(Topic ID: 109642)

Data East pinball club

By PinballManiac40

9 years ago


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  • 3,046 posts
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  • Latest reply 33 hours ago by flynnibus
  • Topic is favorited by 219 Pinsiders

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“Do you have any Data East Pinball machines??”

  • Yes, I have one. 569 votes
    58%
  • I have one or more. 279 votes
    29%
  • Considering buying one or more. 84 votes
    9%
  • No, never 44 votes
    5%

(Multiple choice - 976 votes by 934 Pinsiders)

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There are 3,046 posts in this topic. You are on page 57 of 61.
#2801 1 year ago

Jody, try replacing the coil stops. Usually the data east ones are destroyed

#2802 1 year ago

Has anyone ever tried to replace the gun on their lethal weapon 3 with the data East plunger assembly 500-5409 on page 34 of the user manual. Is this possible. Right now I’m still looking for a gun assembly to buy but if I can’t find one is this an idea that is possible. Any advice would be appreciated.

#2803 1 year ago
Quoted from TBone8n69:

Right now I’m still looking for a gun assembly to buy but if I can’t find one is this an idea that is possible. Any advice would be appreciated.

Marco has T2 gun assembly.

#2804 1 year ago
Quoted from JodyG:

my left flipper on Hook has very little hold power ever since I received the game.

This was helpful for me when I was diagnosing DE flipper issues:
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Data_East/Sega#Solid_State_Flipper_Board_Issues
(snippet below)

In case your replacement was a Rottendog...there have been many (most?) bad batches over the years.

Snag_b88eeaf (resized).pngSnag_b88eeaf (resized).png
#2805 1 year ago
Quoted from scootss:

This was helpful for me when I was diagnosing DE flipper issues:
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Data_East/Sega#Solid_State_Flipper_Board_Issues
(snippet below)
In case your replacement was a Rottendog...there have been many (most?) bad batches over the years.
[quoted image]

This grounding issue sounds very plausible...thank yoh for sharing that, I will definitely pursue this path next. A bad ground could also be the reason for the coil humming at times as well.

#2806 1 year ago
Quoted from JodyG:

This grounding issue sounds very plausible...thank you for sharing that, I will definitely pursue this path next. A bad ground could also be the reason for the coil humming at times as well.

Cool. Good luck.

Big fan of your work, btw. Thanks for all that you do for the hobby. Assuming you'll be at pinfest, would be good to stop by and say hi.

#2807 1 year ago

Thanks Vec-tor. I didn’t know you could use another gun assembly for a lethal weapon 3. Thought the mounting bracket might not line up. So this https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14747
Will work.

#2808 1 year ago

Thanks Vec-tor. I didn’t know you could use another gun assembly for a lethal weapon 3. Thought the mounting bracket might not line up. So this https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14747
Will work.

Quoted from vec-tor:

Marco has T2 gun assembly.

#2809 1 year ago

Ok so before I totally destroy something I thought I’d post to the group. I have a Time Machine and the speaker grille is not ideal. So a NOS one came up and I bit. Received it today and it’s beautiful………BUT…. Slightly different that what is already in the machine. Of course I didn’t realize it until I took almost everything apart.

Main issue is that there are no holes to reattach the channel for the back glass. Then I noticed that the sides are different. Has anyone ever switched theirs out and if so did you run into these issues?

Chris

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#2810 1 year ago
Quoted from scootss:

Cool. Good luck.
Big fan of your work, btw. Thanks for all that you do for the hobby. Assuming you'll be at pinfest, would be good to stop by and say hi.

Thank you for the kind words, being able to use my skills to help out so many pinheads is what keeps me going!

As for the Hook issue, boy I feel dumb. I swapped wires from coil to coil, checked the grounds and everything pointed to something around the flipper itself. Diode was OK, but I replaced it anyway. I did not think this coil stop was that bad, but that is exactly what the problem was. I reinstalled the original flipper board and that works fine now.

