Welcome to the the Data East club. This is a more generic DE club, not game specific. Share your thoughts about your favorite Data East games. Post questions if you need help with your game, or if you are just looking for parts.

I think many of the DE are just as fun as the Williams System 11 games.
I currently have 5 DE games

The Simpsons. Very fun game.
Adventures of Rocky and Bullwinkle - A blast to play. It is something different to play.
Jurassic Park (Working on-orignally bought just the cabinet, wiring, and playfield. Now the game boots up. Still hunting for lockdown bar, coin door, Translite.)
Last Action Hero (Folded up waiting to get worked on). Fun game, had one in the past.
Hook (Also another project game with cut playfield wiring. Hope this will be a working game by this summer.)

No. Sega needs its own club.

Would like to see a picture of this.

Interesting

I sure cannot wait until there is a good way to mount the ColorDMD into Rocky and Bullwinkle. That color ROM will be awesome.

Not yet available. The first color ROM just came out for the first Stern game, LOTR. So I think we will be waiting a while on this one.

Pictures...pictures neded. Post your pictures.

What is the problem you are having?
I don't have a coin door on my project JP, and don't recall having the flipper power shut off.
I'll double check though.

No. I just tested this out today on Rocky & Bullwinkle as well as on Jurassic Park. All the coils and flippers work normally with the coin door open.

I believe the switch is just to be able to go into the diagnostic/audit modes.

I like the original LAH translite just as the artist intended.
No alternative artwork for me.

Original translites in decent to good shape are still out there and available now and then.

Anyone have a very nice original Jurassic Park translite to sell?

I enjoyed my DE Star Trek when I had it. Had it for about a year and was bored of the game play.
Play one and you find you like it, buy it. Everyone does not like the same games. It is a personal preference.

XPin is currently working on a replacement DMD for it and expects to have it out probably by the summer 2015. Occasionally, used working DMD's for this game (also used in DE Batman, and Hook) pop up on Ebay. Don't let the DMD decide this for you. I even repaired one for a friend.

Xpin is working on a replacement as well.

With the new Stern Wrestlemania release in 2 months, OOTOgd, will you be adding it next to your DE Royal Rumble?

Looking forward to the day I can install a ColorDMD Sigma display in either Jurassic Park or Rocky/Bullwinkle.

I fit one into Twister for TPF and it looked awesome as you would expectTwister Sigma 2.JPG. It has the same speaker panel as the other 2 games, but does not have a lamp door.Twister Sigma 1.JPG

PPB board in DE games

Congrats on getting 2 DE projects.

Replace C2 on the power supply in both games. If 5 volts is low, it can cause all the coils to fire randomly and blow out fuses. Usually I see the C2 leaked and that eats up the trace/pad below C2.

By driver board, I think you mean the CPU/MPU. They come up on Ebay fairly often, working and non-working ones.

Normally, you can just get the part number out of the manual of what you need and type it into an internet search engine such as Google and it should locate anyone who would stock the part(s). Occasionally, you may have to buy separate parts of an assembly from different sites to get the full assembly of what you need.

Pictures...pictures needed. Post your pictures.
Anyone pick up a DE game recently?

Xpin makes solid replacement power supplies that I trust.
I also have a Simpsons that I would like to get it much better cosmetic condition. I'd just been enjoying playing it a bunch. Good fast playing game. I do like that it doesn't have a ball save. Makes it much more of a challenge to get on that high score table.

No. The power will be in series to all the coils in the line. If power is broken due to a broken wire, you loose power to the remaining coils in the line.

You need to test out the big TIP36C transistors on the PPB board (bottom left board in the backbox). Likely you have one or two that are shorted blowing out the fuse.

Any drag from the plunger inside the coil sleeve can slow it down. On either game, did you ever change the coil sleeve?

I had an issue with a WCS where someone put a regular playfield switch wireform on that kickback that allowed the kicker to activate too soon. The correct one was nothing like what was installed. So I can imagine the manual would show what the wireform should look like on the DE games you mentioned.

No damage would be done to continue playing it. Best thing to do first is to test out all the switches in the switch test and make sure all the switches record. Helps to know if it will narrow down being one switch, a whole row, or whole column.

