(Topic ID: 72482)

Data East Star Wars Club...Members & Fans Welcome.

By MustangPaul

10 years ago


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#3736 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I think the ppb board uses 5amp slowblow.... check to see if the ppb board has a fuse on the lower left side.

Correct, 5 amp slow blow in all positions.

#3737 3 years ago

Data East #15 checks in today! Been looking for a Star Wars for months.

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#3739 3 years ago
Quoted from peteyhugs:

Congrats, got mine back in September.

Initial impression is good and I have not even updated code yet.

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#3740 3 years ago

Busy the last 48 hours!

Replaced all of the insert lamps with Comet LED and most of the flashers, de-greased and adjusted the drop targets so they don't get stuck, replaced the bulbs in the poppers with LED's, replaced a broken popper screw, replaced four bad lamp diodes, reflowed the relay board to get death star rotating again, installed NVRAM, burned ChadH 1.07 to EPROM and installed, adjusted backbox door, replaced backglass lift channel, took the dent out of the coin door and order parts from Titan, Comet and Marco.

Need to decide what to do about the Boba and slingshot plastics. They are broken or chipped but not terrible. Half tempted to buy a new set just to have spares.

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#3742 3 years ago

Question this morning after I went back a year looking already!

I swear I saw a post in regards to the red "STAR WARS" inserts above the flippers flickering but can't find it. Does anyone else remember that post?

I have Comet LEDs installed which is rarely a problem with DE pins.

#3744 3 years ago

I think that is the thread I was thinking of, thank you.

#3745 3 years ago

Ok did some experimenting and it is an interesting problem.

The red letters "STAR WARS" will periodically flicker when lit.

They don't flicker in attract mode and they don't flicker in diagnostics when you fire up the whole row/column.

It doesn't matter if you have led's or incandescent bulbs either.

What I have been able to pin down oddly enough is if you hit The Force or Jabba's and the ball ejects, they will flicker and will continue to flicker till you hit a popper or slingshot and then they stop. I can consistently get it to exhibit this behavior.

Tomorrow after work I'll hook up a meter and take some voltage readings.

Anyone else wish to check yours to see if it does this? I would roll the ball through the outer loop till I had 7 of the 8 inserts lit, easier to see that way and then pop in The Force.

Gary

#3749 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Side note: Data East Star Wars has an odd refresh rate to it's lamp circuit,
with regular #44 lamps, the S-T-A-R-W-A-R-S should have a slight pulsing flicker.

555's actually, but I get your point.

Even with the incandescent, its very notable and when you hit a sling or popper it stops. I checked voltages last night and they look ok, varied around a bit on the meter actually but that did not seem associated with the flickering.

#3754 3 years ago
Quoted from cabuford:

Tried this tonight and I can reproduce the effects.

I'm going to try and plug in lamp testing module and see if it exhibits the same. Forgot I had it actually! Plugs into mpu headers and bypasses playfield totally.

#3755 3 years ago
Quoted from Seth1977:

I need peoples help. I am restoring my DESW and realized I am missing an important piece. Looking for the plastic above the drop down targets with three yellow lights for hyperspace. Please see pics. I hope someone out there has this assembly. Thank you
[quoted image]

I have a set I'm ordering if you dont find one, my current one is fine.

#3757 3 years ago
Quoted from cabuford:

Tried this tonight and I can reproduce the effects.

Plugging in my Siegecraft lamp matrix tester reveals it is a code/mpu issue as all the playfield wiring and lamps are bypassed. Its faint but you can see the lamps on the first column flicker.

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#3760 3 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Is the GI issue you guys are referring to related to power save settings? I had to turn this off (not sure about this pin) in order to not have LED flickering issues (in addition to having ng leds)

Not a GI issue.

These 8 lights right here.

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#3761 3 years ago

Been busy! Orders came in!

Titan black elastics

Stand up target faces and Cliffys from Marco

Lots of LEDs from Comet

White Retro Sunlite in the Backbox
White 5 led flashers in Backbox

Most of the inserts are 1SMD 5050 clear dome natural white with a few colored here and there.

Playfield LED for Flacon is a 2 LED on stalks so its better lit.

Red frosted 1SMD 5050 in "STAR WARS" inserts and poppers.

Blue frosted 1SMD 5050 in R2D2

Most of the GI is warm white frosted 1SMD 5050 with a clear dome in select locations.

