(Topic ID: 109642)

Data East pinball club

By PinballManiac40

9 years ago


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  • 3,057 posts
  • 508 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Garrett
  • Topic is favorited by 219 Pinsiders

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“Do you have any Data East Pinball machines??”

  • Yes, I have one. 570 votes
    58%
  • I have one or more. 280 votes
    29%
  • Considering buying one or more. 84 votes
    9%
  • No, never 44 votes
    4%

(Multiple choice - 978 votes by 936 Pinsiders)

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#506 7 years ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

I like some DE games. My major complaint - especially with the older ones - is the genrally shitty quality of some of the mechanics and especially the cabinet. Pale in comparison with the system 11 stuff.

It took decades but eventually they caught up. These old DE games are essentially the origins of modern stern games.

One must remember, that Data East was born out of the leftovers
of the then out of business Stern "classic" period. The parts were
a mishmash from Wico and whatever parts Stern had that survived
the fallout back in the day. The games they produced, were designed
to last the bear minimum that U.S. law would allow. Like all
pinball manufacturers, they never expected their games to be around
twenty plus years after the fact; the games were explicitly designed for
a moment in time.

#510 7 years ago
Quoted from sevenrites:

They really cranked out a lot of cool titles.

You owe that to Joe Kaminkow.

1 month later
#530 7 years ago

Are you sure you did not blow a solenoid fuse?

1 week later
#559 7 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

what do I do about the red cooling towers ?

They're broken, do I need to buy the tspp cooling towers and try something there?

If the pop bumper bodies were Williams (shallow top lip) then the red
plastic cooling towers had a greater chance of survival against the up
and down pounding that the bumpers produced.

1 week later
#566 7 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

change the pop bumper bodies to the williams?

The "red" cooling towers had an angel and along with the short rods
caused the lip of the Data East pop bumpers to crash against the "red"
plastic and rip the assemblies from the small angle brackets that mounted
the plastic red towers. (That is why they are broken in the first place).
I do not know if Stern has changed the angel on the "gray" cooling
towers.
Wiliams pop bodies had a shallower lip and those gave an "air" gap
between the "red" cooling tower plastic and the top of the pop bumper
bodies and thus did not break. ( longer pop bumper rods would have fixed
the problem in the first place ).
One can even sand down the top lip of the Data East pop bumper bodies
in order to achieve the same effect.

#578 7 years ago

frankmac
Data East Time Machine is the only contemporary pinball to use
two sound systems.
1) sound card/board
2) chime unit
Great game, have fun.

#586 7 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

complete with inside yellow stickers for my Torpedo Alley.

The "yellow stickers" were not used till the early 90's.

#587 7 years ago

Torpedo Alley is a cool game. It sadly needs another
digit.

#590 7 years ago

I know Data East Guns-n-Roses had stickers on
the insides of the legs that went to the game.
They were about the game height adjustment.

#596 7 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Those are Bally legs on your TA!

Looks more like 1990's Data East LW3. SW. legs.

#622 7 years ago
Quoted from Turtlepower169:

Mine melted from the previous owner leaving the machine in the sun.

LORD that is sad!!!

#646 7 years ago

Check electronics store, speaker grill.
Or, metal fabricator shop.

1 month later
#706 7 years ago
Quoted from alexmogil:

these lights are AC not DC duh

Do you mean DC not AC.

DC = Direct Current
AC = Alternating Currnet
Lamp Strobes = Direct Current.
GI Lamps = Alternating Current.
Ah, the joys of pinballs.

1 month later
2 months later
#781 6 years ago

A/C relay not working correctly.

3 weeks later
#792 6 years ago
Quoted from amkoepfer:

when did data east start putting in shaker motors?

Check Point.

Quoted from amkoepfer:

Are any games set up for them without having one?

No.

Quoted from amkoepfer:

I have a rocky and bullwinkle that would be fun to ha e one on

You would have to hack the software if there is any room and have to come up with a port
to drive it.

#802 6 years ago

Also, there are the resistors that go bad. 1/2 watt I believe, not sure.

4 months later
#871 6 years ago
Quoted from metalkatt:

I'm thinking my diode should only be soldered to the green wires and to the middle contact, by itself. Not with the white wire.

Check how your other switches are wired. I believe the green wires are to be by themselves.
It looks like the White-blue wire should be on a solder lug that is not part of the leaf switch
contacts and the cathode side of the diode is to be attached to the lug that is part of the leaf
switch contact.

2 months later
#905 6 years ago

1N4004

5 months later
#1035 5 years ago
Quoted from Parkshow30:

Anyone know what the difference between special and credit is?

