(Topic ID: 72482)

Data East Star Wars Club...Members & Fans Welcome.

By MustangPaul

5 years ago

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  • 3,224 posts
  • 290 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by wolfemaaan
  • Topic is favorited by 138 Pinsiders


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#2604 1 year ago

New to the club and my second Pin - the one everyone warned me about when I bought my first. Will be back here often as like most new members, this ones a little rough and dirty

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#2606 1 year ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

Looks great! Now about that lockdown reciever...

Ha! What’s under the carpet will never be seen ‍♂️ ...until you come here. But we understand. I’m about to see what mine looks like. If it’s anything like the spider eggs I found inside the legs, I’m not ready

#2607 1 year ago

Ok, first thing I notice that appears to be difficult to get is the Death Star Speaker Grills. Not sure what these guys tried to do, but im looking for these and looks like nobody is selling them. I saw somebody suggest printing them from a good scan. Anybody have good scan pics of these, or better know of a place where I can buy them?

#2609 1 year ago

There is another thread asking, but does anybody here have the Speaker Grill Scans? I will just screen them myself if I can get a decent pic of it

#2613 1 year ago

So is the black or white rubber kit the original one?

Also the pop bumpers. Are the Red caps or white caps original?

#2617 1 year ago
Quoted from PACMAN:

[quoted image][quoted image]

Ah thanks. Red & Black

#2619 1 year ago
Quoted from cabuford:

Got some custom apron cards from mikonos
They look even better in person! Printed on chrome vinyl. [quoted image]

Is that a bro deal or is mikonos selling these puppies? Looks pretty aweseom

#2623 1 year ago
Quoted from cabuford:

He sold them, I just pm’ed him through pin side. He made me some for LW3 as well. Shoot him a message.

I did, thanks for the info

#2624 1 year ago

Also looking for the large rear playfield plastics. Seems like the Marcos set doesn’t include these. Any recommended place to get these?

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#2625 1 year ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I have the new code in mine but I don't know what the old one was like. Let us know how the side mirrors fit, should look GREAT! My R2 head was looking it's age so I had it rechromed, $50 but it looks like new now. Sure wish I could get the yellow off his arms though, old plastic. Cool...what did you talk about?

mustangpaul Where/how did you get it re-chromed? Looking to do the same thing

#2627 1 year ago

Another ? Is the playfield R2D2 supposed to have an extruding plastic (about 1/16”) on top of him? Not sure if this is some bogus playfield protector or normal stock on a DESW. If you look close at the pic, you can see it. Seems like the ball would get some lift off that

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#2629 1 year ago
Quoted from Tinnhound:

I straightened my plastics at the back, they were bowed like yours. I have not seen them reproduced anywhere. Straightening them is super easy, ask me how I did mine

Hairdryer? ‍♂️ So how did you do it without ruining them?

#2633 1 year ago
Quoted from Tinnhound:

On a hot sunny day, I laid down one sheet of black construction paper, followed by a sheet of pinball glass, then the cleaned plastics, then gently laid a second sheet of pinball glass on top. It took 2 nice sunny afternoons, and they were perfectly flat, just like new!!

Nice. Gonna try that right now. Thanks!

If it works, you should make a topic on this

#2634 1 year ago

Here we go - the tinnhound method!

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#2636 1 year ago
Quoted from Tinnhound:

I forgot to mention that I did mine outside on the deck, on a hot, sunny summer day, so the glass can get nice and hot.

This is So Cal and right there is hot AF. But will definitely take it outside where it’s a little hotter if I get no progress. BTW for reference, here is the before warp

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#2637 1 year ago

So anybody have a good HQ scan of the Death Star on the speaker grill?

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#2640 1 year ago
Quoted from Beaumistim:

What would be a fair price for one of these?

For a scan or the actual Death Star grill? Do you have a pair?

#2641 1 year ago

The tinnhound method seems to be working. By end of day, should have 2 perfectly flat pieces of plastic

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#2643 1 year ago
Quoted from Beaumistim:

No, what would be a fair Pryce for an working machine

Depends. I just picked up a very dirty and neglected one for $4k in Cali. I saw another beat up one for $2500. In good 100% working condition $5k and up depending on quality. So you got a wide range depending if you want to have a project or turn key ready to go

#2644 1 year ago

Can somebody take a good quality picture of their Death Star speaker grill close up? Want to see if there is some way I can get this printed on a blank grill. Thanks in advance

#2648 1 year ago
Quoted from PACMAN:

I’ll try to scan one of mine for you.

Awesome, thanks. Even a good high quality iphone pic will probably do. Much appreciated

#2649 1 year ago

Soooo drumroll.....

