(Topic ID: 247584)

data east star wars dead dmd Need Advice Please


By jgadzia

3 months ago



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  • 105 posts
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  • Latest reply 27 days ago by jgadzia
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There are 105 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 3 months ago

ok have been restoring my data east star wars and got everything plugged up but the dmd is completely dead, discovered the voltages were out on my power driver board with a blown fuse. fixed those issues and DMD is still dead as a doornail. Figured maybe the DMD just went bad, wanted to go to color so bought a colordmd. Hooked it up, still dead as a doornail( this also bypasses the power driver board except for the 5v which i checked is present, also DMD display works when i go into menu mode on colordmd board. Ok so i figure crap the DMD driver board must have blown something. Went ahead and bought a new DMD driver board and installed tonight. Still Dead as a doornail. Replugged in all cords. switched the data cable from the MPU to the DMD board with a known working cable, and still no go. I am guessing at this point something has gone bad on the MPU board. I have done some circuit board work. I just dont know enough about these boards about what to check first. Would really appreciate some help if anyone knows.....

#2 3 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

ok have been restoring my data east star wars and got everything plugged up but the dmd is completely dead, discovered the voltages were out on my power driver board with a blown fuse. fixed those issues and DMD is still dead as a doornail. Figured maybe the DMD just went bad, wanted to go to color so bought a colordmd. Hooked it up, still dead as a doornail( this also bypasses the power driver board except for the 5v which i checked is present, also DMD display works when i go into menu mode on colordmd board. Ok so i figure crap the DMD driver board must have blown something. Went ahead and bought a new DMD driver board and installed tonight. Still Dead as a doornail. Replugged in all cords. switched the data cable from the MPU to the DMD board with a known working cable, and still no go. I am guessing at this point something has gone bad on the MPU board. I have done some circuit board work. I just dont know enough about these boards about what to check first. Would really appreciate some help if anyone knows.....

bump

#3 3 months ago

I just diagnosed a similar issue on a large Sega DMD, can't remember if yours will also have it, but look for an unhooked ground strap that goes on a corner screw down

#4 3 months ago
Quoted from dc2010:

I just diagnosed a similar issue on a large Sega DMD, can't remember if yours will also have it, but look for an unhooked ground strap that goes on a corner screw down

are you talkin on the dmd board?

#5 3 months ago

On the DMD driver board

#6 3 months ago

yes i checked that. in fact the rottendog boards dont even have this connected to ground. but i went back and threw my old board in and made sure it was connected to ground and still got nothing. At this point i have to believe that it is a problem with the signal out of the mpu because i have replaced EVERYTHING else. I have a logic probe, but not sure what readings i should be getting on each pin out of the MPU. Does anyone know where i can find this info?

#7 3 months ago

Well your not alone with this issue, you probably already checked but could the 14 pin ribbon be plugged in upside down? Verify that the red stripe is on pin 1 on both connectors

#8 3 months ago

yes i did this as well. and i have a data east simpsons which uses the same cable. i swapped that out and still no go.

#9 3 months ago

When the dmd went out on my DE JP, I traced it down to a bad 3 pin connector for the 5v.

#10 3 months ago
Quoted from jab:

When the dmd went out on my DE JP, I traced it down to a bad 3 pin connector for the 5v.

Possible, it could be a board issue too

#11 3 months ago
Quoted from dc2010:

Possible, it could be a board issue too

would a bad eprom give no display. is there anyway to check an eprom?

#12 3 months ago

Iirc , when you buy colordmd ROMs , you also get the eproms? , If so do you still have the old ones?

#13 3 months ago
Quoted from dc2010:

Iirc , when you buy colordmd ROMs , you also get the eproms? , If so do you still have the old ones?

ColorDMDs are downloaded via a thumb drive from the website. They rely on the original eproms to work. It simply "colors" the code.

Interesting to see how this turns out.
You should still get the code version displayed before it goes blank if the MPU is not sending signals.

#14 3 months ago
Quoted from GLSP3022:

ColorDMDs are downloaded via a thumb drive from the website. They rely on the original eproms to work. It simply "colors" the code.
Interesting to see how this turns out.
You should still get the code version displayed before it goes blank if the MPU is not sending signals.

i never get anything. solid black the whole time. Does that mean it most likely the mpu?

#15 3 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

i never get anything. solid black the whole time. Does that mean it most likely the mpu?

One of two things, really, I know you've replaced boards, but let's step back, I'm order for the DMD to display it needs communication from the driver board,

The board has been replaced, in order for it to relay the to the DMD, it needs a stable and solid 5v, have you done the service bulletin 106 ? If so you should read 5.03 v with dmm, I

If you are getting 5v at the controller board (red pin 1, black pin 3) then

The controller has the 20 pin from mpu to driver board and 14pin from driver to display,

Since you have verified correct orientation and swapped with known 14pin, look at the 20pin, test the Simpsons ribbon cable,

If that doesn't work, look at your grounds, is it connected? Is it corroded? Damaged?

