(Topic ID: 72482)

Data East Star Wars Club...Members & Fans Welcome.


By MustangPaul

5 years ago



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There are 3224 posts in this topic. You are on page 62 of 65.
#3051 4 months ago
Quoted from pacmanretro:

Reflowed all pins when I did capacitor replacements, but I did NOT check continuity from connector to speaker.
I will certainly check that tomorrow.

the connectors get old and the wire loses connection very easily. I have gotten burned by this on multiple problems. Hopefully that is your problem as that is going to be easies to fix. i am assuming you looked closely at the board to make sure no resistors are fried?

#3052 4 months ago
Quoted from pacmanretro:

Reflowed all pins when I did capacitor replacements, but I did NOT check continuity from connector to speaker.
I will certainly check that tomorrow.

also read this:

https://kcpins.com/archives/462

your amplifier is probably bad if you cant find anything else look there...

#3053 4 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

the connectors get old and the wire loses connection very easily. I have gotten burned by this on multiple problems. Hopefully that is your problem as that is going to be easies to fix. i am assuming you looked closely at the board to make sure no resistors are fried?

With the exception of the puffy cap, board did look very clean, but I will certainly double check.

Quoted from jgadzia:

also read this:
https://kcpins.com/archives/462
your amplifier is probably bad if you cant find anything else look there...

Thanks for the link. that's what I was worried about.

Does anybody know which section is for which speaker on board?

I started looking at schematics last night and I only found it calling them out as channel 1, 2, and 3. Not left, right, etc....

#3054 4 months ago

I checked each pin of audio cables. All seemed to be ok.

I'm not sure what else I can check, other than assuming bad audio amp....

#3055 4 months ago

Hello all,

I just bought my first pinball, and am new to this board too.
I'm from france (toulouse) and happy very new owner of a DE. Star Wars.
The flipper is in good condition, clean, shape is good (some aging on body painting, but still fairly nice) and everything in game is working (including death star, R2D2, plastic elements in game are not missings, bumpers and rubbers have been changed....
ROM are 1.07 version and nothing has been customized (no led, no added protections, no added gadgets..).

I have electronic competencies background, but am new to pinballs.

I hope I'll have time enjoying playing on it before needing to fix things

I will soon try to buy or build a protection for the two 'hole ejectors' (not sure of the translation) and add some leds to it.
On this second point , my first feeling (maybe I'am wrong) is that specific led kits are overpriced, mainly compared to led price from china (where they are build). I may buy some from Aliexpress and see if my choice was the good one. If any of you had the same try and want to share some feedback, I would appreciate: led quality from china, things to care about (or not) like special no ghosting or anti flickering, list of lamps in the DE SW and LED replacement preconisations (model, power, eventually colors that match original design).

Thanks in advance, I hope, one day, it's me that will be able to share some experience and advices too

#3056 4 months ago
Quoted from bellenic:

things to care about (or not) like special no ghosting or anti flickering

You don't have to worry about flickering or ghosting in this game. Cheap LEDs will do just fine. I would not recommend getting a kit. Find out which bulbs you need and piece it together yourself.

I will soon try to buy or build a protection for the two 'hole ejectors'

http://www.passionforpinball.com/SW-Cliffy/swthin.htm

You can order protectors from Cliffy by sending him an email. I believe he will ship internationally.

Welcome to the club!

#3057 4 months ago
Quoted from pacmanretro:

With the exception of the puffy cap, board did look very clean, but I will certainly double check.

Thanks for the link. that's what I was worried about.
Does anybody know which section is for which speaker on board?
I started looking at schematics last night and I only found it calling them out as channel 1, 2, and 3. Not left, right, etc....

just follow the wires back from the speaker, you should be able to figure it out from there, my guess is the amp is bad, just replace that. they are cheap

#3058 4 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

just follow the wires back from the speaker, you should be able to figure it out from there, my guess is the amp is bad, just replace that. they are cheap

Thanks, I followed wires and followed traces on pcb to appropriate amp.