On some games, if you make the score threshold...
1) special... lite special lamp on playfield.
or
2) credit... award a instant credit.

1 week later
#1093 5 years ago
Quoted from cp1610:

Maybe some day see every DE game in a row in order

Banning, Ca. The Museum of Pinball.
They are very close to having every Data East game.

1 week later
#1096 5 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

Both flippers were completely rebuilt within the last 2 years.

Is the cabinet switches gold contacts?
Is the power hold circuitry working on the solid state board?

1 month later
#1111 5 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:

1 data east and 1 unknown

1 unknown: Bally, late 1970's /early 1980's.

2 months later
#1154 5 years ago
Quoted from cp1610:

Nothing listed as lane change in switch matrix as per book.

Pg. 22
left EOS #15 wht-vio
Right EOS #16 wht-gry
Col 2 grn-red

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#1159 5 years ago

"Lane Change" is copy righted to Williams Electronics...
So... there is no mention of it as a "feature" or documentation.
Same goes for " Multi-Ball"...

4 months later
#1205 4 years ago
Quoted from Keroppi:

I have searched but cannot find: what are the correct DE legs?
I understand that they moved from 28.5" to 30" with GnR, but were they ribbed?
I have a LW3, I have 28.5" legs, which I understand to be correct length, but my legs are (were) chrome, not black crinkle/powdercoat finish. They are *not* ribbed.
Obviously, they're not the "original" legs, but I'd like to at least restore the correct *type* of legs. If original DE legs are not ribbed, I can proceed. Please advise.

Note: Data East legs from that time period were like Bally's legs...
--- butt with black crinkle finish with a light fluting on each side...

#1218 4 years ago
Quoted from Schusler:

I'm curious...did Data East ever have a parts guide ala Bally, Gottlieb and Williams?
Helping a buddy on a pin trying to decipher where some hardware goes (posts,screws) and replacing some completely missing. Manual is rendered useless for the pedantic items.

Not really... They did give new parts information to the current pinball they were putting out...
Butt, you would have to have the current game manual to get the new part #s etc, etc, etc.
They were getting better at parts listing towards the end of the line before Sega bought them out.
Sega would do a complete overhaul of the parts listing in much better detail.
As for Data East games...
I would take a copy of the playfield layout and start marking where the post go, the size, the color, etc.

#1222 4 years ago
Quoted from Schusler:

Ugh, I was 'fraid of that, thanks Vector.
I'm helping a buddy on his Star Wars, trying to decipher what went here and there. Problem is missing screws,wrong screw sizes and the probably one of the harder to find items - missing standup posts for plastics.
Guess the only action is to contact owners for info and work from the beginning.

Can you post pictures of what you need clarified on the Data East Star Wars?

2 months later
#1299 4 years ago

At that time, Data East was experimenting with optional sound ques
rather than the physical coil mounted component.
A cost saving measure for the company.
It did not go over very well with the operators.
Williams would fallow suit and do the same thing.
The sales teams at the shows were promoting it as a way to add
more features, in future games, with the freed-up transistor.

#1305 4 years ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

What's with the speaker panels? Did they come from the factory with both gold and black versions?

1st generation = Laser War silver/chrome
2nd generation = Secret Service = gold/chrome
---------------- = Torpedo Alley = silver/chrome
---------------- = Time Machine = silver/chrome
---------------- = Play Boy 35th = early silver/chrome, then black production
---------------- = rest of Data East games, black production.
3rd generation = Back to the Future= black production, speaker style change.

2 months later
#1414 4 years ago

Supper Spinner!

1 week later
#1440 4 years ago
Quoted from bowtech:

I am having a Simpsons back box light issue. As you can see from the picture the right side lights do not work. The flashers on that side do work though. I checked all connectors and all see ok. Cannot see to find and bad fuses either. I have a manual but am not that versed in pinball repair. Any help would be greatly appreciated[quoted image]

1) flashers... not part of the G.I. circuitry.
2)feature lamps... not part of the G.I. circuitry.
3) Manual pg.41 check power supply connector CN8.
4) Check G.I. lamp strings (BRN, White-BRN)(GRN, White-GRN)
5) Check broken G.I. busing on panel. Note: staples often cut the stranded wire busing.

#1442 4 years ago
Quoted from bowtech:

Thank you. I will do this tonight.

Note: make sure the lamps #44, #47... L.E.D. are good to test in bad area.
I had to do a bally Kiss pinball with the same problem...
Turned out the guy shorted and blew up all of the General Illumination L.E.D.s...

