(Topic ID: 109642)

Data East pinball club

By PinballManiac40

4 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 1,409 posts
  • 327 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by RatShack
  • Topic is favorited by 159 Pinsiders


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Topic poll

“Do you have any Data East Pinball machines??”

  • Yes, I have one. 368 votes
  • I have one or more. 171 votes
  • Considering buying one or more. 56 votes
  • No, never 32 votes

(Multiple choice - 627 votes by 611 Pinsiders)

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#1 4 years ago

Welcome to the the Data East club. This is a more generic DE club, not game specific. Share your thoughts about your favorite Data East games. Post questions if you need help with your game, or if you are just looking for parts.

I think many of the DE are just as fun as the Williams System 11 games.
I currently have 5 DE games

The Simpsons. Very fun game.
Adventures of Rocky and Bullwinkle - A blast to play. It is something different to play.
Jurassic Park (Working on-orignally bought just the cabinet, wiring, and playfield. Now the game boots up. Still hunting for lockdown bar, coin door, Translite.)
Last Action Hero (Folded up waiting to get worked on). Fun game, had one in the past.
Hook (Also another project game with cut playfield wiring. Hope this will be a working game by this summer.)

#7 4 years ago
Quoted from bam10:

Do Sega games count?

No. Sega needs its own club.

#19 4 years ago
Quoted from Dayhuff:

G n R ( with a original prototype translight ).

Would like to see a picture of this.

#21 4 years ago


#23 4 years ago

I sure cannot wait until there is a good way to mount the ColorDMD into Rocky and Bullwinkle. That color ROM will be awesome.

#27 4 years ago
Quoted from dsmoke1986:

What color rom? I just got my R&B, love it, color DMD would be killer!

Not yet available. The first color ROM just came out for the first Stern game, LOTR. So I think we will be waiting a while on this one.

#28 4 years ago

Pictures...pictures neded. Post your pictures.

#48 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinballocks:

Question DE owners/ops. Are these pins notorious for failing coin door high power switches?
Both of my DE pins, LW3 & JP have bad switches. Or should I be looking elsewhere?
Thanks in advance,

What is the problem you are having?
I don't have a coin door on my project JP, and don't recall having the flipper power shut off.
I'll double check though.

#58 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinballocks:

Isn't the power to the PF coils & flashers cut off by opening the coin door during gameplay?

No. I just tested this out today on Rocky & Bullwinkle as well as on Jurassic Park. All the coils and flippers work normally with the coin door open.

I believe the switch is just to be able to go into the diagnostic/audit modes.

1 week later
#62 4 years ago

I like the original LAH translite just as the artist intended.
No alternative artwork for me.

#67 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Fine and dandy if yours is in good shape, mine had a zillion cracks in the ink it was so dry. Looked REALLY bad so I had to get an alt.

Original translites in decent to good shape are still out there and available now and then.

#69 4 years ago

Anyone have a very nice original Jurassic Park translite to sell?

#77 4 years ago
Quoted from GPS:

Hi Guys,
Glad that i ran across this post. Have a few questions of those who are Data East aficionados; I had discovered a Star Trek made by Data East and was very interested in it as I think it might have been the original one with Kirk and Spock. When I did some checking on the machine I was told to stay away from it. I was told that the display, should it fail, cannot be replaced as there are no aftermarket parts available and further, that Data East was sort of the "third player" in the game and their quality was not nearly what a Williams or Gottlieb would be of the same era. Would love some input from those that are really familiar and can offer some unbiased as possible feedback here.
Thank you,

I enjoyed my DE Star Trek when I had it. Had it for about a year and was bored of the game play.
Play one and you find you like it, buy it. Everyone does not like the same games. It is a personal preference.

XPin is currently working on a replacement DMD for it and expects to have it out probably by the summer 2015. Occasionally, used working DMD's for this game (also used in DE Batman, and Hook) pop up on Ebay. Don't let the DMD decide this for you. I even repaired one for a friend.

1 week later
#89 4 years ago
Quoted from FirebrandX:

PinLED makes new versions of those 128x16 displays, but they are very expensive:

Xpin is working on a replacement as well.

3 weeks later
#91 4 years ago

With the new Stern Wrestlemania release in 2 months, OOTOgd, will you be adding it next to your DE Royal Rumble?

2 months later
#173 4 years ago

Looking forward to the day I can install a ColorDMD Sigma display in either Jurassic Park or Rocky/Bullwinkle.

I fit one into Twister for TPF and it looked awesome as you would expectTwister Sigma 2.JPG. It has the same speaker panel as the other 2 games, but does not have a lamp door.Twister Sigma 1.JPG

1 month later
#187 4 years ago

PPB board in DE games

#188 4 years ago
Quoted from Billc479:

I just picked up a Star Wars and Jurassic Park. Very Excited about them.
SW is missing the entire mechanism to raise and lower the target to the Death Star, so its always open. Does anyone know where I can get the parts to fix this, including brackets?
JP was DOA, I've ordered some parts for the PPB, along with lots of fuses - it looks like someone was tinkering with it, and managed to blow seven fuses. JP is also missing the shaker motor assembly, including the driver board for it. Does anyone know if the current shaker motor from Stern is a "Plug & Play" replacement?
I have never worked on DE machines, so this will be a learning curve. I hope everyone will be patient with a DE newbe.

Congrats on getting 2 DE projects.

Replace C2 on the power supply in both games. If 5 volts is low, it can cause all the coils to fire randomly and blow out fuses. Usually I see the C2 leaked and that eats up the trace/pad below C2.

By driver board, I think you mean the CPU/MPU. They come up on Ebay fairly often, working and non-working ones.

#193 4 years ago
Quoted from Billc479:

SW is missing the entire mechanism to raise and lower the target to the Death Star, so its always open. Does anyone know where I can get the parts to fix this, including brackets?
JP is also missing the shaker motor assembly, including the driver board for it. Does anyone know if the current shaker motor from Stern is a "Plug & Play" replacement?.

