(Topic ID: 109642)

Data East pinball club

By PinballManiac40

4 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 1,311 posts
  • 318 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 8 days ago by Pin-up
  • Topic is favorited by 150 Pinsiders


Linked Games

Topic poll

“Do you have any Data East Pinball machines??”

  • Yes, I have one. 356 votes
  • I have one or more. 169 votes
  • Considering buying one or more. 56 votes
  • No, never 32 votes

(Multiple choice - 613 votes by 597 Pinsiders)

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#200 4 years ago

I recently bought my first, adventures of rocky and bullwinkle. I have ordered a couple of parts for it that were missing. I have it at the in-laws right now and have gotten all my nephews hooked on it. Color DMD would be cool, where it would do the different color animations.

#204 4 years ago
Quoted from TopMoose:

Totally agree and i'm hoping that R&B is one of Color DMD's secret projects for this coming year. Since you just got your machine, you may be interested in the instructional/game demo video I recently posted on YouTube. Enjoy!
» YouTube video

Great and informative video. I think I need to check the level on mine, about 1 out of every 5 shots that go up the ramp actually make it around they go all the way to the curve and come back. also should the laser kick always sent it back to the top rollovers? mine doesn't, also probably due to being to high in the back.

#207 4 years ago
Quoted from TopMoose:

The right ramp is really steep and often difficult to get up. On my machine I find that it's easier to backhand the right ramp from the right flipper. Because the left ramp takes that weird turn on the way up, it's not unusual for the ball to lose momentum and roll back down. The game might be quicker if it's pitched high, but those ramp shots become impossible. I got a free bubble level app on my iPad and set the playfield at 6.5 degrees, which seems to work well.
My laser kick hardly ever makes it around to the top rollovers - sometimes it gets as far as the right orbit switch or, if I'm lucky, knocks down a drop target or two. I don't think it's designed to make a "figure eight" orbit like Skateball or Flash.

I asked about the kick, because in the video, it did. also did you use the included level, or just your ipad. I didn't really use either, I just set it the best I could at that time, it was only supposed to be there a short time, but the remodel issues at my house are taking longer than planned. (like they always do)

#212 4 years ago

R&B issues:
Ok, so a few new issues, when playing and getting multiball, it shows the building display, then soon after, the display goes black and shows nothing until I lose multiball, then it will restart sometimes showing the display version, sometimes not and showing the shoot right to restart multiball. I assume somewhere I am losing some voltage? Also after I lose the multiball, I am getting random Wrong hat and other sounds, when I know I haven't hit the hat targets? any thoughts?
I also posted this in a thread I have on the R&B
Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated. This is the most I've paid for any machine and I bought it on the thoughts that the minor cosmetic issues were the only real issues.

1 week later
#230 4 years ago

Quick question for those of you that have/had Rocky & Bullwinkle. What style of bulbs are in your backbox. Should be 555's(wedge base) and some flashers. Mine has 47's(bayonet) and 89's(large bulbs). Mine was originally sent to italy, maybe standard on the import units? Or has mine just been bastardized.

#232 4 years ago
Quoted from Hawk007:

Mine has 555's and 906's . Could be yours was early or late in production. I would not see the value in switching sockets unless one had a huge surplus of bulbs of a certain type or wanted cheaper flashing 455 bulbs in place of 47/44.

My sn is 82811. Also the 89's take a large socket, and possibly opening up the holes that the bulbs go through. Seems to me like a lot of work also, thats why i asked if i was the only one.

1 week later
#235 4 years ago

I fixed my F-UP, thanks to all that helped. I have a new lighting issue posted in my thread if anyone has any advice. thanks

8 months later
#344 3 years ago
Quoted from howdoyouafford:

Not mine, but stumbled across this beautiful wood rail Rocky & Bullwinkle on youtube. Plus a very clever cabinet feature.
» YouTube video

I love the light up panels on the side and front. very cool.

3 weeks later
#356 3 years ago
Quoted from chuckcasey:

I just finished my Torpedo Alley. Being a submariner I knew I'd like the finsihed product but didn't know I'd like it this much. Added the custom parascope topper with a blue GI and two flashers. After two months of love (and money) it ready to play.


absolutely awesome.

1 month later
#373 3 years ago

I have a problem with my R&B, the i witnessed the same problem on a Lethal Weapon at the VFW show. When i get a lot going on, multiball, etc, i lose the display. Sometimes i still get some animations, just no scores. Most of teh time, nothing. Until i lose the ball, then it shows Sherman doing the totals, then when the next ball starts, all is fine again. Ideas... I have recently installed an Xpin power supply, which seemed to make the problem less, but still there. I have to repin some connectors, and maybe that is it, just haven't done it yet. Thought i'd see if others have had the same issue and what fixed it.

#375 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

One of 2 things I would suspect. Either it is one of the 2 ribbon cables or the DMD controller board is becoming an issue.
I would start with the ribbon cables. Reseat them, both sides, not just at the DMD controller, to the DMD and to the MPU boards as well. If that doesn't help, try wiggling the ribbon cables near the connectors while some is test playing the game or just hitting different playfield switches. This is the best way to pinpoint a ribbon cable issue. Most of the time I found the small ribbon cable from the DMD to the DMD controller is the issue.
On the DMD controller, you can wiggle the 2 pin power connector (with red/black wires). Sometimes the issue is one of the 2 wires become loose IDC connector. Other possible problem is broken solder joints on the male 2 pin power connector. Would not hurt to resolder these on the back side of the DMD controller board.

Thanks for the advice, I have reseated both ends of the cable, but I will check the other things you suggest.