STU, are you still looking for these items?

I need one for a friend as well.

We are still looking for a TFTC speaker panel.

Some DE playfields made the like to be made.
http://classicplayfields.com/order.html

New product for Batman, Checkpoint, Hook, Star Trek 25th Anniversary, Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles
Replaces Data East Display P/N 520-5042-00

128x16 LED DE displays are now available.
http://bostonpinballcompany.com/Data_East_Displays.htm

Xpin's 128x16 LED DE displays due out in the summer 2016
http://xpinpinball.com/product/xp-dmd2048/

What is it you're doing?

I repaired many DE games (with the original DE power supply) that did not boot up or randomly reset during gameplay/attract mode. I suggest replacing the C2 (100 uf use either 35v or 50 electrolytic capacitor) on the power supply. Due to age and heat from the large heat sink that is above it, it will fail at some point. Replace it now and you'll have less issues with your game later.

Yeah, you may have a problem with your End of Stroke switch on the flipper coil assembly. Lightly sand the EOS switch with fine sandpaper and make sure the contacts are touching when the flippers are at rest.

One of 2 things I would suspect. Either it is one of the 2 ribbon cables or the DMD controller board is becoming an issue.

I would start with the ribbon cables. Reseat them, both sides, not just at the DMD controller, to the DMD and to the MPU boards as well. If that doesn't help, try wiggling the ribbon cables near the connectors while some is test playing the game or just hitting different playfield switches. This is the best way to pinpoint a ribbon cable issue. Most of the time I found the small ribbon cable from the DMD to the DMD controller is the issue.

On the DMD controller, you can wiggle the 2 pin power connector (with red/black wires). Sometimes the issue is one of the 2 wires become loose IDC connector. Other possible problem is broken solder joints on the male 2 pin power connector. Would not hurt to resolder these on the back side of the DMD controller board.

DE Simpsons is in my favorite top 10 (out of 36 I have) so it will stay for a long time. I had it a good 4 years already. I like playing it more than TSPP, which stands good reason I don't have that game.

I actually prefer playing my DE Simpsons over playing my TZ. I like the challenge of not having a ball save on Simpsons. The game keeps me coming back for more, just like all the system 11 games that I own.

Uh...okay..okay..okay!!!

If your DMD draws too much current, this 0.5 amp fuse will blow out.
There is a 8 pin connector on the DMD that you would need to remove to see if the 0.5 amp fuse blows out. The 2 pin red/black connector on the DMD controller board is only 5 volts going to that board.

Did you have an original DE power supply in the game? If so, what was it doing?

Definitely different designs. If you have the power cable disconnected from the DMD, then the Xpin power supply needs to be sent back for warranty repair. You likely want to contact who you bought the board from or contact Xpin directly.

Can you report the voltages you see with the Rottendog power supply at the DMD?

Also, I am wondering what brand is the DMD?

Are the 2 fuses that are attached to the backbox not blown (ones above the big blue capacitor at the bottom of the backbox)?

What type of power supply do you have? Picture will help if you don't know.

Rottendog with Pinsound. You should contact Pinsound for help.
Actually even best to start a repair thread as well with your specific setup.
This will be too much involved to help out on this thread.

Here is one such thread for a reference.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/anyone-use-pinsound-board-with-date-east-games

Yes there are.
ebay.com link: Checkpoint Data East Pinball Decals

CPR already ran some DE Star Wars, DE Star Trek 25th anniversary, and DE Playboy 35th anniversary plastic sets.

http://www.classicplayfields.com/store-plastics.html

Can be bought currently anywhere?

Yep. http://starship-fantasy.com/plastics/Tales-From-the-Crypt

POTA plastic sets also available.
http://starship-fantasy.com/plastics/paginate/36

There are no fuses on switches. If that millions ramp switch is not registering, it either needs adjusting or replacement. This is assuming all other switches in the game are working. Go into the switch test and verify all switches are working. If you have a full row or column of switches not working, then you'll looking at a shorted transistor or IC.

Did you find one? I normally do an internet search using the part number in the manual.

Good news. Colorful LED ColorDMD's are now available for some DE games.
http://shop.colordmd.com/led-displays/

Currently, GNR, Star Wars and Tommy all have their color ROMs released now for the LED display. There would be no need to modify the speaker panel for these too fit either.

