(Topic ID: 72482)

Data East Star Wars Club...Members & Fans Welcome.


By MustangPaul

5 years ago



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  • 3,229 posts
  • 291 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by oradke
  • Topic is favorited by 138 Pinsiders

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#1742 3 years ago

They look better that way. I tried them both ways in mine.

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#1748 3 years ago

Thanks for the kind words. I used Cointakers frosted except for the tie-fighter, Pinball Life red. The Cointakers were too bright there.

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3 weeks later
#1755 3 years ago

Warm white frosted might be more to your liking. Should be no noticeable bleed to the cool whites.

2 weeks later
#1798 3 years ago

+1. Something like in LW3, hit the fire button at a certain time for points.

3 weeks later
#1813 3 years ago

I had the same problem after I removed my apron for some playfield cleaning. What I discovered after reflowing solder, adjusting switches etc., there is a wire gate inside (attached too) the plastic apron that was hanging up. I bent the leg that makes it one-way, a bit so it did not rub on the plastic anymore. That fixed it for me.

Quoted from Vader77:I'm talking about the drain kick to the trough. I'll check the manual, I just replaced what was there could easily be wrong one. Thanks!
Color dmd looks killer, btw!! I want one!

Quoted from Vader77:

I'm talking about the drain kick to the trough. I'll check the manual, I just replaced what was there could easily be wrong one. Thanks!
Color dmd looks killer, btw!! I want one!

2 weeks later
#1856 3 years ago

Pinball life has "sega/stern" black legs for $47 a set. I have a sega Godzilla and the legs look the same but they could have been replaced before I got it. They look right but maybe call them and ask.

#1857 3 years ago

Just checked my DESW and the legs are 28 1/2" not 30 1/2" so the ones I told you above aren't right. The correct leg part number from the Star Wars manual is 535-5020-30.

8 months later
#2312 2 years ago
Quoted from beepbeep:

Repair question...I have a couple pop bumpers that are not working correctly when the ball hits them nothing happens....any adjustments that can me made or do I need to rebuild them or just fix a couple parts? Also it seems the force chute doesn't eject the ball when it should in some cases, then the machine goes into ball find mode can any one tell me what needs to fix here?

The force chute problem sounds like the switch (not the coil) that recognizes the ball has a broken wire or diode on it OR the switch needs adjusting. Make sure the wiring is secure and that the diode is still attached. I have had this issue before (on other games). Hope that helps.

7 months later
#2482 1 year ago

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1 month later
#2525 1 year ago
Quoted from NoMonkey:

If there are any other must-have mods, let me know!

Color DMD?

6 months later
#2696 1 year ago

Hope these help. Looks like you have it right. I just confirmed that R2's arm does hit the clear plastic but it (the plastic) floats in the back so it has enough play in it.

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3 months later
#2795 9 months ago

There is a good thread on here on removing Mylar, I think it's titled "removing Mylar mastered". Few different methods, freeze method which is canned air (dust blaster) turned upside down, heat method which is a heat gun (or hair dryer) just be real careful to not melt your plastics (done that...). Read up on it before you start so you don't damage your playfield, lift off insert art, or damage plastics.

For coil sleeves, if you have the manual, the part numbers for each coil sleeve should be listed and you can search for them on Marco or Pinball life. PDF of manual should be on IPDB.

1 week later
#2826 9 months ago

Double check your connections, sounds like you may have connectors on the wrong headers or off by a pin or maybe upside down? Not all of them are keyed if I remember correctly.

7 months later
#3210 39 days ago

Sounds like a ghosting LED. Try putting a regular incandescent bulb in that spot and see if it stops. Then you can order some non-ghosting LED's and that should do the trick.

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