20230306_175738 (resized).jpg20230306_175738 (resized).jpg
#2811 1 year ago
Quoted from JodyG:

Thank you for the kind words, being able to use my skills to help out so many pinheads is what keeps me going!
As for the Hook issue, boy I feel dumb. I swapped wires from coil to coil, checked the grounds and everything pointed to something around the flipper itself. Diode was OK, but I replaced it anyway. I did not think this coil stop was that bad, but that is exactly what the problem was. I reinstalled the original flipper board and that works fine now. [quoted image]

Yeah, I've seen this before on data east. That's why I suggested it and it's a fairly cheap fix, as most could use new ones anyways. Glad your back up to par, Jody

#2812 1 year ago

Before I push the buy button and waste $200 has anybody else ever tried using a T2 gun assembly for a lw3 or any data east game for that matter. My gun assembly is missing on my project pin. Just trying to make sure before I buy this https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14747

Vec-tor recommend it but hasn’t gotten back on here to verify.

#2813 1 year ago
Quoted from TBone8n69:

Before I push the buy button and waste $200 has anybody else ever tried using a T2 gun assembly for a lw3 or any data east game for that matter. My gun assembly is missing on my project pin. Just trying to make sure before I buy this https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-14747
Vec-tor recommend it but hasn’t gotten back on here to verify.

I don't know! but I would be skeptical that a B/W part would fit a DE playfield. Have you tried searching for pics of the underside of a T2 playfield to see if it's even close? Perhaps IPBD might have a pic..
I once used a Hook kicker from under the 1-2-3 skill shot and used it for a DE Star Trek for the auto plunger with some modification.

#2814 1 year ago

Thanks rysr will do some research…

#2815 1 year ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

Ok so before I totally destroy something I thought I’d post to the group. I have a Time Machine and the speaker grille is not ideal. So a NOS one came up and I bit. Received it today and it’s beautiful………BUT…. Slightly different that what is already in the machine. Of course I didn’t realize it until I took almost everything apart.
Main issue is that there are no holes to reattach the channel for the back glass. Then I noticed that the sides are different. Has anyone ever switched theirs out and if so did you run into these issues?
Chris
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Well this speaker panel is most definitely NOT for Time Machine. Not sure what it is for, but would need much work to be useable. Would need areas cut out for the wood blocks in the cabinet to hold it. Also would need the holes drilled for the channel for the backglass to be riveted onto it.

I have decided it is more than I want to take on with the risk of damaging it. Does anyone happen to know what it is for?

Would like to recoup at least some of my investment.

Chris

#2816 1 year ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

Ok so before I totally destroy something I thought I’d post to the group. I have a Time Machine and the speaker grille is not ideal. So a NOS one came up and I bit. Received it today and it’s beautiful………BUT…. Slightly different that what is already in the machine. Of course I didn’t realize it until I took almost everything apart.
Main issue is that there are no holes to reattach the channel for the back glass. Then I noticed that the sides are different. Has anyone ever switched theirs out and if so did you run into these issues?
Chris
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The new old stock part you have is for Data East's first game, Laser War.
The speaker grill assembly is carriage bolted into the back box.

#2817 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The new old stock part you have is for Data East's first game, Laser War.
The speaker grill assembly is carriage bolted into the back box.

Thank you.

Anyone need it? Will sell at a loss

Chris

#2818 1 year ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

Anyone need it? Will sell at a loss

Given you're close to Allentown, you may also want to post in the pinfest thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinfest-2023-buy-sell-trade-want-no-hotel-talk

#2819 1 year ago
Quoted from TBone8n69:

Thanks rysr will do some research…

Goto the LW3 owner's club/group and ask if any has a shooter laying around from a playfield strip or make a listing on IPDB in the parts wanted section..
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dataeast-leathal-weapon-3-lw3-club-join-if-you-have-one-or-haf-one

#2820 1 year ago

Thanks again rysr, will do. Even if someone has an old rusty one that I could clean up and make new again that would be great.