#1447 4 years ago
Quoted from bowtech:

Thanks for all the help! I figured it out. When you mentioned cn8 it got me thinking. A buddy who knows a ton more than me about this replaced that connector for me because it was burned up. I looked at it and the top wire did not push all the way in to the connector and make contact. I pushed it in and boom, lights.

#1454 4 years ago

Note: IDC connectors max current is 2.5 amps. It was a bad idea on Data Easts side to use them...
I experimented with other brands that had a higher current rating.
Technically, the PCB should have had "doubled-up" connectors for
the G.I. lighting; like what Williams did on their WPC system.
Even then, it was not a fail safe system.

#1463 4 years ago
Quoted from oradke:

Found the culprit: Fuses are fine, but coil stops are busted.

#1471 4 years ago

A hammer and a pining tool and you would be all set.

2 months later
#1595 4 years ago
Quoted from RYSR:

I believe DE sold to Saga then Gary bought it back

I almost got a job there... Data East had a program, that if you were with the
company for five years you got a free trip to Hawaii... When Sega took over
the program was stopped... I believe any people lost their free vacation trip.

3 weeks later
#1605 4 years ago

?????????????????????????????
Pinstar....
Mylstar is Gottlieb.

#1609 4 years ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Thanks, $300 is a bit pricey. Hoping to find a used one for cheaper..

LOL!!! Nothing is cheap anymore...
1990's, just the glass alone 128x16 $200.00 new.
It's the price to pay when only five games use this one display.

#1612 4 years ago
Quoted from radial_head:

Beginning a full shop out of Rocky and Bullwinkle today. What draws the line between restoration and a full shop?[quoted image]

If you want restoration... then you better get the correct legs, etc,etc,etc.
Shopping out a game so you could have fun playing it is another thing.

3 weeks later
#1677 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I don't know why, but the octagonal domes are really hard to find. When I bought my JP, it didn't have any domes on top, so I ended up having to go with the round ones after a long unproductive search.
Found these on ebay: ebay.com link » Data East Pair Of Clear Pinball Light Domes Jurassic Park Pinball Parts

You can not buy them... I tried... blocked message comes up.

#1680 4 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

Everywhere I look they are "out of stock" or "discontinued".

Yea... I know... and it sucks.
If I had the funds I would reproduce them...
The guy in Germany has made new molds for discontinued
Williams inserts... That is good, the bad is that the molds have
all the punch out pin holes in the center of the plastic shapes...
it is very distracting to see.

#1692 4 years ago
Quoted from Timerider:

Manual with switch matrix & schematics is on IPDB: https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1233
Tells how to put machine in Diagnostics mode to test all your switches too.

Ding,ding,ding.

1 week later
#1717 4 years ago

And the OEM screws are self tapping.

3 weeks later
#1760 4 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

To be honest I'd fix that.
Take a few days as you would have to do it in stages letting glue dry but I'd do that before swapping out a back box.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Data East back box's, the company failed to add angle support brackets...
which is odd, because Williams had angle brackets in their games...

#1780 3 years ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

but doe snot hurt

Oh really?

#1786 3 years ago

Very nice.

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#1789 3 years ago
Quoted from monkfe:

Has anyone come up with a better playfield slide mechanism for Data East machines? This is perhaps the most difficult playfield to put back in place of any of the machines I have. I have some wear on the one pivot pin and now would be a good time to upgrade it if someone makes a retrofit.

What game style? If like Star Wars / Jurassic Park...
I add grease to the metal side slides.

#1793 3 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Has anyone pulled the whole playfield on a Rocky and Bullwinkle? Just wondering in advance how many wires need to unplug and how it lifts out. My old Stern, Bally, and Williams games are easy but this one isn’t as obvious.
I have a set of game blades to install and want to pull the playfield for access.

Data East made their games so that the whole playfield could be lifted out
and sit next to the cabinet.
The guy that was the head sales man, for Data East, took a LW3 playfield out to demonstrate
the deference between their game and Williams... "Try and do this with a Williams playfield"
He was also exited that he was one of the image models; for the two guys that gave a high five
in the DMD animation sequence.

#1807 3 years ago

A/C select relay could be going bad...
Adjustment#? might be set on off?
I would install factory and go from there.

#1809 3 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Good luck on search for original topper

Like Avatar... unattainable, Unobtainium.

#1816 3 years ago
Quoted from Pin-up:

Any suggestions on getting those 3 stand up targets to register ALL hits soft AND hard? I would think if one of those diodes was bad there would be a row/column issue going on, but all other switches work great in game and test mode.

Are the gold plated points blown/shot/outworn?