Brand new flat AF plastic! You the man tinnhound ! I owe you a brew if you ever stop by in LA


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#2650 1 year ago

Ok, next item. Anybody know where you can buy these ball guide screws with rivet holes? Or do I need to manufacture my own?

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#2652 1 year ago

Yeah, I’m going to my dads this weekend. So he likes fixing shit like this. Me personally would like to just buy and re rivet. But first one that solves this wins

#2654 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Um... pinball life. has the part you need.
Spade Bolt - Straight

You rock! I’ve been looking everywhere for these. Spade bolt? Ok.

#2655 1 year ago

Ok, every part on the playfield has been removed and cleaned. Good as it’s gonna get for this puppy. Now it’s time to start putting it back together.

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#2656 1 year ago

Well actually everything except the targets...

#2657 1 year ago
Quoted from PACMAN:

I’ll try to scan one of mine for you.

Checking back to see if you can post these. Much appreciated!

#2658 1 year ago

Anybody know where to get the moving Up/Down Guilde for the Death Star Target? Can’t seem to locate an available one anywhere


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#2660 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

You have to finish it, and trim it... Etc, etc, etc.
Data East part is NLA.

Awesome, thx. Yeah I saw that one and was just curious if it was close dimensions. Was ready to Frankenstein it if necc

#2662 1 year ago
Quoted from freshjive:

Any luck finding a 3D model? Mine is missing an Arm.

Ask this guy, seems like an easy task for him considering he did a full size one


#2663 1 year ago
Quoted from PACMAN:

Are there cards that have the new 1.07 code/rules on them?

Is there v.1.07 scorecards out there?

#2664 1 year ago

Ok, just got done Frankenstein’n The Death Star Up/Down Target Assembly. What a pain but it’s working so totally worth it. If I ever see the parts online I’m buying them for backups.

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#2665 1 year ago
Quoted from stepside:

Tech Question: I'm mostly through with a topside teardown/clean/wax/rubber replacement. The manual says the machine uses 5 long post rubbers (page 32 if you're following along at home). The rubber kit for this machine includes 5 (from Marcos).
So maybe I've been staring at little metal posts too long but I see only 4. Is this a mistake in the manual or am I missing something? I have new rubbers on bumper posts on either side of the ramp opening and either side of the C3PO shot. I've already found some screwball previous owner/operator "fixes" that I've had to replace to bring back to original spec so maybe they removed a bumper post somewhere?
Any help/advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Did you ever figure out where the short (7/8”) “A” Bumper Post rubber goes? I’m addi to “C” missing from page 32, so is “A” nowhere to be found

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#2667 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Note: pg.32
A bumper post long 545-5009-00
B post rubber short 545-5151-00
C post rubber long tapered shape 545-5260-00 NLA
--- 545-5260-00 was last used on LW3.

A location is nowhere listed. I’m aware of the page 32 ref, that’s actually what Marcos references for this 1 odd rubber. But where is that post?

#2669 1 year ago

Ok, I see. Strange though I hit up Marcos and they didn’t know. They figure why do we care as long as these sukkas keep buying the extra part

#2670 1 year ago

Can somebody please post a picture of where this gate mounts to. One side is on a post and the other side is floating, not sure if it needs to go on a plastic or something else

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#2672 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Plastic. Truss head screw.

Ok, thanks. If anybody has a picture I’d like to see

#2675 1 year ago
Quoted from waynemeadows1970:

Hope this helps
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

That’s does, much appreciated! Man couldn’t find a pic of that anywhere.

So both sides are screwed into the plastic? Hmm, I thought for sure one side was mounted on that post

#2676 1 year ago

Ok, anybody know where this plastic goes?

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#2677 1 year ago
Quoted from TimberOne:

Hey guys I am close to completing a restoration! I have a few questions so please let me know if you can. I will post some photos when done, I replaced all the plastics, LED, Pinsound, speaker kit, etc. Game looks great!
First question. I cannot get the game to the correct angle. I thought the level vile was just off but I just purchased a TSPP game and can see how much more angle that game is and now also see how slow the SW game is so it definitely needs to be a higher pitch. Seems like an easy adjust but the rear feet are all the way down (high) and the fronts are all the way in and it is nowhere close to the proper angle. The front and rear legs are the same size. Is this correct or is the rear leg supposed to be longer than the front?
I have a couple left over plastics from the kit. Any idea where these go? It appears that the small blue piece goes behind the use the force hole but there is now a flasher there and maybe a design change? I see nowhere the clear plastic would even fit.
BTW, I just got the cpu board repair and center ramp repairs made and if anyone needs this service let me know and will forward the names of the folks that did these services.

[quoted image]

Did you ever figure out where those 2x plastics go?

