Hey everyone! I just got back from the Midwest Gaming Classic this past weekend. After playing pinball for hours and hours in Milwaukee, I had the itch to play my TMNT Data east this evening. Something didn't seem right as I plunged the ball to the playfield. Callouts seemed to be going nuts. Almost each flipper activation led to a callout. Is this normal? I never noticed it before. I wonder if the playfield protector that's been on my machine for close to a year has nudged some of the switches closed. In that case, I'll probably need to run a diagnostic for switches.

In case anyone is curious, here's a video clip showing my game in freeplay. I appreciate any/all feedback you guys have.

Thanks!

Huge progress made by checking wires at left amber target. A green-black wire was somehow detached from the lug, causing all blue targets and left-most amber target not to activate. Soldered wire back in place and all 4 targets working. Next issue is the "Save April" switch. Doea anyone have a picture showing wires at that location? Also, there is a loose wire at "Captive Ball" switch. I bet these two switches are related, especially since they're at the same switch column. I bet that loose wire at "Captive Ball" needs to be reattched.

Any help, including pics, are greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

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Found a good pic of that loose wire at the captive ball for tmnt. Can anyone confirm if this needs to be reattached to that lug with the matching grn-prpl wire? Thanks!

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Nevermind. Made sense resoldering that wire to the matching wire and...all switches work!!! 1st time since owning the machine (2017) to have all switches working. Part of the problem was not knowing about them.

Hey Guys,

Just wanted to know if anyone in the U.S. is selling a Data East Translucent Red Plunger Rod. The only place that I am able to find the DE rod is in Europe. I'm looking to upgrade my TMNT kicker assembly with the Stern version and wanted to replace my current plunger rod (springs, clips, tip are being reused). I tried posting on the Marketplace but it keeps asking me what I want to sell (if that makes any sense).

Thanks!

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Excellent! I'll send you a PM.

Thanks, guys. Yeah, prefer the DE molded knob. We'll see if I can reach Ministry of Pinball for shipping options. I have a feeling they do not ship to U.S.

Hey Everyone,

Has anyone installed Frank's Famous Lithium Battery Board on their Data East MPU? I bought this board to replace the AA battery holder. Unfortunately, the replacement board didn't come with instructions. I sent an email to Todd at TNT and he responded quickly, letting me know there were no instructions for board install. I know...why would I buy this without having enough background in electronics? Short answer: I didn't do enough research, especially on NVRAM. I have no problem soldering/desoldering boards but want to make sure I install correctly. Just hoping for some guidance.

Thanks Guys

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Damn, that is a great alternative. If I understand correctly, all I'd need to do is clip out the old holder and replace or swap out one of those chips with NVRAM.

Thanks again!

Even better! This is exactly what I need for the moment.

Thanks jgadzia!

To those looking to replace their DE TMNT ball launch/kicker arm assembly with the Stern version, be prepared. I had to cut some of the metal off to fit, along with drilling another hole. Also, make sure you have a rod longer than the original DE rod. I ended up getting the stern ball launch working but did not have the correct length rod. I ended up going back to the original kicker arm assembly because I prefer the DE rod. Ugh...time wasted, lesson learned.

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That's great! I'm wondering if the rubber tip would add just enough length, but that's for another time. Here's a video with mine. It wasn't quite centered with the ball (stern fork kept tilting a bit to the left). I figure the support plate needed to be more flush to the wood. Anyway, thanks for your support!

Hey Guys,

I just purchased a new set of plastics for my Data East TMNT, mainly for that Michelangelo triangular piece near the pop bumpers. Before I swap out plastics, does anyone know if there are any protective plastics/Cliffy's that could prevent damaging my new plastic?

Here's a pic of the old plastic.

Thanks!

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Thanks to cottonm4 and drummermike for the feedback on using plastic protector or washers. Do you guys recommend using oversized washers/protectors that go slightly beyond edge of the playfield plastic in need of protection? I guess the ball would hit the protection edge first, preventing edge contact with ball? I should look at my Stern DP Pro for ideas. I'm guessing the additional layer of plastic also stiffens the existing playfied plastic.

Thanks to this group, I was able to swap my TMNT mpu battery holder with Frank's Lithium battery upgrade. Thanks, Guys!!!
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Hey Guys,

Has anyone here added spotlights to their Data East playfield? I'm trying to research a good spotlight kit for my TMNT pin. Comet has some nice kits with single and double options. Do you guys have any recommendations for this particular pin? My initial thought is adding one spotlight at the top of each pop bumper where both ramps attach, and have them point towards middle of playfield, either at all 4 turtles, and/or the shredder head. I know this is all a matter of opinion, but it's nice to know what you all have tried out so far.

