Success !!!! I fitted one of these bad boys to a Tommy and the loud constant hum from the right speaker has gone ! Thanks NYP for posting about it

I still get the lights buzz noise , rising and falling with the controlled lamps that is noticeable in attract mode. But I can live with that.

A couple of years ago I tried an aux supply, different make, and it didn't make a difference. Strange. Maybe the spec wasn't quite right or something.

Have and wiring pics? Is any current wiring used or is it all new? Where does the power source tap into? Thanks, I ordered the one from previous link(thanks for that)

I tapped into the mains power in the switch box. Added connectors to the black and white after the switch. Run this to the the aux power unit. Then make up a new length of cable with molex connector to run to the sound board. If I get a chance later I'll take couple pics.

At the moment I have the aux power supply in the backbox. Now thinking I'd prefer to have it down in the main cab and run a longer length of cable up to the board.

The only thing I don't like about the Mean Well unit is that the terminals are uncovered - meaning you have a bare touch point with live mains power when the machine is switched on - 230v here in the UK . I will make up a cover for safety and peace of mind.

Pics would be great? So is it just the 2 wires?

Someone uploaded this - its on a DE Robocop but its exactly the same principle.

OK - I got rid of the loud speaker hum by installing an aux power supply.

I still though have a constant static hiss / 'shhhhhhhh' through the speakers - not noticeable in gameplay of course but I can hear it with the game sat in attract mode.

Any thoughts on that ?? before I wade through this entire thread again

Thank you kind sir..

Dumb question - how did you wire up the Meanwell? I have a LAH that's getting unbearable. I'll clean up and reflow connectors/header pins, but am really interested in a fix especially if it's cheap.

See the video link I posted above (not my video)....its on a Robocop and different power supply unit but exactly the same principle. post #555

I'm pretty sure that is just the general quality of the amplifiers on the sound board. I'm guessing that would be nearly impossible to get rid of. It's the same thing on my TFTC.

I found a place in the backbox to mount the power supply. I disconnected the power plug to the sound board and tucked it away and made up a new harness with connectors to go from the power supply to the power in to the sound board. I like to do things like this reversible so things can be put back the way they were and not permanently cut alter or hack the existing wiring harness. It's best if you try to use color correct wires when making up the harness, black for ground, red for +5 etc. Then I took 2 longer wires for the 110 ( black & white ) and ran them down through into the bottom cabinet and tapped off the 110 from the transformer. I checked to make sure it was switched so it goes on and off with the power switch. All wires neatly zip tied or tucked into the cable clamps so it looks factory.

Just wanted to add my two cents on fixing the speaker hum. My strategy was based off of @wpmcnamara's previous posts. Got rid of the majority of the hum for about $30. Here is a video explaining what I did and the before and after. In short, I just added a 12V buck boost converter on the +12V to the sound board and had great results. Cleaner and cheaper than an entirely separate power supply and plug and play after you build it. Here are some pics too.

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Nice. That's the scale of mod with which I'd be happy on my rarely played JP (vs separate pwr supply). Where'd you buy that?

Made it myself:
6-pin z connector
2 female 6-pin 0.156 molex connectors with trifurcon pins from pinball life
Buck/boost converter from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NTXSJHB/)
ABS plastic project box off amazon
18 or 20 gauge wire

If you make another, I'd buy one from you for sure.

Thanks for posting that !

I have used a seperate power supply with success but will certainly give this a go - a much cleaner solution.

gave this a go on my LW3 but only lowered the hum by about 20% I did notice my machine appears to have the rottendog board which people says this hum far worse so might be why I did not have much luck. Also tried the floating audio board which did nothing as well.

I have ordered parts for the psu fix now as this will give the audio board 100% clean voltage not just the +12v line so hopefully have better results

If any one wants this give me a shout will post out if you can cover the £5 shipping

It does work just not very well in my situation (due to new power board I suspect)

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Which country are you from? I could be interested. I am from Denmark myself.

I’m sorry it didn’t work for you. Definitely not my intention to share something that doesn’t work. It’s weird because I have a rottendog board too. I still have some hum but this got it down to a very tolerable level. Will be interested to see if the separate power supply totally fixes it or if there’s something on the sound board contributing too.

No worries at all buddy every machine is different the floating did absolutely nothing for me either (and did fix others) I must just have a very fussy machine

I will report back with results of the PSU fix

UK, pm me your address and I’ll pop it in the post

Stuck one of these in https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/RPT-60B?qs=V9a8iPeg90y32GHaWpmkvA%3D%3D and the hum has dropped about 90% far far better I think in my situation I just needed total isolation of the power supply to get rid of all the Nasty interference.

My Last Action Hero has some serious speaker hum, so going to attempt this same fix of installing a dedicated PSU. Just ordered a Mean Well RT-50B (from Mouser), and the 6 pin molex connector below. Hoping it's a workable shortcut to creating my own connector.

ebay.com link: 6 Pin Rgb Monitor Video Cable Only Arcade game Part B62

About $40 total in parts (already having cable to run power to the PSU). Will report back with results in after it's been installed.

boys as they are.
I tell them that I HOOK makes a disgusting noise ...
now if I disconnect the 3 speakers the noise goes away automatically.
I tried to put plastic washers on the sound board and it didn't work.
I just put them inside.
I do not change anything ...
I am sure it is a mass problem.
But I don't know what to touch anymore.

