(Topic ID: 72482)

Data East Star Wars Club...Members & Fans Welcome.

By MustangPaul

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by vec-tor
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jfirenze.
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#1244 8 years ago

Hey all!

I just got my DESW yesterday and I am loving it. A few questions for the group:

My translite, while original, isn't in the best of shape. Has anyone purchased one of these repros from "ClassicArcades" off ebay?
If so, how do you like it?

My R2 unit isn't "bouncing" however, the head rotates fine. Anyone know what part controls the bouncing?

There are a lot of out hole protectors. Wondering what one is best.

Thanks in advance! Glad to be here!!!

#1257 8 years ago

So toying with taking my maylar protectors off and using Novus 2 to clean and applying a coat of wax. Or should i leave them on? Anyone have any good results with the "whole field" protectors?

#1265 8 years ago

Sorry for all the posts but I just got my table this week and am trying to get it 100%. I have narrowed down the R2 not dancing issue to the coil. Anyone know what coil assembly the R2 unit uses?

#1280 8 years ago
Quoted from KornFreak28:

Yes i got the game but how do I look for this forum eveyday without having to scroll through all the forums? Thanks

Bookmark the thread and click on the last page... thats what I do.

#1291 8 years ago
Quoted from koops:

There is a coil below him that actually pulls him down when it fires. This is probably the root cause. Run through the coil tests and see if it fires (it probably won't).

That is the issue. Got a link to the part? I cant find a part number anywhere.

#1307 8 years ago
Quoted from koops:

ok flipped the pf and had a look.
http://imgur.com/a/hTHsZ
its part #090-5001-00 23-800 which is a standard coil http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1184

KOOPS! I can't thank you enough. Part ordered. Ill update the group on the outcome! Thanks again!!

#1311 8 years ago
Quoted from GoodManners:

Joined:

IMG_6758.jpg

Quoted from GoodManners:

Joined:

IMG_6758.jpg

WELCOME!

#1312 8 years ago

Been doing some research about the factory play field for this game. Can't find if it was factory Diamond Plated or Clear Coated. Anyone know? Trying to figure out if Novus 2 to clean and Carnauba Wax to finish is the way to go. This is my first pin so I am hyper nervous about ruining it... and like everything, there is no clear out answer out there.

#1326 8 years ago

Thought I would leave this here: http://christopherhutchins.com/gallery/album579?page=1

Playfield restoration. Crazy good work.

#1345 8 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Anyone have an extra DE DMD-Panel? I need a new one for my DE:SW... Looking for one. all stores are sold out.

Will this one work for you? Seems to be a very generic part... But I may be missing something: http://www.thepinballwizard.net/index.php?p=product&id=519

#1346 8 years ago
Quoted from surfajl77:

Do you guys have any good methods to combat the yellowing R2 legs? I was going to suggest paint, but the people doing my shop job do not think it's a good idea.

The guy here repainted:
http://www.pinballshark.com/?attachment_id=2004

It looks pretty good imo. Just need a good plastics spray paint. It is on my list of things to do. If its done with the correct paint I don't see any major drawbacks to it since the arms should never some into contact with the ball. I wonder why your restorer had issue with it.

#1347 8 years ago

Has anyone ordered a translite from this person: ebay.com link: Data East STAR WARS Pinball Machine Translite NEW

I don't care a bout it being a repo or being pixel perfect. I just want it to look good and be nice and bright. Please let me know if any of you have experience with this seller or know of a really good person selling repos.

#1350 8 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Not the DMD. I have plenty of them. Btw DMDs work in stern, williams, DE ect. And are easy to find. I need the *panel. I guess the correct term is speaker panel.
MC-545-5180-01L.jpg

Oh sorry I misunderstood. One popped up on ebay a few weeks go. Went for $90ish. I am looking for the clips for mine. Can't find em anywhere.

#1356 8 years ago
Quoted from Pauz21:

Anyone have a spare lift tab for the bottom of the back glass? Mine is broke.

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2249 These fit.

1 week later
#1401 8 years ago

Had an unfortunate accident this past weekend (2 year old just learned how to throw her toys):

Anyone know where I can land the red paint? I know there the pinball universe has the blue... but cant find the red any where. Or do I just run to home depot and grab a bunch of red swatches and try and match.

Dumb followup, I need to use acrylic paint correct?

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1 week later
#1430 8 years ago

The issue with the R2 unit not dancing continues. The R2 unit moves up and down if I push on the dome... So it's not a issue there. I replaced the coil. And tested the coil in test mode. Nothing. I traced the circuit back to the transistor Q30 on the cpu board and replaced the transitor. Fired it up in test mode. Nothing.

I am kinda out of ideas. Everything else on the game works perfectly. I don't know how to test the voltage on the lead with the play field up because I can't see the DMD to test fire the coil. Any ideas? Could it be a power issue? I can't imagine it being a power issue if everything else works. Could it just be a bad section on the board?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

#1435 8 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Did you replace the pre-driver transistor, Q22? Often when the driver transistor blows, so does the pre-driver.

Does that pre-driver transistor control anything else? Because all the other coils are working fine.

Quoted from Schwaggs:

Also, did you confirm power is getting to the coil? Did you measure the resistance of the coil to ensure it is good?

How to I test voltage on this particular coil. Is there always voltage on this coil when powered on? Or do I have to "fire" the coil. I don't want to blow myself up. The coil is a brand new part. The resistance is measuring correctly.

#1440 8 years ago
Quoted from Tim_may:

http://www.mcmaster.com
1/4" hex spacer 1 1/4" long with 4-40 threads on both ends
part# 90308A169 for brass
part# 91780A169 for aluminum
You will have to drill and tap one end to 6/32" threads

What Tap would you need to get? http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-taps/=10kxfl7

2 weeks later
#1490 8 years ago

Hey gang, what playfield protectors are you guys putting on your SW? Got links? The only ones I am able to find are on ebay from Germany. My mylar was so bad and bubbled on my playfield I was able to pull it all off with out and chemicals lol... then Goo Gone for the sticky bits.

Thanks in advance.

#1494 8 years ago

Sorry I meant clear, whole field protectors. I have cliffs hole protectors.

Quoted from RDReynolds:

Question on the new ROM...is there a setting that allows for the easy third ball Multiball? My young son really misses that...

Yes. Set Death Star/tri-ball from "hard" to "factory" in the settings.

#1504 8 years ago

ebay.com link: Data East Black Housing Speaker Panel Jurassic Park Tommy Star Wars ETC

I know some folks are here are looking for this piece.

That price tho...

3 months later
#1724 7 years ago

Awesome work Chad. Notes look great!!!

Anyone with a burner doing these yet for the group? Happy to pay for the trouble.

Also, was the light bug on "Jackpot" the end of ball sequence fixed? I didn't see it in the notes.

1 year later
#2499 6 years ago

Hello all,
I have a DMD issue that I have been troubleshooting and am stuck. My DMD is not getting power. Everything else works but the screen is blank. I have tested the voltage going to the DMD board and 5V and 12V is fine except the 68V gives me nothing. I then tested the power going to the PPB and I think its ok but am not sure. The Molex has seen better days (pictured). Is the 68V the bottom middle? The manual doesn't have those pins labeled very good. I checked the path from the power in (CX1) to the power out (CX5) of the PPB and it looks like it only passes through 2 points. D5 and R15 in the manual. Continuity on D5 seems ok... but I don't know what the heck R15 is (Pictured). How do you check continuity for that? Am I missing something else? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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