Just joined the club tonight. Bit of a fixer upper but the playfield is perfect. Most of the damage is easily replaceable. Really excited since this was one of the first DMD games I played. Been a fan of pinball ever since.
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Just joined the club tonight. Bit of a fixer upper but the playfield is perfect. Most of the damage is easily replaceable. Really excited since this was one of the first DMD games I played. Been a fan of pinball ever since.
Already ordered the replacement plastics that were damaged, new Death Star, LED's, cab touch up paint, rubber and flipper rebuild kit. Bummed that it's hard to find replacement decals but once I put it into the pile it'll be hard to even see the side scuffs.
Need to try out the new code! Only ever played the original.
Quoted from MustangPaul:All ya have to do is use model glue and glue it from the inside. It melts the plastic and will be stronger then the rest of the piece. Then white enamel paint (2 coats) the inside to reflect all the light from the lights that are under it. Works great. Bad lighting so it looks a little yellow but it is nice bright white.
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I actually have a big hole where the top should be. The only thing holding it onto the rotator is an ugly piece of tape with a hole punched through it.
Well poop. I hooked up a replacement launcher coil backwards on my SW and fried some boards. I'm guessing it's not a good sign when a pinball table starts to smoke.
Ordered new rottendog MPU, PPB boards and a new coil. Don't even want to bother trying to fix since I'd rather not put a board back in the machine that has actual burn marks on it and have to deal with problems down the road. Frustrated with my stupidity.
Quoted from MustangPaul:And last of all I lit up the left scoop hole green from underneath by adding a #44 socket and using a double head flex head also from Comet. They have a nice long reach and work great for this kind of app.
Love the green light from "THE FORCE" scoop. Would love to get more details on how you hooked that up. As you can probably tell from my previous post I'm sort of new to this hobby. =/
If anyone is in need of replacement wire lane ramps both just popped up on ebay.
ebay.com link: Data EAST Star Wars Pinball Machine Metal Spiral Loop Ramp 515 5682 00
ebay.com link: Data EAST Star Wars Pinball Machine Metal VUK Wire Ramp 535 6339 00
Quoted from Astropin:That's unbelievable! The cost to have one made is close....just a little more than what the auction is starting at. It will be interesting to see where it ends.
$120 is the "buy it now" price.
Quoted from MiamiRedSkin:There have been some posts on this thread about the touch up paint that you can buy for the cabinet. How is the color matching? I assume it will stand out if applied to parts of the cabinet that may have some fade, but I am looking at a DE SW that has some scratches and chips around the head and leg area that I would like to cover up if possible. Any success stories or advice?
Paint I purchased matched almost perfectly. In the light you can kind of see the difference if you look close enough, only because the cab paint has more of a shine to it. Really hard to notice unless you're looking for it. I would highly recommend it for touch ups.
Got it from -> http://www.pinballuniverse.com/PinballPaints.htm
After I installed a new flipper rebuild kit on my SWDE I keep getting air balls off the center ramp. Has anyone had the same problem and was able to stop it from happening? Worried I'm going to lose my R2.
Quoted from JCJP:So I was taking my Star Wars apart to start cleaning and ran into this. Was wondering if anyone had this to?
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I have the same image on mine. Figured it was just done by a previous owner. Neat.
I'm searching for a decal set so I can clean and replace the ones on my old R2D2. Seems like I'm a bit late to the party since all the online retailers are sold out. Anyone have any suggestions on where I may possibly find some? Or even better have a set they would be willing to sell?
My honest opinion is too much blue. I'd swap back in some white LEDs so the colors of the playfield and plastics aren't diluted. Just my opinion though. If you like the blue keep it blue.
Quoted from JosiahCox:His mouth should light when you get an extra ball.
It also lights up during attract mode for me.
Quoted from joelleoj:Thanks for the info!
I've owned this game for 15 years but have been petrified to do any work on it for fear of hurting something. Now that a few lights have burnt out and other miscellaneous odd problems, I've been researching LEDs and reading to see how easy it actually is!
I knew how to get the glass off (a hard lesson when I first bought the game and couldn't figure out how to get the balls in it!) but I figured the playing field had to be lifted entirely out to change the bulbs underneath. Then I saw a video of another machine and figured there had to be an easier way.
I bought some Novus #1 yesterday and got the playing field fairly cleaned and discovered some broken and cracked plastics and some other issues I hadn't noticed before.
Once I get all my game problems "in order", I'll post them and get the invaluable information from you guys again! Odowda, markmon, and GoodtobeDad helped me with my sound problem yesterday and made my 7 year old daughter VERY happy! Thanks again guys!
You really need to get over this fear. No matter what your skill level is you're probably going to do more damage to the game by not doing regular maintenance. Pinside is a great place to find people wanting to help so don't be afraid to ask. Half the fun of this hobby is working on these machines.
