Joined the club this last weekend. Picked it up off a friend who was a Star Wars collector. She just let it sit there, she's had it for over a decade. Played great but it was dirty! Its a reimport from Spain, so it's seen so usage at some point. Resoldered some switches and replaced some lamp diodes and she's almost 100%. Death Star and R2D2 both look great, although R2 needs a new motor.

First steps were NVram from Borygard and new code from ChadH via Meloyelo51

As usual, some broken yellow targets and plastics. Probably pick up just the target faces from Marco, thinking of going translucent red or yellow.

What's the best source for plastics since I missed the CPR run. PinballUniverse.com (USA) or Pinball.center (EU)?

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I know this sounds like a dumb question, but have you tried the volume pot on the inside of the cabinet? It's on the right on top of the power box enclosure. If that's not it you should check to see if your soundboard is getting proper voltage.

If you have the correct hardware with the hex spacers raising the caps, it's a #4-40. I got some from Marco (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4004-01005-12)

Sadly a few of mine broke off in the hex spacers, which are unobtanium I think. I'm converting mine to regular Williams bumper caps, hopefully it'll be quieter as well.

I just spent a week creating an excel spreadsheet for parts to order for mine. I vowed to disassemble and research first, then order second

What lights did you use and how did you mount them? My only idea is a 3SMD Led strip taped on the bottom. I don't see anywhere else to stick a flex head or anything.

Can you take some pics of the underside to show what you used and how you mounted them?

I like these! I feel like my playfield is too tight for these. I'd be willing to try something DIY though. Care to send files via PM? Will a FedEx place print these or do they care about copyright? I'm not supposed to use the color printer at work

What I did was replace the Hex spacers with a #6 nut, so you essentially have the same ring and rod as a normal assembly. The Pop bumper bodies still have the holes for regular caps, so I just bought some new Williams caps and 1/2" pop bumper screws from Pinball Life. I did replace the discs and got translucent bodies from Zitt but that shouldnt be necessary.

The only issue I noticed is that the bulb holder seems taller, and the cap wont fit with an incandescent bulb. My Comet order came yesterday and I'm putting in pop bumper discs anyway, so hopefully it'll all fit.

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I won a SW Pro translight at a local tournament. It almost works.

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It looks like Retro Refurbs carries it.

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/star-wars-data-east-dark-side-alternate-pinball-translite/

Finally finished installing my metal-mods stickers. I replaced the tall Data East caps with regular Williams caps.

I went with red translucent target faces and red led flashers behind them and I think it looks great.
The red bumper caps are available new online. Apparently the clear ones were quieter.

I switched to regular Williams style caps as a bunch of the cap screws broke off in the hex spacer holding the cap up, and the spacer has weird threading and is impossible to find.

You seem to be registering Death Star hits when you hit the middle Xwing targets. Also does your Death Star target even go up? I don't see it on the video, ever shot seems to go right in.

Printed the free pop bumper cap offered by PinballCharlie in his thread here

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/limited-run-tatooine-and-hoth-mods-star-wars-pinball#post-4342341

Works great on Data East even though it was designed for the Stern machine.

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The original ones did. The were larger and mounted to the pop bumper metal ring. I replaced them with Williams caps that mount to the pop bumper body (which I also replaced with red translucent) so they don't move. The original ones were super noisy.

The ATAT hasn't moved yet and he's not even glued on!

Exactly!

A cap for the snowspeeder would be sweet! I was thinking about where to put that in the machine.

The cap screwes are N/S on s stock machine. The Data east pop bumper caps mount to extensions on the metal pop bumper ring (which are E/W), the caps actually moved when activated. The holes in the pop bumper body are not used. So when I switched cap styles, I didn't reorient anything, I just used the holes in the pop bumper body.

For your mod, I would imagine you wouldn't want it to shake, so you would would use the holes in the pop bumper body, which obviously are standard since the cap fits a new stern and an old data east

Let me know if you have any more questions!

I resorted to this piece of wood under the back. My DE LW3 got to 6.5 with the front all the way down and the rear all the way up but Star Wars wouldn’t come close. The legs that came on it were not stock and I swapped with a brand new set of legs that I had painted for my virtual cab. Now it’s up to 7 degrees and I haven’t lowered it back but I need to try. Some shots are better, some are worse.

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Got some custom apron cards from Mikonos

They look even better in person! Printed on chrome vinyl.

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I love how 2 of the 3 DMD animations are upside down.

He sold them, I just pm’ed him through pin side. He made me some for LW3 as well. Shoot him a message.

I'm gonna have to try this! I didn't get very far with a hairdryer.

I thin I'm missing that piece! At least the strip, I've got the hex spacer.

No EOS, everything is controlled by the Solid State Flipper board in the lower right hand side of the cabinet. Blue/Yel and Grey/Yel is the power coming from the board, 50v for initial flip, 8v for hold.

