Quoted from Spock:Exactly why I chose the LCD, more options and overall bolder and brighter. However, the LED still looks very nice.
Agreed. I love my led too.
Quoted from Spock:Exactly why I chose the LCD, more options and overall bolder and brighter. However, the LED still looks very nice.
Agreed. I love my led too.
Quoted from Spock:Exactly why I chose the LCD, more options and overall bolder and brighter. However, the LED still looks very nice.
Spock couldn't have said it any better himself !
Anyone know which transistor is responsible for triggering the solenoid that causes R2D2 to bounce up and down?
Hey guys, I went to level my desw and found the bottom of my legs so corroded that the feet were welded in! Gross. I'm wanting replacement legs that match. I found some at Marco but they were $100 for four and I wasn't sure they were a match. Anyone know of a modern part equivalent to match my black textured powder coat legs? I'm pretty sure they're original as they match the rest of the armor. Thanks!
Pinball life has "sega/stern" black legs for $47 a set. I have a sega Godzilla and the legs look the same but they could have been replaced before I got it. They look right but maybe call them and ask.
Just checked my DESW and the legs are 28 1/2" not 30 1/2" so the ones I told you above aren't right. The correct leg part number from the Star Wars manual is 535-5020-30.
Quoted from Freeplay40:New DE Star Trek 25 subway ramps now available. Info can be found here...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/freeplay40-ramps/page/14#post-3333986
Wrong thread
Quoted from comment23:So, it seems pretty impossible to find a decent backglass or death star toy anywhere right?
Not impossible. Managed to score a NOS translite and a nice used Death Star off of Ebay last year. I was checking almost everyday for over a year though.
Quoted from Ed209:Not impossible. Managed to score a NOS translite and a nice used Death Star off of Ebay last year. I was checking almost everyday for over a year though.
OK, I'll keep a look out. Thanks!
I thought I heard something about the Australian translites from Ebay not being very great (over-exposed,washed out colors).
Link here: ebay.com link: Star Wars Data East Pinball Machine Translite
Is that the case?
https://www.amazon.com/Star-Wars-Science-Death-Planetarium/dp/B00W1OL188/ref=sr_1_1
This has been used for the Death Star by some Pinsiders.
Throwing this out there for curiosity, anyone have a wiring harness laying around? I'm working with a friend on rebuilding a SW from two heavily routed machines. Both harnesses have been completely hacked to death. More electrical tape, wire nuts, in-line fuses added than I can almost take.
I'm toying with the idea on completely renovating this one or starting from scratch.
Ideas?
Keep your eye out for someone parting out a game on fleabay?
If you decide to make a new one (an insane thought!), check Bay Area Amusements for wire. They have a great selection of various colors with various colored tracers.
I would just take the best harness of the two you have, get some heat-shrink tubing and solder repair the wires and put new crimp on molex connectors on the IDC connectors that are melted or look loose.
Quoted from Schwaggs:Keep your eye out for someone parting out a game on fleabay?
If you decide to make a new one (an insane thought!), check Bay Area Amusements for wire. They have a great selection of various colors with various colored tracers.
An insane thought indeed! Thanks for the heads up on Bay Area amusements. I was just on Mouser looking around at AWG. I'll keep an eye out on ebay as well.
Quoted from Schwaggs:I would just take the best harness of the two you have, get some heat-shrink tubing and solder repair the wires and put new crimp on molex connectors on the IDC connectors that are melted or look loose.
You just nailed my current approach. Honestly though, most wire were cut from connectors, burned out, or completely missing. Much of the wire was literally hacked at certain places and severely shortened. It's a mess.
Hey guys, I'm at the hardware store and can't access my pin. Anyone know offhand what screws hold the pop bumper caps on ? Thanks!!
Quoted from paynemic:Hey guys, I'm at the hardware store and can't access my pin. Anyone know offhand what screws hold the pop bumper caps on ? Thanks!!
You can't buy pinball screws, nuts or bolts from the hardware store. It's all specific to pinball/coin-op. You will have to order them from a pinball parts supplier.
Buy them 100 at a time, they're about 2c each:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90272a113/=1454t34
Quoted from PeteB:You can't buy pinball screws, nuts or bolts from the hardware store. It's all specific to pinball/coin-op. You will have to order them from a pinball parts supplier.