Normally, you can just get the part number out of the manual of what you need and type it into an internet search engine such as Google and it should locate anyone who would stock the part(s). Occasionally, you may have to buy separate parts of an assembly from different sites to get the full assembly of what you need.

1 month later
#243 4 years ago

Pictures...pictures needed. Post your pictures.
Anyone pick up a DE game recently?

#246 4 years ago

Xpin makes solid replacement power supplies that I trust.
I also have a Simpsons that I would like to get it much better cosmetic condition. I'd just been enjoying playing it a bunch. Good fast playing game. I do like that it doesn't have a ball save. Makes it much more of a challenge to get on that high score table.

1 week later
#260 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Here's a question. If power has stopped to two coils, does that extra power go to the other coils?

No. The power will be in series to all the coils in the line. If power is broken due to a broken wire, you loose power to the remaining coils in the line.

#261 4 years ago
Quoted from woody24:

Currently have VUK and Autoplunger problems, and the F8 fuse keeps blowing

You need to test out the big TIP36C transistors on the PPB board (bottom left board in the backbox). Likely you have one or two that are shorted blowing out the fuse.

3 weeks later
#274 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Guys, a quick tech question:
I"ve owned a GNR and now a Time Machine. On both pins, the laser kick is weak. I've inspected both, and can't seem to find anything mechanically wrong with the coil/assembly, sleeve, etc.
I'm wondering if anyone has a solution. I'm starting to think it's the timing of the kick that causes a sometimes-weak kick. Perhaps the switch wire is being activated too early when the ball hits it, causing the ball not to be stuck at the right time, etc.
Any thoughts? These laser kicks are annoying to fix.

Any drag from the plunger inside the coil sleeve can slow it down. On either game, did you ever change the coil sleeve?

#278 4 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

I've read a lot about how fast the ball comes down that lane. If it comes down fast, the kickback will zing it out... but if slow, it's bobble it a bit. All has to do with the alignment of the switch arm.

I had an issue with a WCS where someone put a regular playfield switch wireform on that kickback that allowed the kicker to activate too soon. The correct one was nothing like what was installed. So I can imagine the manual would show what the wireform should look like on the DE games you mentioned.

#281 4 years ago
Quoted from Hazoff:

I made a thread for this but figured I'll post it here as well, I got a Tilt Reset message today on my Secret Service the game just stops and that message is displayed, you have to turn off and on to start a game again, I can't find what that error means anywhere and just played a full game now and it didn't happen? I don't want to do damage to the boards or something, its not the tilt because that mechanism is missing in my game, just started today after 50 plus error free games? Anyway any advice is appreciated, and this game is highly, highly underrated.

No damage would be done to continue playing it. Best thing to do first is to test out all the switches in the switch test and make sure all the switches record. Helps to know if it will narrow down being one switch, a whole row, or whole column.

2 months later
#283 3 years ago
Quoted from Stu:

DE Fans:
My collection currently consists of: Tommy, Guns-N-Roses, Star Wars, Star Trek, and Playboy 35th.
I have new vector artwork completed for the following CPR Repro Playfields:
Tommy, Guns-N-Roses, Star Trek
I'm currently working on the Playfield artwork for: DE Star Wars
If anyone has an NOS Playfield for the following DE Titles please PM me directly and I'll be happy to add them to our line-up.....
1. DE Batman Playfield
2. DE Rocky & Bullwinkle Playfield
3. DE Phantom of the Opera Playfield
4. DE Jurassic Park Playfield
5. DE Checkpoint Playfield
Also looking for source material for the following DE Plastics Sets ( NOS or Near Perfect Only! )
1. DE Batman
2. DE Rocky & Bullwinkle
3. DE Tommy
4. DE Checkpoint
I already have Playfield source material for DE Simpsons & Tales from the Crypt.
We are also doing Tales from the Crypt Plastics.....
CPR Art Director / Partner

DE Playfields_CPR.jpg

STU, are you still looking for these items?

1 month later
#316 3 years ago
Quoted from pinwhoo:

Does anyone have a dmd/speaker panel for tftc or similar game?

I need one for a friend as well.

3 months later
#345 3 years ago
Quoted from pinwhoo:

Does anyone have a dmd/speaker panel for tftc or similar game?

Quoted from PinballManiac40:

I need one for a friend as well.

We are still looking for a TFTC speaker panel.

#347 3 years ago

Some DE playfields made the like to be made.

1 month later
#361 3 years ago

New product for Batman, Checkpoint, Hook, Star Trek 25th Anniversary, Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles
Replaces Data East Display P/N 520-5042-00

128x16 LED DE displays are now available.

Xpin's 128x16 LED DE displays due out in the summer 2016

#364 3 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

My latest project...

What is it you're doing?

#370 3 years ago

I repaired many DE games (with the original DE power supply) that did not boot up or randomly reset during gameplay/attract mode. I suggest replacing the C2 (100 uf use either 35v or 50 electrolytic capacitor) on the power supply. Due to age and heat from the large heat sink that is above it, it will fail at some point. Replace it now and you'll have less issues with your game later.

#372 3 years ago
Quoted from Shock-King:

Hey guys, my Data East simpsons has a slight problem with the left flipper. Every once and awhile the flipper will just stop working. I tried adjusting the switch itself but it still does it. Do you think this problem is the switch itself? Or possible something else. Thanks for any advice. Ron

Yeah, you may have a problem with your End of Stroke switch on the flipper coil assembly. Lightly sand the EOS switch with fine sandpaper and make sure the contacts are touching when the flippers are at rest.

#374 3 years ago
Quoted from Insane:

I have a problem with my R&B, the i witnessed the same problem on a Lethal Weapon at the VFW show. When i get a lot going on, multiball, etc, i lose the display. Sometimes i still get some animations, just no scores. Most of teh time, nothing. Until i lose the ball, then it shows Sherman doing the totals, then when the next ball starts, all is fine again. Ideas... I have recently installed an Xpin power supply, which seemed to make the problem less, but still there. I have to repin some connectors, and maybe that is it, just haven't done it yet. Thought i'd see if others have had the same issue and what fixed it.