Playfield flashers are a mix of either 8 LED on adjustable stalks or 5 LED for a less powerful flash if something is in your face.

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#3763 3 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

These 8 lights are fine on my brothers pin. Using NG Comet LEDs

What code on the mpu?

#3765 3 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Chads 1.07. But it also had the 1.02 and it was fine

I have some bayonet style led I can hook up with a jumper, I'll try this morning and post results. It does it with incandescent too so not optimistic.

#3767 3 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Could you do this club a HUGE favor and check the version that it originally came with.
There is a early version that includes some code that Chadh has been looking to obtain for quite some time.
Its a long shot but always worth asking when a machine with very old code shows up. Its probably unlikely as I cant see any of the beta/early production typical items (clear star wars letters, curved drop target plastic etc).
We've been asking quite a few people but have yep to stumble upon someone that actually has it.

Pretty sure it was 1.02 or 1.03. Have not erased eprom so easy enough to check.

#3768 3 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Chads 1.07. But it also had the 1.02 and it was fine

Hooked up a Comet Matrix adapter, a star post lamp and a NG bulb off that, no change.

Any chance brother is running Comet Optix? They have small capacitor due to early solid state flickering. I might experiment with some caps on the board.

The only time this happens is during gameplay when Force or Jabba scoop fires. As soon as a sling or popper is hit it stops till scoops are hit again.

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#3770 3 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

If you are having issues holding power, I’d highly recommend you get an Xpin Power Board. That will solve this issue

Its not the power board, people have already tried swapping them.

Only one column of the lighting matrix is effected and only after one of the scoops fire, it goes away after a sling or popper fires. It is a noted issue on this title. It will even do it with a minimal draw SiegeCraft lighting tester. The controlled lighting matrix all draw their power through the MPU off the same power line.

Something to do with the refresh rate in the code I'm told. My next experiment is to swap in a different game rom to narrow it down further or add caps to the lamps in question as an experiment. It really doesn't bother me at this point as it is a noted issue, not something broken or failing.

#3772 3 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Not having this issue whatsoever. So curious where this is a noted issue. Anybody else reporting this?

Just in the last day or two and there is a seperate thread related.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-star-wars-clubmembers-fans-welcome/page/76#post-6043527

I have also checked voltages on the string, they check out fine.

Does your brother have a Rottendog MPU by any chance? Trying to narrow down variables.

Can you start a game, lob a ball into a scoop and verify?

#3774 3 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

I rebuild it. It had an original PS and worked fine with Comet NG LEDs. Installed an Xpin when we swapped out the screen with a ColorDMD and Pinsound. The lights are super bright and solid all night long - we play with no lights on arcade style and I can assure you I’d notice any flickering/dimming. If you do end up swapping, highly recommend Xpin over Rottendog.

Power supply has already been eliminated, I have xpin on hand along with stock DE for troubleshooting.

#3777 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

You might have a small AC voltage leak from the +18volt bridge?

It would impact all the lamps on the matrix would it not?

#3779 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I do not know? But, the first strobe is activated for a long time... as compared to the other
lamp strobes... One needs to put the game on lamp test with all lamps on/off to see effect.
Or temporally insert a new bridge to test... and see if problem persists.

Never a problem in lamp test or attract mode.

Its JUST when the ball is ejected from scoops during gameplay.

#3781 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Could it be a spike short, from a small short somewhere under the playfield
that interrupts the strobe line?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-star-wars-clubmembers-fans-welcome/page/76#post-6044458

Playfield lamp wiring was bypassed.

#3784 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

That led board is very hard to read...
I assume it is in attract mode ... If so, then your bottom bumper is not lighting.
Your credit button is not working right ....etc.
On a side note:
Why are all the wires on the test board the same color? [ green]?
Can you take clean pictures of the lamp connectors?

All the lamps work, running ChadH 1.07

#3791 3 years ago

Toys are starting to show up..

Installing a buck booster to the sound board tonight, post video later.

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#3792 3 years ago

Star Wars with buck booster

Playboy with buck booster.

Playboy is LOUD, after install of the booster was virtually silent. Its easily the loudest as far as hum goes in my DE fleet.

Its so quiet now i have to look to see if its on

If anyone is interested in one of these "plug and play" I'm going to be making up a handful.

Gary

#3793 3 years ago

Cab repairs complete!

Color didn't change, just lighting and contrast.

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#3804 3 years ago

Tip for DESW owners.

