(Topic ID: 72482)

Data East Star Wars Club...Members & Fans Welcome.

By MustangPaul

10 years ago


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#1017 8 years ago
Quoted from metalgoma:

Thanks to everyone.
Another thing that I like, is the "boba feet" mod. Well integrated into the game and only lights up when you reset the kick back.
P1050851.JPG

Sorry if I missed if it was mentioned elsewhere but what was the Boba helmet originally from?

#1037 8 years ago
Quoted from metalgoma:

Hello Koops .
The helmet was sold in a collection by fascicles .
I think it's still for sale
http://www.planetadeagostini.es/tienda/figuras-marvel

awesome thanks! One is on its way now

#1045 8 years ago

Has anyone made a list of worth while mods for swde? protection/restoration & visual based ones.

I've seen quite a few mentioned in this thread aswell as a few that Ive seen in pictures but not mentioned (or perhaps referred to by terminology was used that I didn't quite understand).

2 weeks later
#1063 8 years ago

Does anyone know how many of the prototype desw were made? (There are pics of the difference on http://www.pinballcode.com/gallery/).

There isn't any mention on impb so i'm just wondering how rare they are.

#1064 8 years ago

*removed double post* can't find the delete button :\

#1067 8 years ago

I would have thought the force scoop should fire towards the left flipper. It would seem yours is slightly off then?

1 week later
#1071 8 years ago

Just joined the club and have some questions.

1.What looks the best .. black (original color) or white rubber? I've never seen one with white so I'm not sure.
I'd be able to see dirt better with white so I can know when to clean them but otherwise what do other sw owners think?

2. How do you lift the play field properly on this pin? I have two long metal rails with a stop on one end but I dont seem to be able to pull it forward to even reach the end.

edit: ok figured out the playfield lift. Just lift playfield by apron directly up and not pull it forward. There is an eyebolt protuding from the underside of the very end of the playfield about 10cm in from the left and 2cm from the end. There should be a rubber holder on the base of the cabinet that connects to that.

Ps: I think I may have a prototype or preproduction, demo(?) unit. Lots of plastics are different. I'll post some pics later.

IMG_2323.jpgIMG_2323.jpg
R2 is quite rough.
IMG_2322.jpgIMG_2322.jpg
death star is smooth and video mode instead of x-mode.
IMG_2321.jpgIMG_2321.jpg
a few curved plastics instead of the normal straight ones.
IMG_2324.jpgIMG_2324.jpg
a few curved plastics instead of the normal straight ones.
IMG_2320.jpgIMG_2320.jpg
white starwars lettering
IMG_2319.jpgIMG_2319.jpg

#1075 8 years ago
Quoted from Pauz21:

Star Wars letters aren't looking so great but I'd be curious what they look like on. I actually think your death star and R2 head look awesome. The weather look on R2 looks like he's seen some sh&t... which... let's be honest... he has. And as for the video mode on the play field... is it in the game??? Chad showed us what the video mode should be in a video a while back... I'd kill to have it in my game rather than the lame 10 million layup shot. Welcome to the club.

I'll add a pic later when kids arent sleeping It had red globes underneath so it looks quite similar to a normal machine when its actually played.

re: video mode.. I would have loved to have said that it but alas it doesn't. Does the up down handle do ANYTHING at all? I've played this pin for year at various locations and I've never been able to recall if it actually does anything.

Has anyone done a full conversion from globes to leds? Just interested in what colors you chose and also advice on any lighting tricks/issues that might exist.

1 week later
#1080 8 years ago

Has any one had issue with their transformer humming? Originally i thought it was the speakers but i ended up isolating it to the transformer.

You may need to turn up the sound 1/2 way through to hear it, but it's very obvious when my phone touches the base of the cab.

Disconnected all upstream connectors and tried tightening all transformer bolts. This didn't change anything.

#1083 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Is that a ground loop hum? I'm just guessing here. One of my games has a loud hum like that.

I disconnected everything from the transformer but it still does it so I dont think its the ground.

It sounds more like the plates vibrating (which is apparently a very common issue for tranformers in general). From my investigations and in speaking to a local pinball parts place I have a few ideas into what I can do to reduce it. It won't totally remove it but will hopefully be reduced to a less than annoying level without having to replace it totally.

#1085 8 years ago

I fixed it! Or as close to what my other pinball is.

My original plan was to float the transformer on some nylon washers to see if it would stop the vibrations passing through to the cabinet.

I first removed the transformer. But as I did so I thought "hmm i wonder if a nice long socket wrench would be able to tighten it up and make a difference?"

Grabbing a large screwdriver and long handled socket I tighten the plates as much as I could.

I'd originally tried this before but id only used a screw driver and it felt firm but using the socket wrench I found there was more I could tighten.
I removed the transformer so I could get a good angle on the bottom bolts which you cant while its screwed down.

I may try floating the transformer to reduce it already but I can't really hear it when the playfield is down now. So its significantly changed.

TL;DR, transformer plate vibration, fixed by tightening the beejezus out of it.

#1087 8 years ago

I took a few other pics while I was doing some work.

My death star is the negative of the normal ones. Its like its a mould. Its smooth on the outside and the texture is on the inside.

deathstar_mould.jpgdeathstar_mould.jpg

also underneath the deathstar I have a little v for victory hand sign that is under the clear coat. Is that like a marker mark or something?
Do all star wars machines have this?
under_deathstar.jpgunder_deathstar.jpg

#1095 8 years ago
Quoted from joelleoj:

Is there anything special that needs to be done to use LEDs in the #89 flasher sockets? I recall reading somewhere about needing to disconnect the ground wire or something? I bought a bunch a few months ago and they didn't work, but I haven't had the time to research.

I put some in just tonight and they worked fine. I just swapped the globes and they worked without me needing to do anything.

#1098 8 years ago
Quoted from joelleoj:

I may be confusing myself...it's been a few months since I've worked on the game. Are the #89 bulbs the flashers under the Death Star?
I'll take a look and try it again this weekend if I get some time.

actually sorry scratch that. I didnt actually put them under the deathstar. I put them in the back light. Hadn't tried the deathstar ones so im not sure.

#1104 8 years ago

If it's the part I think it is mine is bent to hell! Look like some ones tried to break into it.

So I'd take it!

I'll just send thru a pic of mine in the morning.

#1107 8 years ago

Mustangpaul, the receiver has the main section that connects to the cabinet, the sliding bar underneath and the handle?

Here ( http://imgur.com/a/KnhfG ) you can see the sliding bar is bent out of shape where the lock down bar has probably been wrenched upwards.