#1819 3 years ago
Quoted from Billc479:

Just a general question - Is there any reason to not try adding a capacitor across the contacts? Maybe this is a systemic issue with this machine. Any other owners have the same issue?

PIA drivers are buffered... 2N3904 drive each column...
The only thing I could think of is maybe software IRQ subroutines are not on par;
So to speak...
I know Williams pinball had strobe issues on their early games. ( thus the capacitor reference )
I have, in the past, replaced warn out points on heavily hit targets...
Service Bulletin #018 Program Revision
New EPROMS Version A02-3
Revision is for sample games.
'Switch closure issues with kickback assembly'

#1823 3 years ago
Quoted from TiltingT:

Well the flashers were turned off on my LW3 on the settings.. so they are up and running as they should be.. Thanks for the insight everyone!

1 week later
#1877 3 years ago
Quoted from apic7917:

I am in need of some help on my Data East Batman. I had a bulb locked on under an insert when I bought this game and pretty much melted the insert. I since have replaced the insert but I could use a scan of the insert art work. It is the insert of Jack Napier on the right of the playfield. I have attached a photo of the artwork I need. Or if anyone happens to have a worn parts playfield that the insert is good, that would work too. Please any help work be appreciated.
[quoted image]

Boy, you should have gotten in contact with TNT amusements.
They might, still have the playfield... I do not know.

#1889 3 years ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Just picked up a tftc today , puttin inthe new plastics that came with it. Are these just promotional pieces? I see a few pics of the keeper on the playfield , but it doesnt look like it belongs there. Thx
[quoted image]

You are missing two clear half pieces that put the display together.

#1904 3 years ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

Red triangle is tough to find.

Yup! I believe it is only used on Data East Time Machine.

#1913 3 years ago
Quoted from apic7917:Anyone by chance have this tamp for a DE Hook? Ir is the skill shot ramp that comes off the shooter lane. I am in desperate need of one. Please let me know. Thanks you
[quoted image]

Make inquire to @Freeplay40... I believe he has made them.

#1918 3 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Guys,
Anyone here install a Boston Pinball LED dmd as a replacement for their Plasma dmd? The 128x16 dmd for my TMNT works perfectly but I am interested in having a newer (green) display, and I also like having a backup dmd. The led display instructions are very straightforward, and I'm getting good feedback from Boston Pinball customer service. My questions for you guys involve the correct placement of the display, and use/type of plastic standoffs. I always felt my display was slightly lower than it should be. Also, I noticed two hacks performed, one being a jumper wire, and the second being glued plastic standoffs (3 out of 4 glued). The standoffs do not have screws on the opposite side of lightboard. I'm assuming they need to be yanked from the board because they only rotate in place (they do not unscrew). They project 3/4" from face of board.
My questions:
1. Can you guys take a look at the pics and tell me if the display position looks correct with respect to up-down position? I still feel it's a tad lower, and I would hate installing my new DMD using incorrect mounting points. Position could also be affected by possible sagging at the lightboard where it locks in at slide bracket.
2. Can you tell (from the pics) if these plastic standoffs can be pulled from the lightboard? I'm planning to use the 3/4" long plastic spacers (provided by Boston Pinball) with bolts and nuts.
I appreciate the support!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

1) Adjust/reset your backboard.
2) Measure the window ( back glass ) to frame of back box.
--- remove back glass and use the measurements to adjust the DMD brackets/standoffs...
Note: On the POTO game I drilled slots into the PCB that housed the display glass...
----- I used two screws and two spacers and was able to "fit" the display to the back glass.

2 months later
#2024 3 years ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

Calling all DE Batman owners - I’ve been trying to find interior pics of the game, looking for confirm if the cardboard box in my cabinet is a standard thing for the game lol
[quoted image]

Data East had, for a time, a "goody box" of spare parts...

#2029 3 years ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

For Batman --- the game flyer shows yellow flipper bats, but going to Marcos they seem to list white ones... which I'm noticing a mix of color choices when I google playfield pics....
Outta curiosity - does anyone know what the game originally shipped with? the white or the yellow?

OEM Data East Batman 1991 Yellow flipper bats.

#2032 3 years ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

Apologies for all the recent Batman posts, but I just acquired the game yesterday and am a tad excited.
I'm trying to find Flipper Assembly coil information but the manual just says 'refer to coil chart for game specific coils' -- whereas my DE JP had the coil part number in the flipper assembly section of the manual.
On this page (http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/desega/index3.htm#rebuild) I found it listed as #090-5020-30 for the left and right flipper.
In my game currently I've got a #090-5020-30 on the left (looks new) and a #090-5020-20 on the right... is this correct? should they be mixed up like this? will it harm the game to play with two different coils?
Which coil # should be in the game?
Thanks in advance all.

