Star Wars
Data East, 1992Just purchased a Data East Star Wars. What is the easiest way to get a set of STAR WARS Unofficial v.1.07 roms (http://www.pinballcode.com/sw107)? I don't have or know how to burn roms myself, so I would definitely be willing to pay someone to burn and send them to me.
Hi! I'm fine tuning my updated SWDE (thanks Chad for the FW, bravo!)
Sometimes my switch under R2D2 does not activate simply because the ball space in this passage is too wide and the ball passes aside. Here's an image of mine. Do you know if there should be some rubber in R2D2 or something to make it narrow? Thanks!
Yah mine does that too. I was going to put a bumper around the shaft to kick the ball over, just havent gotten to it.
Quoted from TimberOne:Yah mine does that too. I was going to put a bumper around the shaft to kick the ball over, just havent gotten to it.
That was my thought, but it has to be a bumper (a rubber, I suppose?) small enough, as R2D2 goes up and down, and apart from that the ball could get stuck to the right of this bumper.
Quoted from vec-tor:Why not adjust the switch so as to make it more sensitive to ball pass through?
yeah, somehow I tried but no improvement. The passage is too wide :/
Quoted from beepbeep:I recently picked up the new update 1.05 for my machine, I installed it and 2 prongs overlap as you can see in pic, i assume this isn't right. Can someone please confirm this is the right spot on board for update and if not where should it go?
That looks like a Display ROM which would go on the DMD. Definitely do NOT turn your game on with that in the CPU socket! Display ROM is physically bigger than the CPU ROM.
If you want the most fun out of your Star Wars, I recommend getting v.1.07 CPU ROM which you can read about here:
http://www.pinballcode.com/
I did not turn on, I pulled it out and put other chip back. thank you for confirming this and the recommendation.
About my problem just a few posts before, I think I have a solution. I noticed I had a pin just before the R2D2 passageway without any rubber. I put this black cylinder rubber and the round white rubber (see image). Now the ball bounces when arriving from the right lane, slowing the ball down and assuring that the ball pushes the R2D2 switch.
Please could anyone tell his/her config in this pin? Maybe only one rubber?
Quoted from tobisham:Please could anyone tell his/her config in this pin?
OEM Factory is the metal post is bare. No rubber ring or bottom buffer.
Thank you both for the precise information. I have decided for the moment to put the white rubber ring only, It kind of stops the ball and drops it slowly, but always activating the switch
I have one last question 
Look at the picture, is the only blue silicone cap of the machine supposed to be set under the death star insert? I ask this because I can't see any difference with or without it.
Hey guys, here is a pic of the start of my playfield swap that I am working on, Now I am thinking about re-decaling the cabinet. Does anyone have any recommendations of which decals to use, and where to get them? The only ones I could find were on ebay, and one place in Europe. I am also looking for advice on touch up paint for the cabinet, Thanks!
Quoted from tobisham:I have one last question Look at the picture, is the only blue silicone cap of the machine supposed to be set under the death star insert?
That is factory.
Hi, I need help with a question with my star wars data east.
Sometimes all the coils have more strength and other times all the coils have less strength and I can not find out what this problem is.
the difference is very little, but it is notorious.
I wanted to consult them if any of this happened to him and if they know what is due.
I discard power supply problem, I already have a new rottendog
I tried to increase the pulse of the strength of the coils through the configuration of the pinball but I have not noticed any difference
Any suggestions?
Thank you
Quoted from Tinnhound:Hey guys, here is a pic of the start of my playfield swap that I am working on, Now I am thinking about re-decaling the cabinet. Does anyone have any recommendations of which decals to use, and where to get them? The only ones I could find were on ebay, and one place in Europe. I am also looking for advice on touch up paint for the cabinet, Thanks!
Jeff ClassicArcades (same name on eBay) I believe is the only one with the actual license to print the art. He's also on Facebook and usually at Allentown and Pintastic.
Quoted from e537186:I wanted to consult them if any of this happened to him and if they know what is due.