Edit : Actually, I'll let it go to someone else more local to you. Shipping would probably cost more than it's worth

1 week later
#1122 8 years ago

That custom cabinet *shudder* ... "most ugly cabinet ever"? I'm sorry but i've seen high school art projects that were better. Just hope it wasn't a real star wars cabinet that gave up its actual art work for that *sigh*

example : just have a look at the falcon "detail" -> http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/2OQAAOxy3NBSljSf/$_57.JPG
The star wars lettering isn't even aligned!

Anyway, does anyone have any idea on how to repair the data east silver coloring on the playfield apron?

#1131 8 years ago

Has anyone made an apron based lcd for their starwars?

Just having a look at available lcd's and im not sure on the size that would fit.

5" hdmi lcd's seem to be the closest to be around the size of the data east logo as i'm looking to have it between the flippers.
Glass clearance seems to be an issue as there is only around 10mm at the narrowest point.

This one (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-inch-800x480-Touch-LCD-Screen-5-Display-For-Raspberry-Pi-Pi2-Model-B-A-Worldwide/32394922313.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.11.FtWUqP ) seems too thick with its gpio connector on the back.

These ones would have the hdmi cable and usb hanging out the side. (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5-inch-LCD-HDMI-Touch-Screen-Display-Module-TFT-LCD-800-480-Banana-Pi-Raspberry-Pi/32367583439.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.20.7ME5kE)

#1135 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I think it would work best in the center of the apron, that data east logo usually has quite a bid of chrome worn off anyway. Just cut it out and make a bracket that would let the screen hang down underneith so the screen just sticks up a little, that would solve the pf glass clearance problem.
If you guys figure out how to make this mod work PLEASE let us know cuz I want one....but it would have to be a plug-n-play kit, for me anyway.

my god ... its like your inside my head Thats exactly what I want to do. As i'm on the otherside of the world a plug and play kit might be a tad expensive.

I did get it the remote display working last night.

http://i.imgur.com/NtGkwDrl.jpg?1

Just awaiting one last part before its on the apron

#1139 8 years ago

Whats the best/safest way to flatten the large background plastic behind the playfield?

You can see it here above and behind R2's head ( http://i.imgur.com/kEsXBm8l.jpg )

My top piece of plastic is bowed out due to the screw hole and the bolt being out of alignment and it just being forced in there . With this extra amount of pressure on it, the slightest touching it on either side will make it bow outwards. As its been held like that probably since it was made but it can catch on the main ramp when its lowered so i'd like to fix it before it gets snapped off.

I want to avoid damaging the paint on the rear of the plastic and/or causing any other weird warping by heating it.

Another question, is there anyway to stiffen up the pop bumper heads? I've had a look top and bottom and they seem to just float loosely(?) with no obvious things I need to tighten.

#1147 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

That plastic is supposed to be bowed out like that, my LAH is the same way. The pop bumper heads are supposed to work like that. There is nothing to tighten, if you notice the top of the bumper moves down when activated whereas other pop bumper caps stay unmoving.

Any idea as to why its supposed to be bowed? It actually gets pulled on by the ramp when the playfield is lifted so its not like its so that it clears anything by being bowed.

As for the bumpers .. ahh ok. I just wasn't sure if this was just because this machine has been so abused or that was its default. I'll give them a good thorough strip down and clean anyhow.

#1150 8 years ago
Quoted from node:

CRP have scans of someone's originals, I have no idea if they're actually working on it though - with Disney in charge though I'd imaging licensing Star Wars could be challenging/expensive.
Pinball Centre do repro plastics that are apparently good according to a few posters here. http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/star-wars/?p=2

I bought a set from a uk place. The edges were rough as hell. Looked like they'd been hand cut out with a hack saw. Pretty disappointed honestly. I'm going to have to sand them back and see if I can smooth them out myself Pretty bad for the extremely expensive price you have to pay for them. Might post pics later.

#1153 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Very easy to sand, lay sandpaper on table, hold plastic piece and sand away, this way the straight edges stay straight. The corners are the most difficult part. When done sand pieces with 1000 grit wet sandpaper while you are holding it under running water.

Great tip thanks!

#1157 8 years ago

For the sound crackle. Disconnect the speakers and/or sound board and see if it is still present.

I had a humming sound and it turned out to be my transformer plates humming. I carefully(?) tightened them and it went away.

As for your jabba plastic, the flat plastic with a picture of his guard on it should extend past the scoop and tapers towards the shooter exit lane. Do you have that part?

#1165 8 years ago

VERY nice!

Is that ... glitter? And is that powered coated then clear coated over the top? So shiny!

2 weeks later
#1180 8 years ago

Still trying to figure out the best way to stretch the image for my apron dmd. Blue outline was just for checking pixel alignment.

image.jpgimage.jpg

This is how it looks top aligned. I'd probably make a bezel that hides the bottom of the screen.
Otherwise I might see if there are other wide aspect ratio shape lcds available.

#1182 8 years ago

With the death star target (http://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=1590) is the switch that it uses just a genetic leaf switch (ie. something like this http://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=801 ) or is there something else special about it apart from the target size?

I'l looking at replacing it with a new custom target design so I don't want to destory/buy a death star specific switch if I don't need to.

#1190 8 years ago

Seconding that great diagnosis post. Good to see how you were about figuring it out.

#1194 8 years ago
Quoted from Pauz21:

Chadh made the code. He sells them I believe.

I don't think he's selling them anymore. I had purchased them from him only a couple of months ago however. Chad can correct me if i'm wrong on this.

"Please do not contact me to request purchasing ROMs. I will not be selling any ROMs. The patches on this web site are for you to use to modify your own game with your own equipment." - http://www.pinballcode.com/contact/

#1195 8 years ago

Just a little info that pintrix (

) has been updated to include the star wars de switch matrix!

https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/pintrix/id1017596411?mt=8

1 week later
#1198 8 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Welcome to the club! There is supposed to be a clear plastic behind Jabba to stop balls from hanging up. Check out this picture to see what it looks like.... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-wars-data-east-restoration-project#post-1074673
I didn't have any crackling in the sound but I did have a annoying hum/buzz in the speakers. The hum went away when I installed a Pinsound board to improve the audio track. I would check the volume control pot and associated wiring. Simply turning the volume all the way up and all the way down 20 times (with the machine off is fine) will sometimes be enough to clean a dirty pot.

Have just finished shopping my starwars and noticed that my Jabba doesn't have this clear plastic either.

The thing is, is doesn't seem to need it at all. On my machine that entire plastic along the left edge has a bend in it enough so that a ball could never balance behind jabba. I tried to manually balance a ball and couldnt find a single point where I could get i to sit. It either falls into the shooter lane or back onto the playfield. Is everyones big left plastic piece the same ie. slightly bent or is this another one of my machines particular quirks

Quoted from MustangPaul:

Very easy to sand, lay sandpaper on table, hold plastic piece and sand away, this way the straight edges stay straight. The corners are the most difficult part. When done sand pieces with 1000 grit wet sandpaper while you are holding it under running water.