#2680 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Please for the final time... That plastic piece fits under Obi One... The left scoop kickout.
You know the two posts that stick up... then the blue plastic...Then the top spacers...
Then the Obi One plastic to finish it off.
Your welcome.

Nope, there is a smaller one under obi one. These 2 appear to be extra. As you can see, I have the smaller similar piece installed under Obi One. These 2 pieces though don’t seem to go anywhere. Any ideas?

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#2681 1 year ago

At first I thought it might go under the double x-wing target like Obi, but unless you remove the flashing light it will not fit

#2683 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Does it fit under the center plastic in the middle? without the top plastic?
I have my flashers mounted under the playfield along with a single GI lamp tucked into the center zone.
I have a clear plastic that covers and extends over the two yellow targets in order to control air balls.

Like I said, it will fit there but you would have to remove the flashing bulb completely. My guess it was an optional piece in case the flasher annoyed the F outta you. Still though can’t figure what that large piece is for, that absolutely fits nowhere. I thought maybe somewhere in the head or maybe above some of the under the playfield ramps

#2686 1 year ago
Quoted from Lonzo:

It appears to match the same mounting holes as the X wing target in the middle. I wonder if the prototype didn’t have the flasher or something and this was the plastic that was originally designed or a service bulletin or something.

I think vector mention his xwing flasher build is mounted from under the table. That might clear enough room for this plastic to fit right above the double targets. But then you would have a river hole on the top piece or a rivet that doesn’t have a purpose. Either way, yeah maybe prototype. This machine was a very ambitious effort from Data East so sounds like some items just didn’t get worked out before they needed to ship. Still waiting for Chad to hack that Speeder Bike Video Mode so it’s ususble.

#2688 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Um... Williams sued Data East over the uses of modes that they used.
Thus, Data East software/design crew had to gut and chop the game back together.
White Willy strikes again.

So that must explain the extra plastics

#2689 1 year ago

Ok, mystery DESW part #10,224

Anybody knows where this goes?

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#2690 1 year ago

Ok, it appears it goes here to support this plastic. Was wondering what that hole was for

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#2692 1 year ago
Quoted from cabuford:

I thin I'm missing that piece! At least the strip, I've got the hex spacer.

You could probably manufacture it if it’s hard to find

#2693 1 year ago

Ok, does this whack post really just sit here like this on top of the plastic unattached?

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#2694 1 year ago

Can somebody take a closeup of how this plastic is fastened? Seems like its at an angle and this whack post just sits on to the deathstar inlane plastics

#2695 1 year ago

This machine is full of whack plastic that doesn’t make sense. So how does R2D2 go up & down with this plastic installed? The left arm hits it on the way down

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#2697 1 year ago
Quoted from Jtm3:

Hope these help. Looks like you have it right. I just confirmed that R2's arm does hit the clear plastic but it (the plastic) floats in the back so it has enough play in it.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Ok, thanks for checking. So this must explain how people end up with missing R2 arms

#2699 1 year ago
Quoted from Dkjimbo:

For all you guys that have Pinsound - question:
I have the Pinsound with the Julian mix presently loaded. Pinsound really is an amazing game changer on this game however I have a few gripes with both of the 2 mixes available on the pinsound website.
Both of the mixes have sequences that still use original (horrible) music tracks. For example, the Julian mix - the restart multiball "hurry up" goes back to the tinny/cheesy chiptune sounding music vs the orchestrated motion picture music. There is at least one other sequence as well. Why is this? Is it possible to "finish" these mixes and eliminate any existence of the original music? I know nothing of the software or the process of creating the mixes but it seems like for some reason both mixes are "3/4 baked" in that they are such fantastic improvements over the stock sound package but when you do get the taste of the original music during some sequences its very jarring and so out of place...

The answer is Yes - they offer a free editing app on their website. You can add/remove/remix whatever you want

So do it and share you’re anti-chiptune rework with us all!

#2700 1 year ago

It’s called Pinsound Studio


There you go - we expect a remix by this weekend

#2704 1 year ago
Quoted from Vader77:

They are uploaded but pending approval. Let me know what you think and enjoy!

Awesome! I'm just hooking up my Pinsound so will definitely be downloading it once it's online

#2706 1 year ago
Quoted from Vader77:

They are approved and ready to download!

Hmm, I the original, Julian and one by Pinhead - is that yours?

#2707 1 year ago

Also for you Pinsounders, my kit came with this base that appears to be installed with the sub. Did you guys use this or just mount the sub directly to the Pin floor like the original?