Also, you can even purchase a LED ColorDMD and enjoy a single color in Sigma mode which you can choose which color you want the display to be. Once a color ROM is available in the future for your title, then you'll be able to upgrade to full color.

Please note that this color LED display only replaces the 128x32 size DMD.

Sounds like you need to see a doctor.

Torpedo Alley. Now that is one I hadn't played yet.

test out all the switches in the game.

Awesome. Good that you want to help your neighbor.

Do you know if it will start a game?
If a game cannot start, then remove the apron and make sure 3 balls are in the trough area. If not, it will not allow a game to start. Sometimes the ball gets trapped in the playfield area if the game is too flat.

If it will start a game, then check all the fuses on the power supply and on the PPB board. Also check the two fuses mounted directly to the backbox just above the big capacitor sitting at the bottom on the backbox.

I would not rule out one ball is being trapped somewhere because of a broken rubber or plastic.

You need to run the switch tests and coils tests in order to narrow down the problem(s), otherwise we are just guessing where the problem(s) lie. If all the coils fire, likely can be a switch problem may only need to be adjusted. Then again, you can have multiple switches not working because of a single broken wire. Without knowing what all switches are not working, you can go nuts just looking the wiring over. Even a chance a coil is not firing just because of a broken wire.

I think if you can get him to let you look into it with him there, it may drive him to want to keep it longer knowing someone next door can likely help out. If you can get it working, challenge him on a few games. I really do like playing against someone more than I like playing a game by myself.

It is easy to figure out. Very similar to System 11 games. Game manual should take you through the test menu if all else fails.

The alphanumeric displays will display the tests, just as the DMD shows the tests as HSGetaway does. Just a different looking display. Don't let that intimidate you. You can do this. Since you fixed problems on a Williams, use that knowledge to fix the DE game. Similar issues even though technology is a bit older.

Charger500, has he played your Getaway? Time to challenge him to a few games after explaining some of the rules to him. This should get him hooked.

I have yet to play that one.

Welcome to the club. Simpsons is my favorite DE game. I have the new TSPP cooling towers and really love them. My game came with the original towers, but one was broken and I did not even like the looks of them. I sold them on Ebay. 20170212_085847 (resized).jpg

Just a small playfield rubber holds it in place at the top. Everything comes together as a kit.

I wish I remembered where I bought my set about 4 years ago.

The cooling tower kit includes a bracket that you can see behind the red plastic tower for support on top of the pop bumpers. So if you buy only the plastic towers, that will not be all that you need.

You could purchase the parts separately since all the part numbers are listed. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/502-5028-SET

I was not meaning to buy from multiple places. Seems odd Steve has DE parts. I am thinking my tower set may have come from Ebay for $45 those many years ago. Glad you found a set.

Turn on the tower action to yes in the settings. Cool feature.

I changed nothing on my game when I installed the tower kit. Has been working great for 4 years with no issues with the towers. The game even was in 2 Houston Arcade Expo's with them installed.

Sounds as if he was talking about the original towers, like what you have now.

Run a dollar bill through the EOS switch and the flipper button switch on the cabinet. Squeeze tightly on the contacts as you run the bill through them.

Post a picture of the displays with the game on and another with them on. If the segments are dark, likely they are burnt out.

Most clubs are by machine, but I thought a DE club would be more exciting sharing games and experiences.

Link your thread. It will be nice if the thread is answered for anyone to find the solution in the future.

Check the voltages on the sound board. There is at least one voltage generated on the sound board.

Start a new thread on your game with your problems. There's going to be too much involved in getting your issues worked out in this general thread. It will also make it easier for other people to search and find your final fixes.

You need to keep bumping your thread. Also, post the link to your thread here too.

Edit. I see terryb gave you some information and you didn't report back.

Link to the thread so others can help there.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/data-east-playboy-35th-issues

Congrats on LW3. Get Hook as it is a good game.

TFTC released for ColorDMD. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colordmd-announces-game-57-the-beast-is-yet-to-come

Contact whomever repaired the boards.