Didn't go into busting out scope for detailed and excessive work, but just did a handful of measurements comparing working channel to bad....didn't find anything specific.

So, I put back in and (knowing what I was safely touching) tried some finger on components checking. Sure enough, left speaker hums, cabinet speaker hums, right channel amp....nothing.

Weird thing to me is that when doing audio test:

Left speaker test sounds fine.

Both speaker test is louder than left test, but all sound is on left side.

Right speaker test is dead in right speaker and some quieter/muffled sound on left speaker.

I don't understand what is causing bleed over from right into the left!

I ordered an amp chip, and a DAC for the heck of it...

#3059 4 months ago
Quoted from pacmanretro:

Thanks, I followed wires and followed traces on pcb to appropriate amp.
Didn't go into busting out scope for detailed and excessive work, but just did a handful of measurements comparing working channel to bad....didn't find anything specific.
So, I put back in and (knowing what I was safely touching) tried some finger on components checking. Sure enough, left speaker hums, cabinet speaker hums, right channel amp....nothing.
Weird thing to me is that when doing audio test:
Left speaker test sounds fine.
Both speaker test is louder than left test, but all sound is on left side.
Right speaker test is dead in right speaker and some quieter/muffled sound on left speaker.
I don't understand what is causing bleed over from right into the left!
I ordered an amp chip, and a DAC for the heck of it...

my guess is the bad amp has a short which is causing the feedback. did you figure out which speaker is channel 1, 2, and 3

#3060 4 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

my guess is the bad amp has a short which is causing the feedback. did you figure out which speaker is channel 1, 2, and 3

Don't quote me for sure, but I believe:

Channel 1 is right speaker (black wires)
Bottom amp chip (as board is mounted)

Channel 2 is Left speaker (red wires)
Middle amp chip (as board is mounted)

Channel 3 is Cabinet speaker (yellow wires)
Top amp chip (as board is mounted)

#3061 4 months ago

Can't wait to get chip in and try it. Ordered a couple just in case there is some weird damage to both left and right, but I think you're right; There is probably some weird feedback leaking thru bad right amp, most likely.

#3062 4 months ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

You don't have to worry about flickering or ghosting in this game. ../..
You can order protectors from Cliffy by sending him an email. I believe he will ship internationally.
Welcome to the club!

Thanks a lot for your answer.

#3063 4 months ago
Quoted from bellenic:

Thanks a lot for your answer.

When I swapped for led on two desw the lamp matrix went crazy. In both cases it was a diode installed backward on the Jabba scoop. Keep an eye out for wacky lamp behavior.

#3064 4 months ago
Quoted from bellenic:

Hello all,
I just bought my first pinball, and am new to this board too.
I'm from france (toulouse) and happy very new owner of a DE. Star Wars.
The flipper is in good condition, clean, shape is good (some aging on body painting, but still fairly nice) and everything in game is working (including death star, R2D2, plastic elements in game are not missings, bumpers and rubbers have been changed....
ROM are 1.07 version and nothing has been customized (no led, no added protections, no added gadgets..).
I have electronic competencies background, but am new to pinballs.
I hope I'll have time enjoying playing on it before needing to fix things
I will soon try to buy or build a protection for the two 'hole ejectors' (not sure of the translation) and add some leds to it.
On this second point , my first feeling (maybe I'am wrong) is that specific led kits are overpriced, mainly compared to led price from china (where they are build). I may buy some from Aliexpress and see if my choice was the good one. If any of you had the same try and want to share some feedback, I would appreciate: led quality from china, things to care about (or not) like special no ghosting or anti flickering, list of lamps in the DE SW and LED replacement preconisations (model, power, eventually colors that match original design).
Thanks in advance, I hope, one day, it's me that will be able to share some experience and advices too

Good first pin. You should clean the underside of all the inserts then replace bulbs with leds. You'll be amazed how good they look.