1 week later
#2821 1 year ago

So I'm having some issues with my Star Wars machine. Could missing a pin when installing an NVRAM chip cause the CPU damage? Only +5 volt and pia leds are lit. I also had some power supply board issues. I replaced the caps and some fuse holder clips. At the test points;
+5 is 4.98 volts, +12 is 12.04 volts and -12 is 14.80 volts. Do I have a problem with the -12 or is that voltage ok? It's also blowing the F5 fuse on the PPB board when I power the machine on. I knew I was going to need to replace the caps because I was having some sound issue at start up but it played fine after warming up. Could installing the NVRAM maybe incorrectly have caused these problems?

#2822 1 year ago

hi!

another ball through error on my JP. The last switch acts up (the one that registers the 6th ball). it´s like the ball don´t cause the small wheel at the end of the switch blade do drop significantly to register. I´ve tried to bend the blade but to no avail. It´s like the blade needs to be in the right shape to let the ball pass over the wheel and not get stopped by it, and of course it has also to be low enough to register. (kinda hard to explain in a second language).

Below are two pictures, one when the balls sits at its correct place and the other when the ball get stuck behind the small wheel at the end of the blade and the switch dont register.

Is there another (cheap) way to solve this issue other than keep bending the blade until it´s perfect or order the opto through thingie?

Anyone who has a picture of their perfect working switch?

(the switch is brand new).

/J

IMG_6174 (resized).jpegIMG_6174 (resized).jpegIMG_6175 (resized).jpegIMG_6175 (resized).jpeg
#2823 1 year ago

It looks like someone already replaced that switch. With the wrong one. I would replace it with correct one.

#2824 1 year ago

That is the wrong switch. The tension required to press is down is too high. You need to order a switch that requires VERY little tension for the trough's on a DE machine to work perfectly every time.

#2825 1 year ago
Quoted from Catch86:

It looks like someone already replaced that switch. With the wrong one. I would replace it with correct one.

The sad part is , is that E63 family of mini micro switches are discontinued.

#2827 1 year ago

@Catch86, @snyper2099, vec-tor and @scootss; thanks!! this was news to me that there was different "resistance" in the switches

well, the thing is that the old switch started to act up i a similar way, so I thought the switch was failing so I took a similar one and replaced it. Looked through the old pre-photos and the old one was a E63. So I´m gonna swap the switch back to it´s original configuration. Thanks again for the help!

IMG_5874 (resized).jpegIMG_5874 (resized).jpeg

2 weeks later
#2828 1 year ago

I'm trying to correct this operator hack and put a new connector on CN8 for my Laser War, and I'm a bit confused. From the one picture I could find, there appears to be ONE green and ONE yellow in that connector.

Somehow I have like...3 of each in this cobbled mess, and I'm not sure why. It doesn't look out of place in the loom so if wires were added they were bundled in as though they were original. Any suggestions?

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#2829 1 year ago

REMOVE black and white soldered wires on the PCB and discard them. You may need that 4 pin connector though...

You then need to add a 9 pin connector @ the connector that has the KEY in the middle (pin 5). Four wires are one side of the AC circuit and 4 wires are the other side. But, only two wires for each side could be all that is used.

The AC voltage enters the power board @ the four CN9 yellow wires. [Bottom of your third pic] One AC side is Yellow (2 wires) and one is Yellow White (2 wires). Those are the only two wires in the circuit that come from the lower cabinet transformer and go directly to the CN9 connector. Someone has added a green? wire. That green wire is not normal?

Before you do these things there is this fact to keep in mind: whomever did this PROBABLY did it because the large blue GI relay [directly above connector] failed. If that's the case and it failed open, you will not get any GI lights unless you bypass the GI relay, or replace it. They are DIFFICULT and a pain to replace and they are costly. It would probably make more sense to just buy a new power supply [when you replace the connectors] if that Relay is in fact bad.

#2830 1 year ago

de_psu_backbox_wiring.jpgde_psu_backbox_wiring.jpgde_psu_schematic.jpgde_psu_schematic.jpg

Quoted from snyper2099:

Someone has added a green? wire. That green wire is not normal?

The green wire is factory.

#2831 1 year ago

So it is... I just did not recall seeing a green wire on all the DE games that I've onwed. Had to replace that plug on ALL OF THEM. lol.