There is a lot more information about this in the Lethal Weapon 3 manual than there is in the Star Wars manual.

Display 1.05 is what you need. I have chads rom and a color dmd and it works great.

I have an EnerGI Maestro in both of my Data East pins. You can control the intensity and fade rate of the GI. You could set it to always on but I found that giving it a slower fade rate makes it less crazy especially if you have LEDs. It also bypasses the relay so you don’t hear the clicking anymore.

That's a shame, I'd love to have the backwards one as joke wall art. How did it look otherwise? Why didn't you just reach out to classic arcades first and point out the super obvious mistake?

Thanks for the comparisons. I noticed similar issues with my repro plastics. Luckily my backglass only has a few minor scratches so I don't need a new one unless I get OCD on it.

That backwards one was funny though, how do you not notice that while you're making or shipping it?

I went a little overboard and did red caps, translucent red bodies and red discs, as well as red LEDs with a down firing white, stickers and the AT-AT mod meant for the Stern machine. I think I've posted most of this before. The originals were so loud. I still have all the parts in the coinbox if I ever decide to sell.

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They do not. It's a pretty simple change. The original tops attach to the metal part that moves with hex extenders. Replace these with hex nuts, and a Williams style cap mounts right onto the existing body with screws.

This machine absolutely has a knocker. It's down in the cabinet to the left of the cabinet speaker.

See this thread https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-star-wars-replay-knocker

$25 and some soldering and you're back in business.

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsega-knocker-assembly.html

Maybe they're taking it to be a knocker somewhere else? Who knows? I assumed people just took the coil to fix a game on route, but it looks like you guys are missing the whole thing.

It should spin all the time during a game. Much like R2s head spinning left and right. Not linked to when R2 jumps up and down.

CPR has the whole set for $150. I needed just a few pieces (like yours) but just bought the whole thing anyway.

There's not a lot of room for lights behind the flipper button due to the switch. I had a hard enough time getting regular lights mounted back there, I have no idea how you'd squeeze a flasher in there.

Mine is bent but I’ve been wondering the same thing. I think others I’ve looked at as well are bent.

I'd love to have a reason to use the handle, not just the button! As long as you're only taking out attract mode lighting I am ALL for it.

Then maybe you could do a few things to LW3....

I just leave it down all the time. If I feel like opening the death star early I just push the button. Does it do anything when it's up?

That's funny as you can change this on LW3 as well (which came out before SW), but its actually listed as the option.

I like it to keep it on on both machines.

Unofficially 1.07 from @chadh. It's worth it.

https://www.pinballcode.com/

That’s the sound it makes when the sound board boots so it sounds like it’s rebooting a few times then just not booting. I’d focus on power.

https://mattsbasementarcade.com/product/star-wars-data-east-pinball-rom-chips/

1.07 is Chad's latest so you're good there.

Sound ROMs are irrelevant if you've got a PinSound. I love my pinsound, and have the pinsound shaker, which is great as well. Haven't had a chance to see if that sound is in the original orchestration. I'll pull the glass in a bit and make the required shots.

DEFINITELY get a ColorDMD! I'd go with the LED version, I had to do a bit of work to fit the LCD version in mine.

Where'd you get the sideblades from?

Any issues with shipping? How long did it take?

My PinSound seems to only have the “pinball” sound without the laugh. It laughed with the original sound card so I’m assuming that sound didn’t get pulled from the ROM correctly. I’ll dig through the files more to see if it’s somewhere else but I assume it’s a simple swap.

Ordered the sideblades. Lets hope I can install them and not scratch them up!!!

I recorded the Pinball Hu Hu Hu off the website above and made it into a WAV file for PinSound

It goes here 3720640276-pinball which is in the Voice folder

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1X06_xd4D41ThrhDC2ciynuCYr0B_INxg/view?usp=sharing

That’s just the sound card booting. Don’t worry unless it starts doing it during the game.

Although I do recommend PinSound as well

Mine flicker sometimes as well. I will try your suggestions and see if I have the same symptoms. I've got comet LEDs as well and replaced the original power supply board with a Rottendog which didn't do anything.

Tried this tonight and I can reproduce the effects.

Wonder if this is something ChadH could fix?

Looks awesome! Definitely interested in a kit of some sort!

a #47 is just a dimmer #44. I'd just use #44 (bayonet) and #555 (wedge).

"Any suggestions on where to start beside the obvious?"

Do the R2D2 and death star motors work?

Obviously check all the switches.

https://mattsbasementarcade.com/

He can burn you the latest.

For what it worth, I went with red transparent as there are flashers behind them. I think it looks nice.

To install the LCD on a Data East you need to dremel the plastic out on the DMD panel so it will fit. The LED version is a much simpler swap. That being said, I have one of each in 2 Data Easts (DESW and LW3)

Get the LED version unless you want to spend a bunch of time dremelling out your DMD holder for the LCD.
I also recommend the power cable adapter for DE games.