(Topic ID: 72482)

Data East Star Wars Club...Members & Fans Welcome.

By MustangPaul

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 4 days ago by vec-tor
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider timberone.
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#1936 7 years ago

Higuys, just came across your desw thread. I used to have a desw game, had to sell when i moved, always missed it, just purchased another one to kick off new game room. I have been in the process of cleaning it up, lots of work to do even though pretty decent shape. I am at page 6 so far but wanted to ask a couple questions-

I have my mpu packed to send to chris hibler for repair, knocker and flasher wont fire. It seems to be a common issue with this game. Thoughts?

My center ramp is needing repair, tabs broke, i had a friend weld it but it cracked again. I saw some tig posts but thought i would ask if anyone had a good lead?

I could have sworn my original first game has a painted glass translite. This game is a mylar or sim material. Were these games originally painted glass or both?

I have installed a speaker pro kit, led, and was working on ocd setup when i got sidetracked with the board issues. I have a pinsound board sitting in a box, cant wait to install one i get these bigger issues resolved. Thanks for any advice!

#1949 7 years ago

I was thinking about removing some of the inside paint of the deathstar also. Looks cool. Thanks for the photos.

3 weeks later
#1980 7 years ago

Hey guys I am close to completing a restoration! I have a few questions so please let me know if you can. I will post some photos when done, I replaced all the plastics, LED, Pinsound, speaker kit, etc. Game looks great!

First question. I cannot get the game to the correct angle. I thought the level vile was just off but I just purchased a TSPP game and can see how much more angle that game is and now also see how slow the SW game is so it definitely needs to be a higher pitch. Seems like an easy adjust but the rear feet are all the way down (high) and the fronts are all the way in and it is nowhere close to the proper angle. The front and rear legs are the same size. Is this correct or is the rear leg supposed to be longer than the front?

I have a couple left over plastics from the kit. Any idea where these go? It appears that the small blue piece goes behind the use the force hole but there is now a flasher there and maybe a design change? I see nowhere the clear plastic would even fit.

BTW, I just got the cpu board repair and center ramp repairs made and if anyone needs this service let me know and will forward the names of the folks that did these services.

2016-11-12 05.52.22 (resized).jpg2016-11-12 05.52.22 (resized).jpg

1 month later
#2011 7 years ago
Quoted from RedNeckHunter:

Just wanted to post some pictures of my playfield protector install.
This was what I had to remove in order to place the protector on. Got out the Mr. Clean magic eraser and gave the playfield a good once over and test fit the overlay. Fit really well and had no problems with my Cliffy's hanging up on the force or sarlacc pits.
This is a picture of the playfield once I removed the protective film off the overlay. It looks really close to a clear coat job with a very glossy finish.
All put back together and am pleased with the results. I played about five games tonight and noticed that it is playing much faster than before. Will keep you all posted on how this thing holds up over time. As far as the death star target...I just keep a some super glue handy!

Hi, just reading through old posts. Came across this and wondering if anyone knows where to buy playfield protector? How has it held up? My game is in nice shape but is getting some matting on the playfield.

#2012 7 years ago

Hello again, I have been focused on working on my game room remodel, about complete so back to fixing my DESW. I am having an issue that I cannot figure out. Switches are randomly going off with no imput. So, while the skill shot is running, the switch activation will cause the skill shot to activate, but the ball sits in the trough. Also, while playing the game, the same switches randomly activate including the door slam which kills the current game! I have noted the upper right x-wing, right bumper, door slam. I have checked the contacts and they are good, no action if bumping the box. I have checked the diagnostics and no open switches. I have sent my cpu in for repairs and have been told 100% checked. So... any idea what could be causing this? I am not even sure where to look. It seems like it would be an internal CPU type of issue??? Thanks for any help.

#2017 7 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Check the diodes on any switches in the matrix that are normally closed. Trough switches, etc.

Would that happen even with no interaction- just skillshot running but no button presses? Seems like some interaction would be needed to cause it. I have replaced the center x-wing targets so they should be good.

#2022 7 years ago

Ok, I will check out those suggestions and thank you!
Btw, any comments on that full mylar playfield protector? Does it hold up, where do you get it? My game is in great condition but the playfield is matted in finish (losing its shine) so thought it might be a good addition.

#2025 7 years ago

Thank you Koops!

#2026 7 years ago

I checked the switch contacts and did find the #3 xwing target was touching. Fixed that but still getting the phantom switch activation. Sometimes the right slingshot, ramp, target.

Where is the hex screw that Vector mentioned? I cannot locate any. I checked the ground connections on the boards and all are good.

I will have to do some research on testing diodes, I guess that could send a phantom connection, however it seems strange that it would do it when the game is just sitting still without any switch input.

