I worked on enough of the DE 128x32 DMD games to say 4.8v at the DMD controller board is ok as well as 4.94v on the power supply. Even with that said, at some point, I suggest all the electrolytic capacitors be replaced as they tend to fail after this long period. Caution is needed to remove them as they are difficult to remove.

Is the game booting up? You can see the left 2 red LEDs are lit on the MPU? Game is in attract mode with the controlled insert lamps cycling?

If not, test these 2 fuses to be sure they are not blown.
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Can you count the flashes? Looks like your MPU has an error. It should repeat after a pause.

Post pictures of both MPU boards. There is a jumper change needed if going from a single EPROM to 2 and vice versa.

MPU board, as that is where the boot up issue is. Simpsons MPU uses 2 game EPROMs and SW uses 1 game EPROM. Junper must be set properly for each game.

You need to change the jumper on the MPU if you install the Simpsons EPROMs when you move it over from SW.

Still would just like to look over the MPU.

Ok Got it. So your Simpsons board used to work as well?

You are going to have to post a lot of pictures, especially the wiring at the transformer and the boards with the game turned on.

You will not need the -112v, -100v, nor the 62v as the ColorDMD will not use those voltages. In any case, how are you measuring the voltage? The ground braid cannot be used in that case as a ground to measure AC voltages.

Which eventually turns into 12Vdc, which 5Vdc taps off. Easier just to measure the dc output voltages on the power supply. If you have those, your 9Vac is good.

Black-red wire is correct, but you have to use the white wire. The gray wire is separated from the 100Vac. Again, the ColorDMD will not use that voltage.
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The voltages look good. I had machines operate fine with 4.90v for the 5v.

Time to move on to other possibilities.

Is your attract mode lighting working? If not, open the coin door for a couple of seconds and then close it. It might be stuck in the "open coin door" message because of batteries being removed.

Please post a picture of where the other end of the ColorDMD power cable is plugged into. Also, are there any LEDs lit on the ColorDMD board, when you turn on the game?

So...not the power supply.

Please post a picture of where the other end of the ColorDMD power cable is plugged into (should be at the bottom left side of the power supply). Also, are there any LEDs lit on the ColorDMD board, when you turn on the game?

I think based on what you have typed here, you should reflash your display. Make sure you download it from this Chroma list I have linked since all LED ColorDMD use the Chroma board.

https://colordmd.com/support_firmware_chroma.html

You have SIGMA 3.3 installed on the display, which is a single color ROM. You need erase anything on your flash drive named chroma.rom as well as anything on your PC where you downloaded it to originally. If you download to either a second time, it calls the new file chroma(1).rom. It has to be only chroma.rom and should be SW 3.2 on the screen after loading.

You are getting close now. Just need the right file to load.

That is great. Just as the note you found about the video being an issue is the next thing to dig into.

Next, need to be sure you have 5VDC (4.8 to 5.2v) getting to the DMD controller board. Use you voltmeter and put the red and black leads on both ends of any of these yellow capacitors. You only need to measure across one of them. Without power on this board, you definitely will not have any video getting to the ColorDMD.

If you don't have 5V, then the J2 connector male pins need to be resoldered on the underside of the board.
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I do not see this as a power supply issue since I had mentioned that a few times in the thread.

I know I have issues with my wide ribbon cable on my LAH. I can wiggle the ribbon at the one end of the DMD controller board and I see it flake out, but I have to cycle power again for it to display correctly. Try and turn your ribbon cable the other way around at the DMD controller and at the MPU board. Only this ribbon cable.

Not a power supply issue. You have good, in spec, voltages on the DMD controller board and at the ColorDMD.

I can see MPU as the highly potential issue at this point. You can send it to ChrisHibler to test and repair.

Simpsons MPU can be moved over to confirm it, but as I had posted, you have to change the one jumper to match up with the game ROMs used.

I definitely would move the ground braid wire off the DMD Controller board since there is not an exposed ground. Move it to under the post sleeve so that it is making contact directly to the exposed ground area of the ColorDMD. That way the ColorDMD has a common ground to the backbox ground.

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Yes. No ribbon cable=no display. Data has to come from the MPU to tell the DMD controller to display something.

D4 is not a game ROM, it is a RAM. It stays in the board no matter what game it is in.

Must remove game ROMs at B4 and C4 out of the Simpsons board and install the C4 game ROM from Star Wars into the Simpson board. Then you also have to unsolder Jumper J4 and install it into J3 so it can be used in Star Wars.

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Please move the ground strap mentioned on post #91 first. Someone had posted that fixed their issue on another thread I recall reading 5 months ago.

I don't guarantee that, but that is where it should be connected anyway.

@dumbass, can you help here? I am going to be busy the next couple of days and will not have a chance to dig in to help deeper on this one.