Batman rev. flipper assemblies
500-5177-71 R. solid state no End-of-Stroke switch 090-5030-00 flipper coil 23-1100
500-5177-72 L. solid state no End-of-Stroke switch 090-5030-00 flipper coil 23-1100
Note: 23-900 coils are too strong and bust up all ramp plastics and posts.

#2036 3 years ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Where did you find this information?
Should I adjust the Tech Chart?

I started with the service bulletins....
Then I started with the manuals...
Then I started to put the flipper assemblies in numerical order...
e.g.
500-5031-51 R. Extra diode, End-of-Stroke switch 090-5020-02 flipper coil 22-900
500-5031-52 L. Extra diode, End-of-Stroke switch 090-5020-02 flipper coil 22-900
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
500-5177-01 R. solid state, no End-of-Stroke switch 090-5020-20 flipper coil 22-900
500-5177-02 L. solid state, no End-of-Stroke switch 090-5020-20 flipper coil 22-900

#2038 3 years ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

Thanks so much vec-tor, and forgive my novice-ness but I'm confused with the differences in numbers between the 2 posts you made and am hoping to learn from you as I'm new to all this.
So the 500-5177-01 and 02 are the part numbers for the full right and left flipper assemblies - but when I look them up on Marcos both show the 090-5020-30 coil.
In your first post you mentioned 090-5030-00 as the coils - but in the second post you mentioned 090-5020-02 and 090-5020-20 -- then the numbers differ between 23-1100 and 22-900 (with your warning to stay away from 23-900).
Putting those into Marcos or PinballLife return a variety of coils - some with diodes and some without.
I tried looking for the service bulletins and came up here -- http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb62.pdf -- Which asks for 090-5020-30 (23-900).
Am I missing a service bulletin where this one changed? does the coil number list somewhere in the batman manual that I'm missing?
Is it an issue that my game has the 5020-20 and 5020-30 mixed?

O.K. then to continue...
500-5177-01 R. solid state, no End-of-Stroke switch 090-5020-20 flipper coil 22-900
500-5177-02 L. solid state, no End-of-Stroke switch 090-5020-20 flipper coil 22-900
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
500-5177-31 R. solid state, no End-of-Stroke switch 090-5020-30 flipper coil 23-900
500-5177-32 L. solid state, no End-of-Stroke switch 090-5020-30 flipper coil 23-900
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Does this help.

#2041 3 years ago

O.K. @johnjn.
You say you have Data East Batman.
pg. 31 items listed
8) Flipper Assy Right 500-5177-71
9) Flipper Assy Left 500-5177-72
------------------------------------------
500-5177-71 R. solid state, no End-of-Stroke switch 090-5030-00 flipper coil 23-1100
500-5177-72 L. solid state, no End-of-Stroke switch 090-5030-00 flipper coil 23-1100
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
These flippers assemblies are used in Data East Star Trek also...
*************************************************
Manual miss print:
pg. 28 leftover from Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles
pg. 61 leftover from Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles
Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles Flippers are....
pg. 31 items listed
20) 500-5177-31 R. solid state, no End-of-Stroke switch 090-5020-30 flipper coil 23-900
19) 500-5177-32 L. solid state, no End-of-Stroke switch 090-5020-30 flipper coil 23-900

#2042 3 years ago
Quoted from scootss:

I have a JP where the start button sticks a bit. How can I get the cover off to clean a bit. I know how to change the bulb but that doesn't seem to give me access to the button itself. thanks!

Unscrew the plastic nut...
remove the button from cabinet...
Two prongs with a spring inside... squeeze the two prongs to release the center button
from the black housing.

#2045 3 years ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

vec-tor -- thank you.
Are the 23-1100 stronger than the 900? as you mentioned earlier - does this mean they will crack the plastics?

No 23-1100 are a tad weaker...
Back in the day at the AMOA Data East was experimenting with flipper strengths...
Data East first promoted their flippers as "walnut busters" the most power full flippers
in the industry... Sad truth is, that yes, they were the strongest, and had the longest throw,
but were busting everything that was plastic, on the playfield, and you really could not
aim for anything really accurately; this is where Williams flippers would excel at.
I talked to one of the sales guys at the show, and at that time they were trying to tone
down the flippers to better compete with Williams games.
Data East would revamp their flippers starting with LW3 [ 500-5606-** series ]
As I believe now, Batman went into production with TMNT flippers.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Flipper Coil ohms
23-900 coil 4.05 ohm
23-1100 coil 5.1 ohm
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Note: New joker ramp being made! Should be able to holdup better than the old one.
Note2: Rebuild your flippers and try each type of coil and see what works right for your game.

