(Topic ID: 72482)
Linked Games
Star Wars
Data East, 1992
Topic Gallery
Wenatchee, WA
Quoted from Guido13:And it begins...cleaning up the new purchase!
Have fun... Congratulations!
Quoted from Guido13:And it begins
I've had my DESW for 21+ years. We still love it. Pairs well with our Stern SW as well. Good luck with the restoration!
Spent last night tweaking, swapped my color dmd over from avatar le. Had to make a custom power cable harness, but worked like a charm. Is there any way to disable the multiball gi flash? One of the things I just hate about DE games of the era.
Quoted from dung:Is there any way to disable the multiball gi flash?
Hard wire the circuit. Or, reprogram the ROM.
Quoted from dung:Is there any way to disable the multiball gi flash? One of the things I just hate about DE games of the era.
I have an EnerGI Maestro in both of my Data East pins. You can control the intensity and fade rate of the GI. You could set it to always on but I found that giving it a slower fade rate makes it less crazy especially if you have LEDs. It also bypasses the relay so you don’t hear the clicking anymore.
are these nails supposed to be sticking out under the slingshots on both sides. looks like someone just hammered these in for some kind of support. If they are not supposed to be there is there any reason to leave them. i am going to clear coat this baby.
star wars 2 (resized).jpgstar wars 3 (resized).jpgQuoted from cabuford:I have an EnerGI Maestro in both of my Data East pins. You can control the intensity and fade rate of the GI. You could set it to always on but I found that giving it a slower fade rate makes it less crazy especially if you have LEDs. It also bypasses the relay so you don’t hear the clicking anymore.
Hrm, would probably sell before I did that. I do like the game, but plan is to sell down to 10ish machines this year for maintenance purposes. Interesting idea though and will look into it.
Quoted from jgadzia:are these nails supposed to be sticking out under the slingshots on both sides.
The nails keep the top plastics from sagging on to the kicker heads. If you remove them...
Make sure to put them back and that the top of the nail head sticks just above the kick heads.
The kickers will jam on the underside of the sling shot plastics.( just look at old Gottlieb EM games).
I think about/approximately 1/8" above the kicker head or more.
Quoted from Guido13:this piece comes flying out.
Quoted from Guido13:I looked everywhere for where it came from. Any ideas?
Top right corner plastic just under chewy.
Two questions:
1. Do these drop targets look right? Especially the yellow one?
2. I’m having issues with the general illumination lights. Currently, the front half of the machine is lit. The back half is not. Interestingly, it was the opposite yesterday. Ha!!! I did reset some of the wiring cables and connected a few ground wires.
Any ideas would be helpful!!!
Thanks
C2280FDA-F469-48E9-BEF6-287A44E0C54E (resized).jpegQuoted from Guido13:Two questions:
1. Do these drop targets look right? Especially the yellow one?
2. I’m having issues with the general illumination lights. Currently, the front half of the machine is lit. The back half is not. Interestingly, it was the opposite yesterday. Ha!!! I did reset some of the wiring cables and connected a few ground wires.
Any ideas would be helpful!!!
Thanks
[quoted image]
1. While the yellow is very unique and looks like a krakhead spent quality time installing it, they sell full drop target kits & decals at Marcos
2. I believe it’s the CN8 connector on the Power Suppy. If it’s brittle or cracked from the long term heat, then you might need to wiggle it or replace it
Good luck
Quoted from wolfemaaan:2. I believe it’s the CN8 connector on the Power Suppy. If it’s brittle or cracked from the long term heat, then you might need to wiggle it or replace it
The other option here is loose fuses. I believe the front and back halves of the GI run on separate fuses.
To test the fuses just go push on them. The holders they use fail over time and no longer grip the fuse with enough tension causing it to not conduct.
Quoted from Pahuffman:loose fuses
Yes! bad cheap fuse clips!
Quoted from wolfemaaan:connector on the Power Suppy
Yes! bad cheap connectors... Power Supply & PPB board!
Quoted from PACMAN:nd its total crap.
Who was the seller? I'm looking as well, and would like to avoid...
Quoted from PACMAN:[quoted image][quoted image]
He won't take it back?
One step forward....two steps back! Thanks for all the help. You guys are awesome. I wanted to learn more about pinball machines and here it is!
The original power supply board - front half of GI lamps worked. Back half did not. The lamp matrix/cpu controlled lamps worked but I noticed a few lamps quit working the more I messed with it.
The second power supply board (friend had a spare) - all GI lamps worked. No lamp matrix/CPU controlled lamps worked AND the F2 fuse burnt up above the capacitor and F4 fuse burnt up on the power supply.