#3065 4 months ago

Thanks for your advises.

I had a look on available LEDs. What I have seen so far:
-Backglass GI: simple LEDs (no need for frosted or diamond); single or double smd; all cold white (eventually commented with some colors)
-playground GI: single or double smd, frosted, cold or warm white.
-playground commanded lights: simple single smd, either all white or color matched.

What do you think of it? (Warm or cold white; light power...) on this specific pinball? A want a nice shiny pinball, but don't want to completely change it's original look with too much color everywhere.

#3066 4 months ago

I bought 50 of each 47's and 555 white frosted from cointaker. Was about $75 and them turned out great!

#3067 4 months ago

So I joined the club last night. Picked this up after chasing it for 6 months, the seller kept changing his mind on selling. Even though the whole time it was sitting on his garage floor... So started looking at everything deciding how far I want to go for fixing and replacing parts. My heart says all the way to a new playfield, and my wallet says whoa whoa. Either way the cabinet needs repair and most likely new decals so might as well strip it all down on a rotisserie

First question I have is why would someone have 2 red bouncing pop bumpers (proper) then 2 standard (not bouncing) yellow pop bumpers under the ramp? Sorry for the glass on pic, but I started diving in and forgot to take a picture with glass off

20190603_224230 (resized).jpg20190603_224236 (resized).jpg20190604_200107 (resized).jpg
#3068 4 months ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

So I joined the club last night. Picked this up after chasing it for 6 months, the seller kept changing his mind on selling. Even though the whole time it was sitting on his garage floor... So started looking at everything deciding how far I want to go for fixing and replacing parts. My heart says all the way to a new playfield, and my wallet says whoa whoa. Either way the cabinet needs repair and most likely new decals so might as well strip it all down on a rotisserie
First question I have is why would someone have 2 red bouncing pop bumpers (proper) then 2 standard (not bouncing) yellow pop bumpers under the ramp? Sorry for the glass on pic, but I started diving in and forgot to take a picture with glass off[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

First, welcome to the club, she’ll clean up fine

Second, the reason why you see stuff that doesn’t make sense like mismatched pop bumpers? Crackheads that’s why

Don’t worry, you’ll soon discover all the other crackhead things they did but don’t despair, you got Pinside and will have it shiny and 100% in no time

Take a lot of pictures and take it down to the playfield and clean it. It will allow you to LED it properly, put new plastics on it, etc.

Now replacing the playfield? Why would you think this is needed? I rarely see extensive damage on this machine except the scoops. Cliffys will fix that

So good luck on your project

#3069 4 months ago

i am putting some clear buttons for the flippers, i was thinking of not only puttin some flaming leds that are going all the time, but i thought it might be cool to throw some flashers in there whenever you hit the button. Anyone have an idea of how to wire that?

#3070 4 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

i am putting some clear buttons for the flippers, i was thinking of not only puttin some flaming leds that are going all the time, but i thought it might be cool to throw some flashers in there whenever you hit the button. Anyone have an idea of how to wire that?

There's not a lot of room for lights behind the flipper button due to the switch. I had a hard enough time getting regular lights mounted back there, I have no idea how you'd squeeze a flasher in there.

#3071 4 months ago

Anyone have dimensions for machine with legs off I'm looking to have one shipped from USA to Canada but need dimensions for shipping purchases

#3072 4 months ago

So I have got all the plastics off and doing some assessment, luckily in much better shape than i would of first guessed. A few questions I have, over the letters of Star Wars are those mylar protectors? I see the ones by the slings are obvious, but unsure about the letters. Secondly anyone have a fix-it idea for the one whamo just below the S? It's very smooth and looks like just the top layer of wood was exposed, unsure to fix it, mylar over, wax it good or? As always any help is appreciated as this is my first pulled and stripped playfield project (This picture was from just getting started). I'm going slow and having fun with it

20190604_200315_resized (resized).jpg
#3073 4 months ago
Quoted from Vicarious1:

Anyone have dimensions for machine with legs off I'm looking to have one shipped from USA to Canada but need dimensions for shipping purchases

They will sit on a standard shipping pallet of 42" x 48", I'm not sure what they come in NIB. I like to find 48" x 48" pallet which gives a little more room around the sides to protect when shipping. Height call it 5'

#3074 4 months ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

over the letters of Star Wars are those mylar protectors?

