Pulled out my Data East Playboy 35th Anniversary from storage. I'm in need of a lockdown bar. I can't seem to find a stainless one for this era of Data East. The black one is readily available though.

Anyone have a nice one for sale or know where I can find such an animal? Are any other lockdown bars compatible with Data East Playboy 35th?

Thanks in advance!

After having a Playboy 35th project sitting in the shop for about 6 years now, I'm finally getting around to doing it. It's mostly a "find that part" game to get it all put back together. I've gone through the game pretty good this evening and have a few things I'd like to have confirmed and a couple questions if anyone's willing to help out with that. I just picked up an MPU today with no acid damage and have a new ppb, power supply, and display on the way as well, since all those are missing. Awesome! So, here we go:

I couldn't find either of these answers in the manual/schematics that I downloaded from ipdb:

2 fuses by the bridge rectifiers in the back box, what are their values? mine are missing
5 fuses on the right inside of the back box, what are their values? are these GI fuses? mine are missing

There were also no lights in the back box. I see 89's in the schematic so I assume those are the correct flashers for the back box panel.

906 flashers are under the playfield and 555's elsewhere.

I couldn't find a part number for the playfield glass trim at the back (top). This should work correct? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8091
The one in the game has the top part broken off.

The mounts for the display are missing and I don't see any part numbers or reference to them in the manual. Any information on what should be there? Bolts? Plastic stand offs?

I think that's it for now, I had most of the little parts on hand already.

Playboy 35th Continued:

Great info on the correct fuses for the bridge rectifiers and the fuse bank on the right inside side of the back box. Thanks!

I was also given the info on the display standoffs. I see them listed on Marco and come in sizes ranging from 1/4" long to 7/8" long. Any chance someone can measure these so I can get the correct ones? According to Marco, they should be secured with a #6 self tapping screw from the back side as well.

What's with the speaker panels? Did they come from the factory with both gold and black versions? I see lots of photos online with gold and lots with black. Mine happens to be black at the moment.

Playboy 35th update:

So, it looks like the display is mounted on blind hole standoffs. I checked out my Monday Night Football and they look to be the same. Found them on Marco to order as well.

For everyone's reference, I've also attached a photo of the 2 fuse holders that should be 8 amp slow blow by the bridge rectifiers (photo 1), and the 5 fuse block retrofit kit on the right inside of the back box that should all be 2.5 amp slow blow (photo 2).

There is a Europe tag on one of the wire harnesses, and it looks like there are some plug ins for a 220 power cord in here as well (photo 3), so I'll have to check and make sure the transformer is wired correct. That information is on page 28 of the manual. Currently, there is nothing in the cabinet that would go into those large round white plugs, and the power cord that would normally go out the back of the cabinet has been cut off inside the cabinet just before it would exit. New power cord is on hand.

This game has a pair of wires coming off of the speaker in the lower cabinet and one of them has a 3.9uf/50v capacitor soldered on to it (photo 4). Does anyone have any idea what that is about? First time I've seen anything like that. I'm going to remove them and hook up the speaker wires there as they should be though.

The playfield glass back trim piece that I mentioned from Marco should work as well after measuring and confirming shaping.

Getting down to it...... thanks for everyone's help thus far!

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Someone requested Playboy 35th slingshot photos. The first 3 photos are of my left slingshot, which is complete EXCEPT for the diode that is shown in the 4th photo. Keep in mind though that the 4th photo is of my right slighshot, which is NOT complete, but only there to show the positioning of the switch diode that is missing from the left slingshot. Hope that's not too confusing, but all the connection points are there. Both sides should be connected in the same manner.

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Where can you get the stainless lock down? All ive seen for sale are black ones.... its for a playboy 35th

Seems like something someone should produce since they already have the black ones out there......

I've been looking for a chrome lockdown bar for my Playboy 35th. I haven't found anyone that makes the proper lockdown bar. I did however, try my classic Stern Meteor lockdown bar and it fits perfectly..... does anyone make the classic stern lockdown bars? Meteor is the style with the tabs and not the old stud style.

So, who actually MAKES the lockdown bars right now that are available? Maybe someone knows them and can get in touch about making a run of Data East stainless and/or the classic Stern Meteor and forward style..... seems like a need that should be addressed if neither are available as of now. Lots of classic stern and data east games out there that could use these I'm sure. Maybe some one can combine the design of both styles to cut down on production cost. Or just make one style and market it for both.

I have an old faded taped up one that you could use for this.... LMK.

I'm hoping it will roll up still without breaking too much, but it's all still attached together for now....

I'm looking for some good photos of what goes behind the "pinball" lights between the speakers in the back box on a Playboy 35th. I have a connector that goes to nothing hanging out there, and I'm guessing it goes to one of those lamp boards with the twist in sockets. Looking for some confirmation on that, and if anyone has those parts that would be great!

I had posted about my Playboy 35th about a year ago and just left it at that after a little tinkering. I ended up getting really into it last night and got it converted back over to US from the Europe power set up. Installed a new power supply, ppb board, cleaned up the mpu and installed a set of new roms from marco, cleaned up the sound board, checked out voltages and plugged it all together. Sound comes on at power up and I've got the dreaded "no blanking lamp lit". Just installed NVRam as well. No acid Damage at all. Time to look into the jumper settings (found those online) to make sure they are correct for the setup, and look into what might be causing the mpu not to boot.

