Good eye. Anybody want to contact him? I doubt he will be willing to remove the ROM but maybe his buyer might?

I just sent him a PM!

Should see if there is a us based pinsider localish that could make the trip and help out?

I’m worried this is the one chance we get (New owner could upgrade and might not realise what they have) and it will be gone because someone couldn’t be bothered. Would gladly help out if needed to pay for some fuel/time for a road trip.

I just sent him a message too just asking him to consider helping. We'll see how it goes.

I worry that it is the same old program...
The game has to have three different changes
in order to be a prototype...
1) The display ROM has to be different.
2) The CPU game software ROM has to be different.
3) The cabinet "T" control has to be different.
and in addition, but not as important,
4) The card tray has to have the prototype decals.

Do you have the exact link to the pin? If reasonably priced I’d buy it straight up just for the chip if necessary. Would like to see proof of course.

I see his profile but not the pin

NM, I found it. He tagged on a wanted ad. I sent him a message as well for proof. If it’s legit, I’ll straight up buy it for the chip as long as it’s reasonable. The machine can be resold later as a nice prototype

or keep it and sell your standard production one ;p

Yeah I have serious doubts, but he agreed to send me proof. So we’ll see. I hope I’m wrong, it will be the Star Wats Holy Grail if it’s true

He's claiming it shows the speeder mode.

So i'm not disagreeing that it may not be a 100% pure (to your definition of how the prototypes differed from production) rather but might be good enough for ChadH's investigation of possibly "adding the mode back in".

Yeah “Speeder Mode” is a bad sign. I believe it should show “Video Mode”

But I’ll know if it’s working. More importantly what ROM version is displayed

The guy is stalling, so I'm having some serious doubts. I pinged him again, but I'm pretty sure its going to be code and speeder we've already seen

He never replied to my messages sent via Facebook either.

Hopefully I'm wrong. But if I had the prototype as he advertising, it would be a huge selling point to have some pictures (and videos) proving it other than the very distant pic he posted.

Will stay on him though until I know for sure

He may think speeder mode that doesn’t work means it’s the early rom.

Who knows. A video would be nice or a picture of the rom or any other marking that would maybe indicate prototype.

Ok, so he has the 1.03 ROM which is unlikely going to have Video Mode working. He says he’s gonna post a video but this isn’t gonna pan out. Well, at least we’re on the lookout

356E0FE4-08F9-4B67-A4DC-73872BC9461A (resized).png

taking waaay too long, probably a fake.....

Hello, having a first time issue with my Star Wars. Keeps saying 1 ball missing when all balls present. Will not start a game and all coils kick a ball out when I drop one in.

My first guess is that it’s a switch issue in the trough that’s failing to acknowledge but I’m not an expert and haven’t had the issue in any other machines.

If so, if you could tell me the kind of switch I can order it from Marcos but I’m a beginner when it comes to knowing about switches.

Thanks!

Look at your trough switches. Could easily be a broken wire. You can run through the diagnostics and check the active switches. It will show you which one is not registering. Or you can take the balls out and put it in switch test and manually trigger each trough switch and find out which one is not working.

Hey all,

I am getting some crazy air balls, coming off the angled X wing targets in the center of the playfield. I bought new foam for behind the switches, unfortunately that did not help. Ball can easily end up in the shooter lane after hitting the targets, just wondering if there has been any good fixes for this problem.

Thanks,

You should also have foam below the plastic over the scoop

Yes, I have foam below that plastic as well, its about 1" thick. I was looking at it wondering if that upper plastic should be lowered down, mine has a second plastic piece below one with the foam on it.

What targets do you have there? I replaced the targets on mine and got the wrong ones, they would bend after a number of plays and start giving air balls.

I know they are not stock, but I think they would be almost the same?

20190609_183617 (resized).jpg

How is you foam behind the Targets? I can see you have some but it looks a little worn. You might try evening out the right one with the left to have a down angle, but other than this I think the only thing you can do is have good backing foam

I ordered and put new foam on already, did not help. Although the foam I bought seems quite dense, but was sold for this application, almost seems to add to the bouncing. I will see what can be done this weekend with angling the targets down

I get alot of airballs to. Just got some new glass and you can see scratches already from the ball. I think it is just the design of the game.