Nope. Those are the inserts lifting out of the playfield. There's honestly not much you can do about it without restoring the playfield and clearcoating, so unless you want to put a lot of time and money into this game just wax it and put down some mylar (wax for easy removal later) to keep it from getting worse. I would also check out Vid's playfield guide. There may be other suggestions in there.

#3075 4 months ago

Of course if you do want to spend the money, CPR appears to be working on new Playfields which are generally below $1K. But if you need one now, there’s eBay

ebay.com link » Data East Star Wars Pinball Playfield Nos

#3076 4 months ago

Yeesh. That's almost what I paid for my entire game.

#3077 4 months ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

Yeesh. That's almost what I paid for my entire game.

Sounds like that insert glue & Mylar is looking pretty good now huh?

#3078 4 months ago

Yeah I saw that listing, and I did pay less than that for the entire machine. Lifting inserts is a theme through the entire machine, looks like repair, protect, wax and enjoy is the way for me. Thanks for the Input

#3079 4 months ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

Thanks for the Input

You're welcome. That's what Internet friends are for! Also, I would go ahead and purchase the 1.07 code if you haven't already done so.

#3080 4 months ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

You're welcome. That's what Internet friends are for! Also, I would go ahead and purchase the 1.07 code if you haven't already done so.

Already arrived this morning, first thing I ordered

#3081 4 months ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

You're welcome. That's what Internet friends are for! Also, I would go ahead and purchase the 1.07 code if you haven't already done so.

Don‘t forget to install NVRAM and ditch the batteries!

#3082 4 months ago
Quoted from jesperpark:

Already arrived this morning, first thing I ordered

Love the new code, just wish it was easier to get an extra ball. 18 ramp shoots now to get one.

#3083 4 months ago
Quoted from oradke:

Don‘t forget to install NVRAM and ditch the batteries!

Good call, funny story I asked the guy when he changed the batteries last, he said "what batteries?" I was thinking oh no, but it had the factory original Panasonic ones still in there and no leaks!! Man batteries nowadays are just not like the early 90s ones I guess

#3084 4 months ago
Quoted from MotorCityMatt:

Love the new code, just wish it was easier to get an extra ball. 18 ramp shoots now to get one.

Note of interest: Their are two variations of the ramp award calls...
1) ramp xx times to lite extra ball lane...
2) ramp xx times to award extra ball...
The later was not used with the OEM software.

#3085 4 months ago
Quoted from MotorCityMatt:

Love the new code, just wish it was easier to get an extra ball. 18 ramp shoots now to get one.

Practice buddy

#3086 4 months ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

18 ramp shoots now to get one

I've had my DESW for over 20 years now. I can almost make continuous ramp shots with my eyes closed by merely timing the sound of the ball hitting the main ramp, coming down the the rails, and dropping onto the playfield. My record so far is 47 in a row. Back before Chad's code ChadH, you could really blow up the score that way. Now with the new code, there isn't as much scoring with continuous ramps, but more finesse is needed. My adult children, who knew it the old way when they were kids, don't like the new code for that very reason. I told them I kept the old ROM and they can swap it out when the time comes to pass it on.

#3087 4 months ago
Quoted from pudealee:

I've had my DESW for over 20 years now. I can almost make continuous ramp shots with my eyes closed by merely timing the sound of the ball hitting the main ramp, coming down the the rails, and dropping onto the playfield. My record so far is 47 in a row. Back before Chad's code ChadH, you could really blow up the score that way. Now with the new code, there isn't as much scoring with continuous ramps, but more finesse is needed.

