Star Wars Data East Black Edition Decals
ebay.com link: Star Wars Data East Black Edition
The decals on the cabinet are from the Pinball Center
Star Wars Data East Black Edition Decals
ebay.com link: Star Wars Data East Black Edition
The decals on the cabinet are from the Pinball Center
Hey guys need some help. I have had Star Wars for ever and the 10 million light near the Sarralac pit has always been disconnected (I know I know I should have fixed this in the past). When I tried to hook it back up the light stays on constantly. I would assume this is a transistor problem on the board. Can anyone tell me where on the board is associated with this light? Everything else functions 100%.
Thanks and may the force be with you!!
Quoted from jorge5240:Hey guys need some help. I have had Star Wars for ever and the 10 million light near the Sarralac pit has always been disconnected (I know I know I should have fixed this in the past). When I tried to hook it back up the light stays on constantly. I would assume this is a transistor problem on the board. Can anyone tell me where on the board is associated with this light? Everything else functions 100%.
Thanks and may the force be with you!!
Check that the socket is wired correctly and the diode is right. I'm not sure it can cause your exact symptom, I have found tons of desw sockets wired wrong causing all kinds of chaos.
Quoted from jorge5240:Hey guys need some help. I have had Star Wars for ever and the 10 million light near the Sarralac pit has always been disconnected (I know I know I should have fixed this in the past). When I tried to hook it back up the light stays on constantly. I would assume this is a transistor problem on the board. Can anyone tell me where on the board is associated with this light? Everything else functions 100%.
Thanks and may the force be with you!!
Not likely a transistor on the driver board. If a lamp matrix transistor was at fault, you would have several lights stuck on.
Likely cause is incorrect wiring at the socket (wires swapped) or most likely a bad diode at that socket. My money is on a bad diode.
Quoted from tatman9999:Couple pics of my playfield back together
what bulbs do you have behind your words Star Wars ? I put in white LEDs and it looked crap and was to bright
Quoted from alistaircg:what bulbs do you have behind your words Star Wars ? I put in white LEDs and it looked crap and was to bright</blockquote
4 led cool white. From pinball life
Quoted from Schwaggs:Not likely a transistor on the driver board. If a lamp matrix transistor was at fault, you would have several lights stuck on.
Likely cause is incorrect wiring at the socket (wires swapped) or most likely a bad diode at that socket. My money is on a bad diode.
After more troubleshooting wouldn't you know it there are four bulbs out on that column. I did not get time to diagnose farther but I would assume at looking a three possibilities, had diode, wired incorrectly, break in wire.
Quick question does the issue have to be from the last lamp working to the first one not working or can the issue start "up stream"?
Thanks, Mike
Quoted from jorge5240:After more troubleshooting wouldn't you know it there are four bulbs out on that column. I did not get time to diagnose farther but I would assume at looking a three possibilities, had diode, wired incorrectly, break in wire.
Quick question does the issue have to be from the last lamp working to the first one not working or can the issue start "up stream"?
Thanks, Mike
The actual lamps and diodes up stream don't typically cause problems downstream. However, rows and columns are wired from one lamp to the next and so-on. So a break in this string upstream will certainly cause the downstream lamps to stop working. If you have some lamps working in a column or row but not others, that points to a break in this wiring chain. If ALL the lamps in a row or column are not working, that points to the driver board or connectors on the driver board.
Carefully check the operation of all the inserts in that column to verify if its wiring or board. If its wiring, its a simply matter of looking at the sockets of all the lamps in that column to find the break in the wire. The break is almost always at the connection on lamp sockets.
Repair question...I have a couple pop bumpers that are not working correctly when the ball hits them nothing happens....any adjustments that can me made or do I need to rebuild them or just fix a couple parts? Also it seems the force chute doesn't eject the ball when it should in some cases, then the machine goes into ball find mode can any one tell me what needs to fix here?
Quoted from beepbeep:Repair question...I have a couple pop bumpers that are not working correctly when the ball hits them nothing happens....any adjustments that can me made or do I need to rebuild them or just fix a couple parts? Also it seems the force chute doesn't eject the ball when it should in some cases, then the machine goes into ball find mode can any one tell me what needs to fix here?