If all the above checks out, then test mpu theory using a know good mpu , if it works the board has an chip issue

If it still doesn't, look at the 5v line again

#16 3 months ago

I pulled the MPU to DMD cable on my JP lost world to see what happens. Even without connection to the MPU, it still shows the name of the game before going blank.
If you're getting nothing, I'm guessing small cable or 5v power to the driver board.

#17 3 months ago
Quoted from GLSP3022:

I pulled the MPU to DMD cable on my JP lost world to see what happens. Even without connection to the MPU, it still shows the name of the game before going blank.
If you're getting nothing, I'm guessing small cable or 5v power to the driver board.

Exactly!

#18 3 months ago
Quoted from dc2010:

One of two things, really, I know you've replaced boards, but let's step back, I'm order for the DMD to display it needs communication from the driver board,
The board has been replaced, in order for it to relay the to the DMD, it needs a stable and solid 5v, have you done the service bulletin 106 ? If so you should read 5.03 v with dmm, I
If you are getting 5v at the controller board (red pin 1, black pin 3) then
The controller has the 20 pin from mpu to driver board and 14pin from driver to display,
Since you have verified correct orientation and swapped with known 14pin, look at the 20pin, test the Simpsons ribbon cable,
If that doesn't work, look at your grounds, is it connected? Is it corroded? Damaged?
If all the above checks out, then test mpu theory using a know good mpu , if it works the board has an chip issue
If it still doesn't, look at the 5v line again

First of all, I really want to thank you guys for taking the time to help me. This has been driving me nuts so much so, it is screwing up my sleep

i measured at the 5 v and i am getting +4.95 volts (is that enough?)

i dont know what you mean by service bulletin 106?

i pulled the 20 pin cable from my simpsons and plugged it into star wars and no go. I took the star wars cable and plugged it into my simpsons and it worked fine. so 20 pin cable is good.

I pulled the 14 pin working cable from my twilight zone and plugged it from dmd board to colordmd and still no dmd display
so i have ruled out the 14 pin cable as the fault as well.

i did take my logic probe to the 14 pins coming out of the dmd board and got the following:

1L 2L
3L 4L
5H 6L
7L 8L
9H 10L
11L 12L
13 14

I got no signal on 13 or 14. Is that normal?

since i dont have even the boot screen. I am starting to think maybe the rom is bad. It would be interesting if someone could pull there dmd rom and see if you get the black screen of death?

Again thanks for the help!

#19 3 months ago

Can you post some pics of your set up? The back of the colorDMD, the driver, power supply board. I want a visual look at everything.
BTW, I'm dealing with the same issue on a large DMD Frankenstein. Have mine narrowed down to the 14 pin cable or grounding issue.

#20 3 months ago

I also have noticed the rottendog board has no outside ground connection

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#21 3 months ago

Have you tried flipping just one end of the 14 pin cable, not both ends?
It wont hurt anything.

#22 3 months ago

My previous reply stated a solid 5V absolutely nothing less. Board is very temperamental. Look up service bulletin number 106 follow the instructions, this is likely to fix your problem. Also, make sure to ground the board at screw down, connect it's ground to main ground strap. If you can't complete the circuit it won't work. It need power and ground. Let us what happened.

#23 3 months ago
Quoted from dc2010:

My previous reply stated a solid 5V absolutely nothing less. Board is very temperamental. Look up service bulletin number 106 follow the instructions, this is likely to fix your problem. Also, make sure to ground the board at screw down, connect it's ground to main ground strap. If you can't complete the circuit it won't work. It need power and ground. Let us what happened.

Bulletin 106 is only for jumbo DMD games. This is a regular size.

#24 3 months ago

I would get a ground strap/wire to that J7 hole on the new driver board.
Another thought, is that ROM chip seated correctly, no feet bent under,? I've done this before.

#25 3 months ago
Quoted from GLSP3022:

I would get a ground strap/wire to that J7 hole on the new driver board.
Another thought, is that ROM chip seated correctly, no feet bent under,? I've done this before.

I have done it too lol, are the ROMs seated with the notch pointed up?

#26 3 months ago
Quoted from dc2010:

I have done it too lol, are the ROMs seated with the notch pointed up?

yes you can see in picture rom is oriented correctly. there really is no where to put the ground strap on this new rottendog board, the old board had the ground connected at the corners. this new board has no ground connections there.

When i hold the board up to the light i dont see any tracings at that j7 hole.

also i have looked i cant find service bulletin #6 for a data east?