Was having a problem with the ball chattering when launched in the area of the top right roll over. Sometimes so bad it would not make it to R2D2 and roll back down the right lane.

I was able to reduce this by replacing the spring in the lane shooter with a stronger return spring from a slingshot. Much better and the upper gate not getting battered so much. Cuts the ball speed in half if I had to guess.

#3813 3 years ago
Quoted from Enki:

Does anyone know what the original lamp color was for the force scoop? I can’t remember.

Mines red.

#3823 3 years ago

Playing with some Hot Wheels toys.

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#3827 3 years ago
Quoted from Seth1977:

Awesome, I just purchased about 20 of these from Facebook marketplace. how did you install?

Stiff wire from hobby rack from local mom and pop hardware store. I dont think they call it piano wire but similar, about 1/16" or less.

I drilled a 1/16" hole in ship and then bent the wire in a slight wave pattern so it's a tight friction fit. Made loop at end with needle nose pliers and attached at desired screw location.

I have two regular tie fighters I'm working with as well and still mulling over the best place for the Falcon.

1 week later
#3844 3 years ago
Quoted from criss:

What Switch on the switch matrix chart is used for the Extra ball , Yoda Lane ? , When they are lit on my game they are not getting rewarded when shot into the lane .
Also is R2D2 s ( The metal pole that goes into the playfiled ) to have a post rubber on the bottom ? What type ? Seems my game is not trigering this switch most times
Thanx in Advance

1) check switch in rear subway.

2) some say yes it needs one, mine does not have one.

3) right orbit triggered by top right roll over and then roll over under R2D2. Make sure both are working.

3 weeks later
#3858 3 years ago

Finally some spare time to install new plastics, note the lexan protection over this commonly broken piece.

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#3859 3 years ago

Slings getting done. May have to adjust lighting, CPR plastics dont let as much light through.

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#3861 3 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Hey I just picked up one of those Hot Wheels Millennium Falcons. How did you mount it?

Drill two holes in bottom and ran tie wrap through body

#3862 3 years ago

Everything replaced today.

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#3864 3 years ago

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Star Wars finally makes it into the line up. All I need to do now is hide an Ewok in there for the Mrs. and wait for my color display to arrive.

Gary

#3865 3 years ago

Tweaking the lighting for the game room. Replaced the retro warm white in the slings for 5050 sunlight white and added a spots on the left sling and right in front of Jabba's cave on right.

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#3876 3 years ago
Quoted from Jackaltr:

I got the side blades from ministryofpinball.com. They’re the only ones I found that really matched the art and theme.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Thinking about these or chrome/mirrored. A title that begs for them frankly!

#3886 3 years ago
Quoted from dino7c:

Just picked up a DE Star Wars...one question, is the death star supposed to rotate the entire time you are playing? Mine seems to rotate sometimes but not always.
thanks

Check the relay under playfield, broken solder joints common. As long as the ball is in play it will rotate one way and then the other.

#3892 3 years ago
Quoted from dino7c:

thanks, looking now...anywhere specific that is most common with this issue?

Broken solder joints on the relay connector pins

#3898 3 years ago
Quoted from jedimastermatt:

Data East games of this generation had "chunky" sounding pops. It's just part of the feel of game. I'm sure some of the feeling is from the big caps that are on it.
I don't know if I would change it or if it could be done.

Star Wars and Checkpoint have unique pop bumper caps that move up and down with the pop rings, the only two pins that ever came that way. The extra mass makes them slower to actuate.

#3899 3 years ago
Quoted from DJY2J:

I was never able to get my NVRAM installed properly and had similar issues so im following this also

Been my experience that DE pins are very easy to install NVRAM. The only problem I had with one was a Time Machine that required me to leave the batteries in during the swap and was fine after that. once the setting were set I removed the batteries and all was good.

#3903 3 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

The rumor is, red caps are louder than the white ones. Which may be the reason they switched. Again not sure this is fact just read it somewhere like the internet, which means it must be true right?

Todd Tuckey said the clear ones were released as a fix for noise.

#3908 3 years ago
Quoted from Dthwsh:

Thanks everyone, While I do "respect the clunk" I'd rather have more pop action.
I'm gonna start with the pop caps and go from there. Maybe I can adjust it a bit.

make sure to check adjustments. On Checkpoint there is an adjustment for coil strength.

