I am picking up a Simpsons tomorrow and did not see a club so I thought I would start one. Tell me the good and the bad.
I am picking up a Simpsons tomorrow and did not see a club so I thought I would start one. Tell me the good and the bad.
Quoted from C_Presley:Hey lambertville! Just put mine on location in Toledo.
where at?
Can anyone tell me how many buttons the service switches should have? Mine has 2 and I cannot get it into free play
I have one and my family really enjoys it. The code on it really needs a rework. Some of the bad that could be changed.
The nuclear power value is a great combo shot but just not worth enough to go after it. I would double the starting value.
In multiball there is nothing to do after you claim the jackpot. I would like to see the ability to relight the jackpot by knocking down the bowling pins again.
In multiball the jackpot builds slowly when you are not holding the flippers. I would like to see the jackpot build in increments of 500,000 by hitting any of the 3 lock shots. This would bring much more skill and strategy to multiball.
Currently the special can only be changed to award credit or an extra ball. Hitting down the 5 bank drop targets 3 times and then hitting the spinner to the lock shot collects the special. I would change the special to points and have it award 2 million. It has to be worth more than the millions ramp.
Chad has done some code rewrites to many data east games, I’d love to see him do this to the simpsons. It’s such an immersive theme that struggles because of super unbalanced scoring.
A lot of people knock the repetitive looping on the main ramp for the millions mode, but I don’t mind looping ramps and going for the loop back champ is fun. It’s just that currently with other shots being worth so much less it doesn’t make much sense to shoot for other things if you are strictly going for a high score. Bringing the other shots up to par would balance it better. In the past I thought using the ice cream targets to build the millions would be a good idea and that could still work but I prefer the loops.
Looking to replace the cooling towers on my Simpsons but would have a easier time finding Atlantis. Anyone know if tspp towers will work as replacements?
Does anyone know about a spring that might go where this screw is not supposed to be?
Maybe to keep the ball from getting stuck between the pop and drops...
Any help is appreciated. Thank you.
not sure about the spring but i have the same problem of the ball getting caught in that spot sometimes. i had to put a small post there to prevent it from happening
Quoted from Clizifer:not sure about the spring but i have the same problem of the ball getting caught in that spot sometimes. i had to put a small post there to prevent it from happening
I think that is what the spring is supposed to prevent. Can’t find any pictures for that area.
EDIT:: found another thread about it, for future reference. It is what I thought.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-simpsons-ball-catch-spring-wire
Must be what this random-looking screw is for.
oh perfect. my machine never had the spring and i was tired of the ball getting caught up there so i added a small post to prevent it
I've had mine since 1997 and have a few issues
1. Since we got it,when the ball is hit with the Left Flipper and hits the 3 Bank, it bounces up and hits the Playfield Glass (I'd say 25-50% of the time). A while back, someone on PinSide replied that Data East built their Flippers "too strong" on the games they put out in their final years and there's no true fix for it, is that still the consensus?
2. Recenltly & Sporadically, at the start of a Ball (when it comes out of the Trough),the music for Level 2 Multiball starts playing (when no Balls are Locked and the Game is supposed to be at Level 1). This lasts for the Duration of the Ball. PinSide suggested troubleshooting the Circuit Boards and in all the Repairs I've done it's the 1 thing I haven't messed with
3 (Pictured). - Cracked Top Lane Plastic
4 (Pictured). - Cracked Cooling Tower Plastic
5 (Pictured). - Just recently noticed Duct Tape on the front of the Main Ramp Assembly (and more underneath the Playfield)
6. Artwork Wear in a few places (Where Moe is before the VUK and in Picture #3 above Homer). I've been told it can be Restored but that Printing and Stenciling the Artwork back in is a very arduous undertaking if you don't know what your doing
I am very much a Novice when it comes to Repair and Restoration (for Complex Issues) but am 100% eager to learn more (and eventually become a Technician myself) so if this could be dumbed down as much as possible I'd appreciate it
Thanks guys!
20200321_204734 (resized).jpg20200321_204739 (resized).jpg20200321_204750 (resized).jpgI can help with number 1. Cut out some clear plastic and install it over the bowling pins. I’ve never had an air ball with mine because of the protector. The rest good luck. I have play field wear on mine and I’m no artist so I just play it as it is. As far as the plastics go this game is apparently notorious for the plastics being hard to find. Hopefully someone else can help with the rest
pasted_image (resized).jpegQuoted from LuchaBoyPIN:If i wanted to switch that Bulb out,do i need to take out the entire 5 Bank Assembly or is there another way?[quoted image]
From underneath? Or can you just not remove the plastic above it?