#27 3 months ago

Brain fart, service #106 is for large DMD

But , that stable 5v is a must

#28 3 months ago

It appears the holes have metal eyelets in them for grounding on the metal mounting screws. There wont be any traces, that's a giant ground loop around the outside of the board.

#29 3 months ago
Quoted from GLSP3022:

It appears the holes have metal eyelets in them for grounding on the metal mounting screws. There wont be any traces, that's a giant ground loop around the outside of the board.

This!

#30 3 months ago

what does this mean?

i have ordered a new eprom. i will see if that helps. i will contact rottendog and see what they say about the 4.9 volts from the power supply board.

#31 3 months ago

Thought maybe your +5 and ground were backwards on the dmd driver board, but doesn't appear to be the case.

#32 3 months ago

Try putting a ground between the metal post ant the back off the board where it screws

#33 3 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

what does this mean?
i have ordered a new eprom. i will see if that helps. i will contact rottendog and see what they say about the 4.9 volts from the power supply board.

It means when the board is mounted on the metal bolts that hold the DMD in, the board is then grounded to the machine. The metal eyelets in the mounting holes touch the metal bolts creating a common ground.
You have it mounted on plastic pins, therefore the board itself really has no ground to the rest of the machine.

I'm also suspect of that slightly low 5v power.

#34 3 months ago

I had the same thing happen once, I thought my power coming in was fine because it read almost 5v but that ended up being the problem....like someone stated earlier it needs a STABLE 5v they are very finicky. Hope this helps!

#35 3 months ago

If I’m not mistaken I think you can order a booster board pretty cheap

#36 3 months ago

This happened to me last night lol

Seriously look do those 2 things

IMG_20190721_015034 (resized).jpg
#37 3 months ago
Quoted from dc2010:

This happened to me last night lol
Seriously look do those 2 things[quoted image]

did going to 5 volts fix it?

#38 3 months ago

Yes, my test rig has a separate power supply for the florescent lights though so I just ran from the 5v off it

As someone suggested inspect your connector on the driver board, too

#39 3 months ago
Quoted from dc2010:

Yes, my test rig has a separate power supply for the florescent lights though so I just ran from the 5v off it
As someone suggested inspect your connector on the driver board, too

i measure 4.95 on the connector when i hook it up to the dmd and turn it on. it drops to 4.8 volts on the dmd board

#40 3 months ago

That's supposed to be in tolerance, but boards are finicky

#41 3 months ago

The 4.8 when on is suspect!

#42 3 months ago

I worked on enough of the DE 128x32 DMD games to say 4.8v at the DMD controller board is ok as well as 4.94v on the power supply. Even with that said, at some point, I suggest all the electrolytic capacitors be replaced as they tend to fail after this long period. Caution is needed to remove them as they are difficult to remove.

Is the game booting up? You can see the left 2 red LEDs are lit on the MPU? Game is in attract mode with the controlled insert lamps cycling?

If not, test these 2 fuses to be sure they are not blown.
20161122_213122 (resized).jpg

#43 3 months ago

Both lights on the MPU are on (only pia is off and it blinks at cycle on) Sound seems to work and lights on playfield are working in attract mode. i pulled every fuse on the game and checked it. All are working well.

#44 3 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

Both lights on the MPU are on (only pia is off and it blinks at cycle on)

Can you count the flashes? Looks like your MPU has an error. It should repeat after a pause.

#45 3 months ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Can you count the flashes? Looks like your MPU has an error. It should repeat after a pause.

this board does the exact same as my simpsons board. pia light comes on at power on. then immediately goes off and blanking and mpu light stay solid. there are no flashes.

I got my new eprom and plugged it in with all the hopes and dream of a little boy at his first birthday. Turns out I got a turd. still completely dead DMD.

I am going to replace the voltage regulator and the capacitor and see if that will fix it...... I dont know what else to do......

#46 3 months ago

Post pictures of both MPU boards. There is a jumper change needed if going from a single EPROM to 2 and vice versa.

#47 3 months ago

i didnt change the number of eproms still only using one on the dmd board

#48 3 months ago

MPU board, as that is where the boot up issue is. Simpsons MPU uses 2 game EPROMs and SW uses 1 game EPROM. Junper must be set properly for each game.

#49 3 months ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

MPU board, as that is where the boot up issue is. Simpsons MPU uses 2 game EPROMs and SW uses 1 game EPROM. Junper must be set properly for each game.

but i never changed anything. star wars used to work before i disconnected everything. But i never changed a jumper. I just put everything back together and now the dmd doesnt work. The dmd board always had one eprom. i have never changed that.

#50 3 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

but i never changed anything. star wars used to work before i disconnected everything. But i never changed a jumper. I just put everything back together and now the dmd doesnt work. The dmd board always had one eprom. i have never changed that.

You need to change the jumper on the MPU if you install the Simpsons EPROMs when you move it over from SW.

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