I took a quick diagnostic video and wondering if you guys could take a quick look. I really appreciate all your help!!!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ilyk5moyx28whk/2017-01-13%2008.02.45.mov?dl=0

#2027 7 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Have you checked the hex head screw under the
outhole switch???? If loose it can cause weird
problems with the game. (ground short)

Where is this hex screw? Cant find it. Wire attached or ground cable?

1 week later
#2038 7 years ago
Quoted from frankmac:

All set after 24 hours of beating my head to the wall I finally realized my ribbon cable was plugged in upside down on the new board.
I went from almost hopeless to 100% in less then 2 seconds .. God I love pinball.....

So what do you think of the pinsound addition? I did one a while back and still not thrilled with the results. Sounds good, but i was expecting to blown away with pinsound and speaker pro speakers. I am hearing the sound files are highly compressed.

#2043 7 years ago
Quoted from frankmac:

I have the pinsound board in and running. When I turn the volume up to half it is cutting out. I am going to re-download tomorrow and see if I can fix this issue. It might be error on my side as this is my first dealings with a pinsound board.
I also installed Flipper Fedelity speakers and sub that match up to the pinsound board. But have not been able to fully enjoy due to music cutting out. I feel like I might need more power supply to makeup for the cut out. We will see.
Also I need to find out if I can run a volume control out to the coin door. I can not keep going behind to back glass to adjust volume. I adjust volume a lot when I am playing. This will be a must have option for me to be long term happy..

The volumn control in the coindoor should work. Are you mssing a connector at the pinboard? Last time i removed the board i missed a connector when putting it back and the pot in the coindoor would not work until i found it and connected and pot then adjusted volume.

1 week later
#2060 7 years ago
Quoted from netcivil:

I don't think it's an opto switch, but just to be sure...

I think you might be right with the switch. So, this game doesn't have the nice handy rails my newer DMD games have to set it on, allowing me to reach under and have the game still horizontal. How does one go about getting access to the under side of the game w/ the game on? (something I've long wondered and never asked).
thanks for the quick feedback!
-jg

There is supposed to be 2 brackets underside playfield. Most are broke off, not the greatest design. Marco has replacements with extra mount screws. Just installed on mine. You will see tear out holes on each side of the center light board that ights "star wars".
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-0005-00

#2061 7 years ago
I'd be interested in adding a shaker, anyone else?

#2073 7 years ago
Quoted from Hasi:

Joined the Club today. Fully restored. Pinsound Board & LED ColorDMD. PROUD!

Nice!!! Do you know where the speaker lights are connected to trigger color changing?

#2083 7 years ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

TIG Welded the ramp, now to polish it up. Welder tells me the ramp snapped because the bottom screws on the ramp lip where loose in his experience, so the repeating vibration from the impact of the ball snapped it.
Any comments or suggestions on this or screw replacement or work around ?

Mine looked exactly like that, had friend weld... mistake broke first game. I can pm you the name of a pinsider who fixed mine correctly and permenently. Do it before the side snaps.

1 week later
#2093 7 years ago

My desw is really looking good now from a pretty major referb. Now the cabinet is the only thing that is bothering me. I am thinking of repainting it. Considering the black theme. Whats everyone think? Keep the classic blue or black? That one that Hasi posted looks really nice, especially with the chrome metal!

#2106 7 years ago
Quoted from koops:

I asked about this before. I'm still undecided.
http://www.strawpoll.me/12135465

I thought there was a poll on something or other. Looks like blue by one vote. There is a lot to be said about the classic, but black sure looks cool. Wasnt there something about a 30 year anniversary edition or something in black? Someones marketing ploy?

3 weeks later
#2129 7 years ago

Marco has the lower playfield holders w 3 legs, but i could not find the top playfeild ones (r2d2 and DS), so used the 2 leg and put the diode in line w/ shrink tube. Mine were rusted up and replaced all of them.

1 week later
#2161 7 years ago

Agreed. There are only 2 sound files when i got mine. I must be using julian then because it has the phantom menice and really annoying. Anyone else have a good file? I dont have the time for another project!

#2173 7 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

I haven't see this one either, can you please direct me to it?

+1

#2182 7 years ago
Quoted from TimberOne:

Agreed. There are only 2 sound files when i got mine. I must be using julian then because it has the phantom menice and really annoying. Anyone else have a good file? I dont have the time for another project!

Anyone?

#2183 7 years ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

I got carried away when putting in LEDS and now I am not sure where this wireform belongs in the Jabba/Sarlac light stack. Anyone know ?

I believe it goes below r2 and above the double front light. At least thats where its on mine. I beleive there is a ball catch spot there and the wire is a solution. I will photo later

#2195 7 years ago

I have a couple coils/action that seem weak. Ball shoot and r2d2 dance. I replaced coil sleeves but not much help. I was going to order new coils and thinking maybe an "upgraded" coil w/ additional windings might be good? Spec is 23-800 coil was thinking 23-840 would be stronger? The ohm rating is 4.2 on the 23-800 and 4 ohm on 23-840. Thoughts?