#3913 3 years ago
Quoted from dino7c:

Anybody know where I can get those thick yellow targets or a suitable replacement? The guy before me just put in some random stand up targets. A red square, blue circle...looks weird

Marco.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8304-6

#3921 3 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Ok, then the switch is bad. Try running the test and exercise it or replace it

Could be a bad diode or bad solder connection for diode, happens all the time.

#3922 3 years ago

My wife likes ewoks, yub yub.

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3 weeks later
#3965 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Tip for DESW owners.

Was having a problem with the ball chattering when launched in the area of the top right roll over. Sometimes so bad it would not make it to R2D2 and roll back down the right lane.
I was able to reduce this by replacing the spring in the lane shooter with a stronger return spring from a slingshot. Much better and the upper gate not getting battered so much. Cuts the ball speed in half if I had to guess.

I was finally able to find a 100% fix for this problem!

Still having a problem with the ball either chattering so bad it would not make it to R2D2 or it would rail in so fast it would bounce off the post up there and wander back down the right orbit, was maddening. Replacing the shooter return spring with a stronger spring from a sling maybe reduced it 2/3 but still did it enough it irked the hell out of me.

Took apart the shooter assembly again, removed the spring, installed 2 star post o-rings at the base of the plunger (were the weighted disk is) and reinstalled the strong spring and reassembled.

Works perfect! The 2 o-rings increase the spring tension slightly but more importantly act as both a damper when the plunger is at end of travel and reduces the travel of the plunger as well.

The ball makes it every single time to R2D2 now.

#3967 3 years ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Sounds great! I would love to see pictures.

Not much to see.

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2 months later
#3989 2 years ago

As if I did not have enough on my plate right now.. Going to be weeks before I can even think about installing this, ordered months ago and finally arrived yesterday.
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1 month later
#4029 2 years ago
Quoted from mikespins:

Hey guys. I just grabbed my Star Wars but the death star target isn't dropping. The relay is clicking and the relay board seems okay. I can't move the target down by pressing on it, so I assume the motor is shot? Here's a few pics.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Can someone please post a pic of this switch by the motor? I think the one on the left is backwards. Wouldn't explain why it's not working, but I am guessing motor at this point.
[quoted image]
Does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks!

Reflow the pins on the relay, common failure point.

2 months later
#4080 2 years ago
Quoted from thechakapakuni:

Replace your power driver board with an Xpin - yours looks jacked

Both are easy repairs, new headers would set them right quick.

1 month later
#4115 2 years ago
Quoted from ROMM:

I’m kinda torn in regards to side boards. I really like the mirror blade look, too…

Agreed!

2 weeks later
#4129 2 years ago
Quoted from chair1ind:

Just joined the club after picking up a documented Home Use Only example that had lived with a Star Wars collector all these years! Would love to touch up two small areas but noticed that Pinball Universe is shut down and I can't find anywhere else to get the paint match.
Does anyone have any of this paint left they would be billing to part with?
[quoted image]

How much you need? I did a custom blend that came out perfect.

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#4131 2 years ago
Quoted from chair1ind:

Not very much! Can you share the details of what you put in there?

Not really it was done by eye.

I should have a fair amount left, let me look around work and see if I have a sample bottle I can drop some in and mail your way.

2 weeks later
#4134 2 years ago
Quoted from peteyhugs:

Maybe this will help get you started.
[quoted image]

I actually sent him some in the mail, took forever to get there!

#4135 2 years ago

Anyone have the pin2dmd files for Star Wars? I went to download from vpuniverse and can't get in. Been waiting for 6 months to install the unit and this is slowing me down now!

#4139 2 years ago

Finally installed!! And a guide for those looking to do the same.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gary-s-definitive-guide-to-installing-pin2dmd-evo-in-data-east

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1 month later
#4159 2 years ago
Quoted from chair1ind:

Good Morning -
A little lost and looking for some guidance. Just finished a shop job on my DESW but now having an issue.
Details - New Rottendog Power Supply

Full Stop right there.

Swap in another power supply, any DMD power supply from Data East will do for testing. If you don't have one, use one from a DE alphanumeric but disconnect the DMD (the early power supply doesn't have enough juice to run it) you should be able to play it blind and verify the problem is gone.

RD is notorious for being problematic on Data East, I had a brand new one I had to repair out of the box.

#4161 2 years ago
Quoted from chair1ind:

Thanks gdonovan -
I don't have another power supply for either model at my disposal currently.
Is there anything I should check to troubleshoot and see if it is indeed the new board? Unfortunately my old board is non-op at the moment.

