Any help would be immensely appreciated. The back story is below in case it helps, but here's the current state...

When the lock ball assembly releases the ball to be kicked into the shooter lane, the two main flippers fire once and blow their fuses. Here's a video of it in action.

Note: I had only replaced the left flipper fuse for the video, but if both were in, both would have triggered and then blown.

I did a visual inspection and don't see anything obvious. Any ideas? thank you!!

Back story...

Finally joined the club...ALMOST...

My machine arrived a few days ago but blew a fuse on the first game and I've been in a bad place ever since.

- First game after arrival. My daughter has been playing for a few minutes and gets tri-ball. At some point during the tri-ball, all flippers stop working and all balls drain.

- I did a coil test and all 50v coils won't fire. Upon inspection, I realized that F5 on the PPB board (which is an xpin), has blown

- While waiting for fuses, I came across service bulletin 53 (http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb53.pdf) which says that the upper flipper coil can cause a short due to proximity to the wire bundle. I inspected and one wire had already been repaired and two more have some metal showing. Fixed those and secured the bundle away from the flipper coil.

- Installed a new F5. Do a coil test. The 50V coils work...but when the main flipper coils fire, the flippers go up once...and then never go up again.

- Take a look inside and the two fuses (f1 & f3) on the flipper board have blown.

Jurassic Park...Having trouble with flippers firing and blowing fuses at the start of a game and in diagnostics.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/de-jurassic-park-flippers-fire-amp-blow-fuses#post-5643986

Any ideas?

One of my JP flippers is missing the rubber stop. At some point, someone used some electrical tape instead. How critical is it to replace with the proper rubber?

One pic shows the tape and the other shows the rubber.

Thanks!

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E4DB8F21-29FC-4067-BCC2-8E1EC85FCBBA (resized).jpeg

Thanks. Now just need to find some other stuff to order so I'm not paying $7 shipping on $.50 rubber

Phew...so it's not just me then!!

I have a JP where the start button sticks a bit. How can I get the cover off to clean a bit. I know how to change the bulb but that doesn't seem to give me access to the button itself. thanks!

awesome. thanks!

I need to do a small touch-up to the inside of my JP cabinet. What black paint have folks used?

A question about the most minor detail...

The mylar disc that covers the bolts for the backbox...
(https://www.pinballlife.com/data-eastsegastern-black-mylar-cover-disc.html)

What do people use the staple these in? I tried a staple gun staple, but they stick out too far. What gives a nice, flush look?

The one I got was self adhesive but didn't seem like it would stick that well. But my other side is stapled. Perhaps the easiest is just to remove that one and go staple-less on both...

Not a bad idea. They also look thinner than the staple gun staples I have. Almost look like desk stapler staples (for paper...)

Anyone have an extra piece of the clear plastic that goes in front of the DMD? Upgraded to a color dmd and want a minty fresh window in front. Thanks.

(I have a JP, but assume it is the same for other pins with that size DMD)

Probably the easiest (and most ridiculous) “upgrade” I have done on a pin.

New sticker to cover the lockdown bar receiver. My OCD feels much better now

https://www.titanpinball.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=133

DF6587D4-35F8-4948-BCEE-30BECCBED6CA (resized).jpeg

Thanks, but it is a little deformed / wave. Looks like the heat from the original DMD warped it.

In case it helps...I paid $75 for one that was tested and working/guaranteed last Summer. Looked to be in better shape than this one.

So...maybe $50?

One thing on your side is that the rottendog replacements for this board have notorious issues, so it is probably worth it for someone to buy this and use/test it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rottendog-flp023-data-east-flipper-board-issue

This should be CLOSE to what you're looking for. It is for checkpoint, which is newer than MNF, but will be quite similar.

I thought I knew the answer but I was thinking of the Q1/Q2/Q3 issues on that board. Posting this thread here in case it helps...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rottendog-flp023-data-east-flipper-board-issue

I have a DE JP and can confirm that this is NOT the way they should be. I have no issues with holding power, even due to a ball coming from the raptor kickback.

My "trick" is that I never really trust the arm that lifts up to support that playfield. That seems like the most likely piece/use to cause an issue. I use one of the service positions below.

(the metal arm isn't even show in the bulletin below. Maybe that's because they knew it was terrible!)
pasted_image (resized).png

The position I use the most is position 1 with the rubber strap. This position makes it hard to work on the top of the playfield but there is not much chance of it twisting in that position because half of the playfield is in the cabinet.

Is that position easier to use?

Welcome! You'll probably find that pinball people want to help eachother, so post questions that you have.

Changing bulbs is easy...but sometimes GETTING to the bulb is hard. If you need to take off anything, take pictures with your phone along the way. Go slow. Don't force anything. And then when you're done, do the steps in reverse.

Are the slightly larger than the game plastics? If so, they are probably plastic protectors that go under the real plastics to protect them from cracking.

I know around that time Data East was marketing their flippers as "so strong it could crack walnuts." (laser war ad below)

Maybe it's playing the right way if all the above checks out...?

Screenshot 2023-03-05 at 9.33.37 AM (resized).png

This was helpful for me when I was diagnosing DE flipper issues:
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Data_East/Sega#Solid_State_Flipper_Board_Issues
(snippet below)

In case your replacement was a Rottendog...there have been many (most?) bad batches over the years.

Snag_b88eeaf (resized).png

Cool. Good luck.

Big fan of your work, btw. Thanks for all that you do for the hobby. Assuming you'll be at pinfest, would be good to stop by and say hi.

Given you're close to Allentown, you may also want to post in the pinfest thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinfest-2023-buy-sell-trade-want-no-hotel-talk

This thread may help:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-sega-rollover-switch-part-180-5119-00

Or, order from AUS:
https://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/data-east-ball-trough-micro-switch/

I don't have a picture, but the parts are in the manual.

From Jurassic Park:
Lock and cam - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/LKA78
Lock plate - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-5860-00

Or...they sell a kit:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/535-5860-KIT

Gotcha. I'd suggest posting in the secret service club then.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/secret-service-owners-club-all-are-welcome/page/7

Since it was chopped up, is it possible it is the wrong part? There are left and right switch assemblies. Should it be the other part?

https://www.pinballlife.com/sternsegadata-east-rollover-switch-assembly-left.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/sternsegadata-east-rollover-switch-assembly-right.html

disclaimer: not sure if this is the exact part you need. double check...

A few years ago, I bought a complete set of baffles for JP from wolffcub - It was reasonably priced and made a difference. I don't see them in that pinside store any longer, but you may want to reach out....

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive/109904