Data East Star Wars Club...Members & Fans Welcome.

(Topic ID: 72482)

Data East Star Wars Club...Members & Fans Welcome.


By MustangPaul

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,942 posts
  • 268 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by atariaction
  • Topic is favorited by 126 Pinsiders

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There are 2942 posts in this topic. You are on page 59 of 59.
#2901 23 days ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

i am refurbishing my machine and i noticed the woofer speaker is not a woofer but some mid-range speaker which sounds like crap. I have replaced the woofer in my TZ with no problem with this guide :http://www.dziedzic.us/wpc_speaker_replacement.html
however the data east star wars seems to be wired differently, can i just hook the crossover in line with the existing wiring? and do i need to add volume control to the mid range and tweeter speakers like i did with my TZ?

If your goal is to get great sound the get a Pinsound and either their speakers, Flipper Fidelity, or something of your liking. The stock DE sound board is crappola plus you can put in custom better quality songs. Best mod I’ve ever bought

#2902 22 days ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

If your goal is to get great sound the get a Pinsound and either their speakers, Flipper Fidelity, or something of your liking. The stock DE sound board is crappola plus you can put in custom better quality songs. Best mod I’ve ever bought

yeah i know, just not ready to spend that amount of cash yet. I upgraded by TZ with just a better woofer, crossover and the LPAD and it sounds much better. I have some flipper fidelity's in my other pins and i felt that the only real difference was the bass. so i have just been doing that to my pins. This is my only data east machine and not sure how to hook up the LPAD when they are on two different amps

#2903 22 days ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

yeah i know, just not ready to spend that amount of cash yet. I upgraded by TZ with just a better woofer, crossover and the LPAD and it sounds much better. I have some flipper fidelity's in my other pins and i felt that the only real difference was the bass. so i have just been doing that to my pins. This is my only data east machine and not sure how to hook up the LPAD when they are on two different amps

BTW, the humm goes away as well. Does the speaker cackle like you can hear the paper? If so, then any speaker online same size will work. And it does look like a midrange and not a sub, but never bothered to fully investigate as it got replaced.

Again, gonna sound like a Pinsound salesman here but when you hear the full John Williams theatrical music playing (esp Vader’s version) you are gonna wonder WTF you’ve been doing. It’s true stereo and you’ll never complain about it being too soft. If anything you’ll be turning it down. Just sayin

#2904 16 days ago

I’ve got this project in my queue — what exactly needs to be altered? Can you give a step by step guide?

Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Ok, just got done Frankenstein’n The Death Star Up/Down Target Assembly. What a pain but it’s working so totally worth it. If I ever see the parts online I’m buying them for backups.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

#2905 16 days ago

Those pictures from my post is your step by step guide. Marcos sells a similar parts (listed below) as the originals are never in stock. Your gonna need a dremel and superglue or something else that bonds plastic

Original parts:

Complete Set:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/500-5618-00

Individual Parts
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5351-00
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-5350-00
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-5630-00

Frankenstein Parts:
These parts are in stock - so between the two of them you should be able to Frankenstein the gate like I did. Key ingredient - patience and accuracy

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-6277-00
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/545-6278-00

#2906 16 days ago

What’s the main difference between the parts? I can see you did some grinding of, what, some extra plastic lip? What’s the glue for? I haven’t had a great record bonding plastic parts in pinball machines so that makes me wary.

#2907 15 days ago
Quoted from wolfemaaan:

Those pictures from my post is your step by step guide. Marcos sells a similar parts (listed below) as the originals are never in stock. Your gonna need a dremel and superglue or something else that bonds plastic

I am curious to why the frankensteining? unavailability of the parts or some other reason?

#2908 15 days ago
Quoted from koops:

I am curious to why the frankensteining? unavailability of the parts or some other reason?

Answer: yup!

#2909 15 days ago

I know I posted before asking this but I am still in need if speaker grills ( 1 or both) and the top plastic in the attached photo. Even scans of grills or plastic would get me by. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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#2910 15 days ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

What’s the main difference between the parts? I can see you did some grinding of, what, some extra plastic lip? What’s the glue for? I haven’t had a great record bonding plastic parts in pinball machines so that makes me wary.