One of 2 things I would suspect. Either it is one of the 2 ribbon cables or the DMD controller board is becoming an issue.

I would start with the ribbon cables. Reseat them, both sides, not just at the DMD controller, to the DMD and to the MPU boards as well. If that doesn't help, try wiggling the ribbon cables near the connectors while some is test playing the game or just hitting different playfield switches. This is the best way to pinpoint a ribbon cable issue. Most of the time I found the small ribbon cable from the DMD to the DMD controller is the issue.

On the DMD controller, you can wiggle the 2 pin power connector (with red/black wires). Sometimes the issue is one of the 2 wires become loose IDC connector. Other possible problem is broken solder joints on the male 2 pin power connector. Would not hurt to resolder these on the back side of the DMD controller board.

1 week later
#381 3 years ago

DE Simpsons is in my favorite top 10 (out of 36 I have) so it will stay for a long time. I had it a good 4 years already. I like playing it more than TSPP, which stands good reason I don't have that game.

2 weeks later
#417 3 years ago

I actually prefer playing my DE Simpsons over playing my TZ. I like the challenge of not having a ball save on Simpsons. The game keeps me coming back for more, just like all the system 11 games that I own.

1 week later
#428 3 years ago
Quoted from Mahoyvan:

Recently got myself my first DE - Lethal Weapon 3. LOVE IT!


2 weeks later
#437 3 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

Hi guys
Can anyone please tell me
On the x-pin power supply, the 0,5 amp fuse what is all conected to this?
my dmd went out, but even when disconect red/black power conector for dmd
the 0,5 fuse blows on start up.
rest of pin seems to work good.
also posted at jurassic park club
any help apreciated

If your DMD draws too much current, this 0.5 amp fuse will blow out.
There is a 8 pin connector on the DMD that you would need to remove to see if the 0.5 amp fuse blows out. The 2 pin red/black connector on the DMD controller board is only 5 volts going to that board.

Did you have an original DE power supply in the game? If so, what was it doing?

#443 3 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

anyone any idea why the 0.5 amp fuse blows, even when dmd not connected?
and why not on the rottendog board?

Quoted from jorro:

but even with all dmd cables unhooked, when i power up imedeatly the 0.5 fuse blows on xpin

Definitely different designs. If you have the power cable disconnected from the DMD, then the Xpin power supply needs to be sent back for warranty repair. You likely want to contact who you bought the board from or contact Xpin directly.

Can you report the voltages you see with the Rottendog power supply at the DMD?

Also, I am wondering what brand is the DMD?

Are the 2 fuses that are attached to the backbox not blown (ones above the big blue capacitor at the bottom of the backbox)?

2 weeks later
#451 3 years ago
Quoted from shicketmaster:

NeedHelp....I'm getting a popping sound through my speakers that is synchronized to the rapid flashing of the LEDs.

What type of power supply do you have? Picture will help if you don't know.

#453 3 years ago
Quoted from shicketmaster:

NeedHelp....I'm getting a popping sound through my speakers that is synchronized to the rapid flashing of the LEDs. Not the flashing that makes you think your going to have a seizure from the GI lighting but instead the flashing of the skill shot lights or the flashing of the scoop target lighting. I have flipper fidelity speakers and a pinsound board. I used to have a similar problem related to the rope lights but I fixed a short and then the popping sound went away. I'm not talking about the data east hum either, this is a distinct pop with every flash.

Quoted from PinballManiac40:

What type of power supply do you have? Picture will help if you don't know.

Rottendog with Pinsound. You should contact Pinsound for help.
Actually even best to start a repair thread as well with your specific setup.
This will be too much involved to help out on this thread.

Here is one such thread for a reference.

1 month later
#469 3 years ago
Quoted from Gryphun:

No checkpoint decals either...no worries though, in the Checkpoint club a decal run is currently underway

Yes there are.
ebay.com link » Checkpoint Data East Pinball Decals

1 week later
#473 3 years ago
Quoted from Buzz:

Data East love. Someone should start to do plastics.

CPR already ran some DE Star Wars, DE Star Trek 25th anniversary, and DE Playboy 35th anniversary plastic sets.


#476 3 years ago
Quoted from Billy16:

TFTC plastics have also been reproduced and turned out very nice.

Can be bought currently anywhere?

#477 3 years ago
Quoted from Billy16:

TFTC plastics have also been reproduced and turned out very nice.

Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Can be bought currently anywhere?

Yep. http://starship-fantasy.com/plastics/Tales-From-the-Crypt

2 weeks later
#483 3 years ago

There are no fuses on switches. If that millions ramp switch is not registering, it either needs adjusting or replacement. This is assuming all other switches in the game are working. Go into the switch test and verify all switches are working. If you have a full row or column of switches not working, then you'll looking at a shorted transistor or IC.

1 month later
#487 2 years ago
Quoted from Snwbrdrmidget15:

Thank you, I am fairly new at this troubleshooting repairs.....do you know where I can find a replacement switch if its just the one that has gone bad? I can't seem to find myself.

Did you find one? I normally do an internet search using the part number in the manual.

#488 2 years ago

Good news. Colorful LED ColorDMD's are now available for some DE games.

Currently, GNR, Star Wars and Tommy all have their color ROMs released now for the LED display. There would be no need to modify the speaker panel for these too fit either.

Also, you can even purchase a LED ColorDMD and enjoy a single color in Sigma mode which you can choose which color you want the display to be. Once a color ROM is available in the future for your title, then you'll be able to upgrade to full color.

Please note that this color LED display only replaces the 128x32 size DMD.

#491 2 years ago
Quoted from Rondogg:

(cough, cough) Jurassic Park (cough)

Sounds like you need to see a doctor.

1 month later
#497 2 years ago

Torpedo Alley. Now that is one I hadn't played yet.

1 week later
#500 2 years ago
Quoted from PeoriaKid:

I just installed a new Pinsound board in my DE Star Trek. Followed the instructions to the letter, but when I turn in back on, the start button doesn't work. It's set up on free play.
All the lights and DMD are working fine. Any ideas?

test out all the switches in the game.

