hi!

another ball through error on my JP. The last switch acts up (the one that registers the 6th ball). it´s like the ball don´t cause the small wheel at the end of the switch blade do drop significantly to register. I´ve tried to bend the blade but to no avail. It´s like the blade needs to be in the right shape to let the ball pass over the wheel and not get stopped by it, and of course it has also to be low enough to register. (kinda hard to explain in a second language).

Below are two pictures, one when the balls sits at its correct place and the other when the ball get stuck behind the small wheel at the end of the blade and the switch dont register.

Is there another (cheap) way to solve this issue other than keep bending the blade until it´s perfect or order the opto through thingie?

Anyone who has a picture of their perfect working switch?

(the switch is brand new).

/J

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@Catch86, @snyper2099, vec-tor and @scootss; thanks!! this was news to me that there was different "resistance" in the switches

well, the thing is that the old switch started to act up i a similar way, so I thought the switch was failing so I took a similar one and replaced it. Looked through the old pre-photos and the old one was a E63. So I´m gonna swap the switch back to it´s original configuration. Thanks again for the help!

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hi!

(posted this in the Jurassic park thread, will try here as well)

I have a major noise issues with my JP, major dmd bizz and a smaller speaker noise. I got one of them speaker hum reducers from Canada and there was a "static burst" burst when I turned on my JP. ChanceJ told me that I probably need to rebuild my power supply. So i tested my +12V and -12V to the sound board and got like 8 and 14 (cant remeber if the plus was 8 or vice versa). (the 5V was like 4,8). Can this be the culprit? Do I need a new power supply card or can I replace any components?

and finally, can this help solve my dmd buzz?

Hi!

My trough switch no3 is not working. When I test for continuity I get no connection between any legs (with the “button” pressed down by a ball). But when I remove the ball I get continuity between the outher ones.

So is the switch faulty or are the diode broken?

The game is DE Jurassic Park

Attached is a very bad photo I found in my phone.

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Yes, I did just that. My first idea was that one of the wires was cut, because the switch issue happened after I lowered the playfield and some wires got caught in between the cabinet and the playfield but the wires was ok.

But I can’t figure out if the diode or the switch is faulty with my limited knowledge of pinball electronics.

thanks man! I´ll get the E63 one.

This actually happened to me when the first switch in the through started to act up. In my delusions i replaced it with a "generic" ebayish one and suffered the same issues you wrote. Changed to a correct one (actually replaced it with the original I thought was broken and it has worked flawless since).

On a Marco note, as I live in northern Europe, I´ve ordered from mainly Sweden based suppliers or the ones in Germany (well, I actually ordered the Judge Dredd Eagle from California, shipping was...costly..). Is Marco the best US supplier? (the reason I´m asking is because I often hear people say; order it from Marco, but never the other ones) or is it another reason?

Hi!

Is there an easy fix to prevent light from an under the playfield lamp to ”leak” into a nearby lamp? When the red lamp lights up it looks like the yellow c lamp lights as well. I first thought that the diode was busted but the yellow lamp never lights up when the red is lit, it just looks like that due to leakage.

Kinda hard to explain in a second language.

/j

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Guess that never occurred to me when inspecting the lamps earlier today. I’ll try that! Can probably bend it a lot closer.

Thanks!

Not sure what you mean. The red lamp is a led, the yellow is a “non-led”. The red lamp is the culprit though.

oh, nice! This showed up when googleing:
https://www.whitewolfspeedshop.com/product-page/data-east-jurassic-park-light-baffle-kit

looks neat! 30 dollars are maneagable but toll and shipping will probable double that.

Hi!

The diodes in the 555 lamps, can they be replaced with any random diode or are there game specific diodes?

I have a box full of random “non-pinball” diodes and I like to use them to replace my broken ones.

thanks! I ordered a bunch of them from a local electronic distributor, like 20 cents a piece!