I can remove the Plastic if that will allow me to replace the Bulb easier. If i wanted to do it from Underneath,would i just have to remove the Rubber?
That's the worst bulb to change on the whole machine. You have to remove the ramp to be able to remove the plastic to remove the bulb. Under the playfield, the bayonet holder is stapled in and its screw has solder across it from the ground wire. I've left mine burned out for four years because it's just too much of a pain in the ass to change.
Quoted from LuchaBoyPIN:1. Since we got it,when the ball is hit with the Left Flipper and hits the 3 Bank, it bounces up and hits the Playfield Glass (I'd say 25-50% of the time). A while back, someone on PinSide replied that Data East built their Flippers "too strong" on the games they put out in their final years and there's no true fix for it, is that still the consensus?
Under the bowling plastic is a metal plate that's almost the same shape as the plastic. If you rotate is 180' it will hang out over the drop targets like an awning and prevent all ball hop from there.
Quoted from LuchaBoyPIN:6. Artwork Wear in a few places (Where Moe is before the VUK and in Picture #3 above Homer). I've been told it can be Restored but that Printing and Stenciling the Artwork back in is a very arduous undertaking if you don't know what your doing.
Luckily, Simpsons is a game with hand-drawn playfield artwork, so if you decide to re-paint the worn areas, even if you don't do a perfect job it won't be as noticeable as on playfields with straight lines and perfect circles.
If i wanted to make the Awning over the 3 Bank (either using Clear Plastic or the Trapezoidal Metal Plate underneath the 3 Bank Plastic),what type of Screws would I need to install it?
Quoted from LuchaBoyPIN:If i wanted to make the Awning over the 3 Bank (either using Clear Plastic or the Trapezoidal Metal Plate underneath the 3 Bank Plastic),what type of Screws would I need to install it?
The same screws that are already there. All you're doing is rotating the plate.
Anybody know what the Risque Sounds Adjustment is used for in the In Game Diagnostics? I don't notice a difference in the In Game Audio whether it's set to On or Off,and the show was pretty tame when the machine was released so i don't know what it could be in reference to
Hey folks,
I'm wondering if anyone has or knows of a playfield in good condition? Mine has the typical wear and would love to upgrade it.
My Machine is displaying "1 Ball Missing" when i press Start and all 3 Balls are accounted for and not stuck anywhere on the Playfield
- At first, the Trough Switch would "sputter" and not release the next Ball during a Game
- I took all 3 Balls out of the Machine manually and Drained them one at a time. The Machine still displays "3 Balls Missing" after the first one is Drained, meaning the Machine is not "counting" that first Ball, but it counts the other 2 just fine
- I hypothesized that during the Diagnostics we had to take a Ball out Manually, touch any Switch with it so it registered than Drain it. However, the issue persisted
- This last part is hard to describe, but the Shoot Again Switch had a Pin/Connector that looked bent and after some minor adjustments (without the Switch Adjustment Tool),the Issue was resolved but reoccurred after the end of Ball 1 on a Game we were able to start Successfully
- The Machine successfully completes the All Coil Test 3 times in a row (releasing the 3 Balls) when the Playfield is Raised
I'm lost as far as what the Issue could be and was wondering if (and how) i need to use my Switch Adjustment Tool to correct the problem?
Thanks in advance!
Hi all, does your machine have these lane divider posts?
IMG_20210228_221834590~2_resize_23 (resized).jpg
Trying to figure out if they are original or not. I feel like they've been added. I have one on each side. The playfield diagram does not show them, but can't really go by that since it's not exactly accurate. It also doesn't show the bumper between flippers. IPDB photos appear to show holes on both sides but no post. The playfield diagram in my book appears to show a mark for it on the right but not on the left, and no number.
mine has those thin little metal posts that can sometimes be found behind the sling rubbers to stop ball jams
Edit: I'm talking about the inlane/outlane posts here.....not sure if you are?!?
