looking for alternative translite ,anyone?

Data east owners and fanatics! Wanted: Data East Star Wars for my basement. Players condition is great. Project is even better. Anyone know of any? Let me know. Eastern Pennsylvania. Willing to drive, but not crazy far.

I won a SW Pro translight at a local tournament. It almost works.

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I have this one, I really like it... seller is pugsotoys5zpt on eBay but it looks like he doesn't have any more.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-star-wars-clubmembers-fans-welcome/page/9#post-1858829

It looks like Retro Refurbs carries it.

https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/star-wars-data-east-dark-side-alternate-pinball-translite/

Hello, I have some consultations where you can buy that led strip? do you connect it to the gi lights? is 6v the led? Thank you

Hello. I'm thinking about it to powdercoat lockbar, legs, siderails ...
I need some inspiration. Has anybody done this befor on the SWDE? Red, blue or silver? Some photos?
Thank you!

I cut a thumb size square paint sample chip out of the inside main box at the back with a scalpel, for two reasons:
1. nobody would notice the wood fill later and I could paint the missing piece to test acruracy
2. I knew the inside of the box had no sun damage, or tabaco damage, so the colour was going to be very close to the original blue

I then took that thumb size paint sample chip to a professional industrial paint company and they sent it out to be spectral analysed and then had the paint made up by them based on that. It came out perfect, a 100% match, even under a magnifying daylight balanced LED detail lamp. It also didn't cost to much, I have even given other people my left overs and it matched theirs also perfectly.

As for the decals, I have a high end wand scanner and have scanned in my mint cab and photoshopped everything including the blue to a cmyk output profile, the prices of overseas panel graphics is ridiculous I can get them printed locally for 1/10th of the price some of these people are asking.

I did it for a backup incase.

bought from Cointaker, plugged to GI and yes 6v

Finally finished installing my metal-mods stickers. I replaced the tall Data East caps with regular Williams caps.

So finally getting back to giving my SW a little love after almost a year of life getting in the way. Trying to dig into this lighting problem again and just went over a ton of diodes found one dead on my non lighting pop bumper but still chasing this ghosting. I recall seeing someone mention they found diodes installed backwards? Any inclination from my testing pointing to where it could be?

Seems like it was on the scoops. It was a huge problem for my ghosting. Once I replaced it, ghosting went away 100%.

Does anyone have any custom instruction cards for DE SW?
Please let me know

Thanks

About to enter the club and I'm stoked! I am looking for the death star speaker grills if someone has a spare or knows where to get some. Thanks!

Well i wasn't looking that hard and yes now I am in the club to. It works but needs love. Guess it did the kessel run a few times and shows it. Now to read up and decide how far i need to trick it out.

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Get the latest code. ChadH did a great job with the updates!

That's one i things on my list at some point possibly going with pin sound and maybe get wild and do a color dmd. But need to address other issues. Broken or worn wear items non working gi etc. Currently have mixed match square target faces yellow some are Opaque and some are transparent. The opaque are the ones i remember back then playing it when it was new on a route. But wonder if transparent ones and lighting them are better looking. Also this one has clear pop bumper caps had thought they were supposed to be red but saw in thread some posts back that was changed. Seen lots of pics and videos of modded ones so it's now time to decide what mods if any and which ones to do. This has some led's and some incandescent another thing to think about go full on led or go back to the old school look.

I went with red translucent target faces and red led flashers behind them and I think it looks great.
The red bumper caps are available new online. Apparently the clear ones were quieter.

I switched to regular Williams style caps as a bunch of the cap screws broke off in the hex spacer holding the cap up, and the spacer has weird threading and is impossible to find.

Hey just wanted to let you all know a solution to a longstanding problem I had putting a Color DMD into DESW:

The problem: The DMD would drop certain graphics elements, including the score, after hitting the ramp consecutively.

The solution: I replaced the ribbon cable from the driver board (the shorter one from Marco I posted above worked fine) AND updated the code to the latest unofficial — I was one update behind. It was most likely the ribbon cable, but just in case.

