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That's one i things on my list at some point possibly going with pin sound and maybe get wild and do a color dmd. But need to address other issues. Broken or worn wear items non working gi etc. Currently have mixed match square target faces yellow some are Opaque and some are transparent. The opaque are the ones i remember back then playing it when it was new on a route. But wonder if transparent ones and lighting them are better looking. Also this one has clear pop bumper caps had thought they were supposed to be red but saw in thread some posts back that was changed. Seen lots of pics and videos of modded ones so it's now time to decide what mods if any and which ones to do. This has some led's and some incandescent another thing to think about go full on led or go back to the old school look.
I have most of the parts on hand to gut the pop bumpers Marco shows the special ring 535-5874-00 ,Special pop bumper rod 535-5875-00, the hex bushing 02-4252-20 but it doesn't take the original cap screws you need a larger 6-32 machine screw they are listed as a sub for the 254-5012-00 hex spacer.
There is but they have bug in game code that kills it. Hence the talk of newer game code that fixes ball save but does change the rules of game.
Thought of pulling my translite to change to the mirrored back glass from classic playfeild but only have only so much stupid money to blow and have a few games that could use a playfeild so its going to have to wait. https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/starwars/
The fuse clip shown at f4 is bad check them all. Bad headers and pins are also bad problems with data-east games check solder the joints on back side.
Must have been turned off in every game i played in past never experienced it. Guess i have another option to adjust when i get back to my game. Probably was turned off by many operators to try and save wear and tear on a game that all ready got a ton of action.
Still mulling over if i want to remove existing code in favor of Chads current code but i guess if he does add the grail Speeder mode i guess i will have to. Never had any complaints with existing code other then ball save never worked it plays just as it did in my younger days. Always told game was to easy i thought to myself its a dataeast game what do you expect.
As per book is #Q44 on cpu board cn11 coil drive 1-8. tip 122 substitute is a TIP 102 number 5162-09410-00 at pinball life or Part Number TIP 122 Transistor,100 Volt, 5 Amp at Great plains electronics.
Do check the book page 29. There is another tip 36c #Q6 on ppb board and replace the 1n4004 diode on the launch ball coil. I learned the hard way and cooked a tip 122 and 36c.
Get the powers supply fixed 1st.
Quoted from EmptyH:New to the Star Wars game, but am exited. About the only problem with the game I bought, is that the DMD does not work at all. I included a picture of the power supply board that has a part that is connected on one end only. (lower left in the picture) Could this be the problem? How do I test this part (the right one of the 2 (resistors?)). I can solder and I do have a decent meter.
Also, does the empty fuse holder need a fuse? (4th one up on the right side)
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Quoted from mark532011:quick question - many of the metal guides are not shiny but a dull gray/black. I am guessing that is on purpose since they are all about the same, but is there a reason or is it just a style choice. I was thinking of seeing if they could be shined up.
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It's a game that's 30+years of use. That's not always in the best environment and lack of great care.
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