Just the voltages at mpu and sound board. Should have solid 5v at mpu, I think the sound board was 5, 12 and -12

2 months later
#4190 1 year ago
Quoted from Beez:

Thank you !! My motor must be bad because I cannot switch it from the off position and it never raises are lowers.

I think there is a relay under the playfield, check for bad solder joints which is very, very common.

Schematic confirms relay, reflow the header pins first. One relay is for Death Star rotation, other for bar motor. Both are located near the center of playfield.

2 weeks later
#4202 1 year ago

As a DE Star Wars owner I think the Vader topper is about the cheesiest topper going. Its like they spent all the money for the license and didn't have enough left over for a proper topper and shaker motor.

3 months later
#4240 1 year ago
Quoted from gstanczuk:

During initial game startup the voice call out is cut short. Not sure how to fix this.

Its normal on almost all DE titles. 100% normal.

#4241 1 year ago
Quoted from gstanczuk:

Issue one is that occasionally during game play the skill shot does not work. The ball is in the trough ready to shoot however the sequence does not play and the game is stalled. Pressing the skill shot button does not work at this point. The game goes through the sequence of firing the coils but still doesn’t start. I have checked the ball trough and shooter lane switches in switch test and they all register when triggered. Not sure what to check next.

I'll see if I can duplicate the problem on mine tonight, what MPU rom revision are you running?

#4245 1 year ago
Quoted from gstanczuk:

The current rom is showing as unofficial 1.07. I do have a new rom but have to installed it.

I'm running Chad's as well, so no problem there.

Run through for us what happens in detail.

The ball just launches from the trough to the shooter lane and then it does nothing? Ball search should kick it out at some point.

#4246 1 year ago
Quoted from gstanczuk:

I had read that in several posts but was hoping that some one would have a fix. My Tommy and Jurassic Park do not have the sound cutoff issue.

Its very common, longer "boot up" sounds may get clipped depending on title.

I have had 17 Data East titles, I can assure you its not unusual.

#4248 1 year ago
Quoted from gstanczuk:

The game starts and during one the subsequent balls (never the same ball) the ball is placed in the shooter lane and the skill shot sequence doesn’t start. The ball search starts and retries but no ball launch. All the ball switches have been checked in switch test mode repeatedly and all switches register when triggered. Short of replacing all the switches which may not fix the issue, I am unsure of where to check. I didn’t realize that the game had 1.07 chip and bought one, so I can change the chip just in case it’s corrupted. I do have a set of switches on hand

The machine is a recent purchase and does not appear to have any other issues other than a part that is broken but still working. It happens to be my grail purchase and an planning a total restoration including cabinet artwork from RetroRefurbs.

Almost sounds like lane switch is fussy, I'll try and duplicate tonight.

1 week later
#4258 1 year ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Well after doing some reading on pinwiki tonight. It appears that I have some sort of boot failure. The PIA led never turns off and the blanking LED never lights.
So even though I'm getting a callout from the sound board, the board is not finishing the boot sequence. I suppose I may have to send out the boards for repair.
Bummer.

The sound board is booting, hence the call out. The MPU could be missing and you will get the call out.

#4259 1 year ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

May need some pointers from the club. I finally got around to ordering new ROMS for this DE SW project. Conveniently, all of them were missing. Installed all 5 ROMs making sure to place the notch on the side where the silkscreen indicates. Pulled the 50v (F5) fuse on the PPB because I found out on first boot I have a locked on auto launcher coil.
Upon 2nd boot I find I have no display. Im using a known working dmd, and a brand new dmd controller board.
[quoted image]
I hear the immediate "May the force be with you" callout, so im guessing the mpu is booting.
Here's a short video in case you guys can see something unusual.
On the DMD these are my voltages at the connector:
-115
-92
+5
+12
+69
[quoted image]
I also have +5v at the dmd controller. I've swapped both ribbon cables with known working ones to make sure that wasnt my issue.
I know im missing GI and controlled lights, I have some toasty connectors so ill rebuild those and probably install new headers also.
Thoughts on the DMD issue?

Until you get an MPU boot up, need to ignore the DMD.

