I'm trying to correct this operator hack and put a new connector on CN8 for my Laser War, and I'm a bit confused. From the one picture I could find, there appears to be ONE green and ONE yellow in that connector.

Somehow I have like...3 of each in this cobbled mess, and I'm not sure why. It doesn't look out of place in the loom so if wires were added they were bundled in as though they were original. Any suggestions?

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This was about the best picture I could dig up for reference purposes. Not sure why I've got so many yellow and green wires though for that CN8 connector.

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I pulled the playfield and put it on my rotisserie so I guess my next step is to trace all those wires down into the cab.

Alright. Tracing complete:

Yellows- cab connectors (x2) -- one 3-pin white/yellow and yellow for coin door, one 4-pin white/purple-pink-white/yellow-yellow (playfield side has a purple wire instead of pink, I'm assuming one is just faded and the other isn't?)

Greens- backbox connectors (x2) -- one to backbox connections, one to DIGITAL STEREO front panel

So this all makes sense, but I'm confused how the CN8 connector in my picture only had one green and one yellow wire inserted. Is there supposed to be a union somewhere else?

Because in one of my wire nuts I have two green leads and two yellow leads. That connector has...one of each. Just like I said and showed in the picture(s).

What's in my game does not appear to match what should be in the CN8 connector. That picture of the schematic lines up with the picture I found. Makes sense, no confusion there. My game is the confusing part.

Two great responses, thanks.

I understand what they did with the power board. They separated the striped sides and the solid sides, just as you said. The 'flash' feature works like it's supposed to (as far as I can tell). So while it's "hacked"..it's still "right"....ish.

I'll get a connector molexed and ready to go for when my board is done and I should be good to go. I think my Rottendog MPU is having some issues (solenoids, NVRAM) so hopefully a bit of diagnostic and probing can get that shored up. The sound board will get a recap, but thankfully it works.

Thanks again for the help! I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go with this.

Yeah, I've found it less than enjoyable with all the doubled-up wires for my Bally/Stern displays. I can usually do it, but I don't love it. Thankfully it's only two pins this time.

Ugh. Got my repaired boards back today, looks like I have the same, and also some new, issues. Time to go coil hunting I guess.

It's now popping the solenoid fuse on boot. Thinking maybe I put the wires backwards on the outhole coil I unhooked the solenoid entirely and got it to boot and kinda function (IE didn't pop that 3A fuse--slings worked, pops worked, etc), until the game reset with left flipper (the stack is MANGLED, so I probably need to just replace that entirely). Now it's back to popping the fuse every time on boot. The red base outhole coil was torched when I picked it up, still didn't fire even with a new coil (when the fuse didn't pop).

This thing is so grumpy.

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MPU/driver back a second time. Replaced diodes on a bunch of coils and made sure to wire them correctly in red/yellow bases. Replaced the 23-840 coil with a new 23-850 coil (and then replaced the diode on the 840 that was there, to go back into the toolbox.

Red and yellow bases, and the outhole are all now good. I need to adjust pop switches (they're not even close) and figure out my left flipper. I'm pretty stumped on that one. I've got a sfl-19-400/30-750 on the left, fl-23-600/30-2600 on the right. Right side works fine. Left.....resets the game. It also looks really bad on this stack. Barf.

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Coils for red/blue bases were shorted, wired backwards, who knows. I went through and replaced coils and verified proper resistance and then made sure to not screw up the wiring process this time. The outhole solenoid came to me all messed up (as did blue base) and didn't get properly addressed before my repaired board went back in. Basically, I pulled my head out of my ass this time around.

There is one diode on *both* coils.

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Good catch, I'll check that.

That's my right flipper though, and that's the one that works seemingly without issue.

Aside from needing to redo wiring is there any reason I couldn't/shouldn't just put 11630 coils in it? These coils aren't the correct 22-750/30-2600 coils that the service bulletin calls for anyway, and I have some extra 11630s laying around.

Sorry, this was the SB I was referencing, in case it's helpful in any way:

https://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/Stern%20Service%20Bulletins/sb/sb62.pdf

Clipped the coils out and this is what I measure:

23-600/30-2600 94.5, 2.4
19-400/30-750 25.6, 0.6
11630 172.2, 4.3

One thing is likely IMO, that 19-400 coil is junk. No change after clipping the diode either. As for whether or not the 11630 would be acceptable..... I'm not sure.

Good point on doubting the overall credibility of the bulletin, I noticed the upper as well and had to scratch my head on what kind of sense that made.

Do you mind showing me your wiring with your 11630s? Obviously I can just look at the guide from Vid, but if you don't mind just sharing your pictures that'll eliminate any possibility for confusion on my part, I think. My game has factory mylar and while I'm polishing it up, I certainly do not expect the sort of glide you're getting from a clearcoated playfield. I might be okay.

Thanks!

I often forget that not everyone has their games right next to them to reference so my apology for assuming.

As mentioned I'm fairly certain vid's guide would have been enough, I'm sure I'll be fine.

Thanks for the diagram. No picture necessary.