(Topic ID: 280823)

Data East Power Supply Arcing Shorting

By McPin54

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 21 posts
  • 7 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by barakandl
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_7690 (resized).JPG
Cut (resized).jpg
trace (resized).jpg
20201102_092607 (resized).jpg
20201102_091332 (resized).jpg
20201101_215729 (resized).jpg
20201101_215729~2 (resized).jpg

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider McPin54.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#1 3 years ago

Need some help here. Playing Simpsons this weekend when the display went out. Turned off machine and turned back on. Noticed a spark from the power board. Turned off immediately. Noticed C7 was leaking. The electrolytic capacitor that leaked was causing arcing, and creating a short between the horizontal trace. I cleaned up and replaced C7 along with the other caps. Noticed that the bridge had gone bad also so replaced a 3501 with a 3504. When installing the board still was arcing (spot shown in pic). Pinwiki shows this problem but can not find the fix. Where should I go from here.

Thank you in advance.

#2 3 years ago
20201101_215729 (resized).jpg20201101_215729 (resized).jpg20201101_215729~2 (resized).jpg20201101_215729~2 (resized).jpg
#4 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Big transistor on heat sink still good ?
LTG : )

I will check. Do you know the part numbers for the 2 transistors just up from the arcing? Can't find them in the manual. Thank you for responding

#5 3 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Big transistor on heat sink still good ?
LTG : )

It checks out in diode test. NPN

Are TR3 and TR4 the same part? Do you know the part numbers?

Thanks again

#9 3 years ago
Quoted from kbliznick:

I've seen this exact issue nearly a dozen times. You have to dremel out all of the arced fiberglass and may have to run a jumper on the backside or use a razor blade and cut through the board to separate the two lines. That's a via just under the "E" on the left trace so it runs though the board. Any burnt material left in place can continue to arc. Also don't forget to clean all the leaked electrolytic and replace the caps. Also replace the 330 uf and the other small caps in the 5V circuit on this board while you are at it. I am finding that 330 uf cap leaking in around 90%+ of the original DE power supplies.

Thank you so much!

Here is what i did. Did I Dremel too deep? I can see a little of the trace below. Will it arc there too?
See PICTURE
Thanks again

20201102_091332 (resized).jpg20201102_091332 (resized).jpg
#10 3 years ago

Should i drop in some clear?

#11 3 years ago
20201102_092607 (resized).jpg20201102_092607 (resized).jpg
#13 3 years ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

I fill it in with some epoxy glue or fiberglass resin.

Thank you!

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from kbliznick:

I've seen this exact issue nearly a dozen times. You have to dremel out all of the arced fiberglass and may have to run a jumper on the backside or use a razor blade and cut through the board to separate the two lines. That's a via just under the "E" on the left trace so it runs though the board. Any burnt material left in place can continue to arc. Also don't forget to clean all the leaked electrolytic and replace the caps. Also replace the 330 uf and the other small caps in the 5V circuit on this board while you are at it. I am finding that 330 uf cap leaking in around 90%+ of the original DE power supplies.

Does this cause other components to fail on the power board by the arcing?

#15 3 years ago

Great News! Arcing has stopped and Everything is in good working order except the Display. Looks like I am missing -100V. Im guessing TR4 is my problem on the power board.

1 week later
#18 3 years ago
Quoted from kbliznick:

The red area is what you wanted to cut out (or even cut through) to separate the shorting circuits.
[quoted image]

I did not. Is this why I am missing the -100v? ( and have no display)? I just received the two transistors for the 100 and -100v. I was going to change the one that drives the -100v. But your saying that I need to add jumper in the pic you circled above. It didnt look like I went deep enough to cause a problem??

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 12.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Daddio's 3D Printed Mods
 
$ 99.99
Lighting - Other
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 25.00
Cabinet - Other
Filament Printing
 
$ 44.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
PinBoss Mods
 
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
From: $ 19.99
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
 
$ 39.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Daddio's 3D Printed Mods
 
$ 39.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Daddio's 3D Printed Mods
 
$ 35.00
Cabinet - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
$ 15.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Daddio's 3D Printed Mods
 
$ 50.00
Playfield - Protection
Duke Pinball
 
$ 27.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
$ 65.00
Boards
Pinball Haus
 
3,200
Machine - For Sale
Boca Raton, FL
From: $ 159.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Sparky Pinball
 
$ 39.99
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Daddio's 3D Printed Mods
 
Trade
Machine - For Trade
Myrtle Beach, SC
$ 5.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
 
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
 
Hey modders!
Your shop name here

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider McPin54.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-power-supply-arcing-shorting?tu=McPin54 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.