#504 2 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

My good friend and neighbor has a The Simpsons. I haven't seen the pin in years but after I got a The Getaway HS2. I tried talking him into fixing his so I'd have another pin to play. He says it have ball switch error and won't kick a ball out to the plunger. Seems like a simple enough problem. Anyone here had this problem and could suggest how to fix it. I'll continue to try and get him to join Pinside but I'm not sure he has that much interest.

Awesome. Good that you want to help your neighbor.

Do you know if it will start a game?
If a game cannot start, then remove the apron and make sure 3 balls are in the trough area. If not, it will not allow a game to start. Sometimes the ball gets trapped in the playfield area if the game is too flat.

If it will start a game, then check all the fuses on the power supply and on the PPB board. Also check the two fuses mounted directly to the backbox just above the big capacitor sitting at the bottom on the backbox.

3 weeks later
#516 2 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

I saw the pin tonight. When you press Start it says 2 balls are missing, does a system ball check, and then it won't kick a ball to the plunger. I see a ball ready to go to the plunger. So without me taking off the glass and checking for the other two balls, what do y'all think Is the issue? I did do a nudge in case the two missing balls were somehow stuck, but nothing happened.

Quoted from Charger500:

Thanks. Seems like a simple fix. I'm trying to get him to fix it. I offered to help again last night. I think they want to sell, though. Or fix it then sell. They are just not into it anymore, it seems. Shame. I want a second pin, but I don't think I want this one.

I would not rule out one ball is being trapped somewhere because of a broken rubber or plastic.

You need to run the switch tests and coils tests in order to narrow down the problem(s), otherwise we are just guessing where the problem(s) lie. If all the coils fire, likely can be a switch problem may only need to be adjusted. Then again, you can have multiple switches not working because of a single broken wire. Without knowing what all switches are not working, you can go nuts just looking the wiring over. Even a chance a coil is not firing just because of a broken wire.

I think if you can get him to let you look into it with him there, it may drive him to want to keep it longer knowing someone next door can likely help out. If you can get it working, challenge him on a few games. I really do like playing against someone more than I like playing a game by myself.

#518 2 years ago
Quoted from Charger500:

Thanks. I only have limited knowledge of Williams games. I know how to perform a switch on my Getaway HS2 , but how do I perform a switch test on a Data East Simpsons? Maybe it's less intuitive since it doesn't have a DMD to show the tests. Excuse my ignorance here.

It is easy to figure out. Very similar to System 11 games. Game manual should take you through the test menu if all else fails.

#519 2 years ago

The alphanumeric displays will display the tests, just as the DMD shows the tests as HSGetaway does. Just a different looking display. Don't let that intimidate you. You can do this. Since you fixed problems on a Williams, use that knowledge to fix the DE game. Similar issues even though technology is a bit older.

#521 2 years ago

Charger500, has he played your Getaway? Time to challenge him to a few games after explaining some of the rules to him. This should get him hooked.

1 week later
#526 2 years ago
Quoted from ltd73:

Torpedo Alley started my love for "unlicensed" DE titles.

I have yet to play that one.

1 week later
#541 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

I'm back in the club!
I had a tmnt and had to sell it a while back.
But now I have a Simpsons and it needs some love, I'm sure I'll be asking a few questions here about it.

Edit: ok, first question... what do I do about the red cooling towers ?
They're broken, do I need to buy the tspp cooling towers and try something there?

Welcome to the club. Simpsons is my favorite DE game. I have the new TSPP cooling towers and really love them. My game came with the original towers, but one was broken and I did not even like the looks of them. I sold them on Ebay. 20170212_085847 (resized).jpg

#543 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Wow those look great!
How did you attach them?

Just a small playfield rubber holds it in place at the top. Everything comes together as a kit.

#547 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Is it the kit from Marco ? Looks like they're sold out
Looks like pinballlife has the red towers

I wish I remembered where I bought my set about 4 years ago.

#549 2 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

I wish I remembered where I bought my set about 4 years ago.

The cooling tower kit includes a bracket that you can see behind the red plastic tower for support on top of the pop bumpers. So if you buy only the plastic towers, that will not be all that you need.

#550 2 years ago

You could purchase the parts separately since all the part numbers are listed. http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/502-5028-SET

#558 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Turns out... Steve Young has the kit, and is cheaper to buy the kit vs put one together and he has the red towers, marco only has the gray towers... yea! I love to pay separate shipping charges between 3 companies!!!

I was not meaning to buy from multiple places. Seems odd Steve has DE parts. I am thinking my tower set may have come from Ebay for $45 those many years ago. Glad you found a set.

Turn on the tower action to yes in the settings. Cool feature.

#561 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Are you saying I should change the pop bumper bodies to the williams?

I changed nothing on my game when I installed the tower kit. Has been working great for 4 years with no issues with the towers. The game even was in 2 Houston Arcade Expo's with them installed.

Sounds as if he was talking about the original towers, like what you have now.

2 weeks later
#573 2 years ago
Quoted from corey0827:

Got my secret service running works great wanna thank those of u that helped... Played for awile, now my left flipper is very slow any ideas on what to look at im considering the rebuild kits

Run a dollar bill through the EOS switch and the flipper button switch on the cabinet. Squeeze tightly on the contacts as you run the bill through them.

#574 2 years ago
Quoted from corey0827:

ok got the secret service game going thanks to yall ... love it had some flipper fade on left flipper checked and am going to do 3 rebuild kits with solenoids ..... my other question is does anybody know how to check the chip on the display i can handle the logic's but the buffer's are beside me i'm trying to check the udn7180a in positions u9,u10,and u14 looking to see if ya'll would know the ranges of output voltages for that also trying to figure out the udn6118a-1 chips in positions u11,u12,u13,u15 also the 4 cd4050bcn chips in positions u3,u4,u5,u6 looking for what should be coming in and leaving on these chips depending on the state of on or off any knowledge would be very helpful also is there a good way for checking the 7 digit alphanumeric displays and the 7 digit numeric displays off of the board , thanks trying to determine if i should just buy the new display if the displays are good i would like to replace chips and resistors as apposed to spending a lot of money unless i absolutely need to ........