#2708 1 year ago

Doesn't even appear to fit the sub

#2710 1 year ago
Quoted from Vader77:

Nope, Vader77
(The disco mix would make me more of a pinbooty than pinhead)

Ok, they’re not online yet. All good I’m still messing with my speakers. Will be downloading as soon as they post it

#2711 1 year ago

By the way, totally down with the Star Wars Disco, I got a disco Ball in my game room

#2713 1 year ago

Very cool, you already got over 50 downloads. I’m grabbing it as soon as I get my Pinsound connected tomorrow

#2715 1 year ago
Quoted from Dkjimbo:

Anyone else having major issues downloading files from the Pinsound Community? I have tried all day to download these files from different computers on different ISPs and I never get a speed higher than 400kps and it stalls out around 50% every time. Anyone already have the files on their local computer and could share a quick dropbox link or something like that?

Maybe everybody is download Vader’s remix?

#2716 1 year ago

So I finally got my legs back on my Star Wars, wow this Pin is tall AF! Does everybody’s measure 78” to the top of head? My KISS is only 71”. Seems almost too high but I have the stock/standard 28” legs on

#2718 1 year ago
Quoted from Dkjimbo:

Anyone else having major issues downloading files from the Pinsound Community? I have tried all day to download these files from different computers on different ISPs and I never get a speed higher than 400kps and it stalls out around 50% every time. Anyone already have the files on their local computer and could share a quick dropbox link or something like that?

Yeah their site is pretty slow. Not timing out yet but it’s laggin

#2719 1 year ago

Question. Does everyone here have an extruding playfield R2D2 on the middle right? I also seem to have thin plastic covering over several of the playfield areas IE over X-wing fighters, in front of the sling shots, etc.

Is Embossed R2D2 a stock playfield item? It gives the ball some lift.

Are these other items added later as an attempt to protect the playfield?

The only reason I ask is it affects the ball flow quite a bit. If it’s stock, then that’s what is intended. If not, I’m going to contemplate on removing them as long as it does damage the playfield

Curious how everyone else’s playfield are

#2721 1 year ago
Quoted from drummermike:

My playfield also has the plastic over R2D2 and the other spots. It is hard to see most of them.

Yeah from reading other threads, appears to be Mylar. Just wondering if that was a stock item or after market. The R2D2 though definitely seems like part of the playfield. Maybe to deliberately give lift in the ball when hitting that lane. I actually got the ball stuck on one which made me start wondering

#2724 1 year ago

Man, I’ve been trying to get to my Pinsound install for weeks now and something else comes up. But I think tonight’s gonba be the night and first thing is getting Vader’s remix loaded

I see there is a Firmware for the Pinsound Board - is this pretty straight forward? This is probably the only thing in the way of getting this online

#2725 1 year ago

Ok, got the firmware installed,but the sound zips aren’t loading for me. I’m reading you have to use a USB 3.0. I only have 2.0s so guess I’m gonna have to pick some up (or my drives are bad). I tried a couple although the firmware seemed to load fine. Man there’s always something

#2726 1 year ago

Also, for my next project - ROM upgrade to 1.07

Anybody know what the detail is of these 2 ROMs? There appears to be a Display ROM version and CPU version. Do you upgrade both?

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#2730 1 year ago
Quoted from ChadH:

You only need the CPU ROM (v.1.07). Your Display ROM is good.

Thanks Chad! Can't wait to try it out

#2731 1 year ago
Quoted from koops:

I wonder if there is any demand for this to make it worth while.
I don't personally need one though so I'd need a good reason to spend time on it.
I just had a look at mine and the geometry seems fairly simple. Might take 3-4 hours of modelling including revisions.
Depending on how long it takes to make I may just put it up on thingiverse.
If you were to print one yourself I'd suggest hand sanding it, priming and then doing a top coat of white paint otherwise it will look like a cheap 3d print (which it would be ). Sanding and priming can remove the visible layers. Example below.
[quoted image]
My only issue is that I have a prototype machine so i'll have to get someone to look at the pics of my r2 and see if it matches a production machines r2.
My R2 head itself is significantly different (seems hand made) but I don't think that should be an issue for the body.

Yeah if it’s accurate, you would sell out. Not sure if a single person has a perfect R2D2 dome and couldn’t use a backup

#2732 1 year ago

Ok, so after several weeks, stripping, cleaning, ordering parts, re-ordering wrong parts, Frankensteining parts, soldering, replacing boards, fuses, bulbs, burnt idc connectors, and a pair of bloody knuckles, it’s done!

Saved the Pinsound for last, loaded the stock roms, adjusted the equalizer.

Then I downloaded Vader’s OST. Woooww!!! What a payoff, worth every dollar, minute, bloody knuckle I put down! Thanks Vader - you rock!

And no, that wasn’t a tear in my eyes, these onions in here must be pretty wild

I put this machine together for my brothers 50th Birthday. We used to play like crazy when we were kids at a 7/11 down the street. We lost my younger brother earlier this year and I can’t pretend there isn’t something missing now. Hopefully this will let us escape for a minute, I can sure say i did while I was building it.