I discard power supply problem, I already have a new rottendog
Cold solder joints PPB board. AC ripple on 50volt/32volt.
AC select relay going bad...
Quoted from vec-tor:Cold solder joints PPB board. AC ripple on 50volt/32volt.
AC select relay going bad...
I realized that when I turned on equipment with high electrical consumption the pinball worked slower without force.
I think I solve it. I had configured the jumper 230 in the entrance of the transformer and in my country it is 220v.
the input voltage fluctuates between 210 to 220
for now it works well and without power changes in the coil.
Very useful this diagram that I found, because the one in the manual did not understand it.
thanks
Anyone know if these ribbon cables are interchangeable? One is a bit shorter, but if the terminal is the same -- should be fine. Not sure if the U terminals ever vary.
Out of Stock:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/036-5001-34
In Stock Possible Replacement:
Quoted from beepbeep:I recently picked up the new update 1.05 for my machine, I installed it and 2 prongs overlap as you can see in pic, i assume this isn't right. Can someone please confirm this is the right spot on board for update and if not where should it go?
Here is a video of me installing cpu/display in my JP...same procedure for you...just depends on if your display board takes 1 or 2 display roms.
Please subscribe! The new YouTube guidelines suck and all us little channels basically got fired 
PM me if you wanna do want to go up to 1.07... I can help
I picked up a DESW this past weekend as a surprise gift to my brother. I have a few weeks before he arrives so I'm working on repairs in the mean time. The most obvious issues are the broken yellow targets and various broken plastics. If anyone has any new or good used parts they can spare, I'd be happy to pay a fair price!
I've got a PinSound board on order and a v1.07 ROM on the way as I understand these to both significantly improve the game. If there are any other must-have mods, let me know!
Thanks!
Quoted from NoMonkey:If there are any other must-have mods, let me know!
Color DMD?
Quoted from TimberOne:I got my targets from marco. They are fair priced and quick ship.
Yeah, I had a look at Marco and they were sold out. I've now purchased just the target faces from Marco and will just rivet them to the switches.
Joined the club this last weekend. Picked it up off a friend who was a Star Wars collector. She just let it sit there, she's had it for over a decade. Played great but it was dirty! Its a reimport from Spain, so it's seen so usage at some point. Resoldered some switches and replaced some lamp diodes and she's almost 100%. Death Star and R2D2 both look great, although R2 needs a new motor.
First steps were NVram from Borygard and new code from
ChadH via
Meloyelo51
As usual, some broken yellow targets and plastics. Probably pick up just the target faces from Marco, thinking of going translucent red or yellow.
What's the best source for plastics since I missed the CPR run. PinballUniverse.com (USA) or Pinball.center (EU)?
So suddenly the following is happening - no pops or slingshots will trigger, death star gate keeps going up and down. Everything else works, and the DS gate triggers normally if you hit it while it is up.
This started when I was trying to adjust the leaf switch on the back pop bumper (which is a @#$& to reach. Not sure if I did something or it's coincidence. Looks like the power line to the pops and slingshots are one and the same...think I could have blown a fuse touching something by accident?
I'm in need of the plastic with Luke on it that the millennium falcon rivets to. If anyone has one, I'd be happy to pay a fair price!
Hi all! Just joined the club! Haven't had too much time to go through the game yet but first fixes I need to get the game playable are: No sound . Secondly It looks like I'm missing part of the gate assembly on the center ramp. The gate is only attached on one side. Can anyone send me a link to where I can buy a new post so I can get that gate working again? If anyone has any ideas on sound I'm all ears as well. I've checked connectors and fuses. Is there a sound chip that tends to go bad on this machine? Let me know! TIA
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:Hi all! Just joined the club! Haven't had too much time to go through the game yet but first fixes I need to get the game playable are: No sound
Welcome to the club!
There are 3 sound roms and I can help you if you need those burned or even updated CPU/Display code. They are listed in my pinside shop or you can PM me if you don't see them. Unfortunately, my expertise is in rom burning, not in board troubleshooting, so I am not much help to tell if that is indeed the problem or the only problem causing no sound.