Post a picture of the displays with the game on and another with them on. If the segments are dark, likely they are burnt out.

#576 2 years ago
Quoted from Meloyelo51:

Didn't know I was missing out on a club....Thought it was just by machine

Most clubs are by machine, but I thought a DE club would be more exciting sharing games and experiences.

#582 2 years ago
Quoted from Monk:

I made a new thread for this, but nobody responded. I thought maybe somebody in here could help.
I know this has been asked before, but I have yet to see a solution to the problem. TMNT has 3 settings for lighting the TURTLES letters:
Easy: Any lit letters from previous game stay lit for the next played game.
Factory: Any lit letter stays lit between each of the three ball until the game is over, but after the third ball and the game is over the letters reset for the next game.
Hard: Any letter lit on one played ball resets before the next ball.
The problem is the factory setting doesn't seem to work. The factory setting acts like the hard setting. I believe this feature worked correctly before I changed the batteries for the first time and did a factory reset (it was at least three years ago so I can't remember). I have gone through the adjustments and have found nothing. I pulled both the 5B and 5C PROM and reinstalled them. It is the most up to date code I know of 1.04. Does anyone know how to solve this issue as I have been looking for the solution on and off for years. Thank you for any input you wizards can come up with.

Link your thread. It will be nice if the thread is answered for anyone to find the solution in the future.

1 week later
#650 2 years ago
Quoted from metalkatt:

Wondering if anyone ever had problems with their sound board playing the sounds but no music? I have a playboy 35th and can't seem to get any music out of it...i get most of the sounds, though. And the weird thing is, I have a second board and it does the same thing...sound but no game music. I thought it might be the flat cable that runs to MPU but no luck on that, either.

Check the voltages on the sound board. There is at least one voltage generated on the sound board.

#657 2 years ago
Quoted from metalkatt:

Thank you for both responses to my issue. I installed Rottendog MPU, so I can't imagine it's that. I do think it must be a voltage thing.... What is the easiest way to check the voltage on the sound board? I know my voltage must not be high enough because my flippers are machine gunning, too, which leads me to believe I'm not getting the 9 volts required to hold them in place. It's driving me crazy because the power board is a new Xpin and when I check the voltage at the test points on that board they seem fine.......

Start a new thread on your game with your problems. There's going to be too much involved in getting your issues worked out in this general thread. It will also make it easier for other people to search and find your final fixes.

#659 2 years ago
Quoted from metalkatt:

I tried that.... No one responded to it. But, now I have some ideas other than mine to go with.... It was either that or lose my mind!!

You need to keep bumping your thread. Also, post the link to your thread here too.

Edit. I see terryb gave you some information and you didn't report back.

Link to the thread so others can help there.

3 weeks later
#685 2 years ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Thoughts on Hook? Probably getting one this weekend.
I'm in the club with my LW3!

Congrats on LW3. Get Hook as it is a good game.

1 month later
#735 2 years ago
Quoted from OrangeSC:

Just had my POTO boards serviced. After putting everything back together some of the voice sounds are not working. It no longer says "I am the Phantom of the Opera" and a few other things. Could this be as simple as a bad eprom or does anyone have a different idea of what's wrong? Thanks.

Contact whomever repaired the boards.

#737 2 years ago

Does not hurt to send another message to him. My only suggestion would be to,reseat both ends of the sound board ribbon cable at the sound board and at the MPU .

#740 2 years ago
Quoted from OrangeSC:

Thanks. We are going to patiently wait for him to return from vacation. I am pretty sure it's the EPROMs but I've been wrong before.

Honestly, I cannot see that being sound ROMs if it worked before sending out the boards, it sounds more like a connection issue which is why I suggested reseating the sound board ribbon cable. Might as well reseat the other cables to the sound board too.

2 weeks later
#747 2 years ago
Quoted from OrangeSC:

Just had my POTO boards serviced. After putting everything back together some of the voice sounds are not working. It no longer says "I am the Phantom of the Opera" and a few other things. Could this be as simple as a bad eprom or does anyone have a different idea of what's wrong? Thanks.

Tried this yet?

Quoted from PinballManiac40:

reseat both ends of the sound board ribbon cable at the sound board and at the MPU .

2 months later
3 weeks later
#799 2 years ago
Quoted from hawkeyexx:

Sorry the person purchased the pin new in 92. I did Google about the DMD becoming gas out. The pin was put up for auction because the owner was moving. I will post some photos of when I get it on its legs.

Also measure the voltages at the DMD. I suspect you have either -112v, -100v or 62v missing (comes from the power supply)..

#801 2 years ago
Quoted from hawkeyexx:

Thanks for posting I was going to do voltage test before buying a new DMD. I'm going to install NVRAM.

Good. NVRAM is an easy install for DE games since the old RAM is already in a socket. http://www.pinitech.com/products/6264_nvram.php

Start with section 4.7.6 to be sure you don't have a burnt wafer connector at CN1. If F7 (1/2amp) fuse is blown on the power supply, no doubt the high voltage section will need to be rebuilt. http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Data_East/Sega#Small_128_x_16_DMD_Display

Also check the 2 (5amp) fuses that are mounted on the metal sheet in the backbox just below the power supply.

3 weeks later
#815 2 years ago
Quoted from davebart5:

Hey fellow club members... quick question and seeking advice on something.
I'm wanting to replace my PPB board for my TFTC, and there are the obvious choices from a variety of sellers like Rottendog for $125, Xpin for $159, and then you have the random eBay seller who has refurbished ones for $65 give or take. Normally, I don't mind treating my game to nice things and get the Xpin, but I'd like to see if anyone knows of any other outlets, like reputable pinheads who service and sell refurbished boards?
If nothing comes up, I'm fine going with Xpin, as they have free shipping all this month and their products seem to have a good following.
Any advice or thoughts is much appreciated!