Thanks!

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Thanks, Guys! Pinball life does have reasonable prices for the spotlights. Now it's just a matter of ordering the right 555 bulb, whether plain white LED, or use different colors.

That is a nice looking playfield! The purple spotlights look sharp. Thanks for all the info

Guys, I have another newbish post, but I've done a little homework. Anyone here have cracks and missing pieces in their Data East ramp(s). I inherited a TMNT with all that stuff, and I know it's common. Since there are no ramp replacement options, I decided to buy SCI GRIP 3 and the associated applicator bottle, to reinforces cracks by capillary action (based on a 4-yr-old thread posted here in pinside). As for the small missing pieces at the top of ball shooter lane/ramp, I'm not sure if Sci Grip 3 is an option unless I trace the opening and cut a piece of plastic with same or similar thickess and properties. Have you guys had any success with these methods? If not, any recommendations for repair? It looks like previous owners slathered the ramp with a crap ton of adhesive for that thin metal plate.

Also, I'm thinking of making thin metal protectors for the entrance ramps at top left of playfield. I contacted Cliffy a while back but he was very busy. At the very least, I can send him dimensions of those entrance areas.

As always, I appreciate all of your feedback!

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Yeah, the pics are on a usb. I was trying to post during break, using my phone. I don't like using work internet. Sorry about the crappy picture quality. I could always repost.

That's what I'm talking about! Excellent feedback! Thank you

You can do it! Please keep us posted.

Not too bad. I desoldered the contacts for the old battery holder, on backside of mpu board. I then removed any solder from the 4 locations designated for the new lithium battery holder. Soldered the lithium battery holder to mpu board and all done!

Guys, I didn't think this through when ordering replacement plastics. Does anyone know how to remove the rivets holding the yellow flasher dome and the clear plastic assembly (top left of pic)? If successful, I'll need to reattach to the new pastic using a rivet gun.

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Thank you all for the quick responses! Another fun side project. I like the idea of using a screw and nut for new plastics. Appreciate the support.

I agree. It lacks that sheen. The main reason I bought the repro plastics was to replace the triangle shaped Michelangelo plastic that was missing a chunk. I'm saving all my original plastics in case I decide to swap them back in.

Spotlights added to tmnt after a thorough playfield cleaning that involved removing the playfield protector, and touched up some high wear areas. Also did a crap ton of other stuff...but I don't need to put everyone to sleep. Left side of pic is before all the work, w/o spotlights.

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Thanks! I could always buy purple and swap out the bulbs. Also, was it your backglass with the bright white light bulbs? I have the soft white LEDs which make it look old. Those brighter white bulbs really help update the backglass. I had multiple colored soft LEDs but it just looked too "rainbowy."

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Very creative! Nice job on color/bulb selection.

I tried copying you with my 1smd soft leds, minus a few items. I still like yours more. Beats the old fashioned yellowish look.
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Hey Guys,

I've noticed the sound in my TMNT has been inconsistent. Sometimes the bass is nonexistent. I decided to play around with the volume knob and noticed big differences when going to higher or lower volume. There is a sweet spot that allows for optimal sound, but I'm pretty sure this isn't normal. Based on the videos below, am I due for new speakers? If so, any recommendations? Also, not sure if I need to replace sound board caps or other board components. Just hoping for any advice on this issue. I appreciate the support!

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Thank you, Mr. Tuckey! I have some work to do.

Also, thank you to Frank L. for his battery board!

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Thanks, PinWoofer! I'll give it a shot tomorrow afternoon.

It worked! It freakin' worked! Volume control is now smooth with no loss of sound. I'm still planning to purchase the 9 different caps (25 total quantity) to replace on the sound board. Thanks for the help!

Hey Guys,

Data East TMNT:

I'm in the process of ordering replacement parts for a new plastic ramp. I was able to find rivets through Marco. As for the ramp plates (part nos. 4, 5, 7) and microswitches (part no. 2), I'm struggling. At the very least, I would love to have replacement microswitches [500-5335-00]. Do you guys know of any alternative switch part numbers that can be used in place of the original ramp microswitch 500-5335-00?

I appreciate your support!
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Sorry about the pics. I obviously didn't know how to rotate my pics. Appreciate the help.

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Thanks, gdonovan!

Yep, we're both getting a new ramp from Richie. Yeah, I'm being proactive with the switches...because it did kinda act up when the wires were under slight tension. After I relaxed the tension, the issue seemed to dissapear. I haven't gone in and looked super close to the switch contacts but I've already had to replace the flipper microswitches (which makes sense given the higher use). I'm more concerned with not having certain parts just in case.