Quoted from SLCpunk2113:Hi all! Just joined the club! Haven't had too much time to go through the game yet but first fixes I need to get the game playable are: No sound
I know this sounds like a dumb question, but have you tried the volume pot on the inside of the cabinet? It's on the right on top of the power box enclosure. If that's not it you should check to see if your soundboard is getting proper voltage.
Can someone list the correct screw type to use for the pop bumper caps, I'm missing a few on mine, and i'm not sure the others are correct as they're all different.
Thanks!
Quoted from pettcomputers:Can someone list the correct screw type to use for the pop bumper caps, I'm missing a few on mine, and i'm not sure the others are correct as they're all different.
Thanks!
If you have the correct hardware with the hex spacers raising the caps, it's a #4-40. I got some from Marco (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4004-01005-12)
Sadly a few of mine broke off in the hex spacers, which are unobtanium I think. I'm converting mine to regular Williams bumper caps, hopefully it'll be quieter as well.
Quoted from cabuford:If you have the correct hardware with the hex spacers raising the caps, it's a #4-40. I got some from Marco (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4004-01005-12)
Sadly a few of mine broke off in the hex spacers, which are unobtanium I think. I'm converting mine to regular Williams bumper caps, hopefully it'll be quieter as well.
Thanks for that quick reply! I've ordered a few.
Quoted from pettcomputers:Thanks for that quick reply! I've ordered a few.
I just spent a week creating an excel spreadsheet for parts to order for mine. I vowed to disassemble and research first, then order second
Quoted from DavidC:just leded my scoops
What lights did you use and how did you mount them? My only idea is a 3SMD Led strip taped on the bottom. I don't see anywhere else to stick a flex head or anything.
Quoted from Haggy38:That looks really cool, I love mine as well.....
Can you take some pics of the underside to show what you used and how you mounted them?
Quoted from cabuford:If you have the correct hardware with the hex spacers raising the caps, it's a #4-40. I got some from Marco (http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4004-01005-12)
Sadly a few of mine broke off in the hex spacers, which are unobtanium I think. I'm converting mine to regular Williams bumper caps, hopefully it'll be quieter as well.
This conversion is a thing??? Is it the whole shebang? Or just the cap? I must know! In operation the stock DE caps crack yearly
Quoted from Vader77:Experimenting with homemade side boards, outside of time and using the color copier at work I have about $1.50 invested per side for laminating (big spender).
Whatcha think?
I like these! I feel like my playfield is too tight for these. I'd be willing to try something DIY though. Care to send files via PM? Will a FedEx place print these or do they care about copyright? I'm not supposed to use the color printer at work
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:This conversion is a thing??? Is it the whole shebang? Or just the cap? I must know! In operation the stock DE caps crack yearly
What I did was replace the Hex spacers with a #6 nut, so you essentially have the same ring and rod as a normal assembly. The Pop bumper bodies still have the holes for regular caps, so I just bought some new Williams caps and 1/2" pop bumper screws from Pinball Life. I did replace the discs and got translucent bodies from Zitt but that shouldnt be necessary.
The only issue I noticed is that the bulb holder seems taller, and the cap wont fit with an incandescent bulb. My Comet order came yesterday and I'm putting in pop bumper discs anyway, so hopefully it'll all fit.
Quoted from cabuford:What I did was replace the Hex spacers with a #6 nut, so you essentially have the same ring and rod as a normal assembly. The Pop bumper bodies still have the holes for regular caps, so I just bought some new Williams caps and 1/2" pop bumper screws from Pinball Life. I did replace the discs and got translucent bodies from zitt but that shouldnt be necessary.
The only issue I noticed is that the bulb holder seems taller, and the cap wont fit with an incandescent bulb. My Comet order came yesterday and I'm putting in pop bumper discs anyway, so hopefully it'll all fit.
I used a taller hex spacer, led light and a black allen cap screw. I also have used urathane washers in many areas to keep from overtightening or loosening up over time.
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