Just bumping this. Are we talking sawing the part in two, then gluing it back together? If so I’ll just epoxy my existing target bracket.

#2911 15 days ago

Results of my B/W pops mod: Look-wise I like the pops but don’t love them. I put dim blue LEDs in there and that region just seems like it needs to be warmer. Switching to red I think. But damn the well adjusted Bally/Williams pops are a thing of beauty play-wise. Recommended.

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#2912 15 days ago
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:

well adjusted Bally/Williams pops are a thing of beauty play-wise

Would love to see/hear some video of these in action...

#2913 15 days ago
Quoted from pudealee:

Would love to see/hear some video of these in action...

Well my friend, BEHOLD:

https://twitter.com/Samuel_IGN/status/1102447228667387905

#2914 15 days ago

Dude, those things are the shiz!! You’ll be defending the ion cannon like a boss! How much cost/time on that project? I’ve been told that fixing/replacing de pops is a real pain. Is this comparable?

#2915 14 days ago

Well I cleaned and replaced everything, then adjusted, and yeah that took maybe 45 minutes a pop. The wiring is SO TIGHT for the pop lamps. A whole afternoon — but fun!

#2916 14 days ago

And cost was maybe $20?

#2917 14 days ago

Would anyone have a left side rail armor piece? Looks like someone dropped something on the game I just picked up, up near the dmd. Not the usual dent place from the head laying on the side rails.

** update - found a set - thanks**

#2918 14 days ago

how did you get the lights to strobe like that, i have my machine torn apart, i dont remember those strobing like that?

#2919 14 days ago

No physical changes made to lighting. It could be a code thing? You have the latest?

#2920 10 days ago

is there any way to fix the silver lettering on the data east pinball apron. some of my silver lettering is gone?

#2921 9 days ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

is there any way to fix the silver lettering on the data east pinball apron. some of my silver lettering is gone?

Well there’s 3 ways to look at it. You can find one of those plastic chrome shops (somebody posted a link in this thread) and see how that comes out). 2, wait till somebody sells one (good luck there). Or 3, just accept it as part of the machines life and character and move on.
I personally only mess with stuff that effects the game play but can see how that would bother somebody.

That’s my 2 cents, and it’s worth half a penny at best

#2922 9 days ago

I used "chrome" paint on mine. I guess it is better than the black. I don't look at it that much.

#2923 9 days ago
Quoted from jgadzia:

is there any way to fix the silver lettering on the data east pinball apron. some of my silver lettering is gone?

This is what I did with my JP. My original
Plan was to paint the area silver and then paint black and rub off the letters to leave the silver letters showing. I ended up liking the look of a “plaque” when I sprayed the silver so I left it that way. Just something a little different.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/jurassic-park-restoration/page/12#post-4291888

#2924 7 days ago

Hey all. Joined the club recently and am currently shopping up the machine. Turns out I am missing the entire Jabba's Bounty assembly but I have the flat plastic that came with the new plastic set so I'd like to fabricate a replica. I didn't see the pics I needed in the 800+ photo gallery for this group.

I was wondering if someone could take pics of the back of Jabba's Bounty so I can see what I need to make one. There is a lamp, likely a flasher and a guess some metal housing?

Any help would be great thanks!

#2925 6 days ago
Quoted from atariaction:

I was wondering if someone could take pics of the back of Jabba's Bounty so I can see what I need to make one. There is a lamp, likely a flasher and a guess some metal housing?

The back of the Jabba's Bounty is a clear lens with a press board block...
A regular #44 bayonet lamp socket. I believe it may be a flat type with wires that go
through the hole and mount to a 2prong connector?
The plastic is mounted to the front with 2 small screws and the top of the plastic is bent
at an angle...
The very back of the assembly is made with a thin black plastic that is bent to cover the lamp
assembly.
The hole assembly is mounted with an "L" bracket to the main plastic.