I finally got around do doing my plastic pieces and just did it dry but on 2000 grit sand paper. They came out perfect and looks like its been flame polished The pieces ended up looking fantastic so I withdraw my previous bad comments about the supplier. The actual screen printing is very well done (couldn't really tell while their protective plastic was still on). It was just the edges I was disappointed in but this was a simple fix in the end.

1 month later
#1230 8 years ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

There was mention of a code update that Stern posted then took down because of licensing issues here
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/about-stern-and-commitment-to-code-releases#post-2810003
Does anyone know which version they are referring too?

edit:
It was the version prior to chads star wars rom. v1.04

He mentions the broken download link further down the thread

"Never. They no longer have that license, nor a means to get approval.
Remember how quickly the Star Wars upgrade got yanked off Stern's site?
http://www.sternpinball.com/downloads/SW12_PRO_english.zip"

The following was in the readme.

"V1.04 - December 19, 2012
=========================

- Added Freeze (ball save) on a 10 second timer.
- Ramp no longer collects Force Award.
- Climbing ramp bonus reduced.
- Relite Force Award via ramp normalized to every 5 shots.
- Lite Extra Ball ramp count logic changed.
- S in STAR WARS no longer spotted at beginning of ball
- Pop Bumper Sarlaac Value increased.
- Jabba Scoop will award Sarlaac Value plus Jabba Award when lit.
- Relite Relaunch logic now based on current ball time.
- Hitting Drop Targets bank once will relite Left Orbit when required.
- Chance to attain Extra Ball via Force Award increased.
- Required number of Pop Bumpers to collect AT-AT Walker mode reduced.
- Dark Side shot requirement increased.
- Shoot The Death Star remains active if was active during ball drain.
- Initial Tri-Ball Jackpot value increased.
- End Of Ball Bonus awards and maximum increased.
- Default high scores lowered.
- Combo and Super Combo awards increased.
- Sound calls added to Combo and Super Combo.
- Skill Shot audio stereo panning synchonized with display.
- Voice calls added to "This is no cave" shot.
- Sound and video added to Super Laser Kick Force Award.
- Left/Right Orbit Audits fixed.
- Force Award Audit fixed.

#1233 8 years ago

Oops ... corrected by the man himself

Seems that the stern download was actually chad's rom itself.

1 week later
#1245 8 years ago
Quoted from JFirenze:

My R2 unit isn't "bouncing" however, the head rotates fine. Anyone know what part controls the bouncing?

There is a coil below him that actually pulls him down when it fires. This is probably the root cause. Run through the coil tests and see if it fires (it probably won't). Check that he can freely bounce up and down just by pushing him down. There are two captured springs that push him back up. Make sure those have not broken. If he's in the down position nothing will happen (he may jiggle a little bit but not bounce).

You can totally remove him if you want to give the rest a clean by taking his head off (small nut on top). From memory there is a molex connector you can use to disconnect the lights. Pull that up through the big hold. Undo the two nuts holding down the captured springs and the entire mechanism will pop out (springs are under tentsion so keep a hold of them). Give the main shaft a good clean as it will probably have a bit of carbon on it (r2 has seen some shit!). (ps: dont use any sort of lube on that shaft!)

#1254 8 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

If all goes well... If I buy it sunday... and when/if I post a photo in the thread I will cut a batch of Chrome pop-cap decals.
:p

I grabbed some starwars and indy jones ones just before you shut up shop.

good luck hope it's a nice one and may the force be with you ;p

#1270 8 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

GREAT NEWS!!!! I am picking it up sunday
. "Sometimes periodically the DMD goes blank and then comes back."

I get that on mine on some boots but it does come on after a few seconds. I did do a dremel fix on it as I had 6 lines out previously so i'm not sure if i'd created another issue or if it was a rom issue which I did upgrade at the same time.

Another quick tip. If you plan on doing more than a quick playfield lift remove the jabba plastic. It touches the speaker panel when the playfield is in the up right position. The can result in a quickly broken plastic as the entire balancing weight is on a tiny bit of plastic.

#1293 8 years ago
Quoted from JFirenze:

That is the issue. Got a link to the part? I cant find a part number anywhere.

On page 31 of the manual the diagram shows it as # 8. "R2D2 unit" Part # 500-5484-00 how every i'd tip that is the entire R2 and not the soilenoid.

In the unique parts section there isn't anything that shows that coil mechanism.

I'll have a look when I get home but my guess would be that it could be the same as the pop bumpers but I can't find anything documenting that.

#1304 8 years ago
Quoted from JFirenze:

That is the issue. Got a link to the part? I cant find a part number anywhere.

ok flipped the pf and had a look.

http://imgur.com/a/hTHsZ

its part #090-5001-00 23-800 which is a standard coil http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1184

#1315 8 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

I'm in the club now...

Dsc_2147.jpg

I don't seem to remember Bart being in star wars .. but my memory is going so ...

#1318 8 years ago
Quoted from JFirenze:

Been doing some research about the factory play field for this game. Can't find if it was factory Diamond Plated or Clear Coated. Anyone know? Trying to figure out if Novus 2 to clean and Carnauba Wax to finish is the way to go. This is my first pin so I am hyper nervous about ruining it... and like everything, there is no clear out answer out there.

vacuum, Novus 1 if required and then blitz wax
Novus 2 if its REALLY bad.

From vid1900 : "Let's start with Novus, since they claim that 25% of their sales is to the Pinball industry.
What is Novus? It is a series of abrasive polishes, originally formulated for the plastics industry.
Yep, I said it; ABRASIVE.
Novus wears down your playfield coatings; Paint, Lacquer or clearcoat.
Novus #3 is a very abrasive cream. It is used to polish out deep scratches. It is so abrasive, that you need to use Novus #2 to remove all the scratches that #3 creates. This is probably the least used of all the Novus products as far as pinball goes.
Novus #2 is an abrasive cream. It is a much finer polish that leaves a really shiny finish on many materials. It does a nice job of polishing out fine scratches. It is NOT a wax. You can't build up layers of it. It does not protect the playfield.
Novus #1 is a mixture of alcohol, water and suspended waxes. It's not really a polish (it contains no abrasives), it's more of a cleaner that leaves behind a very slightly waxed surface. It slightly repels dust and fingerprints for a short period of time."

linky : https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-and-waxing-pinball-machines-vids-guide#post-2655282

#1333 8 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

The studs are cheap and available on marco for example. I have not shopped my DE:SW yet so I cant recall if the studs are screwed in or if they use T-nuts.
tnut.jpg

Mine has tnuts that then have a screw holding them in. I seem to have an unusual machine with lots if thing different so your may not

#1336 8 years ago
Quoted from JFirenze:

Thought I would leave this here: http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album579?page=1
Playfield restoration. Crazy good work.