#2202 7 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

1) Did you check for cold solder joints on the PPB board?
2) Did you check and reinsert wires to all the IDC connectors?
--- ( use a small screwdriver ).

Nope. New RD cpu but i will check rhe power board. I think there is a setting to turn up juice on the coils too, right? Is it OK to use the coil w/ more winds? The existing coil winds are kind of messed up. I assume that can have an effect also?

#2205 7 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Your A/C select relay could have bad pitted contacts.
The manual has a setting to add a few nanoseconds
to the coil pulse if you are in a low current area.
I would check the PPB board, it is notorious for bad
contacts. The PPB board has a lot of noise from driving
all the flashers and 50volt coils. As well as, driving
the 32volt coils at the same time. You could
even have some of the diodes that are going bad
that are on the board.

OK, just going to order a RD power board, not worth the time to check all the joints. I still am curious if it is OK to use a higher wind coil? TY

2 weeks later
#2238 7 years ago

Matches factory paint nearly perfect:
http://www.pinballuniverse.com/PinballPaints.htm

#2247 7 years ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

Here is my playfield after I clear coated it. DuPont chromo clear.

Nice!

1 week later
#2276 6 years ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

Here is a couple pics of my playfield after I clear coated it. Putting new plastics, new switches, posts, clear rubbers. Waiting on a few more parts. Got pinsound installed.

Nice! Can you share what product you use for clearcoat? I have a T2 diamond finish i want to do. I think somebody cleared it with a brush or something stupid, will have to block sand it and refinish correctly but trying to make sure the topcoat does not react with below finish.

#2277 6 years ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

the second one is under the Force plastic

I have never figured out where that trapazoid clear plastic goes. Anyone know?

Did you figure out the smaller ones? They are 1st layer plastics.

3 weeks later
#2325 6 years ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

this was asked two weeks ago, I have two machines and that piece in not in either of them , so nobody knows last i heard

Gotta love extra parts. I had 2 pc left over from a nos set. I think it is from last minute changes. Someone commented a ramp plastic that is not needed.

1 week later
#2330 6 years ago
Quoted from DavidC:

Hi guys, im installing plastic set now, please tell me if i m correct for this plastic, there is another one fitting at this place... The second one was not on my original plastic set, maybe missing?
Thanks for your help

It won't fit because of the flasher, I believe it was a design change to add the flasher

#2335 6 years ago

The grounds go to the metal frame on the dmd. Mine had sporatic death star and found the solder cracked on the relay to board, resoldered and perfect.

#2337 6 years ago
Quoted from visi0n:

Mostly jacking around with a GoPro I use for jetski stuff, I was curious to see if it would be a viable camera for recording pinball stuff.
A quick vid of my DESW taken yesterday. Reminds me I need to get those pingrafx replaced..
» YouTube video

Sounds and looks great! What pinsound file are you using? I need to change mine.

#2342 6 years ago
Quoted from Zarklin:

Well hmm... I'm also running a rotten dog power supply. It's not too bad when playing but damn if I leave it sitting idle. Maybe the pinsound board should be my first upgrade.
On a side note I ordered my first batch of leds last night. Turns out a lot of bulbs I thought were burned out just weren't there. Still have no idea why the force lamp won't go out during gameplay. I put a spare bulb in the shooter lane for the 5 moon indicator and it's acting the same flickering and "ghosts" but it's not led. Have a bad feeling I'm going to be chasing lighting problems once I have all good bulbs in. Fingers crossed it's wiring and not board problems.

I think the pinsound will fix the buzz. If you do LED you likely will need a OCD, I got terrible ghosting w/ led but the ocd fixed it all, looks awesome now.

#2351 6 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

I lightly sanded out the inside of my Death Star. The places where there are "seams" got thinner and show light through. Looks great. Very easy. Just go lightly.

Did the same using a fine scotchbrite pad so it just thins the paint without scratching. Added a color changing led in addition, i like it, it really glows.

#2353 6 years ago
Quoted from PinballBeerGuy:

I finally get to join the club! I bought this machine from a local collector and got it set up over the weekend. This is my first DMD machine and, oddly enough, my first machine that uses incandescent bulbs. This is probably the nicest Star Wars machine that I have ever seen; a solid 9.5/10. Playfield and plastics are perfect. There are very minor touchups made to the cabinet. The cardboard shroud behind the coin box is even intact; never seen that before. It does have new code (1.04 so I will need to upgrade to 1.07). I look forward to trying my hand at LEDs and maybe installing a Color DMD or Pinsound board. In the meantime, I will enjoy learning how to play this game.