He’s a huge Star Wars fan, so this machine while I love it, wasn’t for me. He has no idea but I’m expecting he’s gonna have some wild onions at his house when I drop it off.

What a great machine though, hats off to Data East!

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#2740 1 year ago
Quoted from PACMAN:

[quoted image]

Quoted from Vader77:

Looks great, great story, sorry about your brother, thanks for compliment and what is that behind your deathstar?!?!

It's a Wampa - it was my brother's and he used to play with when he was a kid. I figured its the safest place to keep it

By the way Vader - got a sample of your Disco mix and that's totally getting play this weekend with my Disco ball

#2741 1 year ago
Quoted from PACMAN:

[quoted image]

You are correct Pacman - I got the idea I believe from you. I think your the one who posted it first, and its perfect

#2742 1 year ago

Friday Night Disco with DESW & Vader’s Disco Mix - brilliant man! And Bill Murray is ice man

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#2744 1 year ago
Quoted from Vader77:

Awesome! Glad you like it! I thought it was a Wampa (didn't remember the name tbh) I would like to see a closer pic if you don't mind...
I like how the Bill Murray song goes on when you start a new game, happy accident.

I’ll shoot Wampa when I get home. You should add Bill doing the Star Wars sound effects at the end of the game. There is a blank sound slot there and would be perfect. Otherwise I might tweak your Disco edit. BTW, that made me really star to think of other edits BTW. Pinsound is soooo FN cool

#2746 1 year ago
Quoted from Vader77:

I'm not familiar with him doing sfx??? Got a link?

Actually it’s the 2001 Space Oddysey theme at the beginning of the skit

#2747 1 year ago
Quoted from Vader77:

Awesome! Glad you like it! I thought it was a Wampa (didn't remember the name tbh) I would like to see a closer pic if you don't mind...
I like how the Bill Murray song goes on when you start a new game, happy accident.

Here is Wampa. I got a bread tie on him so it doesn’t move around. He’ll catch the ball if it’s off. Kind of reminds me of Disneyland’s Matterhorn Mountain ride when you sling right around a similar looking beast

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1 week later
#2750 1 year ago
Quoted from acidburn:

Joined the club at the weekend
[quoted image]

Congrats. This game fun to play

#2752 1 year ago
Quoted from freshjive:

Here's mine!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looking very bright! Well done

3 weeks later
#2758 11 months ago

Flipper power question. Is the Grey and Blue wires the high power (50v) and the Orange low power or visa versa?

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#2759 11 months ago

Can somebody post a pic of their flipper coil setup? I keep hearing some people have EOS but DESW doesn't appear to have these at all. It appears the Orange/Violet (Right Flipper) and Orange/Grey (Left Flipper) are low voltage from CPU Board CN 19-1 (Right) & 19-2 (Left). And the Blue-Yellow (Right Flipper) and Grey-Yellow (Left Flipper) are High voltage from Solid State P.S. BD CN 2-4 (Right), 5 and CN 2-1, 2 (Left). There also doesn't seem to be a ground anywhere on the flipper coil/assembly. Just wanted to be sure this matches up with everyone else here.

I'm still getting weak flipper response/flipper hold and once I verify this, going to measure the power off each connector

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#2761 11 months ago
Quoted from cabuford:

No EOS, everything is controlled by the Solid State Flipper board in the lower right hand side of the cabinet. Blue/Yel and Grey/Yel is the power coming from the board, 50v for initial flip, 8v for hold.
There is a lot more information about this in the Lethal Weapon 3 manual than there is in the Star Wars manual.

Ok, thanks for the info. The coils get pretty hot and flippers seem to get weaker as that occurs. Will need to dig deeper to see why this issue is occurring

#2763 11 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Anyone know if there is a setting to auto-launch the ball after a certain amount of time? I have desw in my waiting room and when kids leave it mid-game it keeps making the tie fighter whooshing sound over and over.

You just need an app that sends your kids an alert every 2 minutes "Shut The Mutha FN Machine Off NOWWWW!!!"

#2770 10 months ago

Looking good. This machine looks very good polished with the right lights. I’ve seen them look pretty bad, including the one I restored.

#2773 10 months ago
Quoted from Mikonos:

I will show my custom cards for this pinball. I hope you like:
"Star Wars Custom Pinball Card - Instructions" (DATA EAST). Designed by Zona Arcade & Mikonos.
[quoted image]
"Star Wars Custom Pinball Card - Instructions" (DATA EAST). Designed by Zona Arcade & Mikonos.
[quoted image]
*I take bigger screenshots and photos, click to enlarge images (and click again on display image mode if it is necessary) for avoid blur effect of pinside´s miniatures.