I think you were kidding, weren't you?
Hey guys, im running unofficial code, and have a glitch during the skill shot on extraball only where the tie fighter isnt flying on the screen its just the crosshairs, but i can hear the tie fighter, again it's only on my extra ball. Anyone encounter this?
Quoted from wisefwumyogwave:Hey guys, im running unofficial code, and have a glitch during the skill shot on extraball only where the tie fighter isnt flying on the screen its just the crosshairs, but i can hear the tie fighter, again it's only on my extra ball. Anyone encounter this?
Use the force you must...
Not a glitch. This is part of the game.
Quoted from jyeakley:Use the force you must...
Not a glitch. This is part of the game.
Well son of bitch, thanks for calming the nerves.
Quoted from jyeakley:Use the force you must...
Not a glitch. This is part of the game.
Correct. When launching an extra ball you have to rely on using the Force to shoot the TIE Fighter.
Quoted from ChadH:Correct. When launching an extra ball you have to rely on using the Force to shoot the TIE Fighter.
And by using the force...he means pull the trigger the second you hear the tie fighter and your friends will think you have a complete and unseen connection to the force and to the pinball machine! Lol! You're a god damn genius. Your midiclorians are thru the roof. Welcome to the rebellion.
Getting back into the DESW club again.. The first multi-ball pin that I ever played, also the first pin I ever bought, I sold mine about 2 years ago to start chasing down other pins. Ironically, a game room re-organize is what led me back home to Star Wars..
Over the last couple of weeks we did a re-arrange of our basement gameroom area.
Timelapse:
When it was done, we ended up with this Star Wars area that was asking for a pin. I found a DESW, that was supposedly an original owner but hadn't been powered on in about 3 years. I fully expect some battery damage when it arrives and all sorts of other issues but It'll be okay, I'll get her whipped into shape this fall.
Planning mods for the game, I was thinking the illuminated flipper bats would be a nice homage to light sabers. Pricey but we'll see how it turns out. Going to send some parts off to be powder coated, so that'll be interesting. Pinsound + ColorLED will happen as well..
So, I was thinking on the inside rails and curious if you guys have any suggestions. I wanted something star-field-y, instead of mirror blades this go around. I didn't see any art blades from the usual places that fit what I was looking for but then I started daydreaming a little. So, Star Trek Premium / LE had a 'star field' that was the green laser put through a rotating lens / diffuser. That's neat but it is red (or green or blue with mods).
Seems like fiber optic pinpoint stars could be super neat (Like you'd see in a cheesy limo roof or cheesey bar, etc). While I'll mod the crap out of a game, I'm not really willing to drill 300 holes into the side of one, in fact I try to keep things 'reversible". I don't think there is room between the playfield rails and inside playfield to sandwhich an intermediate board with the fiber optic filaments, pretty sure the playfield will be too snug.
Any suggestions or clever ideas on clever ways to get a star field on the inside rail / blade area of the pin?
Hi
I would like to add a few LEDs to my DESW, I've no experience of doing this and don't have enough spare time to do a full LED conversion. Could anyone advise what type of LED bulb I need for the following? I've done a search but found varying answers.
Blue LED inside R2-D2
Yellow LED behind C3PO eyes
Purple LED around deathstar
Green LED behind Yoda on backglass
Blue LED behind deathstar on backglass
They are the main ones I want to start with, but if there are any that I should definately add let me know!
Thanks
Scratching my head on this one...my flashers in the pop bumper area aren't working. Orange and black/grey are the wires. Bulbs are good, and I can check connectivity on the orange lines to other orange areas and they are good. Any suggestions where I should be checking this?
Quoted from RDReynolds:Scratching my head on this one...my flashers in the pop bumper area aren't working. Orange and black/grey are the wires. Bulbs are good, and I can check connectivity on the orange lines to other orange areas and they are good. Any suggestions where I should be checking this?
Which game?
Anyone ever consider a mod to make the pop caps less susceptible to cracking? They take a beating -- 1 year in and the one I operate already needs 4 new caps. Thinking about foam or rubber somewhere...
Quoted from DANGERTERROR:Anyone ever consider a mod to make the pop caps less susceptible to cracking? They take a beating -- 1 year in and the one I operate already needs 4 new caps. Thinking about foam or rubber somewhere...