Crazy problem — I’ve swapped lots of boards and stuff sorting through this. Hope this helps someone else.

I have most of the parts on hand to gut the pop bumpers Marco shows the special ring 535-5874-00 ,Special pop bumper rod 535-5875-00, the hex bushing 02-4252-20 but it doesn't take the original cap screws you need a larger 6-32 machine screw they are listed as a sub for the 254-5012-00 hex spacer.

I have finally joined the club..

This machine has been a fully restored: http://aussiepinball.com/index.php?topic=14789.0

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The black cabinet looks great!

Can I join the club? Picked this up last weekend. 9 hr round trip. Was really ruff but all the parts were there and the playfield was good. Had a good bit of board work to do, power supply was sending 150 volts to the dmd instead of 100 causing it to burn all the dots at all times and the visuals even brighter. That was a fun one to trace down. Luckily I have a LAH as well with the same boards so I could do trouble shooting. New rubbers, leds, waxed the black playfield few shorts here and there. Added a couple ships and some toppers. Luckily being a star wars nerd I have several pieces on hand to play with. I wasn't digging the red brake light looking pop caps so I changed to clear and did blue and white leds to compliment r2. Had to change r2's head rotation motor. Still have some parts coming. Going to change a couple leds. Going to put 6 led crystal bulbs to brighten the pop bumpers, add a blue under the force scoop and green under Jabba scoop and put mirror blades on when they come in. I've been hunting this game for years. Well before I got into the hobby. Almost bought the stern one because I had all but given up my "last hope" of finding this title but I'm glad that I decided to "stay on target" and finally found one relatively close to me. It's running the 1.03 code and I have no eprom burner or know of anyone who does so if someone were to be boss enough to be able to get me chads code on am eprom then they would get one hell of an ataboy from me. This one came from a non collector who bought it from a guy who was given it by a route guy in a trade and hasn't been touched in years as far as maintenance is concerned. She was ruff. Glad I could save another one. These are getting rarer it seems. Anyway glad to be here. Was lurking last night and read the first 16 pages. Have a long way to go but there's a lot of cool ideas and advice you guys have given so I will read on as I can.

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Reach out to Meloyelo51 here on Pinside for all your ROM burning needs.

All the fun details about the update can be found here:
http://www.pinballcode.com/

From the man himself. Thank you sir. I just sent him a message.

Blushes
It's so nice to be loved!

If you love them, don't forget about Chad

Has anyone come across a replacement for the inner blue dome for r2d2? Mine is half missing. Cheers

Hey all, almost done bringing my pin back to life. Last big task is figuring out the death star drop target. It currently doesn't do anything and when you pop the hood its clear that someone did some hack work. Is this at least the correct motor? If nothing else I know this random fuse isn't supposed to be there. Any advice on putting this back to stock would be awesome. TIA

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Anyone know a source for these or am I really going to have to drop $50 for a full motor?

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Unofficial v1.07 ROM gameplay.
Not the best main ramp did lose the great function for collecting more and more points.

You seem to be registering Death Star hits when you hit the middle Xwing targets. Also does your Death Star target even go up? I don't see it on the video, ever shot seems to go right in.

I did this modification because after one week playing the death star gate always broken.
The gate assy is working well but in this case I don't destroy the plastic gate.

Need better soultion e.g aluminium or another light but strong material.

Printed the free pop bumper cap offered by PinballCharlie in his thread here

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/limited-run-tatooine-and-hoth-mods-star-wars-pinball#post-4342341

Works great on Data East even though it was designed for the Stern machine.

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That’s great! Don’t the caps go up and down in desw? They don’t in stern Star Wars, so I hope it doesn’t jar your at-at loose. Look awesome. PinballCharlie is a stud and makes cool products. Nice of him to give that one away!

Nice! It's perfect because during AT-AT Walkers mode you are supposed to hit the pop bumpers.

