Speaking of harnesses, I found this interesting. Just picked up a Secret Service, which is the second game after Laser War. All the sub-harnesses, such as the ones that go to the speaker panel and topper, have stamped tags for Secret Service, the main harness stamp tag read Laser War. Of course, that can be expected when harnesses are passed from one game to the next when the existing harness meets the current design requirements.

This help?

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A little less drinking the next time you take a pic, lol I was trying to see the art on the wall.

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From what I heard, this is why you won't find the brand name anywhere on the cabinet or translite. Mine has the Sega credit displayed on the DMD, while having the DE on the poker chip stack plunger handle

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Did you just forget to include Maverick on your chart? Thick with drop targets, plenty to shoot for, lots of great flow and a challenging rule set - the best of any DE games.

I also see you red x'd Secret Service. Why? It's probably thinner on rules than most - but is a great game from that time period with a 2 and 2 ball multiball and almost identical layout to High Speed. Set up right it's a super fast game that leaves me exhausted after a good game. You just have to like 80s cheezyness and spy movies like I do.

No, the sound boards are not upwards or downwards compatable.

Check and verify clean power....both DC levels and AC ripple. Any questionable out of spec power should be investigated.
Try reseating, checking continuity, or better yet - replacement - of the ribbon cable between the MPU and sound board.
Check all sockets, make sure no damage, contamination...replace any questionable sockets. Should be clean and shiny sockets as well as the pins on the ICs.
If none of the above, you'll probably need an oscilloscope and advanced audio troubleshooting techniques or enlist the help of a professional.

Repair it immediately! That game is unsafe. Nobody needs a fire. At minimum you are going to need a new fuse holder and mains power cable, probably replace the power switch and line filter as well. If you can't or don't want to, please enlist professional assistance.

Note that Clays guides say fuses specified are for *most* games, and to refer to your manual for exact fuse recommendations. There are many faces in this series, some have different board revisions and. game features.

Make certain the fuses are actually s!ow blow (time delay) fuses. Make sure that no instantaneous coils are struck on. This could be a simple case of things getting jostled in transportation.

Without looking for a manual, since I only have a second.... If you look at your switch matrix table in the manual and find a switch labeled as lane change, then yes.

The design of the game doesn't split frequencies like you are thinking. This is why the cabinet speaker is a midrange speaker and not a woofer. The cabinet just enhances the low frequencies. There is no reason to put a crossover on the cabinet speaker because there is nothing to crossover to, unless you add another higher frequency mid or tweeter to the cab. You don't need an LPAD, unless you want that kind of control - but that would only allow you to lower the volume of the cab speaker. If you wanted to make the cab speaker louder than the backbox speakers, you could use a stereo LPAD for the backbox speakers. If I was just replacing the cab speaker with a woofer, I wouldn't use an LPAD or a crossover, I'd use a low pass filter so that only the low frequencies are passed to the woofer.

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80*hz* not mhz - just for clarity. The part you linked to is just a low pass filter, the description is misconstrued. The picture shows a part with just a coil and capacitor....that is a low pass filter, just like the schematic diagram in my last post. A true crossover will have additional components for additional tailoring of frequencies to different speakers that reproduce specific ranges of frequencies.

The game speakers (at least the common and earlier solid state games) get the same full range of frequencies fed to full range speakers. No fancy high fidelity, no fancy distinctions between frequency reproduction. A small pair of full range speakers in the backbox, and a slightly larger full range speaker in the cabinet - to give it a little backbone. This doesn't mean you can't attempt to improve on it by dividing up the source into different frequency reproduction and feed to tweeters, woofers etc... I just wanted to let you know what you are working with.

All good points.

The resistance of the coil is normal because it hasn't fried - yet. If it is smoking it is probably because the current is continuous instead of momentary. You might have a bad sleeve due to the heat, so replace that and check for free movement. Suspect a shorted driver transistor or something upstream is probably holding it on. Replace the diode if it is at all questionable (inexpensive) making sure the orientation is correct.

Wondering how that got reversed? A backwards diode directly shorts the solenoid power. That should kill the fuse and none of your solenoids using the power from that branch would not work