Just picked up a DE SW and JP. Besides being dirty, the SW has one problem I need help with. The Death Star target is down. There is nothing to lift it back in front of the death star. The target is broken, (New one on order) but without the mechanism to lift the target up, it won't be much good.

I did find the wiring harness for whatever it is laying in the bottom of the machine. Can someone help me out by showing a picture of what a complete assembly looks like, and a possible source for the parts? Thanks

Much thanks to Hawk for sending me the drop assembly - I am going to try and repair it once I'm back home. In a related sense, can someone post a pic of what is under the Death Star? All I had was a connector with three wires dangling from it. Thanks

Hey all -

I just found what I am hoping will be an acceptable topper for the machine. Since many of us have modified the heck out of our machines, I don't see the difference being too big of a deal.

I found a Darth Vader Racers Collector case with 3 racers at Disneyworld. Its heavy plastic, the base is 13.5" wide, 12.5" high, and 2" wide. Attached are pics. The biggest visual difference is the shoulder area.

I plan to keep it whole, and screw it to the top of the machine, utilizing spacers to keep from cracking the plastic. Heck, I'll probably keep the cars in it too.

I'll post a pic of it installed once I get home, but even with Disney's inflated prices, this was only $20 - sure beats the $70+ I've seen advertised for OEM toppers.

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I had issues with my backbox lights - I traced the issue to a bad connector - I replaced the connector and that took care of it. Follow the cable from the backbox lights to the boards - you should find a connector before getting to the circuit boards - that was the bad connector. Wiggle the wire that feeds that section of lights (I don't remember the color, but you should be able to see it.) and see if the lights come back.

I doubt you shorted something out using the meter - if anything, you may have shorted across the meter lead tip and blew a fuse.

I'm not sure about the death star target. Verify the motor is plugged in, then run diagnostics. Good Luck

I finally got all the parts I needed for the Death Star. Now, I need a bit more help. Can someone post pictures of the wiring going to the bar motor switches? I need to figure out which wires go on which switch terminals and the orientation of the diodes. Thanks

My issue was a bad connector between the power board and those GI lights. Look for something that looks like it has connectors on both sides of it. Follow the wiring from the backglass GI to the power boards - you should find it.

I'm out of town for awhile, so I can't provide pictures, so going by memory...Set meter on AC volts - verify meter is working by reading the voltage across a bulb that is working. Now, clip one of the leads to the a common lead of the group that does not work. Follow the other lead (Use the wire color to help follow it to a connector.) Touch the meter lead to the pin of the connector that has that wire color. (With a small point tip on the meter lead, you can touch the side of the pin in the connector.) Keep going back toward the Power board until you find a voltage reading. You will end up reading voltage on one side of a connector, but not on the side toward the lights. That connector is the problem - wiggle the wire to see if those lights come back on. If they come on, that's where the problem is. You may have a broken wire or a bad connection on the connector. I generally replace the IDT connector with crimped contacts, others prefer displacement type. Your call.

RD -

I'll PM when I get back home in mid April.

Is there anybody out there who can send me a pic of the wiring to the switches on the Death Star, and also show a pic showing the orientation of the diodes? Thanks

RD & Korn
Here's the pictures of my backbox GI lighting. There's two sets of wires for the lighting - Wh/Purple and purple, and Wh/Green and green. These pairs go to a "Z" connector between the power board and the lights. My problem was with the IDT connectors had bad wire to pin contact. When I wiggled one of the wires for the pair that fed the backlights that were not illuminated, I could get the lights to illuminate. Since I wasn't for sure which side of the Z connector had the issue, I replaced both of the connectors feeding the Z connector.

When I said to clip the lead, I was referring to clipping the alligator clip to the wire. (I have alligator clips for my meter.) I just worked my way from the backboard lights to the connector. When I had power on one side of the Z connector but not on the other, I knew that's where the problem was.

If this isn't clear, PM me and we can talk.

By any chance can someone send me pictures of the wiring to the death star switches under the death star? I want to know for sure which color wires go to which connection on the switches and the orientation of the diodes on the switches. My switch assembly only has two switches, no diodes, and I can't find which wires go to which side of the switches.

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DE Star Wars Death Star Help Needed

Can someone post pictures of the wiring going to the bar motor switches? I need to figure out which wires go on which switch terminals and the orientation of the diodes. Thanks

Paynemic - I had the same issue with my back glass lighting - I found a bad connection in a connector that feeds the lighting. If memory is correct, there's a Z connector in line with the voltage feeds. I ended up redoing a pin on one of the connectors that used the Z.

Not sure about your X mode lights, but I would go from the light to the power source, and check every pin for voltage. Likely you have a connector issue.

Good Luck

Paynemic - Refer to some of my earlier posts in this thread addressing the same back box lighting problem. There's a picture of a Z connector.