Beware of original board Ebay ads. There is a difference between someone selling a pulled working board versus a refurbished one. Pulled working board doesn't mean any parts were changed and still can fail in short term, especially if the smaller electrolytic capacitors were not changed.

Far as aftermarket boards, I would go with a XPin power supply as there have been better long term reliability and many less issues out of the box.

3 months later
#860 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

Question for the club. Does anyone have a pinsound board and a rotten dog mpu on the same game? I’m having issues and am not getting any support from pinsound guys. Wondering if this combo works for anyone. Thanks

What is wrong with your original MPU?

#866 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballTilt:

I got this game with replacement boards. Both the power supply and mpu are aftermarket.

Do you have the original sound board to put back in to see if your issues go away? Whatever those issues may be.

3 weeks later
#882 1 year ago

Very soon, a new large Sigma ColorDMD display will be available for Maverick. So there is some hope now for full color for that game. I suspect it will only be available in the LED display, at least for now.2018-01-30 02_08_07-ColorDMD Pinball Displays - Home - Internet Explorer (resized).png

#884 1 year ago

Obviously the display is for all the large DMD games. I only specifically mentioned Maverick because this is a Data East Club not Sega, so I did not mention Baywatch.

#887 1 year ago


From http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1561
Last pinball produced by Data East, first pinball produced with the 192x64 dot matrix display and 16 bit (68000 driven) dot matrix controller. Production of this game was continued under Sega Pinball, Inc.

1 month later
2 months later
#964 1 year ago
Quoted from ab1944:

I've just purchased a tales of the crypt machine. Is there a volume adjustment on it, and if so where? please rsvp....thanks.

There should be a tall metal rod sticking up just to the right inside the coin door. That is your volume control. 20180623_122025 (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#969 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Does anyone happen to have a good picture of the CPU clock area on the Data East CPU board? I am trying to get a Rocky and Bullwinkle going this morning and trying to confirm the specs on the crystal oscillator.
Thank you!

I have yet to see one failed. Is there battery corrosion in this area on the board you are working on?

#971 1 year ago

8Mhz on the CPU board. 20180707_114059 (resized).jpg

#973 1 year ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Thank you! That helps confirm the orientation too. If all goes well I may be able to try it out later today.

I hope it works for you upon powering it up. I have my R&B on loan and hoping to get it back soon so that I can install a LED ColorDMD in it and show it off at the Houston Arcade Expo in October. I miss playing that game. Wow Wee!!!

#980 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

hook machine,,, getting slam tilt whenever skill shot upper switch 1 gets activated , no obvious loose wire that I can see, looked at switch matrix chart both are on row 7, my simple and probably incorrect conclusion is that somewhere there is a short to the slam tilt switch? any ideas on how to proceed? thanks

Remove the balls out of the trough, reset all the targets, go into the active switch test (not the regular switch edge test) and see if any switch shows closed.

#982 1 year ago

This test was made to aid in troubleshooting a closed switch which can random cause game play errors. Just because you can see a random tilt during game play, that does not mean that is the switch causing the problem. The right combination of 2 switches in a row or column causes these type of issues.

With the 6 balls out of the trough and targets in the up position, only one switch, going on memory here, that should be registering on this active switch test would be the dinosaur left switch. If any other switches are registering, you need to figure out why, likely switch needs to be adjusted. All switches are normally open in the game, but since the dinosaur left switch is closed because that is its home position, it will be registering. Report what it shows on the screen and we can go from there.

#984 1 year ago

yes. Missed that. I think that hook should not have any switches in the closed position with the balls out of the game

#986 1 year ago

The first test was in the active swich test and not the regular switch edge test?

#988 1 year ago

On the DMD it actually will say 'Active Switch Test'. During this test if you put balls in the trough, it will continuously keep registering the balls as the switches are stuck closed because the balls are holding the switch down.

Yes, your description of the switch edge test is good. Just that this switch test will not show one that is stuck closed, only the switches you press momentarily, like an outlane switch.

I would like to see a picture of the slam tilt switch.

#990 1 year ago

Once back in the active switch test and balls removed, try tapping on the playfield to see if you can anything to show.

Also when you are testing the slingshots, test each of the two switches separately, not by pushing on the slingshot rubber.

#992 1 year ago

ColorDMD for LAH has been announced. I enjoyed beta testing this one. https://mailchi.mp/e0e486780f78/colordmd-announces-game-78-lights-camera-action

#997 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballjj:

posted my trouble shooting issues in tech so it has a separate thread , look like board issue, thanks for all the input and feel free to provide your thoughts !

Can you post a link to your thread? It would be easier to search for others in the future with similar issues.

1 month later
#1007 1 year ago
Quoted from Zablon:

Hey everyone,
Hoping someone can guide me here.
I am working on a Time Machine that powers up lights, but nothing else. Watched a lot of videos and read a lot of threads and I tracked it to the PS board +5v is only putting out about 2v on the TP and CN6. 12v appears normal.
Rectifier and power coming in seems good as well.
So far here is what I've found:
I am going to replace the C2(bad), C3(looks like it was okay but going to just replace it anyway) , C4 most videos say to go ahead and replace it), Broke F1 fuse holder clip so will replace that.
I checked the diodes and D6 and D8 were showing values both ways. I took them out of the circuit and they are showing only 1 way so I assume that means they are good. My question is, is it normal for these two to show both ways in the circuit? Is this a symptom of another issue I need to look for?
Also unclear how to check 2N6057 on the heat sink. I see lots of people say to check it for 5v problems. I tried checking it using the wire leads on the board(C,E,B) as a transistor (not powered, out of the pin), but I'm not really clear if I'm doing it right.
Thanks for any assistance.

Yes, I would change those 3 capacitors and fuse clip first and see what it does. Very likely it will come up running if CN1 does not have any burnt pins.

#1009 1 year ago
Quoted from Zablon:

I checked the diodes and D6 and D8 were showing values both ways. I took them out of the circuit and they are showing only 1 way so I assume that means they are good. My question is, is it normal for these two to show both ways in the circuit? Is this a symptom of another issue I need to look for?
Also unclear how to check 2N6057 on the heat sink. I see lots of people say to check it for 5v problems. I tried checking it using the wire leads on the board(C,E,B) as a transistor (not powered, out of the pin), but I'm not really clear if I'm doing it right.