#2832 1 year ago

This was about the best picture I could dig up for reference purposes. Not sure why I've got so many yellow and green wires though for that CN8 connector.

Screenshot_20230411_094949_Photos (resized).jpgScreenshot_20230411_094949_Photos (resized).jpg20230411_122805 (resized).jpg20230411_122805 (resized).jpg

I pulled the playfield and put it on my rotisserie so I guess my next step is to trace all those wires down into the cab.

#2833 1 year ago

Alright. Tracing complete:

Yellows- cab connectors (x2) -- one 3-pin white/yellow and yellow for coin door, one 4-pin white/purple-pink-white/yellow-yellow (playfield side has a purple wire instead of pink, I'm assuming one is just faded and the other isn't?)

Greens- backbox connectors (x2) -- one to backbox connections, one to DIGITAL STEREO front panel

So this all makes sense, but I'm confused how the CN8 connector in my picture only had one green and one yellow wire inserted. Is there supposed to be a union somewhere else?

#2834 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Alright. Tracing complete:
Yellows- cab connectors (x2) -- one 3-pin white/yellow and yellow for coin door, one 4-pin white/purple-pink-white/yellow-yellow (playfield side has a purple wire instead of pink, I'm assuming one is just faded and the other isn't?)
Greens- backbox connectors (x2) -- one to backbox connections, one to DIGITAL STEREO front panel
So this all makes sense, but I'm confused how the CN8 connector in my picture only had one green and one yellow wire inserted. Is there supposed to be a union somewhere else?

Not sure why you are confused. The correct wires are in the picture previously posted in the thread above here:

Screen Shot 2023-04-12 at 11.32.21 AM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2023-04-12 at 11.32.21 AM (resized).png

One green and one yellow.

#2835 1 year ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Not sure why you are confused. The correct wires are in the picture previously posted in the thread above here:
[quoted image]

Because in one of my wire nuts I have two green leads and two yellow leads. That connector has...one of each. Just like I said and showed in the picture(s).

What's in my game does not appear to match what should be in the CN8 connector. That picture of the schematic lines up with the picture I found. Makes sense, no confusion there. My game is the confusing part.

#2836 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Because in one of my wire nuts I have two green leads and two yellow leads. That connector has...one of each. Just like I said and showed in the picture(s).
What's in my game does not appear to match what should be in the CN8 connector. That picture of the schematic lines up with the picture I found. Makes sense, no confusion there. My game is the confusing part.

@ the factory they did not ALWAYS exactly follow the schematics for the game. Sometimes they just used yellow for wh/yel and green for white green or green black. Sometimes they just used whatever wire they had that most closely matched the color they needed.

That's why on the schematic picture, ea. of the four fused AC GI circuits each have a solid color followed by that same color with a white stripe.
PLEASE NOTE THE PINS ON THAT PICTURE ARE NOT IN ORDER! So, visually it is NOT drawn correctly. 1-6-3-8-4-9-2-7

So, ALL SOLID colors are one AC side. ALL striped wires are the other...

All you need to do is make certain the two AC sides are separated and never touch each other and you should be fine. Data East is notorious for using "close to the correct color wires" for things like supply voltages and transformer wiring.

I have a Torpedo Alley with purple and pink GI wiring. Keep in mind that for AC circuits, they would typically always use a SOLID color for AC supply, and that same solid color with a white stripe for AC RETURN.

Also, if you pull the screws out of the power board and look at the back of that connector, it will make a lot more sense than just looking at the schematic.

#2837 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Because in one of my wire nuts I have two green leads and two yellow leads.

Remember, pinball manufactures use IDC connectors. The green and yellow wires
at one time were one continuous wires each.

#2838 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Remember, pinball manufactures use IDC connectors. The green and yellow wires
at one time were one continuous wires each.

Very true. Also worth mentioning that it's often difficult to jam both wires into a Trifurcon Crimp Terminal. I've have to even use solder to ensure the connection will not overhaet and never separate.

#2839 1 year ago

Two great responses, thanks.

I understand what they did with the power board. They separated the striped sides and the solid sides, just as you said. The 'flash' feature works like it's supposed to (as far as I can tell). So while it's "hacked"..it's still "right"....ish.