As far as the X wing lights - are you referring to the flashers behind the square targets? There's regular GI lighting and flashers. Check the bulbs on the flashers - I thought I read somewhere that there are issues with flasher bulbs if too many of them are burned out. (Caution - I may be remembering something different that is not applicable to this machine.)

Run a flasher light test in diagnostics.

Paynemic - Interesting. The manual does not list that light other than it being a 555. It's not on the lamp matrix page. When I get a chance, I'll see if I can find it on my machine and trace it back. It may not be until next week.

Anyone else want to chime in?

Paynemic -

The light for the X mode is light 19 - it's mislabeled on the lamp matrix as "Lite 3CPO eyes". The wire color is red with brown and Yellow with orange. The actual 3CPO eye lights are lights 26 & 28, and are on a light circuit board. I was going to post a picture, but I could not get the colors to turn out right.

Paulb

I assume you are asking about the drop targets?

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I was referring to the lane to the right of the death star, above the extra ball lite. I didn't notice the Xwing fighter going to the death star. Its possible I got the color wrong on the red wire - it was hard to tell. I am pretty positive about the yellow with orange.

I am using the manual that is on IPDB. Next time I'm home, I'll verify the lamp number. Thanks for checking up on me - I don't want to give wrong information.

If the game starts, then that should rule out power issues to the MPU. What does your driver board look like? Check to make sure the connectors are not baked. They look brown/black if they are.

If a connector is cooked, both the male and female pins will need to be replaced.

If you can, post a few pics of the circuit boards in the head.

Enki - Unless the screws are bad, I toss them in a vibrating tumbler with whatever liquid you prefer and let it go for a few days. Expect to have to pick out pieces of shell from the slots, but they come out clean and reusable. Not sure I would go thru the expense of getting new screws when they are easily cleaned.

You mentioned you are new at this, so a little unsolicited advice: Take pictures of EVERY step during your breakdown process. That includes removing the holders for the plastics, the screws for the posts, etc. I lay the screw next to the post with a coin so I can verify the length of the screw. There ends up at least two pictures for every step - a closeup allowing me to tell the size, and a larger view so I can see where that post is located on the playfield. If you remove a switch, make sure you can see the wire colors in a picture. You can never have too many pictures, and your memory will never be perfect for every step. I typically end up with well over 150 pictures for a new to me pinball machine breakdown.

Welcome to the joy of ownership!

Enki - you have your work cut out for you. I don’t remember anyone having a BOM (Bill of Materials) for this machine. I think I can say with fair confidence that all the screws are US, likely a mix of #6 & 8 wood screws, #4 wood screws for putting R2 together. The short screws are likely 3/8th inch long, screws for posts are likely 1 1/8th inch. These are educated guesses.

I have a SW, and can offer some help for specific areas - I would have to remove a piece to measure, or conversely, someone in this group may readily know the size. I won’t be back from holiday for another two weeks, so I won’t be able to help immediately.

Keep everyone informed on how you’re progressing. I’m sure there are others who are following and may chime in.

Enki -

http://www.pinrestore.com/Riveting.html

Not sure what to do about your importing issue though

Chair - attached are two pics showing my ground straps. I’m not saying they are correct, but this is how I got the machine.

The pic showing the straps for the display, one strap goes to the diagonal corner, the other goes to the speaker.

The other one shows the ground strap that goes to the head locking mechanism.

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Chair- reach out to Chris Hibler. He might do that work

Mikespins, or anybody else who had the DV topper -

How is your topper mounted? Screws, tape, etc.?

Mike’s pins. Thanks. Several years ago ( before toppers became the overpriced rage), I bought a DV matchbox style car holder from Disneyworld. I told folks where I got it, and that I was thinking of mounting it on top of my machine with screws. I got several responses, mostly all saying I would never mount anything on top of my machine with screws- it would ruin the value of the machine.

My, how times have changed!

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It all depends on how the transistor fails. Measure the transistor in question and compare its readings to others of the same part number on the circuit board. Alternatively, just change the transistor if you can. Usually they are pretty cheap.

EmptyH-
You need to replace that resistor - trying to solder back onto the board is possible, but you will be reducing the clearance the resistor has from the board. The resistor is off of the board to keep from cooking the board and keep it cooler.

I don’t know what F7 is for, but I would guess it’s for your display. If you replace the fuse with the correct value and it blows, then your display is bad or the cable sending power to it is shorted. Put the fuse in with power off.

Replace the fuse, unplug the power to the display, power up and see if the fuse still blows.

Report back.

EmptyH
You have a power supply issue. Use Pinwiki to troubleshoot it.

I have hope that your display board is OK.

Hopefully, others will chime in, too.

Verify there are no shorts between the pins on J5. Carbon is conductive, and it looks like you have a lot of potential there.

Congrats - remember, we all started somewhere. You're ready for the next repair now!

Did the fuses go back tightly in the holders? Are the caps on the fuses corroded/tarnished? Just ideas in case it happens again.