1 week later
#4273 1 year ago
Quoted from gstanczuk:

Star Wars Restoration
After purchasing the machine several weeks were spent on the mechanical and electrical systems. The batteries were replaced and the game specifics set to my liking. All yellow targets replaced (5) and R2D2 motor was replaced. Pop bumpers returned to original moving style but retained blue pop caps. Replaced the Death Star target assembly. Found that the guide was broken and no replacement available. A 3D model was available on Pinside. My local 3D printer to the rescue and now I have several in my stock for future use. Made a set of sling plastics protectors. Everything was removed from the playfield. The playfield was cleaned and waxed. The metal ramps and habitrail were cleaned and polished. R2D2 top was polished.
Replaced all rubbers and plastics with new. Rebuilt the shooter lane launcher with new parts as the old one was a rolled over mess. Added the rubber to the launcher. Replaced the missing support bracket under the playfield The game had LEDs however changed them to 2 SMD and colours to my taste keeping with blue theme. Once the game was running perfectly after many plays the fun began!!!! This was important so that later when reassembled there would be minimal issues if any.
Everything and I mean everything was removed from the cabinet and back box. All ends of the wiring harnesses were tagged for easy installation at reassembly. Two persons removed the playfield and it was stored away. All bolts, nuts and screws bagged and marked to identify location. The end result was two empty plywood boxes!
I used automotive resin to fix both pieces. The cabinet was the worst under the back box with pieces of plywood missing. Every surface was sanded with an orbital sander and 80 grit paper. This removed all cabinet artwork.
Parts that needed repair were levelled so that the resin could self level. A dam was made with painters tape and the voids filled with resin. The process was repeated several times until every imperfection filled. The pieces were rough sanded with 120 grit. The result was boxes with sharp edges and no dents anywhere.
My local automotive paint supplier matched the blue of the decals. They made up spray bombs of the correct paint. Every surface inside and outside was painted.
The paint is a water based acrylic and drys quickly with no sheen. It is completely dry in a few hours.
The boxes were then coated with sanding sealer. When dry the boxes were sanded smooth with 240 grit making sure that the sealer is not completely removed. A tack cloth was used to remove any dust particles. Now it’s ready for decals.
Starting with the back box it was reassembled minus the swing out lamp board. Side decals were installed dry. Excess decal were trimmed off. The back box is ready for installation.
The cabinet decals were started from the front and then the coin door opening and all bolt hole openings cleared. Excess decal trimmed off. Each side of the cabinet process was the same install and trim. Two persons were needed for cabinet front and sides as these are large pieces. Side blades were installed as there was no interference from the playfield.
In between the sanding and resin work there was idle time. During this time all trim pieces were sanded, cleaned and repainted with black semigloss enamel. Exposed bolts were stuck onto cardboard and repainted black as well.
Installation of the playfield took two persons. The installation was easy and side blade protectors invaluable as they kept the playfield from scratching the artwork. Anyone who has side blades should have a set. All trim pieces, glass trim and back box swing plates were installed. The back box was bolted to the swing plates and the back box locked in place. The DMD was reconnected and new ground straps added as the old ones were not in good condition. Connecting the wiring was simple due to the tagging process at the initial disassembly. The total assembly process with two person took place over 5 hours, this includes decal installation and all trim pieces. The following day a few more hours were needed to fix a few wiring hacks that were discovered and one nasty IDC connector replaced with Molex connector. The wiring on the connector did not match game electric drawing so the decision was made to go with what was previously connected. The flipper buttons were also changed out as they wouldn’t clean up. All the original factory tags and decals were installed with scanned copies of the originals. The originals were retained for the game binder.
Now for the moment of truth let’s fire this up! Keeping the back box open and a hand on the power switch the game was turned on. No smoke, no sparks. The game fired up with no issues on the CPU or the DMD. Now to start a game and test it. The game didn’t start. The start button was not fully seated. A correction was made, reseating the switch to the button and it started. All switches tested and all lights working. The game plays as it should. The game was moved to its temporary location and levelled. Both the playfield glass and backglass were installed. The game was played in two player mode twenty times with no issues. Shortly the game will move to its forever home next to other games in my game room.
Thank you to all who have posted stories and videos of their restoration. Vids guides have been invaluable as were many other posts.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice work! These Data East games always seem to get abused the most for some reason.

1 week later
#4282 1 year ago
Quoted from cabuford:

To install the LCD on a Data East you need to dremel the plastic out on the DMD panel so it will fit. The LED version is a much simpler swap. That being said, I have one of each in 2 Data Easts (DESW and LW3)

Pin2DMD fits without mods, I even did a how too page.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/gary-s-definitive-guide-to-installing-pin2dmd-evo-in-data-east#post-6645284

3 weeks later
#4291 1 year ago
Quoted from jdoz2:

You're missing the knocker

Baffles the crap out of me, half the DE pins I have purchased they were missing.