I reinstalled the original power supply board - ALL GI lamps work. No lamp matrix/cpu controlled lamps work AND the F2 fuse burnt up and the F4 fuse burnt up!!! WTH?????
The flashers, coils, DMD all worked with both power supply boards.
New power supply board? MBU issue? Other thoughts?
On another topic, I have a spare MBU (Rottendog) but the DMD won’t fire up and I can’t oberate the game. I have a CPU 1.02. I’m thinking this chip is not compatable with the new MBU?
Thanks for the help!!!!!
Yeah he’ll take it back.
Quoted from MustangPaul:He won't take it back?
Quoted from PACMAN:Yeah he’ll take it back.
Good. I really don't understand how sellers can let that kind of shit out, I test the mods I sell 4 times as I make them and 1 final time before they are shipped. I have had ZERO returns for any kind of problems.
Quoted from dung:Just got a star wars. Working on updating to the home rom as we speak. Had a question on the display rom. Currently running A1.05. What version do I need for colordmd and chadh's rom? His site says its the same as colordmd, but colordmd doesn't say which one on their site.
Quoted from cabuford:Display 1.05 is what you need. I have chads rom and a color dmd and it works great.
Display 1.04 and 1.05 are actually the same code...but 1.04 is the 2x 2MB chip version and 1.05 is the 1x 4MB chip version combined on 1 chip.
Depends on which way the DMD board is jumpered to read.
And congrats on the new machine!
Quoted from Guido13:What slope do you like best for the play field? 6? 7? Somewhere in between?
I set all my games to 6.5 and it seems to work just fine.
Bayamon
Quoted from robertg130:Hi,guys I bought a DE SW,The R2D2 is yellow and very aged.Is someone here that makes a restoration,re chrome.??
Thanks
I was wondering the same thing.
Quoted from robertg130:Hi,guys I bought a DE SW,The R2D2 is yellow and very aged.Is someone here that makes a restoration,re chrome.??
Thanks
Chris at pinballplating.com can get plastic rechromed. He's sc93cobra here on Pinside.
Quoted from MustangPaul:Chris at pinballplating.com can get plastic rechromed. He's sc93cobra here on Pinside.
Keep in mind - R2D2 is NOT chrome in the films. His head dome or whatever you call it is really more of a satin aluminum finish. I haven't done it myself but have seen people have success with simply spray painting the part with a satin silver rattle can. Its much more authentic in my opinion.
Quoted from Dkjimbo:Keep in mind - R2D2 is NOT chrome in the films. His head dome or whatever you call it is really more of a satin aluminum finish. I haven't done it myself but have seen people have success with simply spray painting the part with a satin silver rattle can. Its much more authentic in my opinion.
True but it came chromed on the game. Which ever he prefers.
Quoted from Dkjimbo:Keep in mind - R2D2 is NOT chrome in the films. His head dome or whatever you call it is really more of a satin aluminum finish. I haven't done it myself but have seen people have success with simply spray painting the part with a satin silver rattle can. Its much more authentic in my opinion.
Technically R2D2 had a little man inside as well, not sure if anybody has tried to replicate this as well inside the game. ♂️
Quoted from PACMAN:Has anyone tried rechroming R2? He’s pretty fragile.
When I had the game I had it re-chromed and it turned out perfect....also about $60. Like I said Chris at pinballplating.com will take care of you.
WHAT??? Did they put the Remove sticker on the wrong side??? This is beyond stupid. I gotta hear what they have to say about this. 
Quoted from MustangPaul:WHAT??? Did they put the Remove sticker on the wrong side??? This is beyond stupid. I gotta hear what they have to say about this.
I got this but pretty sure Pac-Man isn’t laughing. What’s that saying? “Fool me once, shame on you; fool me twice, shame on me.” Better you than me? ♂️
I sent pix and requested a return through EBay. EBay provided an automatic return label. I printed it out, then mailed it. Then I get this message from Jeff at Classic Arcade.
New message from: classicarcades (20,788YellowShooting Star)
“I would have sent you another translite at my expense and you could keep the defective one but you did not give me a chance. You forced me to send a return label and refund and I did not need the backwards one back and have no choice but to just refund the purchase and pay to return the translite”
Quoted from PACMAN:I sent pix and requested a return through EBay. EBay provided an automatic return label. I printed it out, then mailed it. Then I get this message from Jeff at Classic Arcade.
New message from: classicarcades (20,788YellowShooting Star)
“I would have sent you another translite at my expense and you could keep the defective one but you did not give me a chance. You forced me to send a return label and refund and I did not need the backwards one back and have no choice but to just refund the purchase and pay to return the translite”
That's a shame, I'd love to have the backwards one as joke wall art. How did it look otherwise? Why didn't you just reach out to classic arcades first and point out the super obvious mistake?
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