That's kind of what is in there now, with just 3 lamps on it. Maybe this speaker panel was swapped over from a Monday Night Football or Robocop.

Playboy 35th has a plastic in front of that light area that says "pinball" on it. Each letter should light individually as you progress in the game. I did find some photos to confirm that it is supposed to have an actual lamp board behind those letters, and it would connect to the one connector that goes to nothing. In TNT's video on Playboy 35th, theirs was missing and they created a board for that area so it would work correctly.

Got a message into them to see if they are willing to make another, but would like an original if possible. Looks to be the only game with that specific 7 lamp layout.

If anyone comes across one, I'd gladly purchase it.

Thanks!

I have the plastic with the lettering. It comes with all of the new plastics sets made as well, if anyone else is looking for that certain plastic for theirs.

Behind that plastic though is supposed to be a lamp board with the common black plastic 555 twist in bases, just like the lamp boards that hold a bunch of twist in lamp sockets under a play field. There is a connector that goes to that lamp board as well. If you can make a lamp board, maybe someone would be willing to let you borrow theirs so you have the correct dimensions and mounting hole placement? There is probably a pinout in the manual/schematics. I can look for the page on that info as well.

I'll have a look at the paper hard copy I have on hand.

I see Adams Family and Dr Who both have 7 lamp boards just under the DMD, but the spacing is way to wide to use in a Playboy for the "pinball" lights.

I'm not sure the single lamp board would work either. It may also be too wide, unless you did something with 2 different depth brackets so that you could get the lamps closer together with the edges of every other board set back to the rear bracket of the 2. I don't know if the original setup had some tubes going from the lamp board to the plastic to keep the light just behind each individual letter or not, but I would think there would be something. Otherwise when you get one lit, it would look like 2-3 of them were lit up because they are so close together.

Actually, they have a 7 lamp board in their Meteor lamp board set....... I happen to have a Meteor as well.... I'm going to measure and see if that board might work too......

Board is now booting into attract mode. Manual says possible bad b5/c5 but in reading other posts also possible bad 6808 processor, that's in a socket and I've got spare here, so swapped it out with a new one and bingo! We are up and running. Several missing coils need to be installed along with the flipper coils and other flipper parts.

That 7 lamp Meteor board from pinball replacement parts might just work based on the measuring. Just have to put together some pieces to mount it in the proper space...... I'll check with them and see if I can get just the one board to give it a try. Would be much easier than building a complete assembly.

Heard back from Chris today and he's willing to give this project a go.

If anyone here is willing to take photos of the board showing how it is mounted, and a good photo of each side of the board that would be AWESOME! Let's get this project rolling for all

It would also be super helpful to have dimensions between any mounting holes/brackets and the exact spacing between the lights.

I don't think this board would have diodes on it, but that is another question that will need to be answered as well.

If you can help out with information please PM me and we can get this thing rolling!

Thanks!

Unfortunately Robo cop is completely different. Those are just 3 GI lights behind that plastic between the speakers, just like my Laser War and Monday Night Football.

In Playboy 35th, there is supposed to be an actual lamp circuit board with 7 lights on it and a connector attaches to this board from the cabinet wire harness. Each light is controlled individually and light up a specific letter of the word "pinball" as you progress in the game.

Playboy 35th..... probably down to one issue left.......

Almost done with this Playboy 35th project game. So much work has been done finding missing parts, rebuilt flippers, cleaned and adjusted switches and connectors, new lights, new rubbers, new balls, new power supply, new ppb board, new display, new game roms, reflowed solder on all old board connectors and lamp boards under play field, converted from Europe to US power, added NVram, and more.... down to a couple things left.

-missing lamp board for "pinball" lights between back box speakers (board being made for this to be tested in a few weeks)

-8 amp fuse blows for solenoid bridge rectifier in back box after about 10 games are played (probably time for the upgrade inkognito board on that one)

-terrible sounds: the game plays "playboy" voice at power up correctly but nothing else is correct after that. Everything else is static noises after that in game and in sound test when sounds/voice should be played. I swapped board with my Monday Night Football and issue follows playboy roms, so new sound roms are on the way

The only issue I don't think I have figured out already is the 3 stand up target bank in the middle of the play field. With a hard direct hit, those 3 targets will almost never register a hit. If it's a soft hit with the ball, or just pushing it with my fingers it will register every time. I've gone through switch test mode and they all test good with a hand touch or light ball hit, but they still almost never register a hard hit.

All the switches have been cleaned with rubbing alcohol/q-tip, adjusted for proper spacing and make great wiping motion contact, all diodes are present and in the correct direction, and I'm pretty sure there isn't supposed to be a capacitor or resistor on those stand ups since there aren't on any of the other stand ups in the game. I know in older games the caps can go bad on stand up switches for the "delay" for a hard fast hit so the game still recognizes the hit, but I don't think this one should have those.

Any suggestions on getting those 3 stand up targets to register ALL hits soft AND hard? I would think if one of those diodes was bad there would be a row/column issue going on, but all other switches work great in game and test mode.

I noticed they were off set a little bit so loosened up the mounting screws and lined them up again. Still same issue. They don't look worn or pitted at all.

I just spent time looking for a Data East lock down bar and don't think anyone makes the stainless/chrome ones at all. The black ones are made and available though. I do have several older Stern machines and the lock down bar from classic Stern games like Meteor fit the Data East games as well. Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure no one makes the classic Stern lock down bars either, so you have to source out a used one, unless you want to go black.