Rubber grommets at both the top and bottom of where the screw touches the caps?
Quoted from RDReynolds:Ummmm...Data East Star Wars?
Sorry, I guess I was not reading the topic.
Did you check the PPB for cracked solder joints at J1 and J9?
The lights are routed through a resistor (large ceramic) and could be broken.
Also the link between the MPU and the PPB could be bad.
Does the knocker work?
On my website is a Tech Chart with a lot of information collected from the manual.
This leads to 8L (knocker) and 8R (flashers) being driven by Q39 on the MPU.
Quoted from Inkochnito:Sorry, I guess I was not reading the topic.
Did you check the PPB for cracked solder joints at J1 and J9?
The lights are routed through a resistor (large ceramic) and could be broken.
Also the link between the MPU and the PPB could be bad.
Does the knocker work?
On my website is a Tech Chart with a lot of information collected from the manual.
This leads to 8L (knocker) and 8R (flashers) being driven by Q39 on the MPU.
Excellent, thank you so much! I will give that a look see and see what I can find. Thank you!
So I have an interesting issue with a SW that I am working on...
I've had to replace the Power Supply board with a new RottenDog board because the game came with no PS board.
I had to replace CN1, CN5 (on PS) and J5 (on PPB) as they were all burned out.
Interestingly, on the TPs on the new PS board, I'm getting some really off spec voltages.
+68 vdc TP = +82 vdc
+12 vdc TP = +18 vdc
-12 vdc = shorted/dead
All other TPs were in a normal range.
I did make sure that the xmfr is wired for 115v and I've done all fuse checks as well. Anyone have an idea on the best place to even look?
For the -12 vdc, I'm assuming a connectivity check is the first place to look. Since things had be re-pinned, it could be a bad connection. However, I'm not really sure on the off spec voltages. I did do some readings that other people have had issues with the VRs on the RD boards.
I just installed the ColorDMD LED display in my DESW. I had a polarized glare guard (http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2212) installed with my old DMD and left it in when I installed the color LED display. It looks really good and there is no glare. The color LED is a nice upgrade. I wish they had the color ROM for JP.
Hey guys, here's a couple questions that have me stumped.
My friend's desw has the "X-mode" lamp out. I changed bulbs, checked solder joints, etc. all good. I went to check it on the matrix and can't find it? I would have thought it would be in row 1 Column 2 (based on the order of stuff) but it's blanked out. Am I missing something obvious?
Also, the top half of his back glass lighting is all out. Doesn't seem to be a bulb problem as we swapped a few known working. See pic. I checked all the fuses I could see and didn't get any obvious problems. Any thoughts?
Paynemic - I had the same issue with my back glass lighting - I found a bad connection in a connector that feeds the lighting. If memory is correct, there's a Z connector in line with the voltage feeds. I ended up redoing a pin on one of the connectors that used the Z.
Not sure about your X mode lights, but I would go from the light to the power source, and check every pin for voltage. Likely you have a connector issue.
Good Luck
Quoted from Inkochnito:Sorry, I guess I was not reading the topic.
Did you check the PPB for cracked solder joints at J1 and J9?
The lights are routed through a resistor (large ceramic) and could be broken.
Also the link between the MPU and the PPB could be bad.
Does the knocker work?
On my website is a Tech Chart with a lot of information collected from the manual.
This leads to 8L (knocker) and 8R (flashers) being driven by Q39 on the MPU.
I do not have a knocker on this machine....so can't tell on that. I tested the connection, and that showed connectivity to the backbox at J9. So guessing it must be an issue on the PPB. Don't see anything blatantly wrong with it though...prob time to send them to John Wart for a check up.
Quoted from Billc479:Paynemic - I had the same issue with my back glass lighting - I found a bad connection in a connector that feeds the lighting. If memory is correct, there's a Z connector in line with the voltage feeds. I ended up redoing a pin on one of the connectors that used the Z.
Not sure about your X mode lights, but I would go from the light to the power source, and check every pin for voltage. Likely you have a connector issue.
Good Luck
Thanks for the tips. Can you or anyone tell me what a z-connector is? I'm still learning...
