OUCH! People usually want the Millennium Falcon plastic.

Tried this tonight and I can reproduce the effects.

Funny. I have that piece lol

I'm going to try and plug in lamp testing module and see if it exhibits the same. Forgot I had it actually! Plugs into mpu headers and bypasses playfield totally.

I have a set I'm ordering if you dont find one, my current one is fine.

where did you order from? I need that one piece and a few others like back left too plastic. Whatever you don’t use and if I need I will buy off you

Plugging in my Siegecraft lamp matrix tester reveals it is a code/mpu issue as all the playfield wiring and lamps are bypassed. Its faint but you can see the lamps on the first column flicker.

20201230_104520_1.gif

20201230_104627.jpg

Wonder if this is something ChadH could fix?

Is the GI issue you guys are referring to related to power save settings? I had to turn this off (not sure about this pin) in order to not have LED flickering issues (in addition to having ng leds)

Not a GI issue.

These 8 lights right here.

20201230_195705 (resized).jpg

Been busy! Orders came in!

Titan black elastics

Stand up target faces and Cliffys from Marco

Lots of LEDs from Comet

White Retro Sunlite in the Backbox
White 5 led flashers in Backbox

Most of the inserts are 1SMD 5050 clear dome natural white with a few colored here and there.

Playfield LED for Flacon is a 2 LED on stalks so its better lit.

Red frosted 1SMD 5050 in "STAR WARS" inserts and poppers.

Blue frosted 1SMD 5050 in R2D2

Most of the GI is warm white frosted 1SMD 5050 with a clear dome in select locations.

Playfield flashers are a mix of either 8 LED on adjustable stalks or 5 LED for a less powerful flash if something is in your face.

20210101_101537 (resized).jpg

20210101_121051 (resized).jpg

These 8 lights are fine on my brothers pin. Using NG Comet LEDs

What code on the mpu?

Chads 1.07. But it also had the 1.02 and it was fine

I have some bayonet style led I can hook up with a jumper, I'll try this morning and post results. It does it with incandescent too so not optimistic.

Could you do this club a HUGE favor and check the version that it originally came with.

There is a early version that includes some code that Chadh has been looking to obtain for quite some time.

Its a long shot but always worth asking when a machine with very old code shows up. Its probably unlikely as I cant see any of the beta/early production typical items (clear star wars letters, curved drop target plastic etc).

We've been asking quite a few people but have yep to stumble upon someone that actually has it.

Pretty sure it was 1.02 or 1.03. Have not erased eprom so easy enough to check.

Hooked up a Comet Matrix adapter, a star post lamp and a NG bulb off that, no change.

Any chance brother is running Comet Optix? They have small capacitor due to early solid state flickering. I might experiment with some caps on the board.

The only time this happens is during gameplay when Force or Jabba scoop fires. As soon as a sling or popper is hit it stops till scoops are hit again.

20210102_071641_1.gif

If you are having issues holding power, I’d highly recommend you get an Xpin Power Board. That will solve this issue

Its not the power board, people have already tried swapping them.

Only one column of the lighting matrix is effected and only after one of the scoops fire, it goes away after a sling or popper fires. It is a noted issue on this title. It will even do it with a minimal draw SiegeCraft lighting tester. The controlled lighting matrix all draw their power through the MPU off the same power line.

Something to do with the refresh rate in the code I'm told. My next experiment is to swap in a different game rom to narrow it down further or add caps to the lamps in question as an experiment. It really doesn't bother me at this point as it is a noted issue, not something broken or failing.

Not having this issue whatsoever. So curious where this is a noted issue. Anybody else reporting this?

Just in the last day or two and there is a seperate thread related.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-star-wars-clubmembers-fans-welcome/page/76#post-6043527

I have also checked voltages on the string, they check out fine.

Does your brother have a Rottendog MPU by any chance? Trying to narrow down variables.

Can you start a game, lob a ball into a scoop and verify?

I rebuild it. It had an original PS and worked fine with Comet NG LEDs. Installed an Xpin when we swapped out the screen with a ColorDMD and Pinsound. The lights are super bright and solid all night long - we play with no lights on arcade style and I can assure you I’d notice any flickering/dimming. If you do end up swapping, highly recommend Xpin over Rottendog.

Power supply has already been eliminated, I have xpin on hand along with stock DE for troubleshooting.

Stock MPU

You might have a small AC voltage leak from the +18volt bridge?

It would impact all the lamps on the matrix would it not?

I do not know? But, the first strobe is activated for a long time... as compared to the other
lamp strobes... One needs to put the game on lamp test with all lamps on/off to see effect.
Or temporally insert a new bridge to test... and see if problem persists.

Never a problem in lamp test or attract mode.

Its JUST when the ball is ejected from scoops during gameplay.

Could it be a spike short, from a small short somewhere under the playfield
that interrupts the strobe line?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-star-wars-clubmembers-fans-welcome/page/76#post-6044458

Playfield lamp wiring was bypassed.

That led board is very hard to read...
I assume it is in attract mode ... If so, then your bottom bumper is not lighting.
Your credit button is not working right ....etc.
On a side note:
Why are all the wires on the test board the same color? [ green]?
Can you take clean pictures of the lamp connectors?