Very nice. Any ball park figures on how much this sort of thing costs?

The pf as originally delivered didn't seem too bad. No Leia beard

edit: the website games some ideas to price ...

$1000 at games arrival. *snip*
$2000-$4000 is due at teardown. *snip*
$$$$ Final payment is due as the game nears completion

#1364 8 years ago
Quoted from JFirenze:

Oh sorry I misunderstood. One popped up on ebay a few weeks go. Went for $90ish. I am looking for the clips for mine. Can't find em anywhere.

Sorry to tell you but the clips are made from unobtainium. They only exist with panels.

I ended up making some from Williams steel clips. Trimmed to ends and drilled the holes to fit. Incidentally it seems as if the drill holes were all done by hand as between my two de machines all four clips have different hole locations.

I was considering making up some but it's not really worth it as its a fairly easy part to make with a dremel or angle grinder.

As for yellowing r2. Best bet would be bleaching the plastic back to white in a solution. There was mention of the exact technique in one of vids restoration threads.

#1369 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

GOOD LORD.....where did ya find that...does it talk too?

"I find your lack of funk disturbing"

http://i.imgur.com/dcxFYHg.gif

#1392 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hey now, I was out and about in the disco era, what a blast.

darth disco ball, pinsound and this (

) as its modded theme music.

Quoted from KBRI1700:

Putting holes unnecessary into the machine is something I wouldn't advocate.
Tilttopper is developing a StarWars topper
"I actually do have a design in the works for a DE Star Wars Topper. I plan to release it in the next few months"
In the interim I have purchased "Star Wars 3D Night Light - Darth Vader" available from Target in Australia.
http://www.target.com.au/p/star-wars-3d-night-light-darth-vader/57975252

I've done EXACTLY the same thing! I'm awaiting my comet matrix lights ("Your item was processed through a facility in AUSTRALIA on December 17, 2015 at 11:08 am. The item is currently in transit to the destination.") so I can hook it up.
I made up a fairly crappy cross onto which I used the standard screw holes. It will then mounted into the existing topper screw holes. I'll have to make a small hole in the head mesh to feed the led light power through. The intention would be to pick one of the head flashing modules. The option I thought about was looking for any lights that specifically come up during the "come to the dark side" callout. Maybe both!

1 week later
#1415 8 years ago
Quoted from jimbo16:

I need to see how it looks propped up. To keep it in the upright position to work on it.

Its quite easy.

#1 Remove the right side jabba plastic. Its just 2 screws. This is preventative and may not be necessary but you can check this later. Better to remove it now than have it break later!

#2 Grab the playfield by the middle of the apron/arch (Data east symbol). Lift if directly up. Don't pull the playfield towards you if you want to have it in the upright position.

sw_lift1_(resized).jpgsw_lift1_(resized).jpg

While lifting you might hear plastic scratching. This is just the rear of the playfield on the cable wrap.

sw_lift2_(resized).jpgsw_lift2_(resized).jpg

Continue lifting the playfield towards the head. Do your best to not rotate the playfield to any particular side. This cabinet doesn't have hooks on the playfield rails that stop it from moving.

Once the end of the play field is at around chest height you might instinctively grab it by the two metal support posts. DON'T! Data east's have terrible stock supports until you get used to how well they are attached don't use them right now.

Lift playfield the remainder of the way to vertical using the edge of the play field near the apron/sides.

sw_lift3_(resized).jpgsw_lift3_(resized).jpg

You should now be able to walk to the left side of the cabinet.

Look to the bottom of the cabinet. There should be an orange sticker. Just near it will be a rubber stretch cable around 3" long attached to the bottom of the cabinet.

sw_lift5_(resized).jpgsw_lift5_(resized).jpg

With your right hand grab it and pull towards the bottom of the playfield. Doing this will give you a clue as to where to hook it. You should find an eyelet on the underside of the cabinet that you can hook it to. It may be hidden by some of the wiring.

sw_lift6_(resized).jpgsw_lift6_(resized).jpg

Pull the rubber and you should be able to get it to hook on easily.

sw_lift7_(resized).jpgsw_lift7_(resized).jpg

Your playfield is now safe to work on.

sw_lift8_(resized).jpgsw_lift8_(resized).jpg

Now its up you can check the supports and how well they are attached. Also have a look at the inside rails so you can understand how and why you need to be careful when lifting.

sw_lift4_(resized).jpgsw_lift4_(resized).jpg

Double check your jabba clearance with the head. Does the plastic touch? If you you'll need to remove it or risk accidental bending it each time.

jabba clearancejabba clearance

Mine touches as my plastic goes higher than the wooden support behind it (which just clears in the photo above). The issue is that the playfield will still move while its hooked. It is only a rubber strap

#1419 8 years ago

oh. I also forgot one thing (just adding it for any other first timers).

"Remove your balls before lifting the playfield"
I've done it myself when i've forgotten to take them out. Bang! O_O

You can manually kick out the balls when the power is off by rotating the kick out arm.

ball_arm_(resized).jpgball_arm_(resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#1482 8 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Why yes, yes I do...

Nice! Thats the "Harrison Ford" double

I have these two aswell.

#1488 8 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Hey guys, a while back I asked about the brackets that the leg bolts screw into. Well, I ordered a couple types from pinball life and we have a perfect match! The new brackets have more threads and should outlast the machine!
This is the part I ordered. It came with the 3 small holes as in my picture, not with a single hole as in Pinball Life's picture. http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=858
image_(resized).jpeg

I actually used the williams style ones (http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/01-11400-1.html ) and they fit fine and are a fair bit stronger. When I do my cabinet resto I'll be adding these also to the outsides ( http://www.johns-arcade.com/#!product-page/c1cs/237c0859-05c6-3b0c-ce9e-76af5bb8b0a8 )

1 week later
#1506 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Yeah he knows what he's got.

The clips themselves are made from unobtainium

They don't even have a part number.

The think i noticed with them was that they seemed to be unique to each speaker panel. I have a JP also and compared my sw ones to it and their screw offsets were totally different. Even left to right they are different. I hazard a guess that the clips got shoved in and then a screw was forced through the plastic itself.

#1509 8 years ago
Quoted from Tim_may:

Mine are the same way.
You can make a set of brackets with a 3D printer.