Does not hurt to send another message to him. My only suggestion would be to,reseat both ends of the sound board ribbon cable at the sound board and at the MPU .

Honestly, I cannot see that being sound ROMs if it worked before sending out the boards, it sounds more like a connection issue which is why I suggested reseating the sound board ribbon cable. Might as well reseat the other cables to the sound board too.

Tried this yet?

ColorDMD just announced color for JP.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colordmd-announces-game-62-this-is-big#post-3885967

Also measure the voltages at the DMD. I suspect you have either -112v, -100v or 62v missing (comes from the power supply)..

Good. NVRAM is an easy install for DE games since the old RAM is already in a socket. http://www.pinitech.com/products/6264_nvram.php

Start with section 4.7.6 to be sure you don't have a burnt wafer connector at CN1. If F7 (1/2amp) fuse is blown on the power supply, no doubt the high voltage section will need to be rebuilt. http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Small_128_x_16_DMD_Display

Also check the 2 (5amp) fuses that are mounted on the metal sheet in the backbox just below the power supply.

Beware of original board Ebay ads. There is a difference between someone selling a pulled working board versus a refurbished one. Pulled working board doesn't mean any parts were changed and still can fail in short term, especially if the smaller electrolytic capacitors were not changed.

Far as aftermarket boards, I would go with a XPin power supply as there have been better long term reliability and many less issues out of the box.

What is wrong with your original MPU?

Do you have the original sound board to put back in to see if your issues go away? Whatever those issues may be.

Very soon, a new large Sigma ColorDMD display will be available for Maverick. So there is some hope now for full color for that game. I suspect it will only be available in the LED display, at least for now.2018-01-30 02_08_07-ColorDMD Pinball Displays - Home - Internet Explorer (resized).png

Obviously the display is for all the large DMD games. I only specifically mentioned Maverick because this is a Data East Club not Sega, so I did not mention Baywatch.

Interesting.

From http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1561
Last pinball produced by Data East, first pinball produced with the 192x64 dot matrix display and 16 bit (68000 driven) dot matrix controller. Production of this game was continued under Sega Pinball, Inc.

WWFRR ColorDMD has been announced. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colordmd-game-73-its-time-to-rumble

There should be a tall metal rod sticking up just to the right inside the coin door. That is your volume control. 20180623_122025 (resized).jpg

I have yet to see one failed. Is there battery corrosion in this area on the board you are working on?

8Mhz on the CPU board. 20180707_114059 (resized).jpg

I hope it works for you upon powering it up. I have my R&B on loan and hoping to get it back soon so that I can install a LED ColorDMD in it and show it off at the Houston Arcade Expo in October. I miss playing that game. Wow Wee!!!

Remove the balls out of the trough, reset all the targets, go into the active switch test (not the regular switch edge test) and see if any switch shows closed.

This test was made to aid in troubleshooting a closed switch which can random cause game play errors. Just because you can see a random tilt during game play, that does not mean that is the switch causing the problem. The right combination of 2 switches in a row or column causes these type of issues.

With the 6 balls out of the trough and targets in the up position, only one switch, going on memory here, that should be registering on this active switch test would be the dinosaur left switch. If any other switches are registering, you need to figure out why, likely switch needs to be adjusted. All switches are normally open in the game, but since the dinosaur left switch is closed because that is its home position, it will be registering. Report what it shows on the screen and we can go from there.

yes. Missed that. I think that hook should not have any switches in the closed position with the balls out of the game

The first test was in the active swich test and not the regular switch edge test?

On the DMD it actually will say 'Active Switch Test'. During this test if you put balls in the trough, it will continuously keep registering the balls as the switches are stuck closed because the balls are holding the switch down.

Yes, your description of the switch edge test is good. Just that this switch test will not show one that is stuck closed, only the switches you press momentarily, like an outlane switch.

I would like to see a picture of the slam tilt switch.

Once back in the active switch test and balls removed, try tapping on the playfield to see if you can anything to show.

Also when you are testing the slingshots, test each of the two switches separately, not by pushing on the slingshot rubber.

ColorDMD for LAH has been announced. I enjoyed beta testing this one. https://mailchi.mp/e0e486780f78/colordmd-announces-game-78-lights-camera-action