East Aurora, NY
Quoted from Kawydud:I just patched one back in May before I sold it, stop on over and I can burn it for you.
PM sent thanks much!
(Topic ID: 72482)
Linked Games
Star Wars
Data East, 1992
Topic Gallery
Quoted from wolfemaaan:Flipper Question. Do you guys remove the main flipper coil shaft spring or leave it on? Most of the setups I’ve seen show it removed. It appears the other thin spring may be good enough. Not sure what the benefits are but I’m suspect having the spring causes the shaft to not close properly and eventually heat & wear down the coil causing flipper flopping.
What say you guys? Springs on or off?[quoted image]
You have a universal flipper kit installed...
OEM no compression spring... no EOS switch activator.
Look at pg.36 of the Data East Star Wars manual.
Official member since today 
Rough cabinet but looks like the playfield will be OK after cleaning (wasn’t cleaned for over 10 yrs)
69BF8448-1A3A-4980-8F07-C01DBBD14FE1 (resized).jpeg801D4F85-2C5F-414C-885E-BA5847226A6C (resized).jpeg0E5089CB-57A3-4BD8-AF87-DD99EB52C51F (resized).jpegA3AEE7A6-A09E-4ECB-BB18-658FAA40C614 (resized).jpegDD94EA6A-FAC9-402D-9856-D591376C17FC (resized).jpeg9E51CB88-F1CE-4210-A307-DB340FF93F9F (resized).jpeg10DC973E-6BEC-4E8F-9E13-995B58EB0165 (resized).jpegQuoted from Rensh:Official member since today
Rough cabinet but looks like the playfield will be OK after cleaning (wasn’t cleaned for over 10 yrs)
Cabinet condition never really bothered me, playfield is important. Yours looks similar to mine, and I've been happy with mine for six plus years. You will need a colordmd though! That plasma looks so ugly to me now. I recommend the led version for this fine game.
Quoted from Rensh:Had the ramp professional TIG welded. Almost invisible [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Nice!... You need to add external wall support or ells the welds will break again.
Quoted from Rensh:Had the ramp professional TIG welded. Almost invisible [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
TIG is the way to go, mo discoloration that way.
Quoted from MotorCityMatt:Ordered from Metal Mods, much better than the plan jane caps.
I have those too. It really does make them look better. Where did you get those clear pop caps?
Quoted from Pahuffman:I have those too. It really does make them look better. Where did you get those clear pop caps?
No idea, was that way when I bought the game.
So have my SW up and running and yesterday evening first few hours of playing on it. It runs on chad 107 code. There is more going on in the code and on the playfield as I upfront expected 
Set up a score of approx 450M, 4 balls, no extra balls
Need to tweak some light and some small stuff but rest is all OK 
Only the shot to the dead star. That is a tricky one as it can give you a stdm. Is this normal or is my pin not set up right? Think it’s like 10%? Also I do see sometimes airballs. Not a big issue but they are there. Any comments on this from you guys?
F0B15EEA-4587-48F5-A523-34F7A281DF45 (resized).jpegQuoted from vec-tor:Check for deteriorated backing foam that is behind the "Death Star" target.
Thanks for the advise but foam is already replaced. The target itself is also new. When replacing it I found that the top side of the target hit the top of the bracket it is mounted on and thus couldn’t move freely. So lowered the target by just a tiny bit and dremmeled away a tiny bit on the droptarget itself.
Quoted from Rensh:Only the shot to the dead star. That is a tricky one as it can give you a stdm. Is this normal or is my pin not set up right? Think it’s like 10%? Also I do see sometimes airballs. Not a big issue but they are there. Any comments on this from you guys?[quoted image]
Yes, that is a tricky shot but vital with Chad's new code. It's all I shoot for now, and if you do it right, you'll save the ball most of the time, if you do it wrong, yes, sdtm. That's the fun of pinball to me. Sounds like yours is just right. Have fun mastering your machine.
Quoted from Rensh:Thanks for the advise but foam is already replaced. The target itself is also new. When replacing it I found that the top side of the target hit the top of the bracket it is mounted on and thus couldn’t move freely. So lowered the target by just a tiny bit and dremmeled away a tiny bit on the droptarget itself.
Yes, yes, yes I had to do the same thing. I just lowered the target assembly till it cleared
the top edge.
Quoted from MotorCityMatt:No idea, was that way when I bought the game.
Marco has them
Is it normal for the ball launch button to have a slight delay before ejecting the ball after it is pushed?
Quoted from drummermike:Is it normal for the ball launch button to have a slight delay before ejecting the ball after it is pushed?
Yes. Mine does that too.
Brisbane
Edmonton, AB
Quoted from allsportdvd:Hi all
Does anyone have a picture of what it looks like behind the jabba’s Bounty plastic? Mine is missing a bracket of some kind I think
See post 2927.
I am now selling my DESW. Local pickup only. Easy access. $4000 firm. Thanks.
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Brighton
Quoted from drummermike:I am now selling my DESW. Local pickup only. Easy access. $4000 firm. Thanks.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That machine looks like its holding the ceiling up
Quoted from wolfemaaan:That machine looks like its holding the ceiling up
Yes. It should be higher to get the right angle. I sold it on Sunday.
Replaced it with TSPP.
can someone please confirm that if you unplug the ribbon cable from the dmd, you still get at least some type of display on the dmd when you power on. i am getting absolutely nothing on the dmd when i turn it on, and i want to rule out that it is a problem with the mpu or the cable.
Quoted from jgadzia:can someone please confirm that if you unplug the ribbon cable from the dmd, you still get at least some type of display on the dmd when you power on. i am getting absolutely nothing on the dmd when i turn it on, and i want to rule out that it is a problem with the mpu or the cable.