Exactly, now I never shoot for the ramp except for the Jackpot in multiball. With the old code I had the ramp shot down, now not so much. Just wish the extra ball was like 10 shoots, 3 on the old code was way to easy.

#3088 4 months ago

Hi just joining the club after owning mine for a couple of months. Great info in this thread. Added el wire as shown in pics. But need artwork or plastic around fire button handle.

254B6F2C-70CD-4C8A-B4C2-014A32C9A5DB (resized).jpeg60E55252-6C61-4B63-9200-17884DECC572 (resized).jpegC3DC8788-B8A7-46B2-88AE-8E23B1DD55F5 (resized).jpeg
#3089 4 months ago
Quoted from DCRand:

But need artwork or plastic around fire button handle.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Here you go

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/820-6097-00

Or part of a full set

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/820-6090-00

#3090 4 months ago

Thanks, being apparently blind, had looked at Marco site and not found it.

#3091 4 months ago

Quick question for you guys, I dont know if rom versions affect it at all (running 1.04); but I'm curious what you guys set your "spot moon" setting at???

It is a 1-5 scale that they call something like:

Extra Easy
Easy
Factory
Hard
Extra Hard

My machine was set on "hard" I noticed, so I just set it to "factory". But I feel like it practically gives death star away now....great for the girlfriend/novice people for more fun, but I got feeling it was too easy like only a day later....

So, what are you guys setting it at at home???

#3092 4 months ago
Quoted from pacmanretro:

Quick question for you guys, I dont know if rom versions affect it at all (running 1.04); but I'm curious what you guys set your "spot moon" setting at???
It is a 1-5 scale that they call something like:
Extra Easy
Easy
Factory
Hard
Extra Hard
My machine was set on "hard" I noticed, so I just set it to "factory". But I feel like it practically gives death star away now....great for the girlfriend/novice people for more fun, but I got feeling it was too easy like only a day later....
So, what are you guys setting it at at home???

Their is a flaw in the software that I found many years ago....
Adj. 46 factory and hard are switched. You could just set it to exhard and be done.

#3093 3 months ago

Hello all,

In Order to replace lamps I checked how many I would need and which type.

Here are the results (could not find this information anywhere):
Front:
#555: 37
#906 (flashers): 9

Field
#555: 30
#44: 45
#89: (flashers): 12

Exact numbers not garanteed
At least Front and GI are ac, so I would recommend Al ac/DC Leds.

Enjoy!

#3094 3 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Their is a flaw in the software that I found many years ago....
Adj. 46 factory and hard are switched. You could just set it to exhard and be done.

Guess I'm not seeing what you are talking about...."factory" (or 3) is easier than "hard" (or 4) in game play; just as it states, as far as I can see.

What is "switched"?

#3095 3 months ago
Quoted from pacmanretro:

Guess I'm not seeing what you are talking about...."factory" (or 3) is easier than "hard" (or 4) in game play; just as it states, as far as I can see.
What is "switched"?

The game has a subtle difference in the way it knows when to shut off the spot the moons...
Tri-Ball happens before Jackpot is lit... So... If you make it to Tri-ball first... the moons feature stop
spotting moons...Which is a "harder" setting than having to spot and get the jackpot lit during
Tri-Ball. I hope that makes sense. The games funky software is all Williams Electronics fault!!!
Fun oops. OEM software.
Note: put game on five balls and spot the left and right drains...
on ball four and ball five...
keep activating the left or right drain switch...
Watch the dmd display...
Some of the scoring will be really funky...
Because the software over shoots the points table and
interprets machine code as points.
Yeah! Now you know.