These are great cards. Any possibility of posting the PDF file without Watermarks?

#2778 10 months ago
Quoted from Mikonos:

Hi wolfemaaan!
Thanks for your comment!
If you are interested in some copies, I would do them for you. No problem for me! But, it is better you wait for me to finish posting all I designed and print result.
"Star Wars Custom Pinball Card - Free Price" (DATA EAST). Designed by Zona Arcade & Mikonos.
[quoted image]
"Star Wars Custom Pinball Card - Free Price" (DATA EAST). Designed by Zona Arcade & Mikonos.
[quoted image]
*I take bigger screenshots and photos, click to enlarge images (and click again on display image mode if it is necessary) for avoid blur effect of pinside´s miniatures.

I can wait. Thanks, they look great

3 weeks later
#2788 9 months ago
Quoted from wontwa:

Still hoping this becomes a reality someday:

Before anyone gets their hopes up, ChadH's statement after originally posting the above:
"I got it working long after the code was released... but unfortunately it's a hack and won't work in the real game. I'd love to some day figure out a way to incorporate it but chances are really slim. I was happy to at least be able share what it was for historical purposes."

Come on ChadH! Do we have to get a Gofundme together for you to get this working in 1.08?

1 week later
#2792 9 months ago
Quoted from Guido13:

Dumb question: does anybody have the dimensions of the cabinet with the top folded down? I just purchased this machine and I pick it up this weekend. I’m hoping I can get it my SUV. Thanks!

Somebody has a link to all trucks and if they can fit Pins. What kind of SUV do you have?

1 week later
#2813 9 months ago
Quoted from Guido13:

Two questions:
1. Do these drop targets look right? Especially the yellow one?
2. I’m having issues with the general illumination lights. Currently, the front half of the machine is lit. The back half is not. Interestingly, it was the opposite yesterday. Ha!!! I did reset some of the wiring cables and connected a few ground wires.
Any ideas would be helpful!!!
[quoted image]

1. While the yellow is very unique and looks like a krakhead spent quality time installing it, they sell full drop target kits & decals at Marcos

2. I believe it’s the CN8 connector on the Power Suppy. If it’s brittle or cracked from the long term heat, then you might need to wiggle it or replace it

Good luck

#2824 9 months ago

When you say the F2 & F4 fuses “burnt up” do you mean they keep blowing out?

1 week later
#2837 8 months ago
Quoted from Dkjimbo:

Keep in mind - R2D2 is NOT chrome in the films. His head dome or whatever you call it is really more of a satin aluminum finish. I haven't done it myself but have seen people have success with simply spray painting the part with a satin silver rattle can. Its much more authentic in my opinion.

Technically R2D2 had a little man inside as well, not sure if anybody has tried to replicate this as well inside the game. ‍♂️

#2844 8 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

WHAT??? Did they put the Remove sticker on the wrong side??? This is beyond stupid. I gotta hear what they have to say about this.

I got this but pretty sure Pac-Man isn’t laughing. What’s that saying? “Fool me once, shame on you; fool me twice, shame on me.” Better you than me? ‍♂️

2 weeks later
#2876 8 months ago

It amazes me what you find missing in a machine. Why would anybody get rid of that piece?

1 week later
#2901 7 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

i am refurbishing my machine and i noticed the woofer speaker is not a woofer but some mid-range speaker which sounds like crap. I have replaced the woofer in my TZ with no problem with this guide :http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_replacement.html
however the data east star wars seems to be wired differently, can i just hook the crossover in line with the existing wiring? and do i need to add volume control to the mid range and tweeter speakers like i did with my TZ?

If your goal is to get great sound the get a Pinsound and either their speakers, Flipper Fidelity, or something of your liking. The stock DE sound board is crappola plus you can put in custom better quality songs. Best mod I’ve ever bought

#2903 7 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

yeah i know, just not ready to spend that amount of cash yet. I upgraded by TZ with just a better woofer, crossover and the LPAD and it sounds much better. I have some flipper fidelity's in my other pins and i felt that the only real difference was the bass. so i have just been doing that to my pins. This is my only data east machine and not sure how to hook up the LPAD when they are on two different amps

BTW, the humm goes away as well. Does the speaker cackle like you can hear the paper? If so, then any speaker online same size will work. And it does look like a midrange and not a sub, but never bothered to fully investigate as it got replaced.

