First thing download the manual at Ipdb.com.

Check the fuses with a DMM.

Bulbs work?

Check to make sure all the ribbon cables and connectors are seated correctly. Ribbon cables could be backwards. Check for burned pins on the connectors. Replace those.

Those are the easy things to check first.

Also search the threads, there's a ton of info on the subject.

Look for brown or black burn marks on the connector.

Also make sure fuses are correct size or it may happen again after you fix the problem.

This is a great resource

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index2.htm#reset

Connectors are easy to replace so it can't hurt. I would also check to make sure the voltages going to that connector are correct. Pinballlife or Marco will have a connector. Make sure to get the wire insertion tool or just get a kit.

I would say no but can't hurt to clean that off. Contact cleaner and a qtip should do it.

Can you post a picture of all the boards with the game turned on? Hope you can also get a picture of the ribbon cables connected to the new DMD controller board.

Did you measure the voltages from the power supply board?

Try swapping the large ribbon cable around 180 degrees at J1 of the DMD controller board only so the red stripe (pin 1) is on the right instead of the left.

Considering you two problems, the bridge rectifier that supplies your DC voltage to the controlled lamp circuit could be bad. Have you measured it's DC output voltage with the game on.
Did you check the fuse (I believe 5amp) that corresponds to this bridge with a voltage meter?

The 2 fuses, and 2 bridges I'm referring too are located directly above the large blue filter capacitor. Your manual will direct you to the one used to supply the controlled lamps, based on DC output wire color.

I see on your power supply when I zoom up on it, it looks like C3 (47uf 63 volt) has the top buldged out. Can you feel if it is or if it is flat? If buldged, it would need to be replaced. Also at the same time, I would change C2 (100uf 25V or 50V) as well as this one is prone to failure due to being exposed to high heat all during its life and can cause low or loss of 5 volts, which will give either resets or not power up the game at all.

So if the ribbon cable being swapped around did not fix it, then this C3 likely is the cause. To verify, you need to measure the voltages going to the DMD. C3 keeps the 62 volts stable for the DMD to function. This would be the next suspected thing to check along with the -112v and -100v coming out of the power supply.

Are you sure you all getting all the voltages at dmd? -110v -98v +68v +5v +12v

Andrew

If your pulling the power supply to change caps, change them all.

Also can you snap a picture of the playfield with the game turned on?
Just want to make sure there is no confusion between GI lamps and the controlled insert (feature) lamps.

As an alternative to replacing caps, X pin makes an excellent drop in replacement

http://xpinpinball.com/shop/product/xpin-xp-sghv-power-supply-data-east-games

You can always repair the old one and sell or keep as a backup

Hmmm....So on the back of the machine and the inside of the cabinet on the right, there is a s/n label. Is it labeled 220v or 110v ? Also disconnect the wiring at the transformer to make sure there are no burnt pins.DE input wiring.jpg

If labeled 220V, then we need to see if it is wiring up correctly for 110v at the transformer.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Voltage_Selection_Jumper_Pinout

4.7.1 Voltage Selection Jumper Pinout

The 9 pin connectors used are Molex 19-09-2099 (butterfly connection w/jumpers) and Molex 19-09-1099 (connection on transformer pigtail).

9 Pin DE Transformer Power Configuration, configured for US 115V systems.

Jumper settings for 115V should be as follows:
Pin 1 - black - 115v "hot" input
Pin 7 - white - 115v "neutral" input
Pins 2 and 3 jumped together
Pins 8 and 9 jumped together

If it is wired correctly for 120 volts, you really need to measure all the voltages so we can help you along further. Otherwise, we are guessing where the problem could be.

you cannot reseat a bridge rectifier

Which connector? Any burnt pins in the female wired connector? I hope you replaced them.

The GI power cones in on CN9 on the power supply and then goes out on CN8 to the backbox and the playfield. All are out in both areas?

How did you check power to the bulbs? All the GI are out? Usually it's a short causing a fuse to blow. Pull each GI fuse and double check it. I've had fuses that check out ok until I pull them out of the holder and meter them. If you find a blown fuse check the coresponding GI sockets carefully one by one. Could be something touching, bent socket lead, something fell into the socket causing a short, etc.