Anyone in here replace all of their plastics with a full set and have spares they might be willing to sell off? I am looking for these two if at all possible.

Thanks!

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https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/143009
Add up in market if anyone looking for DE Star Wars

I think I have these two. I’ll check.

FLASHBALL i do indeed have both of these left from my new set that were never used. I’ll shoot you a PM.

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Been looking for one for a while and got this which at one point belonged to a fellow Pinside who did some great updates to it including a colordmd, Pinsound and Chad code. Lot of fun, and frankly better than a modern Stern with those updates.

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Has anyone had issues with missing dmd animations?

My game is working and displays all the correct animations except the default screen that shows the score large. I was going to order a ribbon cable and updated roms, but wanted to check here first. Thanks!

In case it hasn't been posted yet -- https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/starwars-2/

Digging the SW galaxy picture on wall, where did you find that?

Bumping this to see if anyone has any insight before I place an order

Clarify what exactly is wrong?
Note: Data East's Star Wars software does not have a direct DMD code call stack system;
....... as DE GnR has. Those, GnR DMD display show sequences are much better and fluid.

The dmd works and all the animations are displayed correctly except what the dmd defaults to when no switches are activated. The screen that shows xxx,xxx,xxx points, current ball, and the amount of credits/free play never shows up.

That is a communication data problem, from the main cpu to the DMD display driver board
1) Reseat the ribbon connector harness...
2) Test continuity from the 6821PIA ports to the male ribbon pins CPU/DMD driver board.
2a) Could be faulty PIA, broken male ribbon pin, bad communication ribbon harness.

Ok, thank you for the suggestions. It's a new rottendog mpu so hoping it's the ribbon. I'll report back

Thanks! It’s actually a bunch of post cards from a set I bought at Disneyworld and had framed.

Added some small additions.

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They look great! Where did you get them?

From my son's old toy stash . They are actually HotWheels and made of metal so they should hold up nicely. I've seen several others use the same line of HotWheels on other placements on these and newer Sten machines I just had never seen these two particular ones. https://www.amazon.com/star-wars-hot-wheels/s

Hi

I got a problem with my SWDE, I bought the game totally stripped down and all hardware put in a big box, the previous owner died so I bought it from his wife. I am putting it all back together and I got a problem I cannot figure out. The outhole coil will not fire so far, I have done the following.

* Checked switch which works fine
* Tried coil test which does not work, however I hear the relay click
* Measured the voltage on the coil to ground which is about 38v on both lugs
* Measured ohm on the coil which is about 4,1
* Tried to short transistor Q46 which did not work
* Tried to short the coil directly to ground which did work

I read somewhere that if I shorted Q29 it would make several coils fire but the only thing I hear is the relay click

I was thinking to change the transistor, but a faulty transistor should make the coil lock energized all the time which it does not?

It all depends on how the transistor fails. Measure the transistor in question and compare its readings to others of the same part number on the circuit board. Alternatively, just change the transistor if you can. Usually they are pretty cheap.

1) put game in flasher/bright test.
1a) does 1R flashers work?
Flasher 1r = left standup, 1r = center stand ups, 1r = right stand up. 1r = backbox.
No?
1b) bad connection/continuity ppb board... to cpu board... to transistor.
Yes?
1c) then problem to outhole coil is connection/continuity ppb board.

Note: make sure flasher lamps are good #89/#906

The bar motor on my DESW does not always fully open, sometimes partially and after ball play it might open. The next ball it will work as it should. I am thinking of replacing the bar motor and ordered one from Marco.
Has anyone replaced the bar motor with the one from Marco? There are two unidentifiable leads (both plain yellow wires). I am assuming that the placement of the wires is irrelevant. There is a capacitor in the circuit directly at the connection. I believe this is required. In the comments on the Marco site that states that the shaft is slightly larger and requires opening up the hole to the motor cam.

1st, check all cold solder joints to all associated components for the motor assembly.

I would look close at the gate stop and go switches too.

I will check the switches. I found out that I have another issue. After changing the dmd to a color dmd the diagnostics menu appears to be blank. Does anyone else have this issue and how do I remedy the issue?

ColorDMD or Pin2DMD? the Pin2DMD colorization by CB3 has a bug, he never finished working on the menues. You'll have to remove the card, use the menu, put it back. The ColorDMD works flawlessly.

It’s the pin2dmd. That requires some disassembly as there is not enough room to pop the card out. Would like a better solution if available.

Change the default palette. That should do the trick.

I am new to this. Where and how do you change the color palette?

Anyone interested in a trade for a rush pro?

Use the on screen menu:
The onscreen menu

The menu can be activated by holding one of the two buttons (menu/option or Btn1/Btn2 on EVO boards) during boot. You can also navigate through the menu with these two buttons. You should adjust the rgb sequence of your panels that the boot splash colors look like the picture on top of this page (red left, yellow right) You can also access additional parameters like devicemode, default palette, brightness, display the Unique Device ID etc.