1 month later
#445 3 years ago

i have contacted xpin in the past and they are very helpful. GL

1 month later
#459 3 years ago
Quoted from PeteB:

Good to see plenty of cabinet decals now available for Data East pins:

wonder how long before they get a letter... looks good, anybody used them that can comment on quality?

4 months later
#498 2 years ago

Having a small issue on my R&B. My right ramp exit switch has quit working. i checked the wires to the CPU, both have continuity. I looked at the switch matrix, unfortunately, there is only one other switch in the column. It is working, the switches in the row seem to be working. I went through the switch tests, had 2 other switches that weren't registering. I activated them several times, then they started working????
Seems odd to me. There is a diode on the switch terminals. Well technically it looks like its hooked to 1 leg, then to a different point then the other wire is hooked to. Separate question while running through the switch tests, the 3 hat trick targets, the outside ones, when i activate them and hold the target, they register once. When i push and hold the center one, it keeps registering. Any ideas what to check, or what is wrong there. probably why i get the wrong...wrong...wrong hat. thanks in advance. i'm guessing maybe the switch is bad on the ramp. I can here it clicking when i move the arm.

#501 2 years ago
Quoted from PeoriaKid:

I just installed a new Pinsound board in my DE Star Trek. Followed the instructions to the letter, but when I turn in back on, the start button doesn't work. It's set up on free play.
All the lights and DMD are working fine. Any ideas?

I would also make sure its still in free play, and something didn't reset it back to coin play.

2 months later
#631 2 years ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Besides the cost of the posts, is there any reason to use the plastic vs metal post? Seems like the metal post is for the slings and plastic everywhere else that gets a rubber around it.
(williams metal post shown as reference to what i'm referring to.

Is this for your R&B? if so i would look into this thread, https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/finished-shopping-my-rocky-bullwinkle-its-hella-fun/page/4#post-3157031
Russ changed out a number of the for star posts, and they look great. Its what i am going to do to mine.

3 weeks later
#687 2 years ago
Quoted from RetroRefurbs:

Just finishing up on our Rocky & Bullwinkle plastic set mini kit, ready to be sent off for production next week. Haven't decided on how many we will have made so wondering what the level of interest would be?
Anyone know if there's an R&B club on Pinside?

I might be interested in a set.

2 months later
#758 2 years ago
Quoted from koops:

Has anyone restores the plastic chrome on their apron?
I was wondering what techniques people used to do this?

Here is one way
About 3/4 of the way down the page...

10 months later
#933 1 year ago

question, i am installing a colordmd in my Rocky and Bullwinkle. All is going well. In front of my old dmd there is a pane of glass. When i install the new dmd, the glass is loose. i don't know if the glass is factory. IF so should it be loose. Also there were 2 "L" brackets attacked to the speakers going down towards the glass, but they aren't the same length, or size. I don't think they are factory. If anyone can shed some light on this, please advise.

#937 1 year ago
Quoted from zerbam:

still hoping to find the cardboard (fish paper) cover for the S.S. Flipper P.C.B. that i pictured a few days earlier or willing to remove theirs and make me a pattern.......... it is missing from my the R&B that i bought. any help at all greatly appreciated.......

Not sure mine has it, if it does, i'll try to take it off and get the pattern.

3 weeks later
#952 1 year ago

I know the DE games are tall, but I just got my R&B set back up, and sitting next to my GOTG, and Joker Poker, man is it bad. Can someone check the leg length, maybe mine has the wrong length.

#954 1 year ago
Quoted from lordloss:

28.5, you probably have the 30.5 which is wrong

Thanks, i'll measure tonight.

#955 1 year ago
Quoted from Insane:

Thanks, i'll measure tonight.

Yep. 30.5". Looked at the manual, and it looks like the 28.5 have been discontinued and replaced with the 30.5 according to the websites I looked at. The Williams/Bally 28.5 should work. Probably what I will order.

#957 1 year ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Would you go with black or silver legs?

Probably the black that was original.

3 weeks later
#977 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

I hope it works for you upon powering it up. I have my R&B on loan and hoping to get it back soon so that I can install a LED ColorDMD in it and show it off at the Houston Arcade Expo in October. I miss playing that game. Wow Wee!!!

I put one in mine, and it is AWESOME... You won't be disappointed...

1 month later
#1023 12 months ago
Quoted from Rascal_H:

Anyone else like to replace the metal posts with standard star posts? I like the look better as it lets more light shine through.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Also, have a new power board if anyone interested

Parts - For Sale
Replacement Power Supply For Data East Games, 520-5047-00New!New “Ended up not needing this power supply board ordered new from ksarcade.net.

Compatible with the following:

Adventures of Rocky and Bullwinkle and Friends, Batman (Data East), Bat...”
1 day ago Wrentham, MA 100 (Firm)

I did on my Rocky and Bullwinkle. I saw it in one of the other R&B threads I think.

4 weeks later
#1095 11 months ago

had an issue with my Rocky and Bullwinkle.
When playing this weekend, the left flipper would sometimes not flip, flip with no power, flip up and immediately go back down, even with the button still pressed, or work correctly. I am thinking the end of stroke switch, and maybe the button switch. Both flippers were completely rebuilt within the last 2 years. With very little use since, but enough to know that they were working. Any thoughts? I didn't get a chance to look into yet, just wanted to get some places to look... Cross posted form the R&B club.

#1101 11 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Is the cabinet switches gold contacts?
Is the power hold circuitry working on the solid state board?

Not sure, how do I check the hold circuit?

#1102 11 months ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Cold solder joints at the SSFB?

Always possible, but worked fine before...

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