#2046 3 years ago

Data East Batman flippers ref.
500-5177-71 R. solid state, no End-of-Stroke switch 090-5030-00 flipper coil 23-1100
500-5177-72 L. solid state, no End-of-Stroke switch 090-5030-00 flipper coil 23-1100
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Note: "ultimate" flipper base. from prior games. e.g. Checkpoint.
Note: Colsond3 sold a believed HUO Batman... it is very clean.
15090252aeb108da75b14670e2ba5a2d63cf94f1 (resized).jpg15090252aeb108da75b14670e2ba5a2d63cf94f1 (resized).jpg
8c2eedb60759e6762875714b665a4928d6f440e5 (resized).jpg8c2eedb60759e6762875714b665a4928d6f440e5 (resized).jpg
Colsond3 HUO Batman
533e84f154d712b6c55fcc5ec7c801d69bfa1ed5 (resized).jpg533e84f154d712b6c55fcc5ec7c801d69bfa1ed5 (resized).jpg
I hope this clarifies the Batman flipper coils.
Operators install what ever coils are available to keep their games running...
I do not know if the 23-900 coils where in abundance, so these coils where installed in
Batman and other Data East games.
For instance, this Batman has the Ultimate 23-900 coils installed.
Note: this playfield is also a Playfield Swap.
50b1e1856618edfd8df5aab43a648dccd966ce5e (resized).jpeg50b1e1856618edfd8df5aab43a648dccd966ce5e (resized).jpeg

#2050 3 years ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

This is amazing vec-tor - thank you so much.
So in my machine both flippers have two different coils on them (090-5020-30 and 090-5020-20) - I shall go ahead and replace them with the 090-5030-00 as you suggested above.
When I did a search on them through PinballLife the 090-5030-00 now returns an 090-5030-OT coil - forgive my stupidity here but I just wanted to triple check that this one is an ok substitute (the listing states its a replacement for the 00).
If you've got an alternate suggestion though, I'm happy to hear to it and thank you for your help.

The part #090-5030-OT coil is the same thing...
[ -0T ] is for diode placement... Top or Bottom of coil bobbin.

#2054 3 years ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

Hey All - I have to change the backglass lift trim on my DE Batman.
Unless it's overkill... I had wondered what people do with the new trim -- if I should add a strip of electrical tape or anything on the bottom the glass or the inside of the new trim where it'll be touching the backglass to help with friction or rubbing against the artwork?
Thanks,

Friction tape, not electrical tape.

1 week later
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#2071 3 years ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

I may have missed this but does anyone have a source for the HUGE capacitor on the DE power supply? Mine is definitely bad and slowly drains until it no longer can keep capacitance as the game runs. I can’t find the massive one and my game does NOT have the holes for multiple smaller caps

Which Game... What version of power supply?...
I never had the "big cap" go bad but I know the small caps go bad and cause odd problems.

1 week later
#2088 3 years ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

Outta curiosity — is there a preference of rubber for the front of the bat cave posts that better protects the cave from hits?
Of the two playfields I have, they both have different rubbers - then looking through the galleries it seems that everyone has a different style.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Data East Rubber post.
Note:
545-5260-00 N.L.A.
Long tapered black post. Hard shore.
This is the closest replacement I could find...
Gottlieb - 30003Y+
http://www.pbresource.com/rubber/rin-sleeve.jpg

1 month later
#2137 3 years ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

I've got a lot (if not all) schematics on my website.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Data_East.htm
Scroll down to the bottom of the page and you will find them in the green section.
Please len me know if something needs to be corrected.
Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

Note: power supply 520-5047-00 1st generation dmd... 128 by 16.
---- Amendment add .1 ufd 500 v cap. to R14.
---- it is mounted on top of the resistor, with extra wires extensions to the capacitor
---- to make connections to the open legs of both ends of the resistor.

#2140 3 years ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Do you mean like this?[quoted image]

Yes. When the first DMD games came out... they had the 0.1 cap. attached
---- to the resistor R14.

#2145 3 years ago
Quoted from JohnJN:

question regarding backbox bolts -- did the DE machines original ship with these?

Data East first generation of pinballs had backbox bolts.
When the company redesigned the lock mechanism the bolts where omitted.
The change came to satisfy operators who did not have the time to open the backbox
up after setting up the game in a location. Many operators would just "snap" the
old back latch and walk away... this lead to many backboxs getting damaged and
destroyed from the latch coming apart and having the backbox come crashing down
on to the main cabinet to the game.