Star Wars attract mode...
should be
1) propeller fx [clock wise 3 times ]
2) propeller fx [ counter clock wise 2 times ]
3) sweep left to right
4) up sides down middle
5) fan left to right [ 13 times ] etc.
does your game do this ?

All the lamps work, running ChadH 1.07

Hi there, not sure if this is the right place to post this or not. I finally got the chance to buy this pin after years of searching. Going to make it all shiny and what not. Have order some parts already to replace, hard targets, Death Star motor sounds like a grinder etc... I’m trying to find a list of all the screw sizes I need for the play field so I can replace them as they are a little grim. Anyone have an idea of what I need? Sry this is my first pin owned and learning as I go.

Enki - Unless the screws are bad, I toss them in a vibrating tumbler with whatever liquid you prefer and let it go for a few days. Expect to have to pick out pieces of shell from the slots, but they come out clean and reusable. Not sure I would go thru the expense of getting new screws when they are easily cleaned.

You mentioned you are new at this, so a little unsolicited advice: Take pictures of EVERY step during your breakdown process. That includes removing the holders for the plastics, the screws for the posts, etc. I lay the screw next to the post with a coin so I can verify the length of the screw. There ends up at least two pictures for every step - a closeup allowing me to tell the size, and a larger view so I can see where that post is located on the playfield. If you remove a switch, make sure you can see the wire colors in a picture. You can never have too many pictures, and your memory will never be perfect for every step. I typically end up with well over 150 pictures for a new to me pinball machine breakdown.

Welcome to the joy of ownership!

Very solid advice! Take many, many pictures. From all angles. And then some more.

Billc - some of the screws are stripped, I had to put mull grips on em to get off. The R2 Body is missing screws. There is a mix of UK and US screws holding stuff together and I don’t have a tumbler. Thought it would be easier just to order all the necessary nuts, screws and bolts to change out so they aren’t Frankenstein pieces instead of removing, measuring then converting everything to fraction sizes....

Thanks for the advice, I definitely will have to do that and learn some electronics. Re soldered a wire to a pop bumper and fried it. Didn’t realise I did something bad until the play area was getting foggy haha fml

Enki - you have your work cut out for you. I don’t remember anyone having a BOM (Bill of Materials) for this machine. I think I can say with fair confidence that all the screws are US, likely a mix of #6 & 8 wood screws, #4 wood screws for putting R2 together. The short screws are likely 3/8th inch long, screws for posts are likely 1 1/8th inch. These are educated guesses.

I have a SW, and can offer some help for specific areas - I would have to remove a piece to measure, or conversely, someone in this group may readily know the size. I won’t be back from holiday for another two weeks, so I won’t be able to help immediately.

Keep everyone informed on how you’re progressing. I’m sure there are others who are following and may chime in.

I think you mean #6 & #8 machine screws & washers (although I think there might be a couple wood screws, just can’t remember where) These are common in the US but not sure over seas. In the states, Home Depot carry’s these. I highly recommend getting new ones including #6 and #8 nylon threaded nuts. The assumption is you are taking it to the playfield and replacing plastics, etc. the clean parts make a difference. You also don’t need and expensive tumbler, use the dishwasher. Most of the wire forms will fit and clean in there as well. Do not put the ramp in the dishwasher. It has welds and will leave a rust mess. And like mentioned above, take lots of pictures as you take it apart. You will forgot

Toys are starting to show up..

Installing a buck booster to the sound board tonight, post video later.

20210105_171321 (resized).jpg

Star Wars with buck booster

Playboy with buck booster.

Playboy is LOUD, after install of the booster was virtually silent. Its easily the loudest as far as hum goes in my DE fleet.

Its so quiet now i have to look to see if its on

If anyone is interested in one of these "plug and play" I'm going to be making up a handful.

Gary

Cab repairs complete!

Color didn't change, just lighting and contrast.

head repair (resized).jpg

alright everyone. check this out. I have been 3d printing for years, I don't even want to share my collection because you all would have a bidding war or get my address and raid my man cave. I have been working on something, going to give you all a taste. please let me know what you think. complete replacement for the lame R2 unit. the legs are printing now, so detailed!. these are printed in resin.

63191091672__C72E7BFF-5554-4D0A-B999-7BA136475808 (resized).jpeg

IMG_1070 (resized).jpeg

IMG_1117 (resized).jpeg

Wow that looks fantastic so far! I'm sure a lot of people would be happy to replace their worn out R2D2 with such a high quality item.

Awesome! Great detail

legs are finished, shoulder hubs printing now. not sure if I will use the hubs but they will be available. tonight I will print the dome inserts, I have transparent blue resin so lights will show through. if I can master this I would offer the files to the forum, or if you don't have a resin printer I would be happy to print and ship in a kit form, or just finish myself

IMG_1122 (resized).jpeg

I would love a kit, as I have no access to a printer. This is going to be so cool

Me too! I'd buy one for sure.

Awesome work. I’d be in if you decide to offer it up.