Yes.

Happy Star Wars day!!!

Data East Star Wars STILL the best Star Wars Pin ever made!

Best thing to do is get a flex bulb and point it directly at R2.

Hey guys, is there an adjustment to turn on the replay knocker in this game or is it automatic? I know other games IE GNR actually have an on/off adjustment setting, but I can’t seem to locate anything in the menus for this game

Adj. 4 Game awards = Credit.

Thanks! Weird way to name it, in GNR it just says Replay Knocker

GnR has smarter programing than SW.
SW's program is hacked together because of big Willy's lawsuit against Data East at the time.

What now? What's the history behind this?

Just rebuilt one and testing it. When does the Death Star spin ? All the time ? Most of the time ?

It spins with R2D2, most of the time. If yours is sticking you probably need to reflow the solder on the relay below the PF or replace it. If it’s not spinning at all probably a fuse

OK - so only when R2 moves does the DS move ?

This one seemed to be rotating almost all the time. Certainly during multiball. I had a SW before just cant remember . I only had a quick test game/throwing balls round the table ...will check it again tomorrow.

It should spin all the time during a game. Much like R2s head spinning left and right. Not linked to when R2 jumps up and down.

Ah ok thanks. I just had another quick look and yes it's spinning constantly in the game.

Hey - do you guys know what the power is for the replay knocker coil? Want to be sure its spitting out the correct voltage before connecting

Got this rom set, do I need to replace all of these? On the DMD board it already has the 1.05 Rom. I am guessing the 104 and 107 Roms are 2 different CPU roms. Also, do I need to replace the other sound roms? Thanks!

20190507_194530 (resized).jpg

Sounds like all you really need is the 1.07 CPU ROM.

Question regarding the PPB Board. It appears this PPB board is not the original board (the serial number don’t match up). It seems to work except the J2 connector has a number layout that does not match the schematics at all. Can you guys take a picture of the J2 connector and so I can see if the numbers match the schematics. This board show numbers 1-8 with the key in a slot between 6-7. The schematics say 1-9 with the key being 3. The wiring on both are complete opposites. Sounds like somebody did some ghetto shit with the machine but wanted to confirm what you guys have

Thanks

07C0A60F-6781-4419-AA66-1B79A7FAE90F (resized).jpeg

A39AB99A-2A3E-4BC9-86CC-145FE9AFF1CF (resized).jpeg

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Those are solenoid drive numbers...
Pin 1 far left is sol. drive 8
pin 2 ..... drive 7
pin 3... key ( )
pin 4 ..... drive 6
Etc, etc, etc.

Is that what yours looks like? Is this number layout normal even though it doesn’t match the schematics? Seems like some grabbed this PPB board from another non Star Wars Data East Machine

Did you check pg.47?
The printed sol.drive ID numbers on the output of J2 are not the pin out numbers.
Check pg. 48 far right CN11 has the drive inputs from the CPU.

The CPU connectors are fine. The colors match. This J2 PPB connector doesnt really match up

Can you post a pic of your PPB J2?

Does this pinout help?

starwars pinout (resized).png

Huh, so is your PPB board factory with matching serial numbers? If so then I guess this is normal

Also Vector, can you confirm the Mollex connector wire colors are correct? You have the same board as the one I’m working on, but the color scheme per the schematics is backwards meaning pin 8 is actually pin 1 per the schematics

Yes! Except the CPU board was exchanged when the game was new.
The game would fry one of the pop bumper coils in a de-energized position.
I have had to do connector replacements to the GI circuitry over the years.
I checked the connector to J2... the wires colors are as listed on page 47.
As board is mounted up-side-down...
Pin #1 is on the left with a vio-gry wire that goes to the knocker and is sol.drive 8 Q39.
Etc.

Can you post a pic of your page 47? I’m looking and can’t find the J2 there

Note: again the numbers printed on the ppb output are the sol.drive # not the pin #.

Pg. 47, PPB board is the one that is located on the top right just above the power supply board.
"J2 " is shown as the connector located at the top left of the diagram.

Yikes....

Facts

anyone know where i can pick up this plastic, mines broken..

http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/playfield-parts/plastics/4141/plastic-for-star-wars-de-1?sAction=notify

The last month I have been looking all over Europe for that one. No luck so far

CPR has the whole set for $150. I needed just a few pieces (like yours) but just bought the whole thing anyway.

anyone else need some other plastics, i would be willing to sell off the other pieces if anyone needs some of the others...

To be honest your gonna want to install the full set imo. Most sets are not going to color match yours and the set always looks nice. It’s some work but the result is worth it.

Then you could always sell your originals or store them for a rainy day

That’s my 2cents worth half a penny

Can someone please provide a pic of that wire gate that rests behind R2?

Thanks...

Did you guys see CPR is going to be doing a Data East Star Wars playfield & real back glass?

https://classicplayfields.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/PO_Data-East-Star-Wars.png

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/starwars/

Any one else use their right leg to shoot down the storm troppers? Just tried it and worked well. Tired of losing the dam ball taking my hand off the flipper....

I know I've asked before but thought I would give it another shot. Would someone be able to scan the thin plastic above the back of the playfield. The one that mounts directly to the cabinet. Thanks for any help you can give

STAR WARS Pinball Machine Game Incomplete Plastic Set for sale #269 - DATA EAST (1) (resized).jpeg

I've trained myself to ignore it, I've lost way too many balls because of that dammed thing. So fun. Every now and then I try and it gets me again...genius

Thank you!!!

I do it all the time. My daughter came up with that idea. Easy way to score some points!

lucky you, i have my machine torn apart here are links. the piece was too big to put on at one time.so you will have to download them into paint and join them to create one large image. How are you turning these images into usable plastics?

https://my.pcloud.com/publink/show?code=XZOPzA7ZXccrj1EXrU75QUuMY2Vs5BOSqj8V

https://my.pcloud.com/publink/show?code=XZ8CzA7Zz7HAHno3Lru3EsJKnDbARB0l1YVk

Looking for any help/advice on an audio issue...

I recently noticed that, using sound test, my left speaker sounds fine. Then when I change it to right speaker test, I get nothing out of right but also get a very muffled sound out of left.

Noticed at least one cap bulging on audio (plus had one on power supply)...so I recapped both the audio and PS.

Unfortunately, it made not difference.

Anybody have suggestions for part or parts that may be bad and best place to order from for them?

As an added note, it seemed weird to me that the right speaker test made some noise on left channel. I thought that may be some caps leaking or something, but after recap, that didn't go away either :/

Thanks in advance guys!

start with the easy stuff first. are you sure the right speaker hasnt blown. make sure the solder is good to the speaker and that the wire hasnt been knicked and that the wire connection to the connector is good first.

I actually noticed it because I was installing speaker kit. Once I found it wasn't right, I thought new speaker was defective, so I reinstalled originals and ran sound test again, which was first time I had done so in 6 months I've owned game.

Right speaker sound missing on either set of speakers.

Also swapped L/R wires to make sure it wasn't speakers....definitely good speakers :/

ok did you check continuity from the connector to the speaker and to the board? make sure you are getting signal out of the board first. i believe that is connector cn3 and 4 for the right speaker, follow the wires back to the board to make sure you are dealing with the correct connector. also once you find the right connector on the board check for a cold solder joint...

Reflowed all pins when I did capacitor replacements, but I did NOT check continuity from connector to speaker.

I will certainly check that tomorrow.