32

this is what i needed

detail-1.jpg

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#7 10 years ago

GPD

KoolFingers

Pinside member

Youngstown, OH

11y 68,800 1,146 7 7

Don't know why I wasn't seeing "flanged".

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#8 10 years ago

BED

smokey_789

Inactive member

Greenville, OH

11y 50,150 1,642 11

So you were able to get the old melted sleeve out and a new one in, right? And you checked voltage to it and the voltage was O.K. Did you check the resistance? Anything less than 2 Ohms is a dead short and that coil is toast. If Ohms are OK, you most likely fried the transistor on the driver board that drives it.

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#9 10 years ago

GPD

KoolFingers

Pinside member

Youngstown, OH

11y 68,800 1,146 7 7

Quoted from smokey_789:
So you were able to get the old melted sleeve out and a new one in, right? And you checked voltage to it and the voltage was O.K. Did you check the resistance? Anything less than 2 Ohms is a dead short and that coil is toast. If Ohms are OK, you most likely fried the transistor on the driver board that drives it.

To my understanding he replaced the coil with a new one.

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#10 10 years ago

OP

DAD

toddsolus

Pinside+ Frequent

Salt Lake City, UT

11y 73,300 1,137 3 32

yes i replaced the coil and the sleeve came with the new coil....I am trying to figure out which transistor needs to be changed on the board.

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#11 10 years ago

OP

DAD

toddsolus

Pinside+ Frequent

Salt Lake City, UT

11y 73,300 1,137 3 32

here is the area on the driver board with the connector I changed...do you know which transistor it is? keep in mind the only problem is the diverter coil.

photo(1).JPG photo(2).JPG

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#12 10 years ago

GPD

KoolFingers

Pinside member

Youngstown, OH

11y 68,800 1,146 7 7

I hope someone with more knowledge will jump in here and tell you what you need, but I would start checking the TIP122/102s. Then the 2N4401, Q15-Q22.

I'm no expert and it's just my 2 credits.

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#13 10 years ago

OP

DAD

toddsolus

Pinside+ Frequent

Salt Lake City, UT

11y 73,300 1,137 3 32

i suspect q22/ and tip 102/30 that is the color wire that goes to the diverter coil

what about the r66-73? i'd

how do i test these? on the Mmeter? what voltage should they read?

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#14 10 years ago

GPD

KoolFingers

Pinside member

Youngstown, OH

11y 68,800 1,146 7 7

OP
Quoted from toddsolus:
what about the r66-73? i'd
how do i test these? on the Mmeter? what voltage should they read?

DMM in ohms not voltage but check the other two first as I mentioned.

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#15 10 years ago

OP

DAD

toddsolus

Pinside+ Frequent

Salt Lake City, UT

11y 73,300 1,137 3 32

what should the impedance be then?

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#16 10 years ago

GPD

KoolFingers

Pinside member

Youngstown, OH

11y 68,800 1,146 7 7

TIP122/102 transistors:
Put the DMM (digital multi meter) on ohms (buzz tone).
Put one lead on the ground strap in the backbox.
Touch the other lead to the metal tab on the TIP122/102 transistors.
If zero ohms (buzz) is shown, the transistor is bad! (shorted on).

2N4401: (not a 100% sure on this)
Red lead on the middle leg, black on each of the outer legs you should get around 600-800 mA.

Resistors:
66-73 should be 68 ohms +-5% if I remember my color code.

0

#17 10 years ago

OP

DAD

toddsolus

Pinside+ Frequent

Salt Lake City, UT

11y 73,300 1,137 3 32

changed the transistor on this and the diverter works great now. It was quite a mess but with the invaluable help of Pinsider, Donjagra TFTC is now 100%

now if I can just make the gravestone trigger more sensitive....