I'll get a connector molexed and ready to go for when my board is done and I should be good to go. I think my Rottendog MPU is having some issues (solenoids, NVRAM) so hopefully a bit of diagnostic and probing can get that shored up. The sound board will get a recap, but thankfully it works.

Thanks again for the help! I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go with this.

#2840 1 year ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Very true. Also worth mentioning that it's often difficult to get both wires into a Trifurcon Crimp Terminal.

Yeah, I've found it less than enjoyable with all the doubled-up wires for my Bally/Stern displays. I can usually do it, but I don't love it. Thankfully it's only two pins this time.

#2841 1 year ago

hi!

(posted this in the Jurassic park thread, will try here as well)

I have a major noise issues with my JP, major dmd bizz and a smaller speaker noise. I got one of them speaker hum reducers from Canada and there was a "static burst" burst when I turned on my JP. ChanceJ told me that I probably need to rebuild my power supply. So i tested my +12V and -12V to the sound board and got like 8 and 14 (cant remeber if the plus was 8 or vice versa). (the 5V was like 4,8). Can this be the culprit? Do I need a new power supply card or can I replace any components?

and finally, can this help solve my dmd buzz?

1 week later
#2842 11 months ago

Hey all. I have suddenly lost my sound in the speakers in the back box in my guns n roses. I have Pinsound + and color dmd are installed. The sound from the subwoofer works as it should. The speakers are from Flipper Fidelity and everything was installed at the same time about 4-5 years ago. Had another strange problem with color dmd it only showed what display version it was when you started the game. sometimes after a while it came on and worked as it should. that problem has stopped for now. Replaced all ribbon cables but no luck there.
How do I proceed with the troubleshooting and would it help if I had bought a new power board from Rotterndog?

#2843 11 months ago

Throwing a flyer out there - Anyone have any scans or better yet the ability to produce decals for the inserts on Time Machine? I just got a really nice one, except some significant mylar bubbling that caused what I can only describe as insert decals that rippled and folded over with it. I removed the mylar - zero paint loss - but the insert decals feel almost... rubberized? I'm looking for a full set and will replace what I need to - largely the larger insert decals - spot targets, multipliers, and modes seem to be holding up.

#2844 11 months ago
Quoted from Fred70:

Hey all. I have suddenly lost my sound in the speakers in the back box in my guns n roses. I have Pinsound + and color dmd are installed. The sound from the subwoofer works as it should. The speakers are from Flipper Fidelity and everything was installed at the same time about 4-5 years ago. Had another strange problem with color dmd it only showed what display version it was when you started the game. sometimes after a while it came on and worked as it should. that problem has stopped for now. Replaced all ribbon cables but no luck there.
How do I proceed with the troubleshooting and would it help if I had bought a new power board from Rotterndog?

Some of these issues can be power related, but you need to measure the voltages to know. Should be test points on the board for 5, 12, -12v can easily be measured on the power supply. The high voltages need to be measured on the DMD power connector.

Xpin > Rottendog board

1 month later
#2845 10 months ago

Have a friend saying his WWFRR will randomly will go into the Diagnostics menu when in the middle of the games.

I’m told he’s disconnected the test switches. I’m assuming the issue is on the board from the sounds of it.

Anyone have any input or experienced similar issues?

EDIT: so I went and took a look at it briefly. The service buttons are currently disconnected.
When you power it up, it shows the coin door open message I instantly. You’re able to start, and the coils all work.

I got it to go to the diagnostic screen twice. Once I started a game. Hit the flippers, and a second time I shook the game and it happened again. Couldnt reproduce it after that. Tried giggling the harness but it made no difference.

I’ve never ran into issues with the service switches or interlocks on my games. Can’t really find much about them in the manual.

Any insight would be appreciated!