Have a look at this thread. Might just need adjusting or cleaning.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/adjusting-pop-bumper-sensitivity
Quoted from Schwaggs:Lamps and diodes up stream don't typically cause problems downstream. However, rows and columns are wired from one lamp to the next and so-on. So a break in this string upstream will certainly cause the downstream lamps to stop working. If you have some lamps working in a column or row but not others, that points to a break in this wiring chain. If ALL the lamps in a row or column are not working, that points to the driver board or connectors on the driver board.
Carefully check the operation of all the inserts in that column to verify if its wiring or board. If its wiring, its a simply matter of looking at the sockets of all the lamps in that column to find the break in the wire. The break is almost always at the connection on lamp sockets.
It is the last four bulbs of a column so I know it it is wiring and not a board issue. Hoping to figure it out next week. I will report back when I find out the issue
Quoted from beepbeep:Repair question...I have a couple pop bumpers that are not working correctly when the ball hits them nothing happens....any adjustments that can me made or do I need to rebuild them or just fix a couple parts? Also it seems the force chute doesn't eject the ball when it should in some cases, then the machine goes into ball find mode can any one tell me what needs to fix here?
The force chute problem sounds like the switch (not the coil) that recognizes the ball has a broken wire or diode on it OR the switch needs adjusting. Make sure the wiring is secure and that the diode is still attached. I have had this issue before (on other games). Hope that helps.
Quoted from tatman9999:Here is a couple pics of my playfield after I clear coated it. Putting new plastics, new switches, posts, clear rubbers. Waiting on a few more parts. Got pinsound installed.
Wonderful job!!!
Quoted from DavidC:i don t know where thos one goes...
It doesn't go anywhere, it is free!
It was part of a cover over the right ramp
but it was not used. Data East realized with the open
ramp design the ball/balls were not going to get stuck.
Mostly jacking around with a GoPro I use for jetski stuff, I was curious to see if it would be a viable camera for recording pinball stuff.
A quick vid of my DESW taken yesterday. Reminds me I need to get those pingrafx replaced..
Does anyone have a spare sarlaac pit light assembly they'd like to sell? I've got the jabbas bounty plastic, but missing the light, wire, etc. Shoot me a pm if there's one out there
Quoted from rhettkun:Does anyone have a spare sarlaac pit light assembly
If you are handy, cut a piece of wood and drill a hole for the clear
plastic lens, then add the lamp socket on the back side of the wood
block. Finally, add an "L" bracket to the assembly and rivet it to the
main plastic assembly.
Quoted from DavidC:Hi guys,
I need some help, i purchased new plastic set from starship fantasy in Atown show and i don t know where thos one goes...
Help is appreciated
Thanks
this was asked two weeks ago, I have two machines and that piece in not in either of them , so nobody knows last i heard
Quoted from alistaircg:this was asked two weeks ago, I have two machines and that piece in not in either of them , so nobody knows last i heard
Hi Guys,
I need to replace cabinet woofer speaker, what type and wattage should I look? 8ohm or 4??
Regards,
Gustavo
Quoted from TimberOne:Gotta love extra parts. I had 2 pc left over from a nos set. I think it is from last minute changes. Someone commented a ramp plastic that is not needed.
I have left over crews often when i get carried away and forget how to put things back
Quoted from alistaircg:I have left over crews often when i get carried away and forget how to put things back
That is why I use my instant digital camera. It helps a lot
to go back and refresh your memory on how stuff went
back together.
Quoted from DavidC:Hi guys, im installing plastic set now, please tell me if i m correct for this plastic, there is another one fitting at this place... The second one was not on my original plastic set, maybe missing?
Thanks for your help
Finally get to join the club. Picked up a nice player on Saturday and been too busy having fun to post. Also my first dmd game. PF is in great shape, needs some plastics and a good number of bulbs are out though. Hopefully cpr does another run of plastics soon. Working on putting an led list together nowtoo. It came with the newest code on it and man did that make a difference in the game. Think I have her a hair steep yet cause the ramp shot is pretty slow. Some day Id like to restore her like some of the beauties I've seen in this thread! Sorry for the bad pictures it's pretty dark were it's setup.
ok so starting my first bit of troubleshooting before I place any orders. So Far R2s head does not turn at all and the death star rotates sometimes. Believe there is a relay that controls both motors. I'll be checking that soon, saw someone had bad solder joints on theirs cause a similar problem.
