(Topic ID: 72482)

Data East Star Wars Club...Members & Fans Welcome.


By MustangPaul

6 years ago



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  • 3,681 posts
  • 322 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 hours ago by paynemic
  • Topic is favorited by 153 Pinsiders

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There are 3681 posts in this topic. You are on page 64 of 74.
#3151 1 year ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

I just patched one back in May before I sold it, stop on over and I can burn it for you.

PM sent thanks much!

#3152 1 year ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Flipper Question. Do you guys remove the main flipper coil shaft spring or leave it on? Most of the setups I’ve seen show it removed. It appears the other thin spring may be good enough. Not sure what the benefits are but I’m suspect having the spring causes the shaft to not close properly and eventually heat & wear down the coil causing flipper flopping.
What say you guys? Springs on or off?[quoted image]

You have a universal flipper kit installed...
OEM no compression spring... no EOS switch activator.
Look at pg.36 of the Data East Star Wars manual.

#3153 1 year ago

Official member since today

Rough cabinet but looks like the playfield will be OK after cleaning (wasn’t cleaned for over 10 yrs)

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#3154 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Official member since today
Rough cabinet but looks like the playfield will be OK after cleaning (wasn’t cleaned for over 10 yrs)

Cabinet condition never really bothered me, playfield is important. Yours looks similar to mine, and I've been happy with mine for six plus years. You will need a colordmd though! That plasma looks so ugly to me now. I recommend the led version for this fine game.

#3155 1 year ago

Work in progress

GI fully functional again. Has a stuck coil en replaced transistor which is now OK but also coil has to be replaced. To low resistance and blows now fuse. And replaced a lot of the fuse holders.

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#3156 1 year ago

Had the ramp professional TIG welded. Almost invisible

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#3157 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Had the ramp professional TIG welded. Almost invisible [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice!... You need to add external wall support or ells the welds will break again.

#3158 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Had the ramp professional TIG welded. Almost invisible [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

TIG is the way to go, mo discoloration that way.

#3159 1 year ago

Ordered from Metal Mods, much better than the plan jane caps.

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#3160 1 year ago
Quoted from MotorCityMatt:

Ordered from Metal Mods, much better than the plan jane caps.

I have those too. It really does make them look better. Where did you get those clear pop caps?

#3161 1 year ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

I have those too. It really does make them look better. Where did you get those clear pop caps?

No idea, was that way when I bought the game.

#3162 1 year ago

So have my SW up and running and yesterday evening first few hours of playing on it. It runs on chad 107 code. There is more going on in the code and on the playfield as I upfront expected

Set up a score of approx 450M, 4 balls, no extra balls

Need to tweak some light and some small stuff but rest is all OK

Only the shot to the dead star. That is a tricky one as it can give you a stdm. Is this normal or is my pin not set up right? Think it’s like 10%? Also I do see sometimes airballs. Not a big issue but they are there. Any comments on this from you guys?

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#3163 1 year ago

Sounds exactly right. My SWDE does the same.

#3164 1 year ago

Check for deteriorated backing foam that is behind the "Death Star" target.

#3165 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Check for deteriorated backing foam that is behind the "Death Star" target.

Thanks for the advise but foam is already replaced. The target itself is also new. When replacing it I found that the top side of the target hit the top of the bracket it is mounted on and thus couldn’t move freely. So lowered the target by just a tiny bit and dremmeled away a tiny bit on the droptarget itself.

#3166 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Only the shot to the dead star. That is a tricky one as it can give you a stdm. Is this normal or is my pin not set up right? Think it’s like 10%? Also I do see sometimes airballs. Not a big issue but they are there. Any comments on this from you guys?[quoted image]

Yes, that is a tricky shot but vital with Chad's new code. It's all I shoot for now, and if you do it right, you'll save the ball most of the time, if you do it wrong, yes, sdtm. That's the fun of pinball to me. Sounds like yours is just right. Have fun mastering your machine.

#3167 1 year ago

janus You got that exactly right!