So thats what the cardboard shroud looks like... never seen one in tact. Nice to see how Data East went all out back in the day!

Looks like a nice one!

1 week later
#2368 6 years ago
Quoted from DavidC:

Hi guys, i m looking for this plastic, mine is missing and not icluded in cpr plastic set i ve bought, pm me if you have, thanks

Its a decal, i think marco has the sets, i bought a set a few months ago.. needing the same decal

3 weeks later
#2380 6 years ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

Turns out a spare rubber from a toilet plunger assembly fits perfectly over a Data East Start Button

Dont do it! Get some touch up paint (& soap).

3 weeks later
#2394 6 years ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

the wood is brittle and the pain is flaking

I forget who carries it, but there is a place that carries nearly exact color touch up paint, you can get like 4 oz or something small like that. I would use filler, sand and touch it up long before putting a toilet grommet on it!

1 month later
#2417 6 years ago
Quoted from Sheprd:

I just picked up a DESW that is in pretty good shape. This is my first DE. Their is a rubber bungee cord hooked to an eye bolt on the floor inside the cabinet. A sign tells me to connect the cord between two eye bolts to hold the playfield up. I don't see eye bolts anywhere to use for this purpose.
Does anyone have a picture of where the eye bolts are supposed to be?

Mine was missing too when i got it. It is a counterbalance device for service.

2 weeks later
#2426 6 years ago
Quoted from Dkjimbo:

Anyone know if a source or have an extra metal ramp? Mine has a failed weld at the very bottom corner as you enter the ramp that causes the ball to deflect and not go up the ramp unless the shot is perfect. The 2nd weld up the ramp is about to fail as well. The ramp is in otherwise good shape.
Any advice on repairing those tiny welds??

I sent mine out for repair, nice job. PM me if you want the info

2 months later
#2474 6 years ago

ryandimx Pinsound was supposed to have a shaker motor option for their soundboards. Not sure if they ever finished it, have not checked in a while but might be a future option.

#2477 6 years ago

I have a new Pinball Wizard rubber kit left over for DESW. Anyone interested please send me a PM. TIA

2017-12-27 20.33.28 (resized).jpg2017-12-27 20.33.28 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#2485 6 years ago

Haha, I am watching it because I want to see if it really sells. If it does, mine is worth $20k!

1 week later
#2496 6 years ago

You can buy rivets and a knurling tool, its pretty easy to do.

1 month later
#2503 6 years ago

Yah mine does that too. I was going to put a bumper around the shaft to kick the ball over, just havent gotten to it.

1 week later
#2526 6 years ago

I got my targets from marco. They are fair priced and quick ship.

1 month later
#2548 6 years ago
Quoted from cabuford:

What I did was replace the Hex spacers with a #6 nut, so you essentially have the same ring and rod as a normal assembly. The Pop bumper bodies still have the holes for regular caps, so I just bought some new Williams caps and 1/2" pop bumper screws from Pinball Life. I did replace the discs and got translucent bodies from zitt but that shouldnt be necessary.
The only issue I noticed is that the bulb holder seems taller, and the cap wont fit with an incandescent bulb. My Comet order came yesterday and I'm putting in pop bumper discs anyway, so hopefully it'll all fit.

I used a taller hex spacer, led light and a black allen cap screw. I also have used urathane washers in many areas to keep from overtightening or loosening up over time.

3 months later
#2594 5 years ago

Could someone do me a favor and measure you legs? Something is just weird that i have yet to figure out. The table is too flat. I have the front levelers up (shorter) and rear all the way down. Game is still too flat according to the built in level. The game sits flatter than everyother game i have, even older williams T2. Legs appear stock, with the rough powdercoat finish. Front an back legs measure 28". Front lockdown bar measures 37", all other games are 36".

#2599 5 years ago

Thanks for the info. I am sure mine are stock, glad (sort of) I am not the only one that noticed this. Why put a tilt guage on the game but not able to get that tilt with stock legs? Strange.

1 week later
#2600 5 years ago

I owned a DESW years ago and when I bought another one figured it was a keeper. Well, I guess never say never in pinball! I decided to put it up for sale. It is excellent condition and a full topside rebuild. Really it is about perfect other than the cabinet which was in pretty good shape, but I would have redone the cabinet also if I had known the extent of the other items- it has a couple minor scratches on the sides but front and head are excellent. If anyone has any interest please let me know. I am not in a big rush and have lots of photos and video. I was going to ask $6k. I know that is way over the typical going price but with the extras came up with:
Game $3500
Pinsound & FF $500
Color DMD $400
Custom LED & OCD $300
Misc new parts, new plastic, cpu, speakerlights, playfield protector, new shifter, etc, etc $800
Time & effort $500

I see some ridiculous prices +6k for basic DESW. Of course if I list it will need to figure in the commission.

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