Grounding, there are 2 ground cables in the back box that I'm not sure where they are supposed to go. Logically it looks like they should connect to the dmd panel.
My speakers have a horrendous buzzing that I'm assuming is ground related but have read this is a common DE problem. I plan of putting in a pinsound board but don't want to fry a $350 board if it's electrical in nature.
Next item I'm a bit perplexed on is the force lamp. I swapped in a working 44 from GI. (the manual says all these bulbs are 555 and a bunch that ARE #555 star wars letters are listed as 89s so huh!?) Now the force lamp goes on and off as I'd expect during attract and between balls but seems to flicker. During game play after sinking force the lamp just dims a bit does not go out completely? Almost like it's ghosting but it's not an led? Dirty socket, diode maybe? I've only really worked on EMs so this is an adventure.
I have the manual downloaded from IPDB and I'm trying to dig through it. Anyone had similar before to save me some time ?
Thanks in advance
The grounds go to the metal frame on the dmd. Mine had sporatic death star and found the solder cracked on the relay to board, resoldered and perfect.
Quoted from visi0n:Mostly jacking around with a GoPro I use for jetski stuff, I was curious to see if it would be a viable camera for recording pinball stuff.
A quick vid of my DESW taken yesterday. Reminds me I need to get those pingrafx replaced..
» YouTube video
Quoted from Zarklin:ok so starting my first bit of troubleshooting before I place any orders. So Far R2s head does not turn at all and the death star rotates sometimes. Believe there is a relay that controls both motors. I'll be checking that soon, saw someone had bad solder joints on theirs cause a similar problem.
Grounding, there are 2 ground cables in the back box that I'm not sure where they are supposed to go. Logically it looks like they should connect to the dmd panel.My speakers have a horrendous buzzing that I'm assuming is ground related but have read this is a common DE problem. I plan of putting in a pinsound board but don't want to fry a $350 board if it's electrical in nature.
Next item I'm a bit perplexed on is the force lamp. I swapped in a working 44 from GI. (the manual says all these bulbs are 555 and a bunch that ARE #555 star wars letters are listed as 89s so huh!?) Now the force lamp goes on and off as I'd expect during attract and between balls but seems to flicker. During game play after sinking force the lamp just dims a bit does not go out completely? Almost like it's ghosting but it's not an led? Dirty socket, diode maybe? I've only really worked on EMs so this is an adventure.
I have the manual downloaded from IPDB and I'm trying to dig through it. Anyone had similar before to save me some time ?
Thanks in advance
I have the same buzzing, if I unplug the sound on the front speakers next to the DMD it goes away and the bottom speaker works. I cant find out how to get the buzz gone, it got worse when i put in a new rotten dog power board
help us Obi Wan pinball Kenobis
I heard of isolating the soundboard from the game.
Use plastic washers and shrink tubing on the threads of
the screws. Bally S&T boards have their own power supply
built onto the PCB in order to isolate it from the game.
Maybe someone can experiment with a separate power
supply that feeds only to the soundboard.
Data East did wrap the power supply harness to the DMD
on some of their games around a choke magnet.
Quoted from alistaircg:I have the same buzzing, if I unplug the sound on the front speakers next to the DMD it goes away and the bottom speaker works. I cant find out how to get the buzz gone, it got worse when i put in a new rotten dog power board
help us Obi Wan pinball Kenobis
Well hmm... I'm also running a rotten dog power supply. It's not too bad when playing but damn if I leave it sitting idle. Maybe the pinsound board should be my first upgrade.
On a side note I ordered my first batch of leds last night. Turns out a lot of bulbs I thought were burned out just weren't there. Still have no idea why the force lamp won't go out during gameplay. I put a spare bulb in the shooter lane for the 5 moon indicator and it's acting the same flickering and "ghosts" but it's not led. Have a bad feeling I'm going to be chasing lighting problems once I have all good bulbs in. Fingers crossed it's wiring and not board problems.
Quoted from Zarklin:Well hmm... I'm also running a rotten dog power supply. It's not too bad when playing but damn if I leave it sitting idle. Maybe the pinsound board should be my first upgrade.