Not having a printer myself I shopped around this idea to some printing companies with the idea to make quite a few. Turned it waaaay to expensive for me to justify.

I ended up using stock williams steel ones and putting them in reversed with a small amount of steel cut off.

1 week later
#1532 8 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Wow, what a great looking machine! Was your playfield clearcoated? It looks much smoother and shinier than mine...

I think its a playfield protector not the glass. Look around the rubbers and you can see the outline of the makrolon poly.

#1533 8 years ago
Quoted from jedimastermatt:

BTW - No prequel or sequel cues are present in this mix. Just the original trilogy. So, if you want your Duel of the Fates and Battle of the Heros, this isn't for you. I will admit that The Force Awakens did cause me to come back immediately to my mix and add Burning Homestead into the group of attract mode cues.

I'd watch other pinsound videos using duel etc and it just seems so wrong glad you left it to OT only

2 weeks later
#1572 8 years ago
Quoted from RDReynolds:

So what is the point of Speeder mode? Am I missing something or do you just hit the fire button a million times to get 10m points?

Nope you've figured it out. Nothing to it unfortunately.

CHad H rediscovered the prototype speeder mode that would have been much better (video was posted quite a few pages back).

#1583 8 years ago
Quoted from surfajl77:

I have a question. I'm getting some rattle/muffled spots whenever I have my sound turned up on my Star Wars DE - especially when the sub starts booming. It seems to be coming from the backglass above the speakers, but I also sometimes locate it on the playfield glass sides. I have been doing some research and while I can't really get any clear cut advice about what to do, it seems like the best solution would be getting some anti rattle tape. Has anyone done this before?
Unless I'm mistaken, I believe this involves placing anti rattle tape around the edges of the playfield glass and then reinserting it. I suppose I can also do the same thing with the backglass - as the rattling usually comes from the bottom of the backglass where the trim lift sits.
Thoughts?

I wouldn't have thought the playfield glass would move due to sound vibration due to the lock down bars beer seal. They normally press down quite well. If you put your hand onto the playfield glass does it stop? If so then just replace your seal on the lock down.

The backglass however, hmm not sure.

#1595 8 years ago

That r2 is awesome! Did you have contact details for the guy?

For the beer seal you can just use this sort of thing -> http://www.bunnings.com.au/moroday-6-4-x-25mm-x-3m-garage-weatherseal_p4114621

2 weeks later
#1626 8 years ago
Quoted from surfajl77:

Might be a silly question, but is there an option in the service mode it will allow me to eject the pinballs?

You have a specific reason to do that?

You could run a check on that particular coil and that will throw out a ball into the launcher lane.

If you're already fiddling with the settings means the door is open, so just manually rotate the ball launcher arm.

#1644 8 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Oh man, sorry guys but I have to leave the club, I sold my game this weekend. Keep the good vibes going, it's a great game.

gah! Group OP has left the building!

4 months later
#1800 7 years ago
Quoted from KBRI1700:

Would love to see the landspeeder video mode incorporated some day.

This would be the holy grail of rom updates for this machine I think!

It will give some actual, half decent purpose to the shifter.

I wonder if it is possible to make different game modes for that.
A "simple" up down controllable trench run sort of thing would be awesome!

2 months later
#1884 7 years ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

Anyone ever consider a mod to make the pop caps less susceptible to cracking? They take a beating -- 1 year in and the one I operate already needs 4 new caps. Thinking about foam or rubber somewhere...

Rubber grommets at both the top and bottom of where the screw touches the caps?

2 months later
#2004 7 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

I have just released a minor update for my Star Wars patch! The new version is 1.07.

Thanks chad! Once again showing how much can still be fixed on this pin

"Start of Jedi Return no longer plays jackpot sound effect since there is no jackpot collected at this moment."

2 weeks later
#2015 7 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

Whew, good luck as they're almost impossible to come by. Be careful as some of the reproductions are really crummy.
Someone mentioned in this thread that there was a third party product that some people were taking apart a Death Star toy and using it instead of a plastic.

Exactly, I've never seen ones available. I seem to have an inverted mould version of the death star (same as the one here : http://www.pinballcode.com/gallery/star-wars/18403758 ). I always wondered if it would be possible to mould new ones from it. The inside is quite detailed.

#2023 7 years ago
Quoted from TimberOne:

Ok, I will check out those suggestions and thank you!
Btw, any comments on that full mylar playfield protector? Does it hold up, where do you get it? My game is in great condition but the playfield is matted in finish (losing its shine) so thought it might be a good addition.

Protectors are fine.

Some people like them others do not.

They just sit on the playfield and aren't glued down or anything so fairly easy to remove. You just have to remove some ramps/flippers etc.

I have one on my star wars and hobbit (factory installed). If you install it just manually remove the swarf from the edges. This makes a much cleaner install and stops little bits getting under the playfield. edit: apparently new ones dont have this anymore.

Is is a cheap and easy way to get that "newly cleared playfield" experience without the cost and 100 times less effort. Nothing will beat a full restoration however so this is a good compromise to protect a wearing or damaged playfield.

From memory I just got it off ebay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Playfield-Protector-for-Data-East-Star-Wars-Pinball-Machine-/131965923024?hash=item1eb9c82ed0:g:Cf8AAOSwMmBVjGiI) but I am sure there are probably other online pinball stores that sell it also.

1 week later
#2031 7 years ago
Quoted from kapsreiter:

may be someone from europe is interested in a High End Star Wars
ebay.com link » Flipper Star Wars Restauriert High End Colordmd Pinsound Chrome

I'll soon be doing a full restore on mine.

I had always intended on doing a standard blue version but that black one doesn't look too bad.

What do people think is better? http://www.strawpoll.me/12135465 Original blue or black?

3 weeks later
#2085 7 years ago
Quoted from Psw757:

Does anyone make these ramps currently?

No, there was a guy that did a run of repro versions but that was about 2 years ago.

I asked about it a year ago but go no response on the replacement ones, someone did offer to tig weld broken ones though.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gauging-interest-on-replacement-desw-ss-ramps

1 week later
#2104 7 years ago
Quoted from TimberOne:

My desw is really looking good now from a pretty major referb. Now the cabinet is the only thing that is bothering me. I am thinking of repainting it. Considering the black theme. Whats everyone think? Keep the classic blue or black? That one that Hasi posted looks really nice, especially with the chrome metal!

I asked about this before. I'm still undecided.

http://www.strawpoll.me/12135465

2 weeks later
#2121 7 years ago
Quoted from shicketmaster:

Anyone have photos of the tilt game blades installed in Star Wars?

http://www.tiltgraphicsinc.com/product-page/star-wars-gameblades

I don't personally like them.