The circuit depends on how it makes the diodes react in the board which is why you do have to remove them in some cases. Might as well install two new diodes if you have them on hand.

From my experience I have not seen too many to 2N6057 transitions bad so I would just leave it for now.

Some of the capacitors are very hard to get out of the board without damaging it. But the three you asked about I definitely would replace right now

#1019 1 year ago
Quoted from newovad:

Okay Data East people, where should these grounding wires be connected? I feel like they shouldn't just be hanging out in the backbox. Thanks
[quoted image][quoted image]

Goes to 2 of the 4 screws that hold the DMD in place.

2 weeks later
#1037 1 year ago

TFTC manual should show all fuses used in the game.

#1048 1 year ago
Quoted from TheHueManatee:

I can get in diagnostics and cycle through no problem...but when I press in the other button I still get the diagnostics menu.

Once in attract mode, press the green button. It should be out for the adjustment menu, and in for the diagnostic menu. Then press the other, normally red, button. This is covered in the manual.

#1050 1 year ago
Quoted from TheHueManatee:

None of those things worked. But pressing and holding down the white coin door switch and then pressing the green + black buttons got it into adjustments. It's finicky but it worked. Thanks guys

Sounds like you need new switches. The white coin door one is the interlock switch that should signal when the door is open when the switch is open. There is not a wire came loose on the back of the white one?

#1052 1 year ago
Quoted from TheHueManatee:

No there is no loose wire, that's why I took is apart. Everything seems ok.
But when I open the coin door it doesn't automatically go to audit mode
Maybe the switches need replacing?

It will not go into audit or diagnostic mode on its own. When you press the other button, other than the green one, should enter whichever menu depending on the up/down selection of the green switch. The white interlock also supposed to cut power to the coils when the coin door is open.

#1053 1 year ago

You can test continuity with a meter to know if the switches are working.

#1056 1 year ago

I have a flaky select menu switch I need to replace on my DE Simpsons. Most times I have to press it several times to get it to work. Contact spray may work temporarily on it if it is just dirty but will not help if the contacts inside are worn.

#1058 1 year ago

Can you go into the switch edge test and see if the white coin door switch registers? That sounds opposite of what it should be doing.

#1060 1 year ago

What about pressing the green and the white switches at the same time?

#1062 1 year ago

Might be good time to test all the switches in the game in the switch edge test.

#1064 1 year ago

Do you have LEDs or a LED ColorDMD installed in your game?

#1066 1 year ago
Quoted from TheHueManatee:

Yes to LEDs and color DMD

Sweet. I have a LED ColorDMD but not yet tried LEDs in the game. It is tough trying to find a perfect "warm white" match with LEDs for the GI. I like my games bright, but with that comes the strobing effect that makes me fill a bit dizzy at times.

#1068 1 year ago
Quoted from TheHueManatee:

My TFTC came blinged out in different coloured + SUPER bright LEDs. I ordered all warm white LEDs for the entire machine from titan pinball. I'll do the LED swap to warm white when I have my NOS playfield swapped in.
Finally got the shaker motor working too. It's pretty neat. What are your thoughts on the shaker? On or off?

Sweet. I bet you're looking forward to doing all that work on the playfield swap. <Sarcasm>

I haven't played TFTC much in the past to remember if it had a working shaker motor. I do like it in LAH though. Oops...my previous post should have mentioned the LEDs and LED ColorDMD are in my LAH. I don't have a TFTC. A friend of mine is needing me to work on his TFTC, so I'll have access to his when I get some free space in the house for his project game. I'm looking forward to that.

#1070 1 year ago
Quoted from TheHueManatee:

Forgot to mention I got pinstadiums instaled as well. Really makes the playfield pop!!
I'm just asking in general about the shaker because I'm wondering if all that shaking will cause problems down the road. (things shaking out of place or falling off onto the cabinet)

If you like it how it is implemented in the game play, keep it on. It adds a nice touch to LAH. I added one in my Stern Star Wars and in my Stern Indiana Jones and I'm glad I did it for both. I don't foresee any future issues with the shaker installed.

#1073 1 year ago

Good news!!! CPR Rocky & Bullwinkle plastic set is now available.
2018-09-12 09_52_29-Rocky And Bullwinkle – classicplayfields.com - Internet Explorer (resized).png

#1077 1 year ago

I am Batman. I hope I can own one of those one day.

2 weeks later
#1106 1 year ago
Quoted from matt_adams:

This is my Data east line-up, I doubt any of these will ever leave. When I first got into pinball I always looked down on DE games and they never stayed long but in the last 5 years or so have revisited them with a newfound appreciation, helped by Pinsound
[quoted image]

Uhh...you know a ColorDMD is available for all 5 of them? Get started. Congrats on your row of 5 there. Definitely some good DE titles.

#1109 1 year ago

I am in desperate search of p/n 515-5850-00 or the whole assembly so I can finish up my LAH for the local pinball show on the 19th. Anyone have one to sell? 2018-10-07 09_55_14-Marco Specialties Pinball Parts - Internet Explorer (resized).png

2 months later
#1138 10 months ago
Quoted from Rando:

Hi all,
Currently have a Twister, and a Last Action Hero on order to be delivered later this week. Posted this question in the Twister club forum as well:
I'm finally getting around to replacing a couple ROM chips in my Twister to see if that improves spinner/fan functionality. I had trouble pulling the ROMS which is why I took so long as I didn't want to break anything. Finally was able to figure out how to extract existing chips without causing damage.
Here is what I got:
I replaced both in the game, but when I turned on game it doesn't appear to boot. Lights come on, but game doesn't start. Removed the new main ROM (but left display) and replaced with original, and game booted after asking me to open door.
Question 1: Is there something I should be doing to help it boot with new ROM chip, or is it missing something else that needs to be added for the new ROM chip to work?
Question 2: Aside from display working as expected, how can I check that updated ROM is functioning properly, what has changed?
Any advice appreciated.

