Have you checked for "low line" transformer primary select configuration? The readings you are getting are suggestive of this.

transformer_primary_select.jpg

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Data_East/Sega#Voltage_Selection_Jumper_Pinout

VAC readings are different from VDC readings because of the waveform. If you really want to get into it then lookup "RMS voltage" and enjoy having your head hurt.

Well. You got me. The only other thing would be to check your line voltage. It might be higher than what you are expecting it to be. A transformer is simply using ratios of windings to change VAC levels. If you're reading 55VAC at the secondary and the winding ratio is correct (assumed to be since you are probably using an OEM unmodified transformer) then the VAC into the primary must be the source.

de_psu_backbox_wiring.jpgde_psu_schematic.jpg

The green wire is factory.

These are serial (versus parallel) wound flipper solenoids. You should double check your wiring and resistances.

The manual shows that the flipper should be a serial wound solenoid.

laser_war_flipper_wiring_diagram.jpg

FL-11630 has a power winding about 4.5 Ohms and a hold winding about 150 Ohms. I think that 23-600 is going to be around 4 Ohms and that 30-2600 is going to be around 150 Ohms. Measure the resistance to be sure. The 19-400 is going to be MUCH less. Probably around 3 Ohms I'd guess. I think that kind of power winding was used with 25V flippers instead of 50V flippers. The 30-750 I'm not sure about but definitely less than 150 Ohms. I think 23-600/30-2600 is going to be comparable to FL-11630.

In the end, it doesn't matter if it's serial or parallel. As long as it's wired correctly and of comparable power and winding resistance.

My Laser War came with (and still has) parallel wound flipper solenoids installed.

That bulletin lists an upper flipper for Laser War but it doesn't have one. Don't trust what you read there simply because that could be one of a few other errors. Whenever I assess a document I look for consistency with expected. If I find an inconsistency then that casts doubt on the trustworthiness of the document.

I always thought that FL-11630 is the same as 23-600/30-2600 but since don't have (and have never used) a 23-600/30-2600 I can't say for sure. Reference: https://www.flippers.com/coil-resistance.html for another source of information.

Play the game with one. I have the FL-11630 installed in mine and I get airballs hitting the glass from the yellow standup targets so it's plenty strong. I also get airballs when it bounces off the ramp. Then again, I rebuilt the flipper assembly and have a cleared PF that still shines even after about 1,000 plays from the local show over the years.

That reading of 2.4/94.5 seems off to me. That seems even stronger than a FL-11629 which is going to be far too much power for Laser War.

If you learn to read the wiring diagram you won't need anybody sharing any images with you. The skill translates to being to read any other wiring diagram in any other manual for any other game.

Here is the wiring diagram for a parallel wound flipper solenoid.

parallel_wound_flipper_solenoid_wiring.jpg

It is the same for ANY Williams System 11A/B/C game. Since Data East moved away from parallel wound flipper solenoids to a single winding under the Deger board control, you can't use most of the Data East manuals.

If you still can't figure it out then I will have to go to where the machine is located to get an image. This is why learning to read the manual and wiring diagram will give you the ability to "help yourself" instead of relying on others.

If your collection is accurate then you can look at your Taxi. It is a parallel wound flipper solenoid. The wiring for the serial wound flipper solenoid is the same as the wiring for the parallel wound flipper solenoid. Voltage (power) goes to the lug at the banded end of the diode. Drive (ground) goes to the lug at the non-banded end of the diode. The capacitor is connected between the center lug and the non-banded end of the diode.