Make sure the big support that the foam attaches to is not bent back. If it is, it’s allowing the target to flex more and become a jump ramp.

I get airballs from the posts either side of the Death Star lane - especially the right hand one. Strange ...the post is fine - solid, vertical. Occasionally it can end up back in the shooter lane

On my brothers pin, there are a few air balls but not anything more than any other 90’s pin. If you are having excessive air balls, then something’s off

I have seen the Airball into the shooter lane, but not common

You don't play enough!

Having issues with my flashers not working and back box lights being dimmed at times. I can jiggle the wires and the lights either work fully or turn off. I was advised to change the connector and repin the wires.

The picture shown is that of the correct/old connector. I took that then cut the wires. What I didn’t realize Until after cutting is that some of the wires are the same color.

I traced everything back the best I could and repinned and reconnected but now the top half of the back box lights are off and none of the flashers are still working. I believe I have 2 wrongly placed pins.

What I am asking is if anyone familiar with the order and knows which pin controls those 2 issues?

In case it’s unclear that is the connection at the bottom left inside the back box.

929D2F51-5B45-49EA-AED5-4C45EF609B43 (resized).jpeg

That connector is GI only and has nothing to do with the flashers.

If you only did the connector you could still have issues with the header pins. Remove the board and reflow solder at the pins, or replace.
Worth checking the fuse clips also - common fail point on these DE.

https://www.ipdb.org/files/2358/Data_East_1992_Star_Wars_Schematic_Diagrams_English_Manual_pages_46_69.pdf

GI (resized).JPG

flashers (resized).JPG

So J5 is the one I am repinning. I apologize if I misspoke

The fuse clip shown at f4 is bad check them all. Bad headers and pins are also bad problems with data-east games check solder the joints on back side.

I'm just following up to this post, I straightened the thick metal post at the back, as well as adjusted the foam in behind the switches. Air balls are not eliminated, but greatly reduced.

Thanks, for all the suggestions everyone

Just got a copy of the main metal ramp for Star Wars Data East. Thinking hard about remaking the stainless steel ramp. Anyone interested in that ?

Kerry - Mantis

Possibly, depends on price and quality

Here!

New metal ramps would sell very well. I'd take one.

Also, another queston, I am having trouble finding a replacement part, maybe because i don't know the exact name. Underneath the cabinet is the on off switch. It is connected inside to a small grey box. This small gray box is inside the metal box where the volume knob is. The small gray box has (I think) 4 power wires connected to it and it switches the current open or closed based on the power switch position on the bottom of the cab.

I have replaced this part before but now I can't seem to find it online now. Anyone know the exact name of it because I can't seem to find it on Marcos or Pinball Life. Thanks.

It's called a emi line filter. Marco should have them

Put me in line for a new center ramp. The lower welds are particularly prone to busting, so I would beef up that area considerably. Mine is broken like many others.

The ramp needs a "U" style bracket to beef up the entrance walls.

So I ordered the EMI with help from Marcos I’m getting one that would work but now my problem is getting it to function with the on off switch. The old one, that you see burnt to a crisp, would fit snug onto the toggle switch when placed on top of it. The new part, pictured, doesn’t have an opening underneath for the switch to fit into to be able to turn it off and on, open/close circuit. Is there a better part available or am I going to have to add more wires to connect to the toggle switch?

034C0566-5F78-4460-A33F-3381FE7BB274 (resized).jpeg

F2A09CA5-5C7E-45D0-9B3C-B2AEBBB2E148 (resized).jpeg

If anyone has or knows where I can get parts for a scratch build I'd be grateful

I have a donor cabinet, pf, and boardset and a ruined lw3 popped pf for parts

But pretty much need everything else

Anyone have any spares? Even parts you replaced?

Thanks
Darren

You'll have to find a populated playfield somewhere with the R2-D2 mech/gearbox. It would be easier to sell your PF and extra boards and cabinet and just buy one that's already complete haha.

Nah, I'll collect the missing parts , probably take awhile

Does anyone have any spare plastics? I need a few, but not quite enough to buy a whole set.