yeah i know, just not ready to spend that amount of cash yet. I upgraded by TZ with just a better woofer, crossover and the LPAD and it sounds much better. I have some flipper fidelity's in my other pins and i felt that the only real difference was the bass. so i have just been doing that to my pins. This is my only data east machine and not sure how to hook up the LPAD when they are on two different amps

I’ve got this project in my queue — what exactly needs to be altered? Can you give a step by step guide?

What’s the main difference between the parts? I can see you did some grinding of, what, some extra plastic lip? What’s the glue for? I haven’t had a great record bonding plastic parts in pinball machines so that makes me wary.

I am curious to why the frankensteining? unavailability of the parts or some other reason?

Answer: yup!

I know I posted before asking this but I am still in need if speaker grills ( 1 or both) and the top plastic in the attached photo. Even scans of grills or plastic would get me by. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Just bumping this. Are we talking sawing the part in two, then gluing it back together? If so I’ll just epoxy my existing target bracket.

Results of my B/W pops mod: Look-wise I like the pops but don’t love them. I put dim blue LEDs in there and that region just seems like it needs to be warmer. Switching to red I think. But damn the well adjusted Bally/Williams pops are a thing of beauty play-wise. Recommended.

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Would love to see/hear some video of these in action...

Well my friend, BEHOLD:

https://twitter.com/Samuel_IGN/status/1102447228667387905

Dude, those things are the shiz!! You’ll be defending the ion cannon like a boss! How much cost/time on that project? I’ve been told that fixing/replacing de pops is a real pain. Is this comparable?

Well I cleaned and replaced everything, then adjusted, and yeah that took maybe 45 minutes a pop. The wiring is SO TIGHT for the pop lamps. A whole afternoon — but fun!

And cost was maybe $20?

Would anyone have a left side rail armor piece? Looks like someone dropped something on the game I just picked up, up near the dmd. Not the usual dent place from the head laying on the side rails.

** update - found a set - thanks**

how did you get the lights to strobe like that, i have my machine torn apart, i dont remember those strobing like that?

No physical changes made to lighting. It could be a code thing? You have the latest?

is there any way to fix the silver lettering on the data east pinball apron. some of my silver lettering is gone?

I used "chrome" paint on mine. I guess it is better than the black. I don't look at it that much.

This is what I did with my JP. My original
Plan was to paint the area silver and then paint black and rub off the letters to leave the silver letters showing. I ended up liking the look of a “plaque” when I sprayed the silver so I left it that way. Just something a little different.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-restoration/page/12#post-4291888

Hey all. Joined the club recently and am currently shopping up the machine. Turns out I am missing the entire Jabba's Bounty assembly but I have the flat plastic that came with the new plastic set so I'd like to fabricate a replica. I didn't see the pics I needed in the 800+ photo gallery for this group.

I was wondering if someone could take pics of the back of Jabba's Bounty so I can see what I need to make one. There is a lamp, likely a flasher and a guess some metal housing?

Any help would be great thanks!

The back of the Jabba's Bounty is a clear lens with a press board block...
A regular #44 bayonet lamp socket. I believe it may be a flat type with wires that go
through the hole and mount to a 2prong connector?
The plastic is mounted to the front with 2 small screws and the top of the plastic is bent
at an angle...
The very back of the assembly is made with a thin black plastic that is bent to cover the lamp
assembly.
The hole assembly is mounted with an "L" bracket to the main plastic.

Awesome thanks so much for taking the time to give me that description. That helps. What exactly is a press board block?

If anyone is able to post a couple photos that would be greatly appreciated.

Dude!!!!!!!!!! You rock!!!!!!!!!!

What an elaborate little assembly. Quite overboard for a lamp.

This is super helpful. Thanks so much. I think I should be good to fabricate something!

From one Mike to another Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am guessing that the lamp socket is screwed to the wood as shown in my horrible photo?

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Wow. Now that I have posted my photo.... just bad on so many levels LOL

drummermike You are awesome.

It is offset to one side.

Dude!!!!!!!!!! You rock!!!!!!!!!!

What an elaborate little assembly. Quite overboard for a lamp.

This is super helpful. Thanks so much. I think I should be good to fabricate something!

From one Mike to another Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok sweet thanks!

Wow I had no idea there was a little dome that covers the back of that assembly. Mine doesn't have one. I just used a flex bulb and pointed it directly into the insert to avoid light leaking. Does anybody have a spare dome?

Just joined the club ! Had loan of a SW before but now just scored a project.

Quick question before I dive in - the R2 unit is gonna need to come out for some TLC .... is this pretty straightforward/obvious ?? or are there any top tips / advice that I should be aware of. I haven't read thru all 59 pages of the club posts

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That plastic cover is very flexible. The flex bulb is a good idea.

Once the plastic are removed from the area... and the bottom connector's are unplugged...
There are two nuts that hold the assembly down... Be careful! the unit is spring loaded.

I'm wondering the proper location for this clear plastic. The photo shows where it was located on mine originally but I don't feel that that is correct but I could be wrong.

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I think that is correct but it should be turned on an angle to go under the wire form. It is to prevent a ball trap. Mine is missing. I remember I did have a ball stuck there behind Jabba. Never knew about this plastic! There are 2 others on the other side of the playfield.

I am going to get out my plastic and make one using your picture for reference.

4th attempt to buy a quality reproduction translite was unsuccessful.

Looking to borrow or buy one that is NOS or a very clean original so I can scan it and make quality translites.

I have restored over 200 pieces of artwork.

Thanks Mike. Once I installed the wireform I had to turn the plastic and then it all made sense I will have to remember to post pics of my custom Jabba's Bounty once i finish making it.

Thanks guys. With your help I was able to fabricate a Jabba's Bounty assembly.

Start with the CPR plastic, cut wood and drill, add insert and glue, make L bracket and drill, add socket,diode and wiring, smooth edges and paint black and add a green LED for Jabba. Worked out great. Only thing I would do differently is to use thicker wood so that the screws have more to bite into. (still need to rivet Jabba to the lower plastic).

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Nice work! Try a flex bulb to get the light in the insert.

I think the back piece you are missing is to stop the light from reflecting backwards. A flex bulb will probably stop that though.

Good call. I will try a flex! Thanks.

Looks great! Can confirm a flex bulb will work well.

i am re-doing my cabinet and i need to replace the sticker on the handle. i have found 2 different ones. the first look better to quality to me but have less stickers. has anyone bought these and can give some feedback

http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/cabinet-parts/apron-decals/7433/apron-decals-for-star-wars-data-east

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/820-6090-00

I have the Marco's as a backup. I like that it has the D/T decals.

Thanks. Got a flex in there now and looks good!