Quoted from wayout440:

This is the only solution so far that has produced favorable results. Not floating the sound board, not replacing caps, not disconnecting braided grounds on speakers. Running the sound board off a separate supply reduces noise dramatically. I assume this is mostly because of the replacement supply has a much cleaner regulated DC power, as well as eliminating ground loop. I used an open frame Artesyn supply. It's 40W and has no fan, we used it in some of our older pro audio products.
I just have to mount it permanently, I'll try to get pics once it's done.

Quoted from Antennaejim:

The wiring will vary according to the diagram print for the power supply. Same thing with your sound board. The soundboard will Have the voltages printed on the board next to the pin layout as posted earlier in this thread. Just match them up. Here's mine it may look different than yours however.

Quoted from Antennaejim:

Are you testing to a grounded source?

Quoted from wayout440:

You have to check the aux supply using it's own ground pin on it's output pins. The point of the supply being isolated in the first place. If you are using an Artesyn regulated supply as
I recomended , you can check the +5,. +12, and -12vdc before even plugging in to the games sound board. It's what you should do anyway to make certain your wiring is correct

Quoted from Antennaejim:

Can you post a picture of your installation so we can take a look and maybe help further?

Quoted from metalkatt:

This is what I installed to replace mine.
http://home.kpn.nl/p.koch3/bridge_board.htm

Quoted from metalkatt:

This is what I installed to replace mine.
http://home.kpn.nl/p.koch3/bridge_board.htm

Quoted from pinball419:

Game: The Who's Tommy Pinball Wizard

Back to my initial question is it the isolation, grounding loops? or is it cleaner voltage? From all(nearly)500 posts, no one seems to have a consistent solution(other than power supply).

Quoted from wpmcnamara:

I
My machine has an XPin wms8345 power board in place of the original Data East power board. This will actually exacerbate the hum (makes it louder), though I would fully expect it to be there at a lower level with the original Data East power board.

Quoted from Robotworkshop:

There seem to be at least 3 sources of noise on the Data East machines. Noise with DMD activity, noise from the controlled lamps, and general noise some from the power. Some games are worse then others. In attract mode when the machine is supposed to be quiet you can often hear when the controlled lights are moving.
I need to do some testing to see how much is generated on the MPU board. I have one MPU when in a game things are relatively quiet. Have another MPU when installed there is excess noise.
If any caps are bad then for sure re capping will help and in some cases may fix it. I just think there are other factors involved that hasn’t been isolated yet.

Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

Not to sound like a broken record because this was said before (but lost in the abyss of 500+ previous posts) but the easiest solution seems to be a standalone power supply for the soundboard. Inexpensive and pretty easy to install and cuts out the hum entirely. It did for me anyways.

Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

This is probably unrelated but I had horrible hum on a Space Shuttle I picked up last year. Everything worked for the most part except for a faulty wire harness to the display logic. I attributed the hum to worn out caps. I had to remove the MPU/Driver board to replace a bad header pin connector. This required removing every wire harness from the MPU/Driver board. I cleaned all the male header pins with electronics cleaner before plugging the wire harnesses back in. After this the speaker hum vanished. So whatever was causing the hum was apparently from poor wire connectivity, probably from the PF lamps, since the humming would strobe and oscillate in lockstep with the playfield lighting sequence. Lesson here is you may want to check quality of the header pins and wire harnesses elsewhere on the MPU board, displays, etc, in places that would be seemingly unrelated to sound/speakers.

Quoted from freddy:

Ok found this data sheet
[quoted image]

Quoted from crassmage:

Have and wiring pics? Is any current wiring used or is it all new? Where does the power source tap into? Thanks, I ordered the one from previous link(thanks for that)

Quoted from crassmage:

Pics would be great? So is it just the 2 wires?

Quoted from pb456:

Dumb question - how did you wire up the Meanwell? I have a LAH that's getting unbearable. I'll clean up and reflow connectors/header pins, but am really interested in a fix especially if it's cheap.

Quoted from PinballGiant:

Just wanted to add my two cents on fixing the speaker hum. My strategy was based off of wpmcnamara's previous posts. Got rid of the majority of the hum for about $30. Here is a video explaining what I did and the before and after. In short, I just added a 12V buck boost converter on the +12V to the sound board and had great results. Cleaner and cheaper than an entirely separate power supply and plug and play after you build it. Here are some pics too.

[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Hollywoodbone:

Has any one tried replacing the whole sound board with a pinsound? Was going to try it to see if it worked!

Quoted from ChanceKJ:

Yep, in fact we’ve been using my R&B to test them all.
I’ll be posting a link here soon for you to buy them. Keep an eye here.

Quoted from ChanceKJ:

https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-noisehum-filter.html
However the link is down as PL seems to have deactivated it after selling out their stock last time. So I can’t guarantee it will be the same one.
Production of them starts this weekend, plus time to ship, plus however long it will take PL to list them to the site.
Here’s the video as a refresher.