#3168 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Thanks for the advise but foam is already replaced. The target itself is also new. When replacing it I found that the top side of the target hit the top of the bracket it is mounted on and thus couldn’t move freely. So lowered the target by just a tiny bit and dremmeled away a tiny bit on the droptarget itself.

Yes, yes, yes I had to do the same thing. I just lowered the target assembly till it cleared
the top edge.

#3170 1 year ago

Is it normal for the ball launch button to have a slight delay before ejecting the ball after it is pushed?

#3171 1 year ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Is it normal for the ball launch button to have a slight delay before ejecting the ball after it is pushed?

Yes. Mine does that too.

#3172 1 year ago

I made a change.

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#3173 1 year ago

Hi all
Does anyone have a picture of what it looks like behind the jabba’s Bounty plastic? Mine is missing a bracket of some kind I think

#3174 1 year ago

Hope these help, luckily mine is detached at the moment

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#3175 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

Hi all
Does anyone have a picture of what it looks like behind the jabba’s Bounty plastic? Mine is missing a bracket of some kind I think

See post 2927.

#3176 1 year ago

I am now selling my DESW. Local pickup only. Easy access. $4000 firm. Thanks.

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2 weeks later
#3177 1 year ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

Hope these help, luckily mine is detached at the moment[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That part always seemed massively over designed for what is just a lamp behind an insert

#3178 1 year ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I am now selling my DESW. Local pickup only. Easy access. $4000 firm. Thanks.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That machine looks like its holding the ceiling up

#3179 1 year ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

That machine looks like its holding the ceiling up

Yes. It should be higher to get the right angle. I sold it on Sunday.
Replaced it with TSPP.

#3180 1 year ago

can someone please confirm that if you unplug the ribbon cable from the dmd, you still get at least some type of display on the dmd when you power on. i am getting absolutely nothing on the dmd when i turn it on, and i want to rule out that it is a problem with the mpu or the cable.

#3181 1 year ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

can someone please confirm that if you unplug the ribbon cable from the dmd, you still get at least some type of display on the dmd when you power on. i am getting absolutely nothing on the dmd when i turn it on, and i want to rule out that it is a problem with the mpu or the cable.

You get nothing without the ribbon connected, correct. You’ll see it power on and illuminated but nothing to display

#3182 1 year ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

You get nothing without the ribbon connected, correct. You’ll see it power on and illuminated but nothing to display

when you say "illuminated" what do you mean. i get absolutely nothing on the screen

#3183 1 year ago

Hi I am japanese pinball mania.
I bought SWDE.
but some problems occured.

LASERKICK
KNOCKER
RIGHTPOWERSCOOP
VUK23-800
LEFTPOWERSCOOP
BALLLAUNCH

are not worling

I checked FUSE ,and found F5 fuse broken.
so I replased fuse.

And turn on pin,soon F5 fuse burn out.

Next I checked TRANSISTOR TIP36C Q1~Q5 , One of them is brokend.
so I eliminate this one and turn on, but still F5 fuse burned.

What should I do?

#3184 1 year ago
Quoted from doro-mini:

Hi I am japanese pinball mania.
I bought SWDE.
but some problems occured.
LASERKICK
KNOCKER
RIGHTPOWERSCOOP
VUK23-800
LEFTPOWERSCOOP
BALLLAUNCH
are not worling
I checked FUSE ,and found F5 fuse broken.
so I replased fuse.
And turn on pin,soon F5 fuse burn out.
Next I checked TRANSISTOR TIP36C Q1~Q5 , One of them is brokend.
so I eliminate this one and turn on, but still F5 fuse burned.
What should I do?

Something is shorted out. Try locating the connector associated with F5 and unplug it and see if it blows. If it doesn’t, you’ll need to trace the cables till you located which item is shorting

#3185 1 year ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Something is shorted out. Try locating the connector associated with F5 and unplug it and see if it blows. If it doesn’t, you’ll need to trace the cables till you located which item is shorting

Thanks.
J5 pin is burnt.
Is this a problem?
What is this part called?