Quoted from Stu:I'm working on the DE Star Wars Playfield Artwork right now, and as soon as I'm done with it I'll start working on the Plastics artwork. I have a full set of NOS Plastics scans to work from. Once the plastics artwork is done I'll have Kevin push it through production as these are needed badly ( the current "common broken" pieces that are available really do suck! ).....No idea of when we might get the Playfield into production but at least the artwork will be done ( and I have an NOS Playfield here that I'm working from ).....Other DE Playfields that I already have artwork completed for: DE Tommy, DE Star Trek, DE Guns-N-Roses....and I will most likely do the Tommy plastics as well.....
Hell ya. Have really good cab decals already from Pheonix and a NOS R2. If playfields and plastics get done I'll be able to fully restore my pin to look almost new. Just need to find a damn Death Star. =(
The Ebay gods have smiled upon me! Was able to finally score a NOS translite for SW for a pretty decent price. Been looking for one of these for over a year with no luck until now. Been using a repro in the meantime that didn't look as nice under the light. Just need a new R2 dome and Death Star and I'll be a happy camper.
Got lucky. There was two listed a week apart. I got into a bidding war and lost the first when it went over $350. A week later another popped up from the same seller and I was able to get it without any heavy bid wars for almost half the price. I think it just got lost in the mix of all the repro's that are always listed.
Don't bother with the pinball universe plastics unless you're just trying to save money. They're not nearly as nice as the ones available via pinball center. I can post pictures if people would like to see the difference.
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:Hmm, the set I got, including slings, looks pretty good. Admittedly, they have two sets and I haven't seen the other. The death star triangle plastic greys are kind of dark but that's the only thing I've noticed.
I might grab the Up/Down handle plastic from pinball center but hoo boy you are right: With shipping it's really expensive!
http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/star-wars-fire-plastic-p-7207.html?language=english
Colors are closer and the print quality is way better on the PinballCenter ones. I thought the Pin Universe set looked OK before I put them on my machine too but the colors really washed out under the lights. Not saying the PinballCenter ones are perfect, just better. Hopefully CPR does a repro one day so we have a quality solution. :/
Quoted from MustangPaul:Look at my left and right out lanes. 2 plastic guides each, one on top of the other.
IMGA0920.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
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Holy poop. Your Princess Leia doesn't have a beard.
Quoted from JFirenze:Hey all!
I just got my DESW yesterday and I am loving it. A few questions for the group:
My translite, while original, isn't in the best of shape. Has anyone purchased one of these repros from "ClassicArcades" off ebay?
If so, how do you like it?
I had a hell of a time finding a quality repro and NOS translites are few and far between. The best one I found was from Arcade overlays ( http://www.arcadeoverlays.com/ ) Not sure if they still repro it but it doesn't hurt to send an email. I eventually found a NOS one on Ebay but it took me over a year of searching beforehand and I check ebay almost everyday.
Quoted from BestShot31:Does anyone know where I can purchase a Death Star? Mine is broken.
SW_death_star_(resized).JPG
Quoted from Bikleberry:Hi all, I'm yet another new member to the club!
Found a somewhat worse-for-wear pin and jumped at the chance to get it locally as a Christmas present to myself.
Now the task of restoring it.
1. Can anyone point me to a good, detailed step-by-step breakdown of how to best apply cabinet decals?
2. I want to go full LED's, but in talking to a local parts supplier he was sour on the idea of kits. Thoughts?
Who's used a LED kit? Feedback on it? Which ones do you all recommend or not?
3. Is there a source out there for a 'Bulb Map' that inventory and show exactly which bulbs go where?
4. Other than pf protector and cliffy parts, what do you recommend for protection/preservation on this machine?
Any general tips for a newbie are welcome; as I'm still trying to get through this very helpful archive. Thanks very much to koops, your directions were perfectly helpful.
Cheers.
If you're going to LED up your Star Wars look into getting an LED OCD board to smooth the light show. There's also a GI board you can purchase that really helps match the look and dimming of incandescent bulbs. (https://sites.google.com/site/energimaestro/LED)
kits are hit or miss depending on your taste. I ended up getting one for the inserts and buying individual warm whites for the GI. Most SW kits seem to use a bunch of blue in the GI which I'm not a fan of. If you have the manual there is a page that lists all the bulbs along with where they go. If you don't you can just download it here.(http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=2358)
The only other thing I'd also recommend for protecting your game is maybe nvram to remove the need for batteries.
Welcome to the club!
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:Shouldn't spend more than $2.5k for a DE:SW...
While I agree with this price for this game can you really find a SW:DE that isn't a project for less than 3k these days?
Quoted from comment23:So, it seems pretty impossible to find a decent backglass or death star toy anywhere right?
Not impossible. Managed to score a NOS translite and a nice used Death Star off of Ebay last year. I was checking almost everyday for over a year though.
Quoted from wspy:Anyone preordered a SW playfield from CPR? I did but never heard back from CPR so I was wondering if it was "normal"... I also tried to contact their support but no reply either...
Normal. It'll be a bit before you hear anything. Usually playfield needs to be in the pipe and they're finalizing sales which could take months.
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