HELP.
GREETINGS FROM ARGENTINA.

Huge improvement to Last Action Hero speaker HUM with the Meanwell RT-50B!! Highly Recommended upgrade to those with sound issues. Here's a quick overview of terminal labels on this model. It is literally written on the side, but took me a moment to locate:

Terminal labels:
V3 = -12v
+V2 = +12V
COM = Ground (don't use the dedicated ground, which I did at first and didn't get any sound initially)
+5V = 5V

Also, the 6-pin connector from eBay made this a very simple install. Highly recommended shortcut.

I already have everything! Let's try it! If I solve the problem ... then I count .

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I tried, but it didn't change anything.
I ended up taking it out.
Thanks to the user PinballGiant you helped me a lot .. I appreciate it ... but I'll keep going ..
my hook only has this detail.
I will try to solve it with a technician.
It's a pity I can't put a pinball pro kit on my TERMINATOR 2 that I don't use because it's not worth it.

Greetings from Argentina!

Hi guys! Someone tried this? Will it be the capacitor?
Give me feedback!

Thanks Alex!

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I tell them that today I adjusted the screws of the trafo and subwoofer and improved a lot ... the noise continues but much less.
we will go on !!!

Has any one tried replacing the whole sound board with a pinsound? Was going to try it to see if it worked!

Hello friend ... many say that changing the board lowers the noise but does not cancel it completely .
Others say that with some pinball pro kits it was solved.
Others put a dedicated sound source...
But you have to have a solution to make it original.
Mine (hook) makes a lot of noise to interference.
After an hour the noise is very low but it is there ... I am still waiting for a real and original solution.

Hug Alex!

Using separate RPT-60B appears to be best solution here, plastic washers did not work for me neither did the buck converter. But the RPT-60B fixed it

I had a LAH that I put a pinsound in. Sound was excellent at that point. No more buzz.

Good friend
I will try what you mention.
1 . Can you publish photos ?
2. How do you connect ?
3. When connecting you must program voltage to 12v ? As we did in the other module ?
4. If you publish photos I will guide your project

You say that under the noise, but I don't get it out. I read this from a comment
That's right.
One thing is the noise of the speakers.
Another is the DMD screen noise (this noise doesn't bother me)

If you help me, I will do it.

We can do it!

Alex !

Give me a few days I’ll take photos of my install

I believe it does sort it out. I have a friend with Pinsounds in his Star Wars, Guns and Tommy

Excellent. Thank you

This is how I see how everything is connected.
I saw that you tried the other module and it didn't work.
The same thing happened to me.
If you look here in the forum I uploaded photos.
What I most want to see is how the cables are connected to the new module and the sound board.

This new module has to be encoded for 12v ? Or is it automatic?
Is it connected like the other module?

I am not a very expert but with pictures I encourage myself to try it.
I'm waiting for your pictures .

Thank you, my friend.

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Hi Greg, yes it does
I have a pinsound in my JP with the original DE sleakers and no more humms or buzzzes
Also the original mix sounds mutch better, and all reorchestrations are very cool!
You can also make your own sounds play

Specialy JP is Epic
I have the egg mode playing gnr welcome to the jungle i.e.

And you can switch between mixes!

Don’t plug this into your audio board without setting the 12v output as can range from like 5 to 18 depending on the pot. Plug into game power first and using meter adjust until you get 12v before you plug audio board in

I think reason it did not work for me is only the 12v is being sort of isolated, the other 3 lines just pass straight through so could carrying the interference.

Just ordered a pair of buck boosters this morning for experimenting. I have one or two DE pins that have speaker hum but in all honesty not enough to bother me but worth trying this out for the cost.

Sorry for delay, here is photo of my install which works great

Basically unplug the old audio power connector then give the new psu AC in then power your audio board using the psu out (gnd,5v,12v,-12v)

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Just did mine on a Playboy that was LOUD. You knew the machine was on when you were in the room loud, the loudest DE I have ever owned.

Now? The thing is so quiet is flipping eerie! Unless you have an ear within a foot or two of the speaker you can't tell its running.

Best. D.E. Mod. Ever.

I'll post a video shortly.

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Video up!

I have had my phantom for 15+ years and tried everything. It was so loud that I could never leave it running, unless I was playing it.
Did the buck converter mod and it is super quiet now, almost like a new game

Can somebody make a kit for this? I'd gladly pay $60 for the quick fix.

Hello friends, I ask you again on this subject.
For me.
It is not a problem of plates .
For me the topic is in the potentiometer or filter emitted. There in that sector is the topic.
Did anything change both of them?
My hook was noisy but then it was unbearable.
The machine without playing just makes the noise to DMD doesn't bother me. But when playing it makes explosions, you can make all kinds of noises.
I changed the fuse holder and improved it . That's why I say that this can be the issue .
If anyone wants to comment I'm all ears !
Greetings from Argentina

If your interested in one drop me a note.

I have enough parts for 8 more, doubtful if I'm going to make more after that as this was just a little side project and I'm told by a vendor z-connectors are not being restocked as the manufacturer has gone out of business.

These are plug and play: Molex connectors with key pin in place, z-connector, Trifurcon heavy duty contacts (because overkill) set for 12 volts on the dot and tested in my noisiest pin Playboy for an hour.

This should work in just about every Data East except the first two pins (Laser War and Torpedo Alley) with very early sound boards. The voltages look a little different and I need to double check first.

Gary

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