#3096 3 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The game has a subtle difference in the way it knows when to shut off the spot the moons...
Tri-Ball happens before Jackpot is lit... So... If you make it to Tri-ball first... the moons feature stop
spotting moons...Which is a "harder" setting than having to spot and get the jackpot lit during
Tri-Ball. I hope that makes sense. The games funky software is all Williams Electronics fault!!!
Fun oops. OEM software.
Note: put game on five balls and spot the left and right drains...
on ball four and ball five...
keep activating the left or right drain switch...
Watch the dmd display...
Some of the scoring will be really funky...
Because the software over shoots the points table and
interprets machine code as points.
Yeah! Now you know.

Intersting. I'll have to check that out. Thanks. I'm not 100 percent clear on your description, but that isn't anything other than my ignorance on it. When I'm in front of machine, I will reread and make more sense.

I kinda wondered how much adj 46 and 47 affect each other on a lot of little things during that mode.

#3097 3 months ago

Followup, are you talking about the sequence where you have get tri-ball, then hit DS target before "jackpot" is lit on ramp? I did notice that on "hard", but havent sat down to figure out differences from that between settings....if you know what I mean.

Thanks!

#3098 3 months ago
Quoted from pacmanretro:

Can't wait to get chip in and try it. Ordered a couple just in case there is some weird damage to both left and right, but I think you're right; There is probably some weird feedback leaking thru bad right amp, most likely.

so was it a bad amp chip. we never heard back from you on this?

#3099 3 months ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

so was it a bad amp chip. we never heard back from you on this?

Sorry....I only just figured it out the other day and haven't really gotten to take time to elaborate yet....

Quickly summed up:

After reflowing connectors, doing cap kit, replacing DAC chip, replacing amp chips, etc.....

Problem was a defective wire in my new Pinball Pro speaker kit.

I couldn't figure it out right away (well.....HOURS and like 40 bucks in parts), because when I hooked original speakers back up, I had same problem. So I SWORE it was in audio/amp board.

Well, what I DIDN'T think of.....I used the new wiring that came with Pinball Pro speaker kit when I temp hooked up original speakers to retest.

Turned out wire going from their volume pot to the speaker actually had a break in the conductor somewhere in middle of wire...not either end (I cut both ends and checked continuity of wire)!!!

So I took all their wiring off, redid with nicer joints/soldering etc and added shrink tube over each terminal lug like it should have. Also added a few cable ties for cable management as when I reassembled, the excess wire (I cut my new wiring to same length as original ones on speaker kit) kept wanting to drop down thru backbox holes and hang in view from playfield.

Only thing left to do is replace their connector with a full width one, because I don't like leaving 2 male pins ( even if not used) exposed and just hanging off a cable behind my HV DMD boards...

Not sure if they fully test their kits before shipping, and I will say they are very nice when I have talked to them previously (have not discussed this problem with them yet), but I have a punch card of several more small issues with this kit for the cost that I will politely bring up in another post soon (including little things like why a 200 dollar kit can't at least come with a 25 cent printout of instructions vs having to go online to view generic ones)...

This "short" post is just one since you asked.

Thank you guys for the help in trying to figure out the problem!

Couple quick pics....should have taken more.

No shrink tube.

Exposed extra pins risking shorts to other boards VS using wider connector.

Redone wiring (writing on pot was for my reference) with zip ties instead of shrink tube as strain relief, but also shrink tube used on lugs.

Small cable management by my choice.
Also, showing tape on connector to cover exposed pins for now until I can order correct width connector and replacement pins.

Again, I have not reached out to them yet and am not talking trash....just showing my work.

KIMG3959 (resized).jpgKIMG3960 (resized).jpgKIMG3966 (resized).jpgKIMG4026 (resized).jpg
#3100 3 months ago

crazy you spent all that money to have more problems. I have a couple of those kits in my machines and never had an issue. However, I started to learn very quickly that the kits only really sound better because of the better woofer speaker. So my remaining machines (including my Star Wars) I have just added a crossover and a better woofer speaker. Total cost=30-40 bucks and they sound just as good as the pins with the pinball pro speaker system. I highly recommend it for anyone wanting to upgrade their speakers.

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