Again, gonna sound like a Pinsound salesman here but when you hear the full John Williams theatrical music playing (esp Vader’s version) you are gonna wonder WTF you’ve been doing. It’s true stereo and you’ll never complain about it being too soft. If anything you’ll be turning it down. Just sayin

#2905 7 months ago

Those pictures from my post is your step by step guide. Marcos sells a similar parts (listed below) as the originals are never in stock. Your gonna need a dremel and superglue or something else that bonds plastic

Original parts:

Complete Set:

Individual Parts

Frankenstein Parts:
These parts are in stock - so between the two of them you should be able to Frankenstein the gate like I did. Key ingredient - patience and accuracy


1 week later
#2921 7 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

is there any way to fix the silver lettering on the data east pinball apron. some of my silver lettering is gone?

Well there’s 3 ways to look at it. You can find one of those plastic chrome shops (somebody posted a link in this thread) and see how that comes out). 2, wait till somebody sells one (good luck there). Or 3, just accept it as part of the machines life and character and move on.
I personally only mess with stuff that effects the game play but can see how that would bother somebody.

That’s my 2 cents, and it’s worth half a penny at best

3 weeks later
#2975 6 months ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

Yes, everyone please show us your knockers!!


299FFCE1-B9FC-48A0-A52A-86367CF132DF (resized).jpeg
2 weeks later
#2993 5 months ago

Speeder Mode! Speeder Mode!

Chad! Chad! Chad!

Go fund me!

Come on! If you make it, they will Speeder Mode

1 week later
#3003 5 months ago

Data East Star Wars STILL the best Star Wars Pin ever made!

#3005 5 months ago

Hey guys, is there an adjustment to turn on the replay knocker in this game or is it automatic? I know other games IE GNR actually have an on/off adjustment setting, but I can’t seem to locate anything in the menus for this game

#3007 5 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Adj. 4 Game awards = Credit.

Thanks! Weird way to name it, in GNR it just says Replay Knocker

#3011 5 months ago
Quoted from Ive:

Just rebuilt one and testing it. When does the Death Star spin ? All the time ? Most of the time ?

It spins with R2D2, most of the time. If yours is sticking you probably need to reflow the solder on the relay below the PF or replace it. If it’s not spinning at all probably a fuse

#3015 5 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Adj. 4 Game awards = Credit.

Hey - do you guys know what the power is for the replay knocker coil? Want to be sure its spitting out the correct voltage before connecting

#3018 5 months ago

Question regarding the PPB Board. It appears this PPB board is not the original board (the serial number don’t match up). It seems to work except the J2 connector has a number layout that does not match the schematics at all. Can you guys take a picture of the J2 connector and so I can see if the numbers match the schematics. This board show numbers 1-8 with the key in a slot between 6-7. The schematics say 1-9 with the key being 3. The wiring on both are complete opposites. Sounds like somebody did some ghetto shit with the machine but wanted to confirm what you guys have


07C0A60F-6781-4419-AA66-1B79A7FAE90F (resized).jpegA39AB99A-2A3E-4BC9-86CC-145FE9AFF1CF (resized).jpegE3A506F0-5CC0-4B90-9FCE-5A789018FFA2 (resized).jpeg
#3020 5 months ago

Is that what yours looks like? Is this number layout normal even though it doesn’t match the schematics? Seems like some grabbed this PPB board from another non Star Wars Data East Machine

#3022 5 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Did you check pg.47?
The printed sol.drive ID numbers on the output of J2 are not the pin out numbers.
Check pg. 48 far right CN11 has the drive inputs from the CPU.

The CPU connectors are fine. The colors match. This J2 PPB connector doesnt really match up

Can you post a pic of your PPB J2?

#3024 5 months ago

Huh, so is your PPB board factory with matching serial numbers? If so then I guess this is normal

#3025 5 months ago

Also Vector, can you confirm the Mollex connector wire colors are correct? You have the same board as the one I’m working on, but the color scheme per the schematics is backwards meaning pin 8 is actually pin 1 per the schematics

#3027 5 months ago

Can you post a pic of your page 47? I’m looking and can’t find the J2 there

1 week later
#3036 4 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

anyone else need some other plastics, i would be willing to sell off the other pieces if anyone needs some of the others...

To be honest your gonna want to install the full set imo. Most sets are not going to color match yours and the set always looks nice. It’s some work but the result is worth it.

Then you could always sell your originals or store them for a rainy day

That’s my 2cents worth half a penny

1 week later
#3068 4 months ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

So I joined the club last night. Picked this up after chasing it for 6 months, the seller kept changing his mind on selling. Even though the whole time it was sitting on his garage floor... So started looking at everything deciding how far I want to go for fixing and replacing parts. My heart says all the way to a new playfield, and my wallet says whoa whoa. Either way the cabinet needs repair and most likely new decals so might as well strip it all down on a rotisserie
First question I have is why would someone have 2 red bouncing pop bumpers (proper) then 2 standard (not bouncing) yellow pop bumpers under the ramp? Sorry for the glass on pic, but I started diving in and forgot to take a picture with glass off[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

First, welcome to the club, she’ll clean up fine

Second, the reason why you see stuff that doesn’t make sense like mismatched pop bumpers? Crackheads that’s why

Don’t worry, you’ll soon discover all the other crackhead things they did but don’t despair, you got Pinside and will have it shiny and 100% in no time

Take a lot of pictures and take it down to the playfield and clean it. It will allow you to LED it properly, put new plastics on it, etc.

