That's sweet. Now, where do I get one of those power bricks?
(Topic ID: 24704)
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Adventures of Rocky and Bullwinkle and Friends, The
Data East, 1993-
Batman
Data East, 1991
-
Jurassic Park
Data East, 1993
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Last Action Hero
Data East, 1993
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Lethal Weapon 3
Data East, 1992
-
Maverick
Data East, 1994
-
Phantom of the Opera
Data East, 1990
-
Playboy 35th Anniversary
Data East, 1989
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Quoted from wayout440:Looks like Newark carries them. We have bought many from Arrow distributing. Any model 40W or greater with +5, +12, and -12 outputs will work. The exact model I am using is a discontinued model scrapped from old product, but there are new versions out there.
http://www.newark.com/artesyn-embedded-technologies/lpt43/ac-dc-open-frame-power-supply/dp/23M6705?mckv=oX4uSj7Z&gross_price=true&CATCI=pla-148797591141&CAAGID=20376568461&CMP=KNC-GUSA-GEN-SHOPPING-23M6705&CAGPSPN=pla&gclid=CLfImZ7ymtMCFYNKXgod4CQC9A&DM_PersistentCookieCreated=true&CAWELAID=120185550002950529
Thanks!!!
1 month later
Quoted from Antennaejim:Grabbed one off eBay just search for 40w open frame power supply. Make sure it has outputs +5v, +12v, -12v. Then make your own 6 terminal harness to connect to your sound board from your new aux power and a 3 terminal plug from your main power switch under the cabinet and neutral as stated earlier in this thread. There is currently some for $15 shipped to your door in the US! That's the one I got works great.
Just ordered one 
. Should get here before next weekend. So I know what I will be doing next weekend.
1 week later
Quoted from wayout440:The Artesyn power supply, mounted to the right side of the backbox near the sound board. It is mounted with 1" screws and 1/4" nylon standoffs. The incoming AC power is wired to the switched side of the AC power switch. The connectors are Molex with Trifurcon pins for reliability.
What size are those Molex connectors? 0.156, 0.1, or 0,093? I believe the original IDC on the soundboard is .0156. Did you use 22 ga. wire?
Quoted from wayout440:Molex are 0.156, same pin spacing as the original IDCs. 18AWG wire.
Thank you.
2 weeks later
So I wanted to do it right and instead of using wire nuts, I decided to solder it onto the actual switch.....big mistake. Old wires came off well, it they don't even appear to be copper, or they are crazy oxidized. Even cut them a bit shorter same thing. The wire strings feel like flower wire. No solder sticks to them....anybody any idea?
I am ready to solder new wire onto the switch lug and crimp the rest at this point.
Also, if anybody has a good recommendation for an affordable molex crimping tool? I bought a cheap one from frys and it is pretty much useless. To wide to fit over the crimping portion only.
2 weeks later
Finally got to install the dedicated powder supply. No go. Still have the same humming/buzzing sound. Funny as is, and I should have tried this before; when I disconnect the sound board, the noise is still there.
When I disconnect the display it is gone though. Any thoughts?
More info. Noise is coming mostly from the sub, which seems to be following the lights of the playfield.
Just realized, exact same as Ive's issue.
Quoted from Ive:...
Even more likely, you could be taking about the famous lamp matrix noise on a Data East machine that you will hear during attract mode, that will vary as the lamp patterns change. If your game has the large capacitor mounted in the backbox next to the bridge rectifiers, then replacing that will help with the lamp matrix noise. "
Exactly this. I just have no idea what a bridge rectifier is. Mine is a Last Action Hero.
Quoted from LOTR_breath:See the big blue cap in the bottom left corner? Look just above and to the right. See the row of fuses? The bridge rectifier is the perfectly square component just to the right of the fuses.
Ok, stupides question. What do I replace it with?
3 years later
1 month later
Quoted from ChanceKJ:Getting closer…
Sorry for the delays, final boards have been ordered (they look bad ass!). Pricing and availability will be announced very soon. There will definitely be enough to go around. Here’s a teaser for you… [quoted image][quoted image]
Sweet....definitely getting in line for one of those
2 weeks later
1 week later
Quoted from ChanceKJ:But what are the chances of that happening? Haha! ☺️
495,000/1
1 week later
Quoted from Shogun00:Sweet! I can't wait to get my hands on one.
My LAH can't wait for the chip to get inside of it .
2 weeks later
2 months later
Quoted from Gotfrogs:My order shipped today. I just got the tracking number!!
Screenshot_20211129-235633_Samsung Internet (resized).jpg 2 months later
So I finally got to install my Retro Noise Filter. Nothing good to report here. Actually quite bad. The moment I install the filter, my display goes dead. Won't show anything at all. Take the filter out and display is up and running again. Really weird. Anyone any idea?
Quoted from radial_head:Which game are you running it on?
Last Action Hero Data East
Quoted from ChanceKJ:Thats a new one completely. Might want to check your voltages with and without the board and report back. With how simple the board is in its operation, it sounds like your game has a pre-existing condition. Might want to also think about rebuilding your power supply.
Wouldn't be fun if there aren't new challenges
@ +12V: 12.35
@ -12V: -15.98V
@ +5V: 4.85V
Same voltage with or without the noise filter, plus minus 0.05V
I'll check them. Don't think the 5V is low. I tried it with a dedicated PSU as well. Clean 5.05. same results.
Quoted from NYP:I've worked on and sold enough new Data East games to confidently say, they did not hum like this when they were new.
Proofs that DE is more human than we thought. We older people tend to make weird noises as well
Quoted from ChanceKJ:5v wouldn’t be a thing on our board anyways, its only working with the +12v. All the other pins are pass thru.
Update.... and this is one of those shameful ones.
Turns out it wasn't the filter. Just based on the filter extending off the board a bit further, the ribbon cable got pressed weirdly against the back of the DMD which caused the issue ♂️. No filter, ribbon cable free = working, lol. So I just placed the cable different to not be squeezed and the filter performs as expected.
Still humming, but a lot less. It reduces the hum about the exact same amount as a dedicated PSU.
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