On a side note I ordered my first batch of leds last night. Turns out a lot of bulbs I thought were burned out just weren't there. Still have no idea why the force lamp won't go out during gameplay. I put a spare bulb in the shooter lane for the 5 moon indicator and it's acting the same flickering and "ghosts" but it's not led. Have a bad feeling I'm going to be chasing lighting problems once I have all good bulbs in. Fingers crossed it's wiring and not board problems.
My DESW had buzzing with the stock board. Replaced with a Pinsound board and it works perfectly and zero buzzing.
So my lengthy reply disappeared when I hit post grr... lets try this again....
Quoted from TimberOne:I think the pinsound will fix the buzz. If you do LED you likely will need a OCD, I got terrible ghosting w/ led but the ocd fixed it all, looks awesome now.
Ordered, I was looking at those the other day wife gave the nod of approval today lol
Quoted from Schwaggs:My DESW had buzzing with the stock board. Replaced with a Pinsound board and it works perfectly and zero buzzing.
Good to know thanks. It'll be my next upgrade after I fix motors and lamps.
OK so I dug into the ghosting problems. These are NOT leds. Forgive me if this is an obvious fix I'm new to SS machines. I don't know if having a large number of burned out and missing lamps would cause this. Let me know if I should start at the transistors on the board or sockets and diodes.
Force lamp (47 Power scoop left) Ghosts on every row test lit correctly on row 7, does not ghost on any column test. Lit correctly on column 6. On individual lamp test it ghost with everything besides lamps in row 7 and columns 2 and 6.
Shooter lane (Launch 31) ghost on row 1,5,6 lit correct on row 7. Does not ghost on any column test, lit correct on column 4. Individual it ghost with every lamp in column 4.
Only did individual tests with the following
39 drop center ghosts with every lamp in it's column (5)
63 right bump ghost with every lamp in it's column (8)
23 DS tie ghosts with every lamp in it's column besides 17 (not used) and 18
48 scoop right ghosts with 56.
Visual aid of my trouble shooting
Starting to wonder if my good deal wasn't such a good deal. But we agreed this pin will never leave our house so I'm not too worried about it.
Thanks in advance.
Got the death star spinning again. Cold solders on the relay as suggested. Yay! I completed my first SS repair lol Think the motor might be on the way out as it shutters and has a slight grind sometimes. R2D2 is not spinning at all. Assuming if the DS is going I should look at the R2 motor next. EDIT. Yea has to be R2s motor. I swapped the lead from R2 to the DS motor and DS is still turning. Leads aren't long enough to go the other way but think this answers it.
Still chasing the lamp problem May post over on the tech forms I looked though all the under pf lamps and no diodes are broke or touching. Haven't taken an MM to them yet.
Quoted from wspy:Anyone preordered a SW playfield from CPR? I did but never heard back from CPR so I was wondering if it was "normal"... I also tried to contact their support but no reply either...
Normal. It'll be a bit before you hear anything. Usually playfield needs to be in the pipe and they're finalizing sales which could take months.
Quoted from Ed209:Normal. It'll be a bit before you hear anything. Usually playfield needs to be in the pipe and they're finalizing sales which could take months.
Alright, thanks for the reply. I was surprised I didn't even get a confirmation...
Started some of the led install. Liking it so far most are from nifty led. Need to repair the burnt back box gi connector, top half is very dim. Have a few not making connection and need to finish the gi. Led ocd should be here Thursday can't wait since I have a ton of ghosting now lol. I put purples in the ds but can hardly see them. Heard some folk paint the inside white to help. Considering that or lining it with reflective metal tape...
Quoted from Zarklin:Started some of the led install. Liking it so far most are from nifty led. Need to repair the burnt back box gi connector, top half is very dim. Have a few not making connection and need to finish the gi. Led ocd should be here Thursday can't wait since I have a ton of ghosting now lol. I put purples in the ds but can hardly see them. Heard some folk paint the inside white to help. Considering that or lining it with reflective metal tape...
I lightly sanded out the inside of my Death Star. The places where there are "seams" got thinner and show light through. Looks great. Very easy. Just go lightly.
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