Since Twister is a Sega game, it is best to post in the Sega club. DE and Sega have different board sets between them. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sega-club

#1140 10 months ago
Quoted from Rando:

I seriously thought they were both made by the same company...[quoted image]

DE became Sega, but the DMD controller board and the DMD are the only things in common between the boards. So, depending on how much DE people know about the Whitestar board set, you may not get much help here.

3 weeks later
#1149 9 months ago
Quoted from cocomonkeh:

Have a row of the backbox burned out in a Jurassic Park. What connector is this? Had trouble tracing it.
Top half is out.

Let's see your CN6 connector on your power supply.

3 weeks later
#1166 8 months ago
Quoted from JDub03:

Hey all, I have a Rocky and Bullwinkle I recently got on trade. It is in okay shape and getting better by the day, but the left VUK for Aesop is really inconsistent. Sometimes the ball barely comes up, other times it shoots up and over thru the outlane. Anyone else run into this? I tried bending the scoop down a bit and that didn't help. New VUK or inconsistent power going to it? Thanks for any tips.

I bought a VUK rebuild kit and it helped some.

4 months later
#1227 3 months ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

The sounds on my Robocop are not quite right. I have have it running and playing well. But the sounds are not consistent. Sometimes the Turbo sounds are sounding off and sometimes they are not.
I read somewhere that I should consider replacing the ribbon style sound cable. This is the only site that Googled up when Googled Robocop pinball sound cable. I would buy this cable but the seller says, "It is suspected to work".......
I don't want to spend 25.00 for a cable that is suspected to work.
EDIT: I guess this is the website for Pinsider Zitt.
What sound cable options do I have for Robocop?

With power off, I would reseat both ends of the sound board ribbon cable and the sound ROMs.

1 month later
#1283 68 days ago

I think most DE games have a knocker in the lower cabinet.

3 weeks later
#1324 47 days ago
Quoted from zerbam:

my bullwinkle has one and missing one.......it is a clear cover over the credit switches inside the coin door

Remove the other one and then they will match. Less stress.

#1326 47 days ago
Quoted from zerbam:

sorry.....can't do that.........I am more of a completest!

So you're saying...if the only way to get that plastic is to buy another coin door, you'll do it?

#1328 47 days ago
Quoted from zerbam:

so your saying you have a coin door that has both covers and you are going are going to remove one just to sell me the coin door instead of just the cover?

My coin door is missing so I have none to sell. It was a what if question. Just trying to see how bad your OCD is.

#1330 47 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I purchased a second Time Machine to lay hands on the spare backglass so there is precedent.[quoted image]

2 times the fun!

3 weeks later
#1359 23 days ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Told ya! The power supply on Data East games need to be rebuilt. They’re all dying right now. New caps and it’s good as new!

And some having burnt connectors as his did.

#1360 23 days ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Keep getting an error message that there are Too Many Balls. The ball ejection coil keeps firing off after a ball enters the shooter lane. Also it fires off before you start a new game. The plastic below the coil looks damaged, maybe from resting the playfield on the top of the cabinet.

Picture of this would help.

Never seen a Too Many Balls error message show on any DE game display. How many balls you have in the trough?

It sounds like the game is doing a ball search because it thinks it never kicked a ball up to the shooter lane, where the game is expecting it to be. At the very least, it sounds like the shooter lane switch is not registering. I suggest testing all the switches in the game (including all trough switches) in the switch test as it will help to know if it is a single switch error, a whole row not registering, or a whole column of switches not registering. Not knowing the details, we can continue to guess where the problem lies.

#1369 22 days ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

As mentioned, there is some damage to the bottom of the coil but the resister seems to be intact.

That is a diode on the coil, notes resistor.

I will wait for the results of the switch test.

#1371 22 days ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

I know the trough clean function doesn't work.

Are you saying the coil is not firing? If so, will it fire in the solenoid test?

#1385 18 days ago

For the price of that battery board, you could have bought a NVRAM and no worries about soldering anything on DE/Sega/Stern Whitestar games, as NVRAM is Plug and Play.

#1388 18 days ago
Quoted from durgee7:

Damn, that is a great alternative. If I understand correctly, all I'd need to do is clip out the old holder and replace or swap out one of those chips with NVRAM.
Thanks again!

Correct. I clip off the battery holder to keep anyone from installing batteries because alkaline batteries no doubt will get installed.

5D gets swapped out.

1 week later
#1400 7 days ago
Quoted from moonraker:

I want to find a fuse cap to fit right into power supply hole, I don’t want to open up the power supply and hack a holder in, nothings broken. Just need to find one that fits

A used cap is your only chance. New ones are not threaded the same or do not have the same cap dimensions, different manufactures, etc. all fit a bit different than one another.

#1404 7 days ago
Quoted from Mahoyvan:

Posted on the LW thread but figure this one might get more action:
The Kick back coil on my LW3 started smoking a few months ago and I haven't had a chance to look into it until now.
At first inspection the plunger wouldn't budge at all. After taking it apart, it looks like the plastic section of the plunger melted to the inside of the sleeve. I threw the MM on and it measured 1.7ohm. This means it's cooked right?
Anyone ideas what might have caused this?
Now in regards to replacing this thing... My coil says AE-23-800-05 on it. "-05" isn't noted in my manual, and even so, -05 on the Marco site looks completely different...
Can anyone suggest an appropriate coil to replace this?

Separate repair threads are always best with links pointing toward them in the clubs. It is very tough trying to find repair solutions within a general club thread.

Your coil is cooked because you cannot get it apart, and yes, the resistance of the coil drops when the coil shorts out. The transistor on the MPU that drives it to fire, would be the cause, so it will need to be replaced.

AE-23-800-05 Replacement parts don't always look like the originals, true for anything remade. It is important to get the correct part number coil. As you can see, Marco has a note that it can be substituted with AE-23-800." Sometimes the -05 is designation that a diode is attached. Make sure you look at the game to know if the diode is needed.

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