Tiled R2. hmm. Perhaps something more like a space battle with x-wings/tie fighters would have been better.

#2123 7 years ago
Quoted from comment23:

There's probably only so much you can do without acquiring the license.....

True. R2 has a pretty iconic design though.

1 week later
#2151 7 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

It is a thankless job.

Not totally true. You can achieve guaranteed fame and fortune!*

Quite a few people have thanked ChadH for both his fantastic work on multiple starwars updated aswell as very well received JP and TFTC updates. He's also provided information on long hidden rom items (ie. speeder mode). Probably one of the best things to happen to these old pins in a VERY long time!

His site here : http://www.pinballcode.com/

*only pinball fame applies to this guarantee

#2160 7 years ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

just dont use the phantom menace song at the beginning with the skill shot, that sacrilege and so many people do

OT OST only in my books

If you want ep 1 music go play swep1

1 week later
#2209 6 years ago

My desw playfield restore (by Savage restorations) has just been completed!

Almost too nice to put back in a machine and hide all the art work.

Before

Massive S T A R W A R S lettering damageMassive S T A R W A R S lettering damage
Hole and insert lifting inserts/paint damageHole and insert lifting inserts/paint damage

After

mmmmmm
That lettering looks sooo good!That lettering looks sooo good!
Shiny!Shiny!
Check out the shooter lane!Check out the shooter lane!

#2219 6 years ago
Quoted from shicketmaster:

I love the blue shooter lane. I wonder how that will hold up over time.

Wear-wise i'm hoping it should be ok seeing it has more than 1/2 a dozen coats of clear on it.

I'll still see if I can put a cliffy on where the ball is kicked into the lane to protect against cracking. Does anyone on if any of the generic eject protectors fit a desw shooterlane?

#2225 6 years ago
Quoted from tatman9999:

Joined the club again. Started to clean up and painted some of the blue. Playfield is getting clear coated.

What blue is that?

#2231 6 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Impressive!... most impressive!

Many DESW's died to bring you this! Surely they could have murdered some other pin? Perhaps a star trek?

#2240 6 years ago

I've combed through some of my old photos and found this secret sauce from another user that claimed it is the right color that your local pro paint shop can mix up. I just wanted to compare yours to see how accurate it was.

I'd suggest a small sample pot and try it underneath the cab at the back first.

starwars_color_koops (resized).JPGstarwars_color_koops (resized).JPG

#2245 6 years ago

O_O ... lol wow! From your pics it does seem like a decent match. How does it compare to the unsprayed blue on the head that you taped off?

#2259 6 years ago
Quoted from alistaircg:

Retouched High resolution Star Wars Translite, hosted on an independent server http://nitroflare.com/view/F303993C8A3FA9F/Star_wars_655mm_X_570mm_-_02_Final.tif
I lay no claim to ownership or copyright. Its just a fan picture thats freely available for private use

Something is wrong with that file.

edit : ahh its a link to a download page and not the file itself. Downloaded fine

1 week later
#2296 6 years ago

Has anyone know a full list of all the required replacement lamp sockets on a desw playfield?

I'm gathering parts for my playfield swap and don't know what sockets to order without ripping apart the existing pf before I'm ready.

2 months later
#2391 6 years ago


Quoted from alistaircg:I have a problem, the game starts up , i hear Obi Wan say "may the force be with you"the GI lights up, and then nothing
No DMD, nothing else happens
Help me Obi Wan Knobi's</blockquote
Can you start a game? It could just be the dmd.
Mine is sometimes slow to start up but does eventually come on ~1 min or so.

Added over 7 years ago:

Quoted from alistaircg:I have a problem, the game starts up , i hear Obi Wan say "may the force be with you"the GI lights up, and then nothing
No DMD, nothing else happens
Help me Obi Wan Knobi's

Can you start a game? It could just be the dmd.

Mine is sometimes slow to start up but does eventually come on ~1 min or so.

1 month later
#2410 6 years ago
Quoted from pinballwil:

The Data East SW remake is ready to play.
Unofficial 1.07 rom with stock DE hardware.
You have to destroy the deflector schield by shooting the kickback at the right side between the ramp and scoop.
Then the death Star lift ramp (left) opens for multibal (under the death star ).

Does the lcd interact with game play?

Is the dmd below it still used or its just reuse of the speaker panel.

2 months later
#2435 6 years ago

I have a weird issue in which my 3po lights switch eyes when ever a flipper button is pressed.

This has only started since I put in my colordmd.

I've had a look to make sure there wasn't anything else touching the light sockets or anything like that but i was sure the lights didn't switch before.

Am i going crazy and this is the normal behaviour? It had been a while since i'd played it but surely not?

#2436 6 years ago
Quoted from KBRI1700:

Well it is getting close for the completion my Star Wars DE.
I am having it professionally restored and will be completed in a few weeks time.
Here are some prior photographs for the pinball machine:

Very nice. You chose the black decals instead of the stock ones?

Full bling chromed trim, lockdown, coin door?

#2438 6 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Note: C3PO's eye's alternate with the flippers when one eye is lit.

Thanks. I've never honestly noticed that before. I wonder if that is a chad software thing or was in the original rom.

#2444 6 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

If your C-3PO eyes are alternating with flipper hits then that tells me you are running v1.04 or older... I recommend you upgrade to v.1.07 and take advantage of all the newer stuff.
http://www.pinballcode.com/sw107

You're right.

IMG_1706 (resized).JPGIMG_1706 (resized).JPG

I checked my notes and it was burnt by you just before you stopped doing it for people

I'll have to find someone local that can burn a newer one.

#2449 6 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

And get some nvram in that ASAP!!! Easiest and most underrated mod of all imho

Yeah the main problem is my location.

Postage sucks badly :/

10 months later
#2727 5 years ago
Quoted from lucidhate:

Hey everyone, has there been any attempt to 3D print R2D2’s body? Mines getting brittle and I’d rather try and find a solution before it breaks. Thanks!

I wonder if there is any demand for this to make it worth while.
I don't personally need one though so I'd need a good reason to spend time on it.

I just had a look at mine and the geometry seems fairly simple. Might take 3-4 hours of modelling including revisions.
Depending on how long it takes to make I may just put it up on thingiverse.
If you were to print one yourself I'd suggest hand sanding it, priming and then doing a top coat of white paint otherwise it will look like a cheap 3d print (which it would be ). Sanding and priming can remove the visible layers. Example below.

IMG_4169 (resized).JPGIMG_4169 (resized).JPG

My only issue is that I have a prototype machine so i'll have to get someone to look at the pics of my r2 and see if it matches a production machines r2.
My R2 head itself is significantly different (seems hand made) but I don't think that should be an issue for the body.