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#3186 1 year ago
Quoted from doro-mini:

Thanks.
J5 pin is burnt.
Is this a problem?
What is this part called?[quoted image]

With the connector disconnected, does it still short out? The burn marks you see are not necessarily from a short but from a long period of heat which is common. You’re gonna want to replace that connector regardless

#3187 1 year ago

That connector is for the general illumination. Typically burnt so should be replaced at some point.
I would start with disconnecting the connector at J8, replace fuse and see if it stays on.
If it does, then disconnect each of those coils, one at a time, and see when it stops blowing a fuse. Kind of a long way around but pretty easy to troubleshoot

#3188 1 year ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

can someone please confirm that if you unplug the ribbon cable from the dmd, you still get at least some type of display on the dmd when you power on. i am getting absolutely nothing on the dmd when i turn it on, and i want to rule out that it is a problem with the mpu or the cable.

On mine the game will show what display software version it as and then goes out.
It is very brief.

#3189 1 year ago
Quoted from kba78:

That connector is for the general illumination. Typically burnt so should be replaced at some point.
I would start with disconnecting the connector at J8, replace fuse and see if it stays on.
If it does, then disconnect each of those coils, one at a time, and see when it stops blowing a fuse. Kind of a long way around but pretty easy to troubleshoot

Thanks for advice.

Where can I buy the connector?

#3190 1 year ago

Any pinball supplier

#3191 1 year ago
Quoted from doro-mini:

Thanks for advice.
Where can I buy the connector?

That one appears to be an .156 IDC 9 pin which would be:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-10817-09

You will need a punch tool as well. Some people also prefer to use Molex instead, but then you need a Molex tool and heads. Either way, welcome to pinball repair aka your second job

#3192 1 year ago

ok having problems with my coils not working. My special playfield coils all work appropriately and the laser kick works, but my flashers and regular coils not working at all on coil test. When i do flasher test, my VUK and rt scoop are firing, but dont fire at all in coil test. i have checked all fuses and they are good. Could this be a relay problem?

#3193 1 year ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

ok having problems with my coils not working. My special playfield coils all work appropriately and the laser kick works, but my flashers and regular coils not working at all on coil test. When i do flasher test, my VUK and rt scoop are firing, but dont fire at all in coil test. i have checked all fuses and they are good. Could this be a relay problem?

When you run the test, did you close the coin door?

#3194 1 year ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

When you run the test, did you close the coin door?

no, i usually have the coin door open so i can go through the menu.do i need to close it?

#3195 1 year ago

Star wars does not have a door switch. So closing coin door won't change anything. Your L/R relay is not working right.check Q29 transistor on the CPU

#3196 1 year ago

Quick question: Is anyone aware of a list of which sounds are triggered by which events in SWDE? E.g. I see "multiball_is_lit" in thze PinSound archives, that's pretty obvious. But what about "spaceship_3" or "explosion_in_space"?

#3197 1 year ago
Quoted from kba78:

Star wars does not have a door switch. So closing coin door won't change anything. Your L/R relay is not working right.check Q29 transistor on the CPU

I checked the transistor by puting my multimeter in diode mode and connecting one end to the ground on the machine and the other to the metal tab and i get no buzz, so i am assuming the transisitor is ok(correct?) I also took out the board and resoldered the K1 relay back to the board in case it was a cold solder joint. It still is doing the same thing, can i assume the Relay is bad? Is there a way to test it

#3198 1 year ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

Is there a way to test it

Temporarily ground the non band side of the relay diode.
Or, ground temporarily pin 9J6 BLK-RED wire...
Or, ground temporarily pin 2CN12BLK-RED wire...
Or, ground temporarily the metal tab on transistor Q29
SOL. DRV. 10.

#3199 1 year ago

+1 for what vec-tor said

#3200 1 year ago
Quoted from kba78:

+1 for what vec-tor said

ok when i short the transistor nothing happens, i should be hearing the relay click correct?

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