The X-mode light has me confused just because I can't find it on the lamp matrix at all! Anyone else have thoughts?
I was messing around with my DESW last night to see the screens on my new color DMD and realized that the game is spotting me death star hits between balls (i.e., it advances to 3or 4 moons and gives the "death star approaching" callout at the start of ball 2, and then advances to enough moons to drop the death star target at the start of ball 3). Is there a setting for this? I do not recall it doing this in the past and I do not believe I changed any settings. I looked briefly for a setting last night but did not find one.
I definitely have a switch problem as it is regisering points with about every 3rd hit of the left flipper button. Accordingly, I am not sure at this point if the advance of the moons on the death star is from false switch registers or a setting.
Quoted from rviguet:I was messing around with my DESW last night to see the screens on my new color DMD and realized that the game is spotting me death star hits between balls (i.e., it advances to 3or 4 moons and gives the "death star approaching" callout at the start of ball 2, and then advances to enough moons to drop the death star target at the start of ball 3). Is there a setting for this? I do not recall it doing this in the past and I do not believe I changed any settings. I looked briefly for a setting last night but did not find one.
I definitely have a switch problem as it is regisering points with about every 3rd hit of the left flipper button. Accordingly, I am not sure at this point if the advance of the moons on the death star is from false switch registers or a setting.
You running v.1.06? If so...
Adjustment 46 (Spot Death Star Moon) has been modified. Hard will now only spot one moon per ball. Hard and Factory will no longer guarantee all eight moons on Ball 3. This allows the player to better customize the game to their expertise.
New Spot Death Star Moon behavior:
Extra Hard (Never spot moon)
Ball 1 = X O O O O O O O
Ball 2 = X O O O O O O O
Ball 3 = X O O O O O O O
Hard (Spot 1 moon, after Tri-ball spot 0 moon) - This is default
Ball 1 = X X O O O O O O
Ball 2 = X X X O O O O O
Ball 3 = X X X X O O O O
Factory (Spot 2 moon, after Tri-ball spot 1 moon)
Ball 1 = X X X O O O O O
Ball 2 = X X X X X O O O
Ball 3 = X X X X X X X O
Easy (Spot 2 moon, guarantee all moons spotted on ball 3, after Tri-ball spot 1 moon)
Ball 1 = X X X O O O O O
Ball 2 = X X X X X O O O
Ball 3 = X X X X X X X X
Extra Easy (Spot 4 moon, guarantee all moons spotted on ball 2, after Tri-ball spot 2 moon)
Ball 1 = X X X X X O O O
Ball 2 = X X X X X X X X
Ball 3 = X X X X X X X X
Thanks ChadH. Yes, I am running your 1.06 code. I don't remember seeing the option for spot death star moon last night when I looked. I will look again tonight. The odd thing is, I don't remember it giving me the open shot on the death star on the 3rd ball before (after 1.06 code update was installed) and I don't recall changing any settings.
Paynemic - Refer to some of my earlier posts in this thread addressing the same back box lighting problem. There's a picture of a Z connector.
As far as the X wing lights - are you referring to the flashers behind the square targets? There's regular GI lighting and flashers. Check the bulbs on the flashers - I thought I read somewhere that there are issues with flasher bulbs if too many of them are burned out. (Caution - I may be remembering something different that is not applicable to this machine.)
Run a flasher light test in diagnostics.
Can someone with the colordmd please post some more video? I really wanna see the Death Star opening and explosion sequences. And a few other things
Quoted from Billc479:Paynemic - Refer to some of my earlier posts in this thread addressing the same back box lighting problem. There's a picture of a Z connector.
As far as the X wing lights - are you referring to the flashers behind the square targets? There's regular GI lighting and flashers. Check the bulbs on the flashers - I thought I read somewhere that there are issues with flasher bulbs if too many of them are burned out. (Caution - I may be remembering something different that is not applicable to this machine.)
Run a flasher light test in diagnostics.
Thanks again for taking time to respond!! Im taking about the insert above the yoda and extra ball. It's labeled x-mode (but it is really speeder mode). I can't find it on the lamp matrix! Thanks again.
Quoted from Weed_of_Crime:Can someone with the colordmd please post some more video? I really wanna see the Death Star opening and explosion sequences. And a few other things
Me too. Debating on getting one of these.
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