#2846 10 months ago
Quoted from mad_carl:

Have a friend saying his WWFRR will randomly will go into the Diagnostics menu when in the middle of the games.
I’m told he’s disconnected the test switches. I’m assuming the issue is on the board from the sounds of it.
Anyone have any input or experienced similar issues?
EDIT: so I went and took a look at it briefly. The service buttons are currently disconnected.
When you power it up, it shows the coin door open message I instantly. You’re able to start, and the coils all work.
I got it to go to the diagnostic screen twice. Once I started a game. Hit the flippers, and a second time I shook the game and it happened again. Couldnt reproduce it after that. Tried giggling the harness but it made no difference.
I’ve never ran into issues with the service switches or interlocks on my games. Can’t really find much about them in the manual.
Any insight would be appreciated!

I've seperated the schematic part for the advance and up/down switches.
I think you may have a wonky 74ls02 chip at 1F or PIA at 11B.
Another possibility is one of the ceramic caps, C82.
Are you sure the cpu board is properly secured?
Nothing behind the board at the position of the connector (CN14-3 and C14-4)?

The only way you get into the diagnostics menu is via the advance button.
If you put the up/down switch in the up position you goto the settings menu.
If you put the up/down switch in the down position you goto the test menu.
Since you do not have the buttons connected, the game should goto into settings menu, correct?
If this is a yes, concentrate at the "advance" circuit.

Peter

Data_East_CPU_520-5003-03_schematic_part-3 (resized).jpgData_East_CPU_520-5003-03_schematic_part-3 (resized).jpg

#2847 10 months ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

I've seperated the schematic part for the advance and up/down switches.
I think you may have a wonky 74ls02 chip at 1F or PIA at 11B.
Another possibility is one of the ceramic caps, C82.
Are you sure the cpu board is properly secured?
Nothing behind the board at the position of the connector (CN14-3 and C14-4)?
The only way you get into the diagnostics menu is via the advance button.
If you put the up/down switch in the up position you goto the settings menu.
If you put the up/down switch in the down position you goto the test menu.
Since you do not have the buttons connected, the game should goto into settings menu, correct?
If this is a yes, concentrate at the "advance" circuit.
Peter
[quoted image]

I only looked at it briefly and thought about something being wedged behind the mpu. Didn’t get a chance to pull it off though.

There was quite a bit of debris in the bottom of the cab. I pulled out a coin mech, coil plunger and there was a handful of washers and screws that were likely sloshing around in there when he moved the game back and forth from his service guys place.

I brought the mpu from my game but didn’t bother trying it as mine was set to freeplay from being in my home, and with his service buttons being cut off I didn’t really have a method of switching it back to coin drop without them.

Here’s what I’m noticing:

Game displays the high voltage/ interlock message at power up. Doesn’t matter if the coin door is open or closed. You can start a game regardless and the coils work.

Not sure if that switch is technically NO or NC but it’s activating either way.

The initial issue he asked me about was it going to the Diagnostics screen mid game.

This is telling me that

a) the service button (black) is being activated some point

b) the green up/down switch thinks it’s in the down or depressed position and like you said above UP is Adjustments and DOWN Diagnostics

Hopefully I can get back there to look some more today and it’s just something stupid so I can avoid desoldering ICs.

I’m unclear how the interlock and service buttons are connected. I haven’t found anything on the wiring diagram. Just the service switches and mem. Protect button.

#2848 10 months ago

hmm.... batteries?

Data_East_coindoor (resized).jpgData_East_coindoor (resized).jpg
#2849 10 months ago

Nope, not the Open The Door message. His settings and scores are also in tact.

It’s the the message about the high voltage being disabled due to the interlock switch/coin door open. I forget the exact wording. I can take a look at my game here if it clears things up

2 weeks later
#2850 9 months ago

So got some strange stuff happening with lah. So all of a sudden the high power on my left flipper died. It would slowly go up and stop at the end. I did do a flipper rebuild and prev owner did not have eos hooked up. Now fresh ones are installed and properly gapped. Led light does not come on in the flipping board. All fuses are good. Noticed the windings on the coil were loose so replaced. Since replacing the coil I have nothing. Have 6v if I remember right when button is pressed. Pulled flipper board and used a pulser and logic probe. Signal is getting from one end to the other so assuming no dead shorts. Need you data east gurus for some advice on where to go. Mpu?

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