Oh interesting, so jardine you have a nail and Pahuffman has nothing. Interesting. Looking at pics on the forum it appears there may have originally been dimples there, maybe operator's choice to place something there?
I wish I would've known those posts weren't original before I finished the restoration...
I’m guessing it was operators choice. Mine did not have them but had holes. I added them and it makes the game much more enjoyable. Without them it’s such an outlane drain monster that the only real strategy for points is to spam the ramp over and over and over. I think I got 29 million in a game doing nothing but that without the posts on there. After adding them going for multiball or trying to hit the drop targets on the right became a viable strategy as well. My scores didn’t really go up that much, 32 million and change is my best, but it sure made the game more enjoyable. My family has enjoyed the game much more with the posts as well.
That makes a lot of sense, thanks for the input. I'll probably leave them off for now and see how it plays. I guess it's not too bad to have the holes. I was thinking they'd be asking for damage with the ball traveling over them but no more than a rollover slot I suppose.
Since this playfield had been worked over before, (including half a dozen drywall screws in various locations I had to fill and repair) I don't trust much that was on the playfield when I got it.
So what does everyone have for this post? The playfield diagram calls for the "standoff with groove" that I have my finger on, but most pics I see have the "bumper post with threaded top" shown lying down.
Quoted from polyacanthus:That makes a lot of sense, thanks for the input. I'll probably leave them off for now and see how it plays. I guess it's not too bad to have the holes. I was thinking they'd be asking for damage with the ball traveling over them but no more than a rollover slot I suppose.
Since this playfield had been worked over before, (including half a dozen drywall screws in various locations I had to fill and repair) I don't trust much that was on the playfield when I got it.
So what does everyone have for this post? The playfield diagram calls for the "standoff with groove" that I have my finger on, but most pics I see have the "bumper post with threaded top" shown lying down.
[quoted image]
Bumper post with threaded top is correct. Post gets a black sleeve, and the threaded top will hold the metal plate under the plastic, the "make a strike" plastic, and lastly the bracket for the "Bowl-a-rama" plastic.
FWIW I have dimples above the lane guides on my playfield, but no posts ever added.
Yours looks great! I picked up mine last weekend and have to do some cabinet gluing. No telling when the last time it was cleaned and I found quite a few dirt dauber nests inside. The price was right though at $750 with a new XPin display and a new power driver board.
PXL_20210225_233028532 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210225_232640938 (resized).jpg
I paid more for mine. $750 is a steal, especially with today’s prices on games. I need to fix one corner also. The plastics that are usually broke are broke on mine.
Agreed, $750 is a steal. Your plastics look in good shape too. Mine were thoroughly destroyed or altogether missing and I paid twice that.
Yeah I was thrilled when he said that number! Only broken plastic is the El Barto one in the back that I have found.
Update on mine. It will not be restored all the way. For now it will be fixed up to play. I would love a Bart sticker instead of painting. I touched it up today. A bit more to do. Luckily much of the touch up areas are hidden after assembly. I wanted to tear it down, clean, fix the corner and then I’ll order needed parts.
A0161DAC-34E9-42BA-AD98-07CBCD5968FF (resized).jpegQuoted from polyacanthus:Hi all, does your machine have these lane divider posts?
[quoted image]
Trying to figure out if they are original or not. I feel like they've been added. I have one on each side. The playfield diagram does not show them, but can't really go by that since it's not exactly accurate. It also doesn't show the bumper between flippers. IPDB photos appear to show holes on both sides but no post. The playfield diagram in my book appears to show a mark for it on the right but not on the left, and no number.
Mine has posts there also.
Got mine up and running. Recapped the PS Board, Leg braces / Corner Glue, LED's 184 of them!!, Touched up the paint.
Made some aluminum pieces the same shape as the plastics that usually break and put them underneath the new plastics (Ay Caramba, and Drops)
I had reset issues. I reflowed the solder on the PS connectors and the battery area. So far so good......hopefully it does not get flaky again.
Currently I am working on decals for Bart and Moe. I am not good at painting.
In the future I will decal the cabinet and paint the legs, lockdown bar, coin door.
I am on the lookout for the upgraded cooling towers, much easier to remove and service.
Re capped the sound board today. Humming is almost totally gone.
Game works good now and no issues.
Can't say the same for my Firepower......Put in new IC sockets and now it wont boot, probably going to buy aftermarket boards for that one.
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