The original ones did. The were larger and mounted to the pop bumper metal ring. I replaced them with Williams caps that mount to the pop bumper body (which I also replaced with red translucent) so they don't move. The original ones were super noisy.

The ATAT hasn't moved yet and he's not even glued on!

Exactly!

Hey everyone, has there been any attempt to 3D print R2D2’s body? Mines getting brittle and I’d rather try and find a solution before it breaks. Thanks!

Anyone have a recommendation on specific red paint for touchup work? I picked up a matching blue, but the body on my cab is pretty rough.

Also still seeking someone to sell or make death star speaker grills

Great to know the cap fits DESW! When I get time (likely after summer), I'll see about designing another cap that can mount the Snowspeeder that comes in the Hot Wheels set with the AT-AT and upload to Thingiverse for printing. Then you can print out a combination of AT-ATs and Snowspeeders to fill out the four PB caps.

Based on the photos - it looks like I'll have to design a mount for the Snowspeeder on the mid-left cap to jut out away from the wireform above. And the cap screws are E/W and not N/S on a stock machine, right?

A cap for the snowspeeder would be sweet! I was thinking about where to put that in the machine.

The cap screwes are N/S on s stock machine. The Data east pop bumper caps mount to extensions on the metal pop bumper ring (which are E/W), the caps actually moved when activated. The holes in the pop bumper body are not used. So when I switched cap styles, I didn't reorient anything, I just used the holes in the pop bumper body.

For your mod, I would imagine you wouldn't want it to shake, so you would would use the holes in the pop bumper body, which obviously are standard since the cap fits a new stern and an old data east

Let me know if you have any more questions!

I like the caps!
Cap screws are #4 metrics if I remember right, recently took one to Ace Hardware to match...

Could someone do me a favor and measure you legs? Something is just weird that i have yet to figure out. The table is too flat. I have the front levelers up (shorter) and rear all the way down. Game is still too flat according to the built in level. The game sits flatter than everyother game i have, even older williams T2. Legs appear stock, with the rough powdercoat finish. Front an back legs measure 28". Front lockdown bar measures 37", all other games are 36".

Note: Data East Star wars legs are 28 1/2" long.
The legs have a pointy interior fold and light fluting along each legs sides.
The legs are normally powder coated black crinkle finish.
The leg bolts are 9/16" low profile acorn heads with a black oxide finish.

DE do sit higher than the Stern or Williams that I have. Back boxes are almost touching my ceiling.

I resorted to this piece of wood under the back. My DE LW3 got to 6.5 with the front all the way down and the rear all the way up but Star Wars wouldn’t come close. The legs that came on it were not stock and I swapped with a brand new set of legs that I had painted for my virtual cab. Now it’s up to 7 degrees and I haven’t lowered it back but I need to try. Some shots are better, some are worse.

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I’ve had this problem with DESW and had to put shorter (standard) legs on the front. I’m not sure if there are variations on this cabinet, but getting 6.5 degrees was impossible with my initial legs. Maybe that’s intended, but maybe this cab had different leg front/back lengths for some runs?

Thanks for the info. I am sure mine are stock, glad (sort of) I am not the only one that noticed this. Why put a tilt guage on the game but not able to get that tilt with stock legs? Strange.

I owned a DESW years ago and when I bought another one figured it was a keeper. Well, I guess never say never in pinball! I decided to put it up for sale. It is excellent condition and a full topside rebuild. Really it is about perfect other than the cabinet which was in pretty good shape, but I would have redone the cabinet also if I had known the extent of the other items- it has a couple minor scratches on the sides but front and head are excellent. If anyone has any interest please let me know. I am not in a big rush and have lots of photos and video. I was going to ask $6k. I know that is way over the typical going price but with the extras came up with:
Game $3500
Pinsound & FF $500
Color DMD $400
Custom LED & OCD $300
Misc new parts, new plastic, cpu, speakerlights, playfield protector, new shifter, etc, etc $800
Time & effort $500

I see some ridiculous prices +6k for basic DESW. Of course if I list it will need to figure in the commission.

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