You can also use the editor:
https://pin2dmd.com/tool/

The flashers did not work and I ohm measured between CN11 pin 1 to J1 pin 1 and there is continuinity.

The transistor is not burnt but I guess the easiest solution right now would be to just change the transistor and hope for the best.

I had some time this weekend and back at the bar motor issue. The motor from Marco appears to be exactly what was in my machine, perhaps it had been changed previously. The motor, back plate and switch were replaced. The switch was adjusted and the machine tested. The target still at times does not fully open. Not sure where to go next. The switches for the target up/down were tested and appear to function properly. There are no cold solder joints. I only managed to get in a partial game as the power kept going out and I didn’t want to risk surges damaging the game. There is a relay for the motor and it appears to be unobtanium. Not sure if the relay board is an issue.
Next steps?

Does the drive stud on the 515-5202-00 Cam wheel have the plastic spacer sleeve on?
The sleeve meshes with the 545-5350-00 Target Back Plate.

Yes the plastic sleeve is on the cam. With the motor and bracket removed, the target assembly moves up/down freely and smoothly.

I think I have found the issue. Never noticed it previously however I think it was the bar target adjusted to close. When the target moved to the down position at the start of the ball it must have triggered the switch and therefore didn’t go to skill shot mode. After the bar motor rebuild (another issue in my posts) after reassembly the switch was constantly made. I adjusted the switch and have played several games with the skill shot sequence working properly. Several games might not be enough to say it’s fixed however I am reasonably confident that was the issue……..now back to the bar motor issue in the continuing saga of restoration……

Does anyone have any experience purchasing a replacement power transformer for this machine. Mine just burned out and I’m struggling to find any for sale on line.

Still working on this. Dealer I bought from is looking as well. Have a 1 year warranty on it so not terribly worried. Does anyone have any experience with retrofitting transformers from other machines? Just wondering if that’s even possible/wise to attempt.

OUCH!

Try directly emailing Todd at www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com he may have what you need. You will need to give him the numbers from the factory transformer.

Ok thanks for the info will give him a try!

The relay board was removed and inspected. There were no cold solder joints nor broken wires. So I decided to swap out the bar motor relay board with the Death Star relay board. The bar motor now works as it should. The Death Star only rotates, so once it starts it works. The game has been play adore than ten times and has been working flawlessly. No the huge question is how to get a replacement for the relay board. Does anyone know where to get one or has a solution to the issue?

Replace the relay if you think its' bad, easy enough to do.

New to the group and have been reading the posts which go back 8 years. Clearly there’s a wealth of knowledge buried in this thread. I’m wondering if anyone has compiled a list of the top mods for this machine which are currently available? I’m a new owner of this machine and very new to pinball machines but very interested in learning and customizing this machine. So far it seems like Chad’s Code Update is a big one, have a few links for plastics, parts, paint and vehicles, ColorDMD. Does anyone have a recommendation for lighting mods (stadium or otherwise) and sound mods? Thanks in advance for the help!

Pinsound, must get pinsound!

If you don't want to fork out for a Pinsound, these Data East noise/hum filters do a great job of reducing (almost eliminating) the annoying speaker hum.

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-noisehum-filter.html

First 3 mods I suggest for DESW:
Chad's code
NVRAM
Cliffy's protectors

While only the code update will affect gameplay, the other 2 are about protecting against (further) damage. All 3 are relatively inexpensive and easy to install.

Edit to add: when you order the protectors, make sure to include the orb ring for TotAN. Fits perfectly around the VUK by R2.

https://www.catandsean.org/2022/07/18/data-east-star-wars-vertical-up-kicker-protector/

Good stuff thanks guys!

Here's a summary of mods based on those noted and others I've seen and think look great.

1) Pinsound (probably the first thing I'd recommend)
2) Chad's Code
3) Cliffy protectors
4) ColorDMD or Pin2DMD
5) Star Wars Hot Wheels or Micro Machines mounted to your choosing
6) Art blades, several options to choose from
7) Custom lightsabers that tie into the GI (several types and sizes people sell)
8) Apron cards are easy and I think a nice way to pop some new art in
9) Custom stickers on the drop targets and Death Star door

I can recommend the pinsound shaker as well. Really adds to the immersve fun.

So I never heard of this device. Thanks for the post. I have a data east Simpsons and desw. neither of my machines have this hum. I have replaced the woofers on both of these machines. I don't remember if they had the hum prior, but even this filter doesn't seem to get rid of all the hum on the website video. And my machines have exactly no hum. I'm thinking maybe this is a speaker problem? Anybody else have this hum?

It's very common with DE machines.