3 weeks later
#2163 3 years ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

I've been looking into this and stumped...With mame and IPDB images, I'm finding even labelled as 1.06 they show 1.02 on the display at startup. Wondering if 1.06 display rom actually exists or if it just got confused with CPU 1.06. The file hashes of anything called 1.06 match the 1.02 binaries. I went as far as the T3 manual and Stern still showing 1.06 is latest...
Any help would be appreciated.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

From a Sega Twister manual the display rom is A1.02 U8 part No. 965-0071-00.

3 months later
#2263 3 years ago
Quoted from cadmium:

Howdy, I’m looking for suggestions on Rocky & Bullwinkle. What can I put in the hole on Bullwinkle’s hand for the hat trick?
Also, the Rhino is going askew as pictured when it raises. The other pop ups work fine. I tried 3D printing a longer guide but it didn’t help.
[quoted image][quoted image]

OEM has a hex spacer and 6/32 machine screw.
I have seen replaced by a white round spacer with a plastic washer on the backside to keep the last popup from jumping past the arm plastic.

#2265 3 years ago
Quoted from cadmium:

Thanks so much for referring the OEM parts. I ended up designing a 3D print that inserts like a standoff and seems to be working. If it's not durable enough I will use a hex spacer. Good news is that this also solved my issue with the Rhino not dropping. I guess the added weight of the hand plastic keeps it from jamming in the up position.[quoted image]

I would add a sleeve roller to your design.
Very nice design.

2 weeks later
#2274 3 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Hey Guys,
I posted this in the Data East Batman Forum but hope to reach more owners here.
I was finally able to go through all the loose parts from the machine I picked up last weekend (most are currently repacked and organized in boxes now). This is a project pin and I'm trying to make a list of parts that are missing or need replacing. Can anyone send me pics showing the underside of playfield? I can't find any helpful pics online showing the underside. As of now, I have the wires/solenoids/switches/bulb sockets layed out for inspection. I'll need to replace a few solenoids and coil sleeves. I taped all areas that have loose or unattached wires...and will figure out where they attach per manual/schematics. Some areas that I'm hoping to get more pics include the pop bumpers and other major assemblies. Still going through the manual and checking off all items for the major assemblies.
Also, I briefly checked the motor assembly and it doesn't seem to rotate by hand. Not sure if this is typical of a motor that isn't supplied with power (detached) but I'm thinking it needs to be replaced.
There's a clear plastic that has an intersecting piece broken off. I'm not able to identify the piece based on online playfield photos. Hoping there's a replacement for that piece (if it's important).
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I think the motor assembly has a white plastic bushing that goes to the round up/down
hub.

1 week later
#2283 3 years ago
Quoted from luckycreature:

And could this be an issue. Or does it not matter if they aren't all connected?
[quoted image]

Those pins are not used....
If your displays are muddy, and you have all correct voltages to the display,
then the display has degassed.

2 months later
#2381 2 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Guys,
For my DE Batman:
I cannot get this roll pin to budge, even with full strength of a hammer. Do I need to get a punch set for this piece? I was hoping to do a quick swap of the aluminum link, but damn...these little jobs become so time-consuming.
Thanks!
[quoted image]

1)I shove a flat screw driver into the open end of the plunger to help take up any slack/gap.
2) Cushion the plunger and mount on top side of vice. [ must have gap for roll pin ]
3) Strike roll pin with hammer and use punch as above.

#2384 2 years ago
Quoted from durgee7:

I didn't have the right setup for some of the recommendations you guys mentioned above. I started with finishing nails, and bent too many to mention. I ended up used a small phillips screw driver with hammer. I hammered one side until the pin would no longer budge. Then, I switched to the other side and had success! Given the method I used, it was a pain...but it worked! Thanks to everyone for your advice.
Now I'm just questioning the spring attachment. I think it just loops around that pivot at the top.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Seat the spring further down the pin stud on the kicker lever.
Good job.

1 year later
#2765 1 year ago

Heads up on ROTTENDOG MPU004 - 3 for Data East games.
The PIA's used on the board, I have been trouble shooting, has some kind
of issue with addressing the DMD. W65C21N6TPG-14 lots ABC655.1 2123G029
are flawed.
I have switched around the PIA's to no avail.
I have tested continuity...etc on all components associated with CN22.
Finally, replaced U_9B with a MC6821 PIA and DMD works... displays player 1 fonts are now present.
Just passing this frustrating hair pulling info along.
Cheers.