#2734 5 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Yeah if it’s accurate, you would sell out. Not sure if a single person has a perfect R2D2 dome and couldn’t use a backup

Not the dome just the body. I don't have a reference for the head so couldn't do one.

This is mine.

IMG_4192 (resized).JPGIMG_4192 (resized).JPG

3 weeks later
#2755 5 years ago

Does anyone make ball eject protectors for sw? I couldn't find any apart from the normal hole protectors from cliffy.

3 months later
#2891 5 years ago
Quoted from cabuford:

I went a little overboard and did red caps, translucent red bodies and red discs, as well as red LEDs with a down firing white, stickers and the AT-AT mod meant for the Stern machine. I think I've posted most of this before. The originals were so loud. I still have all the parts in the coinbox if I ever decide to sell. [quoted image]

Does this mean your pops don’t move the tops like normal desw ones? I always wondered if they could be replaced with more modern ones.

Would be interested in a video of that! I’d consider doing it to my own machine!

#2899 5 years ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

I need the blue cabinet paint code. Who’s holdin’? Thanks!

Found this from a previous owner years ago. I had it saved for when I repaint my own cab.

I don’t vouch for its accuracy but here it is regardless
64518491-8FF6-4104-99C3-719102952396 (resized).jpeg64518491-8FF6-4104-99C3-719102952396 (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#2907 5 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Those pictures from my post is your step by step guide. Marcos sells a similar parts (listed below) as the originals are never in stock. Your gonna need a dremel and superglue or something else that bonds plastic

I am curious to why the frankensteining? unavailability of the parts or some other reason?

10 months later
#3341 4 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

wolfemaaan

Yoda feature is their... chose lift are right award.
I believe "Jedi Return" is from one of the "Force" awards.
Easter egg time...
R2D2 Runaway = 15 Million
Super R2D2 = 50 Million
Super Duper R2D2 = 90 Million [not used] junk code, just a bit of snippets.
----------------
Playfield change... A round clear starburst lens removed from the left
--- kick-out hole below the Jedi arrow lamp #41.
--- Again, too many ideas had to be cut.
--- The agony of having only 64 lamps.
--- I hope to get a CPR playfield and have the lens added back.
Note of interest: Data East Star Wars is like Data East TMNT for award features.

know anything else about the missing modes as listed on the apron stickers?

#3370 4 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Not my game. I wish! A guy sent me these pictures years ago.

I also have one of these. Unsure if it’s an actual prototype vs early production but I have everything that is in your prototype gallery.

Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Ok, I’m going to put out an ad & APB looking for a DESW prototype rom if it exists. I also sent and email to Lonnie Ropp. If anybody knows it would be him. It would be like finding the grail no doubt, but we won’t know it even exists in working order until we look.

Prior to upgrading my roms to chadh’s is there a way I can tell my looking at the old roms? I think I still have them in my spare part boxes.

#3374 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Yeah if you find out it is, you’re gonna want to safely make a copy of it
Also, can you post some pictures of your pinball machine, including the main playfield?

I’ll have to take some new ones but this is what I have already uploaded elsewhere.

The Death Star also has an “inverted texture”.

https://i.imgur.com/XUQU6Tv.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/v05QEWI.mp4

#3377 4 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Question. Does your game have the three position "T" handle
or two position "T" handle?

2 position.

Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Yeah if you find out it is, you’re gonna want to safely make a copy of it
Also, can you post some pictures of your pinball machine, including the main playfield?

Looks like I’m out of luck on the rom. 1.03. No old roms in coin box

Anything of specific interest on the playfield you want a pic of?

I can’t quite make out the date stamp on the playfield.

Mine should shows :
the different apron stickers
previous instruction card that mentions the speeder mode
White starwars inserts
Curved xwing and hyperspace plastics
Rough looking r2
Smooth Death Star (inside has the normal external texture).

16437F6A-BC2F-4FB8-A98E-594B73AC7ABE (resized).jpeg16437F6A-BC2F-4FB8-A98E-594B73AC7ABE (resized).jpeg43770092-A6BE-4868-8887-E39034B33FF0 (resized).jpeg43770092-A6BE-4868-8887-E39034B33FF0 (resized).jpeg03288312-DD4A-4093-B609-689D2A8DA86F (resized).jpeg03288312-DD4A-4093-B609-689D2A8DA86F (resized).jpeg77137FEF-A3D3-407D-8613-781BA79E6849 (resized).jpeg77137FEF-A3D3-407D-8613-781BA79E6849 (resized).jpeg56BB68CC-CCC0-4FA5-8406-2CD5723D72F2 (resized).jpeg56BB68CC-CCC0-4FA5-8406-2CD5723D72F2 (resized).jpegABD409A5-C4D8-4B9F-860B-00FB2C3EFEC3 (resized).jpegABD409A5-C4D8-4B9F-860B-00FB2C3EFEC3 (resized).jpeg129DD885-D617-4D35-84BA-002F52B5F2B4 (resized).jpeg129DD885-D617-4D35-84BA-002F52B5F2B4 (resized).jpeg0C0261DB-4438-4122-8FE7-E83DC276E824 (resized).jpeg0C0261DB-4438-4122-8FE7-E83DC276E824 (resized).jpeg6A322236-1B77-4F05-AF77-1819D05E78FD (resized).jpeg6A322236-1B77-4F05-AF77-1819D05E78FD (resized).jpeg2D92F377-7C8F-4DD0-9B7A-1FBE187BE080 (resized).jpeg2D92F377-7C8F-4DD0-9B7A-1FBE187BE080 (resized).jpegD2079FC6-AF46-4829-AE24-0459258002F2 (resized).jpegD2079FC6-AF46-4829-AE24-0459258002F2 (resized).jpeg4FE7C12F-CA29-4912-A3EF-07162C8016DF (resized).jpeg4FE7C12F-CA29-4912-A3EF-07162C8016DF (resized).jpegD6E3EE53-6A50-4065-B8F3-F36DD1315CE5 (resized).jpegD6E3EE53-6A50-4065-B8F3-F36DD1315CE5 (resized).jpeg3FB2D86D-0B73-4351-B646-4D279BD13C38 (resized).jpeg3FB2D86D-0B73-4351-B646-4D279BD13C38 (resized).jpegAA438BDD-3DE4-48BA-98DB-0E63E2C831DF (resized).jpegAA438BDD-3DE4-48BA-98DB-0E63E2C831DF (resized).jpegAE663A12-B9A4-40D3-A26E-32AA1EBB8813 (resized).jpegAE663A12-B9A4-40D3-A26E-32AA1EBB8813 (resized).jpeg
#3383 4 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Thank you koops for posting, fantastic pictures.
Date stamp: September 05 1992.
I wonder what serial number your game is?