#2926 6 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The back of the Jabba's Bounty is a clear lens with a press board block...
A regular #44 bayonet lamp socket. I believe it may be a flat type with wires that go
through the hole and mount to a 2prong connector?
The plastic is mounted to the front with 2 small screws and the top of the plastic is bent
at an angle...
The very back of the assembly is made with a thin black plastic that is bent to cover the lamp
assembly.
The hole assembly is mounted with an "L" bracket to the main plastic.

Awesome thanks so much for taking the time to give me that description. That helps. What exactly is a press board block?

If anyone is able to post a couple photos that would be greatly appreciated.

#2927 6 days ago

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#2928 6 days ago
Quoted from drummermike:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Dude!!!!!!!!!! You rock!!!!!!!!!!

What an elaborate little assembly. Quite overboard for a lamp.

This is super helpful. Thanks so much. I think I should be good to fabricate something!

From one Mike to another Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

#2929 6 days ago

I am guessing that the lamp socket is screwed to the wood as shown in my horrible photo?

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#2930 6 days ago

Wow. Now that I have posted my photo.... just bad on so many levels LOL

#2931 6 days ago

drummermike You are awesome.

#2932 6 days ago
Quoted from atariaction:

lamp socket is screwed to the wood as shown in my horrible photo?

It is offset to one side.

#2933 5 days ago
Quoted from drummermike:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Dude!!!!!!!!!! You rock!!!!!!!!!!

What an elaborate little assembly. Quite overboard for a lamp.

This is super helpful. Thanks so much. I think I should be good to fabricate something!

From one Mike to another Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Quoted from vec-tor:

It is offset to one side.

Ok sweet thanks!

#2934 5 days ago

Wow I had no idea there was a little dome that covers the back of that assembly. Mine doesn't have one. I just used a flex bulb and pointed it directly into the insert to avoid light leaking. Does anybody have a spare dome?

#2935 5 days ago

Just joined the club ! Had loan of a SW before but now just scored a project.

Quick question before I dive in - the R2 unit is gonna need to come out for some TLC .... is this pretty straightforward/obvious ?? or are there any top tips / advice that I should be aware of. I haven't read thru all 59 pages of the club posts

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#2936 5 days ago
Quoted from Pahuffman:

Wow I had no idea there was a little dome that covers the back of that assembly. Mine doesn't have one. I just used a flex bulb and pointed it directly into the insert to avoid light leaking. Does anybody have a spare dome?

That plastic cover is very flexible. The flex bulb is a good idea.

#2937 5 days ago
Quoted from Ive:

the R2 unit is gonna need to come out for some TLC .... is this pretty straightforward/obvious ?? or are there any top tips / advice that I should be aware of.

Once the plastic are removed from the area... and the bottom connector's are unplugged...
There are two nuts that hold the assembly down... Be careful! the unit is spring loaded.

#2938 5 days ago

I'm wondering the proper location for this clear plastic. The photo shows where it was located on mine originally but I don't feel that that is correct but I could be wrong.

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#2939 5 days ago
Quoted from atariaction:

I'm wondering the proper location for this clear plastic. The photo shows where it was located on mine originally but I don't feel that that is correct but I could be wrong.
[quoted image]

I think that is correct but it should be turned on an angle to go under the wire form. It is to prevent a ball trap. Mine is missing. I remember I did have a ball stuck there behind Jabba. Never knew about this plastic! There are 2 others on the other side of the playfield.

#2940 5 days ago

I am going to get out my plastic and make one using your picture for reference.

#2941 4 days ago

4th attempt to buy a quality reproduction translite was unsuccessful.

Looking to borrow or buy one that is NOS or a very clean original so I can scan it and make quality translites.

I have restored over 200 pieces of artwork.

#2942 1 day ago
Quoted from drummermike:

I think that is correct but it should be turned on an angle to go under the wire form. It is to prevent a ball trap. Mine is missing. I remember I did have a ball stuck there behind Jabba. Never knew about this plastic! There are 2 others on the other side of the playfield.

Quoted from drummermike:

I am going to get out my plastic and make one using your picture for reference.

Thanks Mike. Once I installed the wireform I had to turn the plastic and then it all made sense I will have to remember to post pics of my custom Jabba's Bounty once i finish making it.

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