Now replacing the playfield? Why would you think this is needed? I rarely see extensive damage on this machine except the scoops. Cliffys will fix that

So good luck on your project

1 week later
#3075 4 months ago

Of course if you do want to spend the money, CPR appears to be working on new Playfields which are generally below $1K. But if you need one now, there’s eBay

ebay.com link » Data East Star Wars Pinball Playfield Nos

#3077 4 months ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

Yeesh. That's almost what I paid for my entire game.

Sounds like that insert glue & Mylar is looking pretty good now huh?

#3085 4 months ago
Quoted from MotorCityMatt:

Love the new code, just wish it was easier to get an extra ball. 18 ramp shoots now to get one.

Practice buddy

1 month later
#3146 3 months ago

Flipper Question. Do you guys remove the main flipper coil shaft spring or leave it on? Most of the setups I’ve seen show it removed. It appears the other thin spring may be good enough. Not sure what the benefits are but I’m suspect having the spring causes the shaft to not close properly and eventually heat & wear down the coil causing flipper flopping.

What say you guys? Springs on or off?

0F914173-A0BC-4767-AB86-B05B607E02CA (resized).jpeg
1 month later
#3178 48 days ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I am now selling my DESW. Local pickup only. Easy access. $4000 firm. Thanks.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That machine looks like its holding the ceiling up

#3181 44 days ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

can someone please confirm that if you unplug the ribbon cable from the dmd, you still get at least some type of display on the dmd when you power on. i am getting absolutely nothing on the dmd when i turn it on, and i want to rule out that it is a problem with the mpu or the cable.

You get nothing without the ribbon connected, correct. You’ll see it power on and illuminated but nothing to display

#3184 43 days ago
Quoted from doro-mini:

Hi I am japanese pinball mania.
I bought SWDE.
but some problems occured.
are not worling
I checked FUSE ,and found F5 fuse broken.
so I replased fuse.
And turn on pin,soon F5 fuse burn out.
Next I checked TRANSISTOR TIP36C Q1~Q5 , One of them is brokend.
so I eliminate this one and turn on, but still F5 fuse burned.
What should I do?

Something is shorted out. Try locating the connector associated with F5 and unplug it and see if it blows. If it doesn’t, you’ll need to trace the cables till you located which item is shorting

#3186 41 days ago
Quoted from doro-mini:

J5 pin is burnt.
Is this a problem?
What is this part called?[quoted image]

With the connector disconnected, does it still short out? The burn marks you see are not necessarily from a short but from a long period of heat which is common. You’re gonna want to replace that connector regardless

#3191 40 days ago
Quoted from doro-mini:

Thanks for advice.
Where can I buy the connector?

That one appears to be an .156 IDC 9 pin which would be:


You will need a punch tool as well. Some people also prefer to use Molex instead, but then you need a Molex tool and heads. Either way, welcome to pinball repair aka your second job

#3193 38 days ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

ok having problems with my coils not working. My special playfield coils all work appropriately and the laser kick works, but my flashers and regular coils not working at all on coil test. When i do flasher test, my VUK and rt scoop are firing, but dont fire at all in coil test. i have checked all fuses and they are good. Could this be a relay problem?

When you run the test, did you close the coin door?

#3203 36 days ago

You might check the lamp board and connector right below the Star Wars & mouth. Sounds like something is wired wrong there

4 weeks later
#3219 7 days ago

The Force is not strong with you guys, shame on you

#3223 3 days ago
Quoted from shepP:

Anyone have any tips for putting rivets into plastics? I've never used a rivet gun before and don't want to break an expensive CPR plastic replacement.

Yeah there are cheap ways to try and do rivets, but you will definitely end up crackin your plastics. A good hand squeeze rivet tool is the only way to go. You want to get one with a deep mouth as you may need to get into a piece to set a rivet. The best place to get these is https://www.hansonrivet.com/

I thought it was a 1 Gun fits all but it’s an exact science for sure as the squeeze need to come down right based on the thickness and size of the rivet. They walked me through the whole thing and I have perfect rivets everytime. As a matter of fact, never had a bad rivet not broken plastic so well worth not having to buy those again. Now if I can get something to perfect my horrible sticker & decal applications

#3224 3 days ago

Check out my thread here. I was definitely clueless but have seen the light of a hand squeezer


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