You get nothing without the ribbon connected, correct. You’ll see it power on and illuminated but nothing to display
Quoted from wolfemaaan:You get nothing without the ribbon connected, correct. You’ll see it power on and illuminated but nothing to display
when you say "illuminated" what do you mean. i get absolutely nothing on the screen
大阪市ä¸å¤®åŒº
Hi I am japanese pinball mania.
I bought SWDE.
but some problems occured.
LASERKICK
KNOCKER
RIGHTPOWERSCOOP
VUK23-800
LEFTPOWERSCOOP
BALLLAUNCH
are not worling
I checked FUSE ,and found F5 fuse broken.
so I replased fuse.
And turn on pin,soon F5 fuse burn out.
Next I checked TRANSISTOR TIP36C Q1～Q5 , One of them is brokend.
so I eliminate this one and turn on, but still F5 fuse burned.
What should I do?
Quoted from doro-mini:Hi I am japanese pinball mania.
I bought SWDE.
but some problems occured.
LASERKICK
KNOCKER
RIGHTPOWERSCOOP
VUK23-800
LEFTPOWERSCOOP
BALLLAUNCH
are not worling
I checked FUSE ,and found F5 fuse broken.
so I replased fuse.
And turn on pin,soon F5 fuse burn out.
Next I checked TRANSISTOR TIP36C Q1～Q5 , One of them is brokend.
so I eliminate this one and turn on, but still F5 fuse burned.
What should I do?
Something is shorted out. Try locating the connector associated with F5 and unplug it and see if it blows. If it doesn’t, you’ll need to trace the cables till you located which item is shorting
Quoted from wolfemaaan:Something is shorted out. Try locating the connector associated with F5 and unplug it and see if it blows. If it doesn’t, you’ll need to trace the cables till you located which item is shorting
Thanks.
J5 pin is burnt.
Is this a problem?
What is this part called?
?? 2019-09-03 23 37 35 (resized).jpgQuoted from doro-mini:Thanks.
J5 pin is burnt.
Is this a problem?
What is this part called?[quoted image]
With the connector disconnected, does it still short out? The burn marks you see are not necessarily from a short but from a long period of heat which is common. You’re gonna want to replace that connector regardless
That connector is for the general illumination. Typically burnt so should be replaced at some point.
I would start with disconnecting the connector at J8, replace fuse and see if it stays on.
If it does, then disconnect each of those coils, one at a time, and see when it stops blowing a fuse. Kind of a long way around but pretty easy to troubleshoot
Quoted from jgadzia:can someone please confirm that if you unplug the ribbon cable from the dmd, you still get at least some type of display on the dmd when you power on. i am getting absolutely nothing on the dmd when i turn it on, and i want to rule out that it is a problem with the mpu or the cable.
On mine the game will show what display software version it as and then goes out.
It is very brief.
Quoted from kba78:That connector is for the general illumination. Typically burnt so should be replaced at some point.
I would start with disconnecting the connector at J8, replace fuse and see if it stays on.
If it does, then disconnect each of those coils, one at a time, and see when it stops blowing a fuse. Kind of a long way around but pretty easy to troubleshoot
Thanks for advice.
Where can I buy the connector?
Quoted from doro-mini:Thanks for advice.
Where can I buy the connector?
That one appears to be an .156 IDC 9 pin which would be:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-10817-09
You will need a punch tool as well. Some people also prefer to use Molex instead, but then you need a Molex tool and heads. Either way, welcome to pinball repair aka your second job
ok having problems with my coils not working. My special playfield coils all work appropriately and the laser kick works, but my flashers and regular coils not working at all on coil test. When i do flasher test, my VUK and rt scoop are firing, but dont fire at all in coil test. i have checked all fuses and they are good. Could this be a relay problem?
Quoted from jgadzia:ok having problems with my coils not working. My special playfield coils all work appropriately and the laser kick works, but my flashers and regular coils not working at all on coil test. When i do flasher test, my VUK and rt scoop are firing, but dont fire at all in coil test. i have checked all fuses and they are good. Could this be a relay problem?
When you run the test, did you close the coin door?
Quoted from wolfemaaan:When you run the test, did you close the coin door?
no, i usually have the coin door open so i can go through the menu.do i need to close it?
Star wars does not have a door switch. So closing coin door won't change anything. Your L/R relay is not working right.check Q29 transistor on the CPU
Quick question: Is anyone aware of a list of which sounds are triggered by which events in SWDE? E.g. I see "multiball_is_lit" in thze PinSound archives, that's pretty obvious. But what about "spaceship_3" or "explosion_in_space"?
Quoted from kba78:Star wars does not have a door switch. So closing coin door won't change anything. Your L/R relay is not working right.check Q29 transistor on the CPU
I checked the transistor by puting my multimeter in diode mode and connecting one end to the ground on the machine and the other to the metal tab and i get no buzz, so i am assuming the transisitor is ok(correct?) I also took out the board and resoldered the K1 relay back to the board in case it was a cold solder joint. It still is doing the same thing, can i assume the Relay is bad? Is there a way to test it
Quoted from jgadzia:Is there a way to test it
Temporarily ground the non band side of the relay diode.
Or, ground temporarily pin 9J6 BLK-RED wire...
Or, ground temporarily pin 2CN12BLK-RED wire...
Or, ground temporarily the metal tab on transistor Q29
SOL. DRV. 10.
Quoted from kba78:+1 for what vec-tor said
ok when i short the transistor nothing happens, i should be hearing the relay click correct?
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