#4294 1 year ago
Quoted from mikespins:

Did they all come with knockers? Mine didn't have one when I bought it.

Yes.

1 month later
#4323 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

1st, check all cold solder joints to all associated components for the motor assembly.

I would look close at the gate stop and go switches too.

1 week later
#4341 1 year ago
Quoted from gstanczuk:

The relay board was removed and inspected. There were no cold solder joints nor broken wires. So I decided to swap out the bar motor relay board with the Death Star relay board. The bar motor now works as it should. The Death Star only rotates, so once it starts it works. The game has been play adore than ten times and has been working flawlessly. No the huge question is how to get a replacement for the relay board. Does anyone know where to get one or has a solution to the issue?

Replace the relay if you think its' bad, easy enough to do.

2 months later
#4399 1 year ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

Ah, thought DE wasn't adjustable...guess I should have checked! Still think I'll need a lower coil size, this is pretty nuts. When I shopped the machine, I discovered the ramp wall at the bottom had about 3in busted off.

This is fairly normal, hence replacement metal ramps being available.

I just welded mine up and ground it down, better than new!

The power adjustment in settings can have fairly notable impact.

9 months later
#4575 4 months ago
Quoted from jedimastermatt:

Hmmm… while Data East’s funk is a nice novelty, once you pair the maestro with the game there is no going back.
Williams’ music, Ben Burt’s sound effects, and hundreds of call outs from the original trilogy is perfection.

Need the color DMD, it really shines on this title.

2a807745f4dcccf793b4377da88677df72b9411b.gif2a807745f4dcccf793b4377da88677df72b9411b.gif4fadf949571b4eb35d4ce1fb189a27ed207658e1 (resized).jpg4fadf949571b4eb35d4ce1fb189a27ed207658e1 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#4585 4 months ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Hey guys, quick question. I am just starting to look at my Star Wars and one thing that looks strange is the plastic back by the Death Star. The 2nd level appears to be just sitting on the edge of the 1st level of plastic, not locked down in any way. I don't see an obvious spot where it would go differently but it seems really strange like that.
Is this the correct setup for this?
[quoted image]

Yes.

#4587 4 months ago
Quoted from mark532011:

thanks for the info! I am assuming since there aren't any complaints about it, it has not been a problem for people.

None I'm aware of, the question does come up time to time. I was surprised to see it as well.

3 weeks later
#4592 3 months ago
Quoted from mark532011:

hmmmmmm, I think I may have to get some work done on my ramp. I am pretty sure its not supposed to look like this![quoted image]

I welded mine up, came out nice and you can't tell it was broke.

2 weeks later
#4610 79 days ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Verify there are no shorts between the pins on J5. Carbon is conductive, and it looks like you have a lot of potential there.

It's the GI circuit so unrelated., one reason I run LED in all my pins to reduce the amp load.

Jurassic Park I picked up, re-import.

46a7a103eaa58d0893fce642dcc4a659313ccc30 (resized).jpg46a7a103eaa58d0893fce642dcc4a659313ccc30 (resized).jpg
#4615 77 days ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Hey guys, I continue to disassemble my Star Wars. I ran across the scoop and its got a twist to it. Is this normal? It seems strange but I can't imagine how a ball bouncing around would torque it to the point where it looks like this, so before I take a vice to it I thought I would ask.
edit, found an old post with a pic. It looks like its not bent so I am going to assume mine needs to be bent back into alignment
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-star-wars-clubmembers-fans-welcome/page/11#post-1897420
[quoted image][quoted image]

They get beat up over time.

#4629 73 days ago
Quoted from Pinslot:

Finally joined the club. Game came with Pinsound . (Seller didn’t even mention it. Game is for my church, so he was very generous in the price negotiations and even brought it over)
Do you guys think it’s worth getting the ColorDMD for this title?

I have the pin2dmd and it looks superb.

1 week later
#4666 64 days ago
Quoted from oradke:

Chad was thinking about re-activating the interactive speeder mode, but AFAIK it didn‘t happen yet.

I think he was looking for someone whom had a dump of the proto-software, not sure if it ever crossed his desk.

There is a video of it on Youtube so someone does indeed have it or did at one time.

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