#2767 1 year ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Can you make this a little story like you see on www.pinwiki.com?
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Data_East/Sega#Repair_Logs
Then I will add the text for future ref.
Always good to have this kind of info.

Title:
DMD missing, one player game score fonts.
Data East Star Wars - (1.02) roms. with Rottendog MPU004 - 3 board.
Game plays fine, except during one player games the animated score fonts are missing.
With two player games, the player one score fonts would not show, til player two was up.
Isolated the problem down to a bad MPU004 - 3 board.
Tested continuity from CN22 to all associated components, etc.
Rotated all the PIA's W65C21N6TPG-14 and tested the MPU board, to no avail.
Resolution: Replaced U_9B W65C21N6TPG-14 with a MC6821 PIA. The DMD now works correctly.

#2772 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Could just be a bad batch of those chips.

That is what I'm thinking. The board might work correctly, if say it is in a Data East Simpson
type game.

2 months later
#2788 1 year ago

Some good news.
Attention Data East Star Wars owners!!!
News from Mantis Amusements:
About the Death Star Ball Deflector
part #535-5380-00

I'd be happy to make it but would need a sample to copy.

Kerry - Mantis
----------------------------
One needs to send Kerry a good sample of the part...
Data East Star Wars pinsiders it is up to you, to make this part a reality.

#2803 1 year ago
Quoted from TBone8n69:

Right now I’m still looking for a gun assembly to buy but if I can’t find one is this an idea that is possible. Any advice would be appreciated.

Marco has T2 gun assembly.

#2816 1 year ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

Ok so before I totally destroy something I thought I’d post to the group. I have a Time Machine and the speaker grille is not ideal. So a NOS one came up and I bit. Received it today and it’s beautiful………BUT…. Slightly different that what is already in the machine. Of course I didn’t realize it until I took almost everything apart.
Main issue is that there are no holes to reattach the channel for the back glass. Then I noticed that the sides are different. Has anyone ever switched theirs out and if so did you run into these issues?
Chris
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The new old stock part you have is for Data East's first game, Laser War.
The speaker grill assembly is carriage bolted into the back box.

2 weeks later
#2825 1 year ago
Quoted from Catch86:

It looks like someone already replaced that switch. With the wrong one. I would replace it with correct one.

The sad part is , is that E63 family of mini micro switches are discontinued.

3 weeks later
#2837 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Because in one of my wire nuts I have two green leads and two yellow leads.

Remember, pinball manufactures use IDC connectors. The green and yellow wires
at one time were one continuous wires each.

9 months later
#2989 86 days ago
Quoted from Garrett:

Quite the jump in era to say the least for me @DanMarino. May sound odd but the 4MBC pushed me toward getting an SS after being a die hard EM guy since entering the hobby.
Was looking primarily at DE and early System11 for the “simpler” rule set. The JP came from a pinsider and got a nice deal on it.
I’m still learning the game and really like the layout. Lots to shoot at and many modes.
The audio is well done.
Just needs some tweaking to get everything to play smoothly.
Biggest issue I’m seeing so far is the frequency of air balls. It plays quite fast and the ball can jump high enough to get into the ramps.
Also having with the ball falling out of the wire form return to the right flipper. It’s ball speed dependent. Don’t want to spend $250 for the modded enclosed one but may have to.
The kiddo loves this pin too.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Why the pop entrance gate on backwards?

2 weeks later
#3003 71 days ago
Quoted from Garrett:

I was wondering what the cardboard remnant was on the side of the cabinet in the JP.
[quoted image]
Well, the R&B still had it in there.
[quoted image]

That was supposed to be a shield for the arcade tenant.
One can have access to the volume control and cash box without having to get shocked
By the +50 volt flipper coils.

1 week later
#3022 59 days ago
Quoted from Garrett:

JP is a good game but can have some short ball times. You have to maintain control so makes for stop and go gameplay.
R&B is fast and designed for flowing shots. It’s just fun. I was hesitant about the purchase but the JP would go before the R&B.
Makes me wonder how TNMT plays. Will likely add one more DE title and like the layout variations between JP and R&B.
[quoted image]

And the Orbit shots are corrected, over the prior game Star Wars.

3 weeks later
#3031 37 days ago
Quoted from RGarriott:

Needing to know where this connector goes to the n the cabinet of a Hook. This is the cabinet wiring right next to the flipper board.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Optional ticket dispenser mod for FEC locations.
FEC = Family Entertainment Centers.
Very popular during the 1990's

1 week later
#3042 29 days ago

I use an old large Exacto blade to remove the metal actuator from the micro switch body.

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