I did have a look but didn’t photograph it.

The thing I don’t quite understand is that my machine is Australian marked. I would have though prototype/early production ones would have all be US models.

2 weeks later
#3400 4 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

Very true! The original ROM I worked off of only had about 500 bytes of free space. That's one half of one kilobyte. I packed as much as I could in there for my updates.
Although, since Star Wars was my first venture into the code update world, I have done several more games and I have since learned a lot more details about how everything works. I could probably squeeze even more in if I basically looked at my notes and started over. I may do this someday.
I appreciate the talks of gofundme's but I would never do that. This is all about a fun hobby in our free time. If someone wants to send over a donation after the fact, then that is much appreciated.
While I have seen the code and video assets for the Speeder Bike video mode, I have not yet found any thing for a Death Star Trench run (other than the instruction references on the prototype aprons) or a Luke/Vader Light Saber battle (again, other than the reference on the prototype aprons). I suppose the video animation played of Luke/Vader battling while hitting a shot in Jedi Returns mode might have originally been from this missing mode?
Has anyone else actually seen playable versions of these two elusive video modes? Or were they scrapped early on and never saw the light of day?
Does anyone have a prototype ROM with these modes in them? If so, PM me and I can try to make it happen.

Guy on Facebook claims to have one with the speeder code!

“Good afternoon... I happen to have a Star Wars Data East in perfect working order and condition. It is a prototype as it has the speeder bike video mode not on the production model. It is about 3/4 LEDd. Some lights could not get to and did not want to disassemble. Happy to send videos.”- https://www.facebook.com/benjamin.delong.3

Need to act fast as he was selling the machine to someone and then it will probably be lost/gone.

#3403 4 years ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

Good eye. Anybody want to contact him? I doubt he will be willing to remove the ROM but maybe his buyer might?

Should see if there is a us based pinsider localish that could make the trip and help out?

I’m worried this is the one chance we get (New owner could upgrade and might not realise what they have) and it will be gone because someone couldn’t be bothered. Would gladly help out if needed to pay for some fuel/time for a road trip.

#3408 4 years ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

NM, I found it. He tagged on a wanted ad. I sent him a message as well for proof. If it’s legit, I’ll straight up buy it for the chip as long as it’s reasonable. The machine can be resold later as a nice prototype

or keep it and sell your standard production one ;p

#3410 4 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I worry that it is the same old program...
The game has to have three different changes
in order to be a prototype...
1) The display ROM has to be different.
2) The CPU game software ROM has to be different.
3) The cabinet "T" control has to be different.
and in addition, but not as important,
4) The card tray has to have the prototype decals.

He's claiming it shows the speeder mode.

So i'm not disagreeing that it may not be a 100% pure (to your definition of how the prototypes differed from production) rather but might be good enough for ChadH's investigation of possibly "adding the mode back in".

1 month later
#3464 3 years ago
Quoted from mizzou:

Can anybody confirm where the posts that hold up the marquee over the ramp goes? O bought this from a gentleman who had it "professionally gone over" by TNT....smh..[quoted image][quoted image]

Such a bad design. Metal -> plastic -> metal

I have an added protector that gives it more strength.
2E52AEB9-B22A-40C5-9607-BFBB326BA37C (resized).jpeg2E52AEB9-B22A-40C5-9607-BFBB326BA37C (resized).jpeg

#3480 3 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

I am looking.
The major hurdle I have to try to overcome is that I need more free space to fit the Speeder Mode code. And I need a lot. Like close to 1 kilobyte. Considering the entire space available for game code is 48 kilobytes... this means 1 kilobyte is relatively a lot.
Bottom line is I have to rip something out in order to be able to add Speeder Mode.
I've been analyzing the code and I see a lot of space is taken by all the Playfield Light Show routines/data.
I >may< have to rip out some Playfield Light Shows to be able to make room for Speeder Mode.
There are 16 Playfield Light Shows in the code. The good news is that two of them are completely unused so really only 14 are in game... and then there are a couple light shows that are only ever played during Attract Mode. And there are two separate light shows that are almost identical which is a waste of space. So possibly I can start with yanking those and using their space for Speeder Mode. But I think I need to dig deeper and remove even more of them.
Would you guys be OK if the amount of different Playfield Light Shows was reduced in order to be able to add full Speeder Mode? The game would still play the Playfield Light Shows as it does today, it would just not have as many different ones. Meaning... instead of the game overall having a variety of 14 light shows, it would instead have a variety of maybe 6 to 8.

Anything else that could be ditched to free up space?

The coming soon rocky and bullwinkle stuff etc?

question, what sets the limitation in size? Can larger rom's be used?

3 weeks later
#3534 3 years ago
Quoted from robertg130:

Hi guys is there a R2D2 head available,maybe repro or maybe from some toy you can use it
Thanks

Have never seen anything. Havn't seen a toy used as the blue areas are transparent so that the flasher shows through.

3 weeks later
#3554 3 years ago
Quoted from dmeca12:

Can't seem to find a plastic set anywhere. Am I blind?

its even local to us so shipping is cheap.

https://www.rtbb.com.au/product/star-wars-de-cpr-reproduction-plastics-set-w-3d-desktop-display/

2 weeks later
#3581 3 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

OMG!! Great way to start a fire! lol

That's how they came from the factory. Playfield is wood and so is the cabinet. That lamp holder is a low fire risk.

#3584 3 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Alright attached now to solder the wires on but this light socket may not work, only has one leg on it..
[quoted image][quoted image]

Have access to a 3d printer? I'd probably just make a backing block so it had something to hold the insert.

6 months later
#3766 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Initial impression is good and I have not even updated code yet.
[quoted image]

Could you do this club a HUGE favor and check the version that it originally came with.

There is a early version that includes some code that Chadh has been looking to obtain for quite some time.

Its a long shot but always worth asking when a machine with very old code shows up. Its probably unlikely as I cant see any of the beta/early production typical items (clear star wars letters, curved drop target plastic etc).

We've been asking quite a few people but have yep to stumble upon someone that actually has it.

6 months later
#4007 2 years ago

edt: i must have just been delusional

#4015 2 years ago
Quoted from mcmnky:

Where does DESW fall in the history of SW pins? I find there was an Empire Strikes Back game released in 1980, the Sonic SW in 87, then Data East in 92. Then I don't see anything until the late 90s. Did I miss any?
I'm surprised with how big the film was at the time there wasn't one for the first movie and not a release for Jedi. Just those 3 for the first 15 years?

Thats all of them.

https://pinside.com/pinball/machine?token=&query=star+wars
Empire - https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2868

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