As for the rivets, I can't figure out how to cheaply install those tubular aluminum rivets. I have a rivet gun, but I don't think it's the correct rivet type (pull-through rod). I'm concerned the rivet gun I have will damage the plastic, but I could use a washer to distribute the force. I'm not in a rush to get rivets.

Thanks for the info on that switch. I emailed Pinball Wizard for support. I'll keep you posted if you're interested in that specific switch.

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Excellent info as always, cottonm4! I have some research to do. I was using the part numbers from the ramp materials list to get an exact match. Maybe the rivets were steel instead of aluminum. The rivets are for the ramp entrances, and at the plastic ramp/habitrail fit-up.

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Oh, those are high-dollar tools. Very nice! Thanks for the info!

Guys,

Anyone here install a Boston Pinball LED dmd as a replacement for their Plasma dmd? The 128x16 dmd for my TMNT works perfectly but I am interested in having a newer (green) display, and I also like having a backup dmd. The led display instructions are very straightforward, and I'm getting good feedback from Boston Pinball customer service. My questions for you guys involve the correct placement of the display, and use/type of plastic standoffs. I always felt my display was slightly lower than it should be. Also, I noticed two hacks performed, one being a jumper wire, and the second being glued plastic standoffs (3 out of 4 glued). The standoffs do not have screws on the opposite side of lightboard. I'm assuming they need to be yanked from the board because they only rotate in place (they do not unscrew). They project 3/4" from face of board.

My questions:

1. Can you guys take a look at the pics and tell me if the display position looks correct with respect to up-down position? I still feel it's a tad lower, and I would hate installing my new DMD using incorrect mounting points. Position could also be affected by possible sagging at the lightboard where it locks in at slide bracket.

2. Can you tell (from the pics) if these plastic standoffs can be pulled from the lightboard? I'm planning to use the 3/4" long plastic spacers (provided by Boston Pinball) with bolts and nuts.

I appreciate the support!

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Thanks, vec-tor! I'll do all that and more.

I might be sending a PM soon. My tmnt DE apron is looking a bit rough.

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Hey Guys,

I posted this in the Data East Batman Forum but hope to reach more owners here.

I was finally able to go through all the loose parts from the machine I picked up last weekend (most are currently repacked and organized in boxes now). This is a project pin and I'm trying to make a list of parts that are missing or need replacing. Can anyone send me pics showing the underside of playfield? I can't find any helpful pics online showing the underside. As of now, I have the wires/solenoids/switches/bulb sockets layed out for inspection. I'll need to replace a few solenoids and coil sleeves. I taped all areas that have loose or unattached wires...and will figure out where they attach per manual/schematics. Some areas that I'm hoping to get more pics include the pop bumpers and other major assemblies. Still going through the manual and checking off all items for the major assemblies.

Also, I briefly checked the motor assembly and it doesn't seem to rotate by hand. Not sure if this is typical of a motor that isn't supplied with power (detached) but I'm thinking it needs to be replaced.

There's a clear plastic that has an intersecting piece broken off. I'm not able to identify the piece based on online playfield photos. Hoping there's a replacement for that piece (if it's important).

Thanks!

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Ok, I found a pic in this thread. It's the best example I have so far. Any additional pics showing profile view or closeups of the back of playfield underside would be sooooo helpful. I definitely count on you guys for a lot and I truly appreciate the support.

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Thanks vec-tor. I might be missing that piece. To me, it looks like the cylindrical peg (or stud) from the motor is inserted into the elongated circle plastic mold of the up/down target assembly. After getting the motor to rotate by hand, I tried simulating the movement with the target and it seems to work that way. I'm guessing the bushing you mentioned is in-between the motor and up/down target assembly to keep the plastic target from damage. Anyway, I'll have to keep looking for that piece because I haven't seen it listed in the manual.

Guys,

For my DE Batman:

I cannot get this roll pin to budge, even with full strength of a hammer. Do I need to get a punch set for this piece? I was hoping to do a quick swap of the aluminum link, but damn...these little jobs become so time-consuming.

Thanks!

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Thanks Billc479! I'll give the nail a shot, then buy a 1/8th punch for the next try.

I didn't have the right setup for some of the recommendations you guys mentioned above. I started with finishing nails, and bent too many to mention. I ended up used a small phillips screw driver with hammer. I hammered one side until the pin would no longer budge. Then, I switched to the other side and had success! Given the method I used, it was a pain...but it worked! Thanks to everyone for your advice.

Now I'm just questioning the spring attachment. I think it just loops around that pivot at the top.

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Will do. Thanks!